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2000 Civic LX hard to start, no spark at all.
My wifes Honda won't start when it's been sitting for 6 hours or so.
I hesitate to call it cold, as we live in South Florida and it does this when it's 95 degrees out, but it technically is a 'cold start' issue. So here is what I've done. Attache a FI pressure test guage. As soon as I turn the key the guage reads about 38psi, perfect per the manual. It maintains pressure when I crank, and I can hear the injectors clicking through a screwdriver. So the FI system seems good. So my next guess is that its ignition. So I hooked my inductive timing light to #2 plug and zip-tied the trigger so it would stay on. When I crank the engine the timing light does not blink at ALL. After I've cranked it 7 or 8 times (for about 4 seconds at a time) I will start to get a blink from the timing light right after I release the key! Once it starts doing this, it will start within the next couple of trys, but it still only sparks when the key is released from the start position to the run position. Once the engine starts I get a consistant and non-wobbly spark indicated by the light. I did the same test with the same results using an inline spark tester. The book (I think I have a chiltons) has some ignition tests for me to go through, which I will do tomorrow morning, but I'd really just like to get this darn thing fixed. Anyone have any idea what this problem is? Alan |
#2
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"Alan Russell" > wrote in message om... > My wifes Honda won't start when it's been sitting for 6 hours or so. > I hesitate to call it cold, as we live in South Florida and it does > this when it's 95 degrees out, but it technically is a 'cold start' > issue. > > So here is what I've done. Attache a FI pressure test guage. As soon > as I turn the key the guage reads about 38psi, perfect per the manual. > It maintains pressure when I crank, and I can hear the injectors > clicking through a screwdriver. > > So the FI system seems good. > > So my next guess is that its ignition. So I hooked my inductive > timing light to #2 plug and zip-tied the trigger so it would stay on. > When I crank the engine the timing light does not blink at ALL. After > I've cranked it 7 or 8 times (for about 4 seconds at a time) I will > start to get a blink from the timing light right after I release the > key! Once it starts doing this, it will start within the next couple > of trys, but it still only sparks when the key is released from the > start position to the run position. Once the engine starts I get a > consistant and non-wobbly spark indicated by the light. I did the > same test with the same results using an inline spark tester. > > The book (I think I have a chiltons) has some ignition tests for me to > go through, which I will do tomorrow morning, but I'd really just like > to get this darn thing fixed. Anyone have any idea what this problem > is? Alan, I've had this! See the PGM-FI article in Miscellanea section of my website. -- Graham W http://www.gcw.org.uk/ PGM-FI page updated, Graphics Tutorial WIMBORNE http://www.wessex-astro-society.freeserve.co.uk/ Wessex Dorset UK Astro Society's Web pages, Info, Meeting Dates, Sites & Maps Change 'news' to 'sewn' in my Reply address to avoid my spam filter. |
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#4
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Alan Russell > wrote:
> When I crank the engine the timing light does not blink at ALL. After > I've cranked it 7 or 8 times (for about 4 seconds at a time) I will > start to get a blink from the timing light right after I release the Sounds like a bad ignition switch. There's a "start" terminal on the switch, and IG1, and IG2. IG1 is supposed to be connected in the start or run position, and IG2 in the run position only. You aren't getting spark in the start position, but you are in the run position. Usually it is the other way, with no spark in "run", so it starts, and dies as soon as you let go of the key, but I suppose it could fail either way. There are also some relays involved in Honda Ignitions, so one of those might be bad. You can check the ignition switch wiring with a test light. --- Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley (Lake County) CA USA 38.8-122.5 |
#5
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In our shop we find out where the power goes in to the coil, if that is
good, we replace the distributor as a unit. It takes care of other potential problems in the future. All parts to control the fuel pulse and spark are in the distributor. Steve "Alan Russell" > wrote in message om... > My wifes Honda won't start when it's been sitting for 6 hours or so. > I hesitate to call it cold, as we live in South Florida and it does > this when it's 95 degrees out, but it technically is a 'cold start' > issue. > > So here is what I've done. Attache a FI pressure test guage. As soon > as I turn the key the guage reads about 38psi, perfect per the manual. > It maintains pressure when I crank, and I can hear the injectors > clicking through a screwdriver. > > So the FI system seems good. > > So my next guess is that its ignition. So I hooked my inductive > timing light to #2 plug and zip-tied the trigger so it would stay on. > When I crank the engine the timing light does not blink at ALL. After > I've cranked it 7 or 8 times (for about 4 seconds at a time) I will > start to get a blink from the timing light right after I release the > key! Once it starts doing this, it will start within the next couple > of trys, but it still only sparks when the key is released from the > start position to the run position. Once the engine starts I get a > consistant and non-wobbly spark indicated by the light. I did the > same test with the same results using an inline spark tester. > > The book (I think I have a chiltons) has some ignition tests for me to > go through, which I will do tomorrow morning, but I'd really just like > to get this darn thing fixed. Anyone have any idea what this problem > is? > > Alan |
#6
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So far I am convinced that Honda builds crap.
The car has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor and such about 5k ago. According to the ignition tests I've done, I do not seem to get a spark signal from the ECU. I guess it could be the crank angle sensor not telling the ECU to send a spark, or the ECU is crap. Maybe it is a rely, but my sevice book doesn't seem to delve into them very well. I hate this damn car. I married into it. Her next car will be a Mazda! |
#7
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#8
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k_teppo wrote:
> > I agree with the response dold gave about the ignition switch. were '00s in the recall as well? my '98 was. |
#9
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/sarcasm on
Hmmmmm...... Why not divorce it, and send it my way, partner? 'Course....I don't know how well it'll deal with these Ohio winters, being a South Florida car and all..... I'd be glad to add it to my collection of 5 "crap" Honda Accords totaling over 750,000 miles of confident ownership. I happen to love mine. Sounds like you've rebuilt the thing with new parts already. Keep trying......you could get lucky. /sarcasm off > So far I am convinced that Honda builds crap. > > The car has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor and such about 5k ago. > > According to the ignition tests I've done, I do not seem to get a > spark signal from the ECU. I guess it could be the crank angle sensor > not telling the ECU to send a spark, or the ECU is crap. Maybe it is > a rely, but my sevice book doesn't seem to delve into them very well. > > I hate this damn car. I married into it. Her next car will be a > Mazda! |
#10
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Well I did the testing on the ignition module that I found at:
http://techauto.tripod.com/s.htm I was not getting a signal on the wire from the ECU to the ignitor. I traced the wire to the ECU and verified continuity. So the problem at this point, near as I could tell, was ECU or Crank Angle Sensor. So I went to the junkyard and got a replacement distributor. It cost $160. It made everything work, I think. That leads me to belive it was the CAS, but I can not find any way to test it other than to ohm it out (it ohms fine). Anyway, that's the way it is. |
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