Stalling Sentra

Would a fuel pressure test not have found this problem?


"hls" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Peter Sheriff" > wrote in message
> ...
>> The ignition switch is fine. No loss of dash warning lights when the car
>> is idling. Tonight I finally got it to idle but it was very rough and
>> stalled as soon as I put it into reverse. I am a bit suspicious of the
>> MAF sensor. I checked the static voltages on the plug and they were
>> within the specified range. I will try to check the dynamic voltages
>> tomorrow.
>
> A few years ago, my now-deceased partner started having similar problems
> with his Ford custom van.
> The dealership took the van and replaced his fuel pumps and a number of
> other things. When they got
> through, he had spent several thousand on repairs and
> transportation...Then if failed again.. And they
> replaced some more parts, etc etc.
>
> Finally, somebody got the idea to blow out the fuel lines. And that did
> the trick. The lines were almost
> blocked with a rubbery looking substance.
>
> There IS a moral to this story, and I think everybody knows what it
> is...If not, just make one up.

> First thing I'd check would be the fuel filter...

I doubt it's the filter. A fuel volume issue would show up under heavy
load before it would at idle.

Sounds to me like a stuck open EGR valve or other vacuum leak.
Good luck,
Ben

I sort of fixed it. The MAF sensor was dirty. I checked the voltage readings
and they hardly changed over the rev range. I bought the cleaner and gave it
a good dousing and it improved tremendously. I still get a little hesitation
now and again so I will try another cleaning later.


"Mike" > wrote in message
...
> Peter Sheriff wrote:
>> I have a 2001 Nissan Sentra with a 1.8 l engine. A few weeks ago it
>> started to stall just after I started it. After about the third time
>> I could get it to run. Over the last few weeks it has been stalling
>> at idle and loosing power at high speed.
>> I checked the plugs and they are very clean amd correctly gapped. The
>> injectors are clicking OK. At idle it runs OK for a few seconds and
>> then the idle turns lumpy and ragged. It may stall or it may recover
>> for another few seconds and then repeat the cycle. This happens with
>> the engine cold or at normal running temperature. It almost sounds
>> like something is clicking on to put load on the engine and then
>> clicking off again allowing the engine to run smoothly. Is there
>> something that cycles on and off to load down the engine. The AC is
>> not turned on. When it is running, I checked the exhaust and I can feel a
>> mis-fire
>> now and again. The exhaust gives a "chug". I also notice that the
>> exhaust tip is very sooty.
>> I was getting an OBD-II code indicating weak mixture for a while but
>> I had a hole in the exhaust which I subsequently fixed. The code no
>> longer appears but I still have the stalling problem. No codes are
>> being set now but the car is very unreliable.
>> Anyone have any suggestions what to look for? Thanks.
>
> Have you checked the fuel pressure yet ?
>
>
>

On 8/17/2011 9:32 AM, Peter Sheriff wrote:
> I did notice one thing. The car idles smoothly for a few seconds and
> then stalls or runs rough for seconds and then stalls. I noticed that
> the EGR valve pulls open at the same time that the rough idle starts. I
> disconnected and plugged the EGR vacuum hose and there was no difference
> so it is not the EGR itself that is causing the problem. It looks though
> as if it is some other vacuum operated system that is causing the
> problem when the vacuum builds up in the intake.
> I did have a problem code some time ago that was suggesting an air leak
> in the EVAP system. I checked out the hoses and replaced the gas cap as
> the book suggested to no avail. I just lived with the check engine light
> for a while. Since I have been having this idle and surging problem
> though, that code has not appeared again. I did nothing to fix it. I did
> try clamping off the EVAP hoses and the car still stalled so I doubt
> that this is the cause.
>
>
> "Peter Sheriff" > wrote in message
> ...
>> The ignition switch is fine. No loss of dash warning lights when the
>> car is idling. Tonight I finally got it to idle but it was very rough
>> and stalled as soon as I put it into reverse. I am a bit suspicious of
>> the MAF sensor. I checked the static voltages on the plug and they
>> were within the specified range. I will try to check the dynamic
>> voltages tomorrow.
>>
>> "jim beam" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> On 08/16/2011 08:55 AM, Peter Sheriff wrote:
>>>> The fuel filter on this car is in the gas tank. Not very easy to get to
>>>> or to check. There is no external filter.
>>>> The surprising thing to me is that there are no codes set at all. I
>>>> would have expected some kind of code since the car is stalling very
>>>> badly now. I am at a loss with this one.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Paul in Houston TX" > wrote in message
>>>> ...
>>>>> Hachiroku wrote:
>>>>>> On Mon, 15 Aug 2011 20:39:17 -0400, Peter Sheriff wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I have a 2001 Nissan Sentra with a 1.8 l engine. A few weeks ago it
>>>>>>> started to stall just after I started it. After about the third time
>>>>>>> I could get it to run. Over the last few weeks it has been stalling
>>>>>>> at idle and loosing power at high speed.
>>>>>>> I checked the plugs and they are very clean amd correctly gapped.
>>>>>>> The injectors are clicking OK. At idle it runs OK for a few seconds
>>>>>>> and then the idle turns lumpy and ragged. It may stall or it may
>>>>>>> recover for another few seconds and then repeat the cycle. This
>>>>>>> happens with the engine cold or at normal running temperature. It
>>>>>>> almost sounds like something is clicking on to put load on the
>>>>>>> engine and then clicking off again allowing the engine to run
>>>>>>> smoothly. Is there something that cycles on and off to load down the
>>>>>>> engine. The AC is not turned on.
>>>>>>> When it is running, I checked the exhaust and I can feel a mis-fire
>>>>>>> now and again. The exhaust gives a "chug". I also notice that the
>>>>>>> exhaust tip is very sooty.
>>>>>>> I was getting an OBD-II code indicating weak mixture for a while but
>>>>>>> I had a hole in the exhaust which I subsequently fixed. The code no
>>>>>>> longer appears but I still have the stalling problem. No codes are
>>>>>>> being set now but the car is very unreliable.
>>>>>>> Anyone have any suggestions what to look for? Thanks.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> First thing I'd check would be the fuel filter...
>>>>>
>>>>> Yup!
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> check the ignition switch. if you have a loaded key ring, it can
>>> prevent the contacts returning to the full "run" position, and over
>>> time, the contacts burn out. very common problem on hondas and when
>>> it happens, you get stalling and no codes. something to check for...
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> nomina rutrum rutrum
>>>
>>
>>
>
Sentras are notorious for bad cop coils.

"Peter Sheriff" > wrote in message
...
> Would a fuel pressure test not have found this problem?

Should have, fuel pressure and deliverability.
Some mechanics are quick to "flat rate", however, and will replace a lot of
parts to avoid diagnosis.

This van had a main and an auxiliary fuel tank. The source of the crap was
never
really identified.