!999 Chrysler LHS codes

This afternoon I was thrilled (not) to see my Check Engine light come
on, and then find that the transmission was not shifting correctly: it
will not shift up but the low gears and reverse are OK. The car has
about 100K on it, and was running just fine until the CE light came on.
Took the car to Autozone so they could scan it and they found the
following codes: P0700, P0731, P0733, and PO734. The tech was not sure
what would cause these codes, but said they are transmission related.
Anyone have an idea what would cause these codes? (Hopefully a sensor?)
Any assistance appreciated.
Scott

S. Williams wrote:
> This afternoon I was thrilled (not) to see my Check Engine light come
> on, and then find that the transmission was not shifting correctly: it
> will not shift up but the low gears and reverse are OK. The car has
> about 100K on it, and was running just fine until the CE light came on.
> Took the car to Autozone so they could scan it and they found the
> following codes: P0700, P0731, P0733, and PO734. The tech was not sure
> what would cause these codes, but said they are transmission related.
> Anyone have an idea what would cause these codes? (Hopefully a sensor?)
> Any assistance appreciated.
> Scott

Very likely either the input or output speed sensor. If speedometer
shuts down when the problem occurs, the problem is the output sensor. If
speedometer still works, then it is the input sensor. There can be
other causes, but this is usually the problem. Part is around $20.
Takes $15 minutes for the first-time DIY'er to replace - must get
underneath car to do it.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

Bill Putney wrote:
> S. Williams wrote:
>> This afternoon I was thrilled (not) to see my Check Engine light come
>> on, and then find that the transmission was not shifting correctly: it
>> will not shift up but the low gears and reverse are OK. The car has
>> about 100K on it, and was running just fine until the CE light came
>> on. Took the car to Autozone so they could scan it and they found the
>> following codes: P0700, P0731, P0733, and PO734. The tech was not sure
>> what would cause these codes, but said they are transmission related.
>> Anyone have an idea what would cause these codes? (Hopefully a
>> sensor?) Any assistance appreciated.
>> Scott
>
> Very likely either the input or output speed sensor. If speedometer
> shuts down when the problem occurs, the problem is the output sensor. If
> speedometer still works, then it is the input sensor. There can be
> other causes, but this is usually the problem. Part is around $20.
> Takes $15 minutes for the first-time DIY'er to replace - must get
> underneath car to do it.
>
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> address with the letter 'x')

Bill,
Thanks very much for your response and info. I sure hope the input
sensor is the culprit (the speedo is OK); I'll find out Friday.
Thanks again,
Scott

S. Williams wrote:
> Bill Putney wrote:
>
>> S. Williams wrote:
>>
>>> This afternoon I was thrilled (not) to see my Check Engine light come
>>> on, and then find that the transmission was not shifting correctly:
>>> it will not shift up but the low gears and reverse are OK. The car
>>> has about 100K on it, and was running just fine until the CE light
>>> came on. Took the car to Autozone so they could scan it and they
>>> found the following codes: P0700, P0731, P0733, and PO734. The tech
>>> was not sure what would cause these codes, but said they are
>>> transmission related. Anyone have an idea what would cause these
>>> codes? (Hopefully a sensor?) Any assistance appreciated.
>>> Scott
>>
>>
>> Very likely either the input or output speed sensor. If speedometer
>> shuts down when the problem occurs, the problem is the output sensor.
>> If speedometer still works, then it is the input sensor. There can be
>> other causes, but this is usually the problem. Part is around $20.
>> Takes $15 minutes for the first-time DIY'er to replace - must get
>> underneath car to do it.
>>
>> Bill Putney
>> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
>> address with the letter 'x')
>
>
> Bill,
> Thanks very much for your response and info. I sure hope the input
> sensor is the culprit (the speedo is OK); I'll find out Friday.
> Thanks again,
> Scott

You're welcome. With the 85 to 90% chance it is the input sensor (vs.
internal tranny problems - like solenoid pack), you're better off trying
that because the diagnostics will cost you way more than that if you
take it to the dealer (apologies to Glenn) only to have them tell you
it's the sensor and charge you big bucks to replace it on top of that.
(IOW - if it's not the sensor, you're only out $20 and 15 minutes of
your time and are no worse off than you are now.)

BTW - the last sentence of my previous post should have said "Takes 15
minutes...". Don't know where that dollar sign came from!

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

On May 3, 4:09 pm, "S. Williams" > wrote:
> This afternoon I was thrilled (not) to see my Check Engine light come
> on, and then find that the transmission was not shifting correctly: it
> will not shift up but the low gears and reverse are OK. The car has
> about 100K on it, and was running just fine until the CE light came on.
> Took the car to Autozone so they could scan it and they found the
> following codes: P0700, P0731, P0733, and PO734. The tech was not sure
> what would cause these codes, but said they are transmission related.
> Anyone have an idea what would cause these codes? (Hopefully a sensor?)
> Any assistance appreciated.
> Scott

According to the shop manual the codes mean:

P0700 -- EATX Controller DTC Present -- This SBEC II or JTEC DTC
indicates that the EATX or Aisin controller has an active fault and
has illuminated the MIL via a CCD (EATX) or SCI (Aisin) message. The
specific fault must be qcquired from the EATX via CCD or from the
Aisin via ISO-9141

P0731,etc could not find in the manual. According to an ALLPAR post
(http://www.allpar.com/fix/computer-codes.html) it appears that

P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio
P0731 Incorrect 1st Gear Ratio
P0732 Incorrect 2nd Gear Ratio
P0733 Incorrect 3rd Gear Ratio
P0734 Incorrect 4th Gear Ratio


Hence, it looks really likely (as Bill suggested) that you have a bad
input or output speed sensor.

Thanks,

Alex

Bill Putney wrote:

> S. Williams wrote:
> > Bill Putney wrote:
> >
> >> S. Williams wrote:
> >>
> >>> This afternoon I was thrilled (not) to see my Check Engine light come
> >>> on, and then find that the transmission was not shifting correctly:
> >>> it will not shift up but the low gears and reverse are OK. The car
> >>> has about 100K on it, and was running just fine until the CE light
> >>> came on. Took the car to Autozone so they could scan it and they
> >>> found the following codes: P0700, P0731, P0733, and PO734. The tech
> >>> was not sure what would cause these codes, but said they are
> >>> transmission related. Anyone have an idea what would cause these
> >>> codes? (Hopefully a sensor?) Any assistance appreciated.
> >>> Scott
> >>
> >>
> >> Very likely either the input or output speed sensor. If speedometer
> >> shuts down when the problem occurs, the problem is the output sensor.
> >> If speedometer still works, then it is the input sensor. There can be
> >> other causes, but this is usually the problem. Part is around $20.
> >> Takes $15 minutes for the first-time DIY'er to replace - must get
> >> underneath car to do it.
> >>
> >> Bill Putney
> >> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> >> address with the letter 'x')
> >
> >
> > Bill,
> > Thanks very much for your response and info. I sure hope the input
> > sensor is the culprit (the speedo is OK); I'll find out Friday.
> > Thanks again,
> > Scott
>
> You're welcome. With the 85 to 90% chance it is the input sensor (vs.
> internal tranny problems - like solenoid pack), you're better off trying
> that because the diagnostics will cost you way more than that if you
> take it to the dealer (apologies to Glenn) only to have them tell you
> it's the sensor and charge you big bucks to replace it on top of that.
> (IOW - if it's not the sensor, you're only out $20 and 15 minutes of
> your time and are no worse off than you are now.)
>
> BTW - the last sentence of my previous post should have said "Takes 15
> minutes...". Don't know where that dollar sign came from!

I'll admit it took me more than 15 minutes to change the sensor. My output
sensor went sour in June and I replaced it without too much fuss. I figured
that I might as well change the input sensor too while I was at it, but I
found that one much more challenging. The sensor is up high enough and there
are all sorts of obstructions that make it hard to get your hands and tools
on it while leaving a clear shot for the socket ratchet. This was the first
transmission speed sensor failure in over eight years of owning the car,
hopefully the new sensors (not Mopar apparently) will last as long.

Greg Houston wrote:


> ...I figured
> that I might as well change the input sensor too while I was at it, but I
> found that one much more challenging. The sensor is up high enough and there
> are all sorts of obstructions that make it hard to get your hands and tools
> on it while leaving a clear shot for the socket ratchet.

....which is specifically why I mentioned that you might want to use an
open end wrench in your thread back in June:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.a...055956f8670df6



Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

Bill Putney wrote:

> Greg Houston wrote:
>
> > ...I figured
> > that I might as well change the input sensor too while I was at it, but I
> > found that one much more challenging. The sensor is up high enough and there
> > are all sorts of obstructions that make it hard to get your hands and tools
> > on it while leaving a clear shot for the socket ratchet.
>
> ...which is specifically why I mentioned that you might want to use an
> open end wrench in your thread back in June:
> http://groups.google.com/group/rec.a...055956f8670df6

Yes, you did and I'm sure I did try that, although I don't remember why I had trouble with that. It worked out in the end, but it took a while for
the input sensor (the one on the left). It's probably just me, I was trying to be as careful with the part as possible, especially since it's only
plastic.