'02 silverado rear brakes

On Sep 24, 3:24*pm, "E. Meyer" > wrote:

> I know quite a few who do.

That doesn't mean it's right.

willy wrote:
> On Sep 24, 3:24 pm, "E. Meyer" > wrote:
>
>> I know quite a few who do.
>
> That doesn't mean it's right.
>

Even though it is the correct way?

The idea behind it is simple. The dirt and crud in the system flows down
stream. Water, rust and rubber all settle out of the fluid. When you
push the pistons in all of that crap can be pushed up through the lines
and back into the ABS unit. If you look at 99% of the service manuals
they will tell you to open a bleeder and push the fluid out. Then you
just top up the fluid with new. Easy enough to do and unless you release
the pressure on the clamp without tightening the bleeder first the
chances of getting air into the system are really slim.

--
Steve W.

On Sep 25, 1:45*am, "Steve W." > wrote:

> The idea behind it is simple. The dirt and crud in the system flows down
> stream. Water, rust and rubber all settle out of the fluid. When you
> push the pistons in all of that crap can be pushed up through the lines
> and back into the ABS unit. If you look at 99% of the service manuals
> they will tell you to open a bleeder and push the fluid out. Then you
> just top up the fluid with new. Easy enough to do and unless you release
> the pressure on the clamp without tightening the bleeder first the
> chances of getting air into the system are really slim.
>
> --
> Steve W.

Gee, thanx for that wonderful explanation!

Shouldn't matter cause the brake fluid should be clean, cause "you"
change it every 12 to 24 months, 25K, 30K or 36K since "you" follow
the "service manuals" !!!

On 9/24/10 9:44 PM, in article
, "willy"
> wrote:

> On Sep 24, 3:24*pm, "E. Meyer" > wrote:
>
>> I know quite a few who do.
>
> That doesn't mean it's right.
>
I didn't say it was.

willy wrote:
> On Sep 25, 1:45 am, "Steve W." > wrote:
>
>> The idea behind it is simple. The dirt and crud in the system flows down
>> stream. Water, rust and rubber all settle out of the fluid. When you
>> push the pistons in all of that crap can be pushed up through the lines
>> and back into the ABS unit. If you look at 99% of the service manuals
>> they will tell you to open a bleeder and push the fluid out. Then you
>> just top up the fluid with new. Easy enough to do and unless you release
>> the pressure on the clamp without tightening the bleeder first the
>> chances of getting air into the system are really slim.
>>
>> --
>> Steve W.
>
> Gee, thanx for that wonderful explanation!
>
> Shouldn't matter cause the brake fluid should be clean, cause "you"
> change it every 12 to 24 months, 25K, 30K or 36K since "you" follow
> the "service manuals" !!!
>

You might want to look in those manuals. Most of them don't even spec
brake fluid changes any longer.
Do what you want but I would rather not screw up the ABS unit on
customer vehicles by not following a very simple procedure.

--
Steve W.

One more question, some pad brands contain new stainless steel sliders
and other have none. Is it necessary to use the sliders or can the
pads be held in place with just the caliper bracket?

mark wrote:
> One more question, some pad brands contain new stainless steel sliders
> and other have none. Is it necessary to use the sliders or can the
> pads be held in place with just the caliper bracket?

Those are actually anti-rattle clips. They keep the pads from dancing
around when you're not using the brakes. Without them you get clunks and
rattles when you hit bumps.

--
Steve W.
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