'02 silverado rear brakes

When pressing the brake pedal can you turn the wheel by hand?


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Message origin: TRAVEL.com

"Steve W." > wrote in message
...
>
> It won't hold either. The back brakes are set up so they provide less
> than 20 percent of braking force. They won't hold back the engine. The
> P-Brake on these trucks is even worse. Plus on an 02 there may be a load
> sensing prop valve as well. On those a free hanging axle will almost
> disable the rear brakes entirely.

> Steve W.

Sometimes here the parking brake check is a part of the manditory safety
inspection.
(Oddly, not every area has the same focus on what is inspected and how
well).
It is my view that if the parking brake wont hold, the rear brakes probably
wont
contribute the little bit that they do under best conditions.

When I read the OPs later post about drilling and tapping for Zerks, I just
hope
he lives far away from where I normally drive.

On 9/24/10 7:58 AM, in article
, "hls" > wrote:

>
> "Steve W." > wrote in message
> ...
>>
>> It won't hold either. The back brakes are set up so they provide less
>> than 20 percent of braking force. They won't hold back the engine. The
>> P-Brake on these trucks is even worse. Plus on an 02 there may be a load
>> sensing prop valve as well. On those a free hanging axle will almost
>> disable the rear brakes entirely.
>
>> Steve W.
>
> Sometimes here the parking brake check is a part of the manditory safety
> inspection.
> (Oddly, not every area has the same focus on what is inspected and how
> well).
> It is my view that if the parking brake wont hold, the rear brakes probably
> wont
> contribute the little bit that they do under best conditions.
>
> When I read the OPs later post about drilling and tapping for Zerks, I just
> hope
> he lives far away from where I normally drive.
>

Yeah, I saw that too. Hopefully, he hasn't "fixed" the fronts as well.

mark wrote:
> On Sep 23, 10:10 pm, "Steve W." > wrote:
>> hls wrote:
>>
>>> "mark" > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>> I just changed the rear pads and rotors and everything is lubed and
>>>> working properly but I noticed when on the hoist and I hold the brake
>>>> pedal all the way down and put it in drive and give it gas the rear
>>>> wheels will turn, if I let off the gas they stop. Is this normal?
>>> Check your parking brakes and be sure they will hold. If so, it is
>>> probably
>>> okay.
>> It won't hold either. The back brakes are set up so they provide less
>> than 20 percent of braking force. They won't hold back the engine. The
>> P-Brake on these trucks is even worse. Plus on an 02 there may be a load
>> sensing prop valve as well. On those a free hanging axle will almost
>> disable the rear brakes entirely.
>>
>> --
>> Steve W.
>
> One more thing, when doing the brakes over one of the sliders was
> rusted solid so after getting everything apart I drilled and tapped
> the dead end of the slider's passage and put zerk fittings in so I
> can now grease them, I am aware not to put too much in as it will
> probably end up on the disk and pads but the rubber boot on the slider
> hold it in nicely.

The problem with greasing them isn't that it will get on the pads, it is
that the grease will act like hydraulic fluid and hold the caliper in
place just like rust did.

SOP for me on those pins is to pull them out. Then use a dull reamer
that I made which cleans all the crud/rust out of the caliper mount.
Then I clean the pin. If it is pitted or rusted much it gets replaced.
When the new one goes in I apply a coat of silicone based grease to the
pin. Make sure it gets in the hole as well. Then bottom out the pin.
This makes sure the grease doesn't lock up the pin. I inspect the boot
real well and clean them out. Then a small dab of silicone RTV on the
lips so they seal better. OR the better solution is to do this once,
then check them for operation every tire rotation.


--
Steve W.

On Sep 24, 11:48*am, "Steve W." > wrote:
> mark wrote:
> > On Sep 23, 10:10 pm, "Steve W." > wrote:
> >> hls wrote:
>
> >>> "mark" > wrote in message
> ....
> >>>> I just changed the rear pads and rotors and everything is lubed and
> >>>> working properly but I noticed when on the hoist and I hold the brake
> >>>> pedal all the way down and put it in drive and give it gas the rear
> >>>> wheels will turn, if I let off the gas they stop. Is this normal?
> >>> Check your parking brakes and be sure they will hold. * If so, it is
> >>> probably
> >>> okay.
> >> It won't hold either. The back brakes are set up so they provide less
> >> than 20 percent of braking force. They won't hold back the engine. The
> >> P-Brake on these trucks is even worse. Plus on an 02 there may be a load
> >> sensing prop valve as well. On those a free hanging axle will almost
> >> disable the rear brakes entirely.
>
> >> --
> >> Steve W.
>
> > One more thing, when doing the brakes over one of the sliders was
> > rusted solid so after getting everything apart I drilled and tapped
> > the dead end of the slider's passage and put zerk fittings in so *I
> > can now grease them, *I am aware not to put too much in as it will
> > probably end up on the disk and pads but the rubber boot on the slider
> > hold it in nicely.
>
> The problem with greasing them isn't that it will get on the pads, it is
> that the grease will act like hydraulic fluid and hold the caliper in
> place just like rust did.
>
> SOP for me on those pins is to pull them out. Then use a dull reamer
> that I made which cleans all the crud/rust out of the caliper mount.
> Then I clean the pin. If it is pitted or rusted much it gets replaced.
> When the new one goes in I apply a coat of silicone based grease to the
> pin. Make sure it gets in the hole as well. Then bottom out the pin.
> This makes sure the grease doesn't lock up the pin. I inspect the boot
> real well and clean them out. Then a small dab of silicone RTV on the
> lips so they seal better. OR the better solution is to do this once,
> then check them for operation every tire rotation.
>
> --
> Steve W.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

On Sep 24, 2:46*pm, mark > wrote:
> On Sep 24, 11:48*am, "Steve W." > wrote:
>
>
>
> > mark wrote:
> > > On Sep 23, 10:10 pm, "Steve W." > wrote:
> > >> hls wrote:
>
> > >>> "mark" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > >>>> I just changed the rear pads and rotors and everything is lubed and
> > >>>> working properly but I noticed when on the hoist and I hold the brake
> > >>>> pedal all the way down and put it in drive and give it gas the rear
> > >>>> wheels will turn, if I let off the gas they stop. Is this normal?
> > >>> Check your parking brakes and be sure they will hold. * If so, it is
> > >>> probably
> > >>> okay.
> > >> It won't hold either. The back brakes are set up so they provide less
> > >> than 20 percent of braking force. They won't hold back the engine. The
> > >> P-Brake on these trucks is even worse. Plus on an 02 there may be a load
> > >> sensing prop valve as well. On those a free hanging axle will almost
> > >> disable the rear brakes entirely.
>
> > >> --
> > >> Steve W.
>
> > > One more thing, when doing the brakes over one of the sliders was
> > > rusted solid so after getting everything apart I drilled and tapped
> > > the dead end of the slider's passage and put zerk fittings in so *I
> > > can now grease them, *I am aware not to put too much in as it will
> > > probably end up on the disk and pads but the rubber boot on the slider
> > > hold it in nicely.
>
> > The problem with greasing them isn't that it will get on the pads, it is
> > that the grease will act like hydraulic fluid and hold the caliper in
> > place just like rust did.
>
> > SOP for me on those pins is to pull them out. Then use a dull reamer
> > that I made which cleans all the crud/rust out of the caliper mount.
> > Then I clean the pin. If it is pitted or rusted much it gets replaced.
> > When the new one goes in I apply a coat of silicone based grease to the
> > pin. Make sure it gets in the hole as well. Then bottom out the pin.
> > This makes sure the grease doesn't lock up the pin. I inspect the boot
> > real well and clean them out. Then a small dab of silicone RTV on the
> > lips so they seal better. OR the better solution is to do this once,
> > then check them for operation every tire rotation.
>
> > --
> > Steve W.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

The pins are a very loose fit in the holes, there is no way the grease
is going to push on the pin, I put one stroke of the grease gun in and
the boot started to inflate then I stopped. Why would anyone loosen
the bleeder to push the piston back, a "C" clamp easily does it.

On Sep 24, 8:00*am, "E. Meyer" > wrote:

>
> If all he did was swap pads, he shouldn't. *If he opened the bleeders to
> compress the pistons, then there is a good chance he would.

You don't open the bleeders to compress the pistons.

On 9/24/10 12:50 PM, in article
, "mark"
> wrote:

> On Sep 24, 2:46*pm, mark > wrote:
>> On Sep 24, 11:48*am, "Steve W." > wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> mark wrote:
>>>> On Sep 23, 10:10 pm, "Steve W." > wrote:
>>>>> hls wrote:
>>
>>>>>> "mark" > wrote in message
>>>>>> ...
>>>>>>> I just changed the rear pads and rotors and everything is lubed and
>>>>>>> working properly but I noticed when on the hoist and I hold the brake
>>>>>>> pedal all the way down and put it in drive and give it gas the rear
>>>>>>> wheels will turn, if I let off the gas they stop. Is this normal?
>>>>>> Check your parking brakes and be sure they will hold. * If so, it is
>>>>>> probably
>>>>>> okay.
>>>>> It won't hold either. The back brakes are set up so they provide less
>>>>> than 20 percent of braking force. They won't hold back the engine. The
>>>>> P-Brake on these trucks is even worse. Plus on an 02 there may be a load
>>>>> sensing prop valve as well. On those a free hanging axle will almost
>>>>> disable the rear brakes entirely.
>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> Steve W.
>>
>>>> One more thing, when doing the brakes over one of the sliders was
>>>> rusted solid so after getting everything apart I drilled and tapped
>>>> the dead end of the slider's passage and put zerk fittings in so *I
>>>> can now grease them, *I am aware not to put too much in as it will
>>>> probably end up on the disk and pads but the rubber boot on the slider
>>>> hold it in nicely.
>>
>>> The problem with greasing them isn't that it will get on the pads, it is
>>> that the grease will act like hydraulic fluid and hold the caliper in
>>> place just like rust did.
>>
>>> SOP for me on those pins is to pull them out. Then use a dull reamer
>>> that I made which cleans all the crud/rust out of the caliper mount.
>>> Then I clean the pin. If it is pitted or rusted much it gets replaced.
>>> When the new one goes in I apply a coat of silicone based grease to the
>>> pin. Make sure it gets in the hole as well. Then bottom out the pin.
>>> This makes sure the grease doesn't lock up the pin. I inspect the boot
>>> real well and clean them out. Then a small dab of silicone RTV on the
>>> lips so they seal better. OR the better solution is to do this once,
>>> then check them for operation every tire rotation.
>>
>>> --
>>> Steve W.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> The pins are a very loose fit in the holes, there is no way the grease
> is going to push on the pin, I put one stroke of the grease gun in and
> the boot started to inflate then I stopped. Why would anyone loosen
> the bleeder to push the piston back, a "C" clamp easily does it.

There are more than a few who don't like the idea of pushing the crud in the
calipers back up into the MC.

On 9/24/10 1:57 PM, in article
, "willy"
> wrote:

> On Sep 24, 8:00*am, "E. Meyer" > wrote:
>
>>
>> If all he did was swap pads, he shouldn't. *If he opened the bleeders to
>> compress the pistons, then there is a good chance he would.
>
> You don't open the bleeders to compress the pistons.
>

I know quite a few who do.

mark > wrote in
:


> The pins are a very loose fit in the holes, there is no way the grease
> is going to push on the pin, I put one stroke of the grease gun in and
> the boot started to inflate then I stopped.


Is your "grease" compatible with the rubber boots? If not, it will quickly
emulsify the rubber and cause even worse problems.

Have you investigated just /why/ water is getting inside the boots and
making the pins rust? There may be more happening here than at first
appears.



> Why would anyone loosen
> the bleeder to push the piston back, a "C" clamp easily does it.


Sure does. But how old is your brake fluid?



--
Tegger