Car that sat for a while. What to look for?

Hi,

I'm looking at purchasing a car that sat idle for several years.

The car starts OK, seems to run fine, and has no driveability issues. No
fluid leaks.

I'm wondering what else to look for prior to the possible purchase, and what
needs to be done after buying the car (fluid changes, etc..) to ensure that
it will keep running OK.

Thanks,

C. Squire

you could mention what kind it is.
I'd certainly drive it on the highway, warm it up good, check for
vibrations, squeaks out of the wheels, leaky hoses, overheating, idle
problems when warm, any liquids leaking, smoke, or the simple rule, Brakes
Exhaust Lights Tires Steering

As per the previous poster,

leaky seals, valve cover gaskets, cooling system problems, tires and brakes,
belts, hoses, intermittent electrical connections, etc

If you buy it, you should drain the gas tank, add moisture additive, change
the fuel filter,
air filter, oil and filter, etc. Service the transmission.

You might get a good deal and you might get a POS.

ch_squire wrote:
>
>I'm looking at purchasing a car that sat idle for several years.
>
>The car starts OK, seems to run fine, and has no driveability issues. No
>fluid leaks.
>
>I'm wondering what else to look for prior to the possible purchase, and what
>needs to be done after buying the car (fluid changes, etc..) to ensure that
>it will keep running OK.

It's not unusual for hypoid differentials to develop severe pitting
corresponding to the oil surface if nothing's been moved for a long
period. If replacements are a rare or expensive item it could be
worthwhile to remove the banjo cover and eyeball the gear teeth before
you buy it.

For similar reasons I'd never buy a car that had been standing with
hypoid oil in its gearbox (most aren't meant to have it, but it's
often used as a replacement oil). If it's a manual remove the level
plug and take a sniff.

I'd have also removed the fan belt and turned the water pump by
hand... to reduce the possibility of destroying the seal on startup.

Give it a thorough service and replace all of it's fluids, including
coolant and brake fluid, after it's been run to full operating
temperature.

--
John H

John, I don't think he needs to turn it over by hand since he's already
been driving it.

Cars that have been sitting a lot sometimes develop odd problems later
on. I would work on getting something off the price for the unforseen
repair that will probably happen.

Al Bundy wrote:

>John, I don't think he needs to turn it over by hand since he's already
>been driving it.

Yes indeed, he made that perfectly clear. I was merely pointing out
how a problem which is likely to arise might have been avoided.

>
>Cars that have been sitting a lot sometimes develop odd problems later
>on. I would work on getting something off the price for the unforseen
>repair that will probably happen.

I've started a couple that had been standing for 40 years or so
without being run, with very few ensuing problems you wouldn't
reasonably expect -- perished rubber, oil seals gone hard, etc. Both
were collectables that commanded a premium price, but it's still nice
to know exactly what you're getting for the money.

I particularly mentioned the hypoid oil problem because many people
are apparently unaware of it. I've seen it seriously affect both cars
and components that have only been standing for a relatively short
time (a year or two).

--
John H

I can just bet the greased places are all dried up. etc., maybe bushings dry
rotted, hoses brittle...I;d look 'er over good.....



"John_H" > wrote in message
...
> Al Bundy wrote:
>
> >John, I don't think he needs to turn it over by hand since he's already
> >been driving it.
>
> Yes indeed, he made that perfectly clear. I was merely pointing out
> how a problem which is likely to arise might have been avoided.
>
> >
> >Cars that have been sitting a lot sometimes develop odd problems later
> >on. I would work on getting something off the price for the unforseen
> >repair that will probably happen.
>
> I've started a couple that had been standing for 40 years or so
> without being run, with very few ensuing problems you wouldn't
> reasonably expect -- perished rubber, oil seals gone hard, etc. Both
> were collectables that commanded a premium price, but it's still nice
> to know exactly what you're getting for the money.
>
> I particularly mentioned the hypoid oil problem because many people
> are apparently unaware of it. I've seen it seriously affect both cars
> and components that have only been standing for a relatively short
> time (a year or two).
>
> --
> John H

Ted Mittelstaedt wrote:
>
>"John_H" > wrote in message
.. .
>>
>> I particularly mentioned the hypoid oil problem because many people
>> are apparently unaware of it. I've seen it seriously affect both cars
>> and components that have only been standing for a relatively short
>> time (a year or two).
>>
>
>I wonder about that. I have a 68 Torino with a Ford 9 inch Detroit in it,
>and I've had the pumpkin out several times. No pitting as you describe.
>I use 10W-90 gear oil in it. And it sits with very little use, has done so
>for the last 10 years.

How long does it sit between use... maximum?

It isn't a problem so long as the wheels get turned occasionally, it
doesn't always happen, and I don't know exactly why it does. -- maybe
its moisture related, maybe it's the condition of the oil, maybe it's
something else.

But, believe me, it happens. For anything that's been standing,
without movement, for a year or more, I'd always treat it as a
possibility. If I was storing a vehicle for more than a year I'd put
it on blocks and drain the axle(s).

--
John H

"John_H" > wrote in message
...
> Ted Mittelstaedt wrote:
> >
> >"John_H" > wrote in message
> .. .
> >>
> >> I particularly mentioned the hypoid oil problem because many people
> >> are apparently unaware of it. I've seen it seriously affect both cars
> >> and components that have only been standing for a relatively short
> >> time (a year or two).
> >>
> >
> >I wonder about that. I have a 68 Torino with a Ford 9 inch Detroit in
it,
> >and I've had the pumpkin out several times. No pitting as you describe.
> >I use 10W-90 gear oil in it. And it sits with very little use, has done
so
> >for the last 10 years.
>
> How long does it sit between use... maximum?
>

Over the last 10 years it has varied, there's no set schedule. Sometimes
I go out every couple months and run the engine until it's hot without
moving the car, other times I might move the car in and out of the driveway
once a month. But there have been periods during that time that it hasn't
moved for a year.

> It isn't a problem so long as the wheels get turned occasionally, it
> doesn't always happen, and I don't know exactly why it does. -- maybe
> its moisture related, maybe it's the condition of the oil, maybe it's
> something else.
>

Frankly I think it's the condition of the oil. The original reason this car
got parked (I used to drive it daily) was that a rear axle bearing got
shot to the point a seal failed and a bunch of axle oil came out. I had
changed gears in it about 2 years earlier but I hadn't done a good job
sealing the pumpkin to the housing so it always leaked and I was
constantly under it refilling the rear axle. So when the wheel bearing
seal failed I said screw it I'll get it done properly later. Later turned
out to
be about 8 years, that was 2 years ago. When I pulled it I also pulled
the 3.0:1 gear out of it and put in a 2.5:1 ring and pinion gear set
(I was tired of drag racing the car and wanted better highway speed
and mileage) that I bought off Ebay for $15, and had the thing
professionally disassembled and reassembled by a race shop.

When I reinstalled the pumpkin before I did so I bathed the axle housing
in mineral spirits, then ran many shop towels through it to completely
wipe it out, then blasted it with compressed air to make sure it
was perfectly dry and clean. So now it's got oil in it that hasn't seen
more
than probably 10 miles on the road, and is clean enough to use
as a laxitive.

> But, believe me, it happens. For anything that's been standing,
> without movement, for a year or more, I'd always treat it as a
> possibility. If I was storing a vehicle for more than a year I'd put
> it on blocks and drain the axle(s).
>

Ted