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#11
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Oppie wrote: > "Richard" > wrote in message > ... > Is this okay to do??? > > I usually use something like rislone engine flush every few oil changes > http://www.rislone.com/products.htm > > On occasion, I just add a quart of kerosene instead. Run the engine to get > it warm, add the kerosene and idle for 5 minutes before draining. Be sure to > change the filter. Seems to keep it nicely clean. A lot of posters over at bobistheoilguy seem to like a product called Auto-RX, personally I've never tried it, but they rave about it. Their web site looks mildly snake-oily, but on the other hand I've never seen a bad review of it. I may try it myself in my '55 as it is fairly clean inside but I would like it to be cleaner. nate |
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#12
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David Teichholtz wrote:
> <flush instructions snipped> > > This begs the question: "why?" I agree. > If regular oil changes are done, modern > engines go 300,000 miles and more. And by "modern" you mean 1960 and later. What has really improved are the oils- you couldn't run a 1966 engine 9000 miles between changes on 1966 motor oil, but you sure can do that with the same engine on modern oils. And it'll last as long as any 2005 engine given the same care too. The only thing that should ever be put in the crankcase is OIL, in my opinion. As a last resort to save a badly sludged engine, I have carefully flushed the crankcase with kerosene (NOT with the engine running!), refilled with cheap oil and a new filter, run it for 10 minutes, and then changed the oil and filter and replaced with good oil. But I'd never do that on an engine that wasn't doomed if I did nothing. FWIW- the "doomed" engine survived and has run another 30,000 miles or so and now has 210,000 miles. |
#13
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Mentioning "on the farm" does remind me of the things we've done in the past
on my dad, grandpa, and uncles farms. Using kerosene or diesel fuel (either one) was a regular practice. Running it very long at all really wasn't, but you can flush out quite bit of varnish, particulates, etc. doing just that. Combined with regular maintenance, it works out quite well. Running straight 30 weight for a short time afterwards (50 in big engines) provided for the removal of what was left (flush and waste product alike.) The technique is old, tried, and true! AND, recommended by companies such as Cummins, Detroit, and Volvo in their engines for many years. We ran our turbo diesels with the governors wide open for years; providing regular maintenance and flushes as part of this. On a gasoline engine, it may be better recommended to use something like mineral oil or a drain through of mineral spirits while the engine is still warm. Possibly let it run for a couple of minutes. But, be warned! Passenger vehicle engines are flimsy, when compared to big diesels. Don't overdo it! |
#14
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I'd personaly be affraid to "wash" out as much oil as I could from my
engine. It's well known that most engine wear happens durring start up because the oil has settled at the bottom of the pan and then takes a few moments to get to where it's needed. Even after the engine is shut down and the oil has drained, there is still an oil film on the engine internals. WITH this film wear happens on start up. Why would anyone want to strip this protective coating away and then start the car? Forget the kerosene and the motor flush, ignore the high priced oils (unless you car was designed to use them) and Slick 50's, turn off the infomercials pouring sand into engines. Just change yout oil and filter often. It's that simple. |
#15
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Really, I'm not suggesting you start it. Just warm it up a little bit
first, then let the thinner/clearer liquid run through it top to bottom and out of the pan. The straight weight oil then is used as the clean out, washing away the unwanted fluids and nasty stuff. Running your engine on anything that can be used to clean paint brushes....yeah, that's obviously bad. This process dissolves the sludge build up in the lines, heads, and pan for the most part. Rings, seals, bearings, and high friction zones are better left alone. And, as for high priced oils (synthetics They work well in pretty much any engine, so long as you have cared for it well before making the change and have let it break in properly. Otherwise, you may risk opening up places in you engine for oil to seep through that you never would of discovered otherwise. (Not a high mileage decision) |
#16
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Even with pouring "something" into a warm engine only to let it drain
right out, I just dont see the point. If you have a "V" type engine block, unless you have a filler cap on either valve cover, you're only getting one cyl. bank. Even on an in-line set up you have no way of getting a fluid dispersed into the engine. Gravity will take it down the path of least resistance. With the oil bath you mentioned, ("The straight weight oil then is used as the clean out, washing away the unwanted fluids and nasty stuff.") The cleaning fluid should be so diluted by then that any cleaning properties would be greatly diminished. If not, you're talking about dangerously decreased lubrication. All possible damage questions aside, I just dont see the point of all the extra effort. Changing your oil like you should seems the only solution. A side note, from what I've read about synth. oil, there doesnt seem to be a need for the extra cost of using it. Unless your car sees extreme driving conditions, ie racing or severe towing, the new dino oils fit the bill completely. And at a much more reasonable price. >From what I've found, one of the few cars that the manufacturer recomends synth oil is the Corvete. Thats because many people WILL race them. The synth oil can take the high heat. For your Chevette, the dino oils out now are much better then they were when your car was new. |
#17
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Ahhh - the Chevette...How long before Chevy "re-introduces" that name on a
new line? As a teen, we used to have a ball with Chevettes. I had one friend who changed out the engine mounts and put a Buick V-6 in it, Then, not to be outdone, his friend modified the whole front end (suspension, and extended it) to accommodate a 350 V-8. The V-6 won in a race as the 350 was just too difficult to control, but it was fun to play around...the good ol days.... > For your Chevette, the dino oils out now are much better then they were > when your car was new. > |
#18
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Yeah, I had an 81' Chevette-litte ugly yellow one. Ran the 'living hell'
out of it. Replaced the engine @ 180K miles with a slightly beefed up 2.5 out of a Fiero and an S-10 tranny. Was actually pretty quick. Friend of mine made use of a 2.8 Fiero GT motor in his and ran some good numbers at the strip, but I never made it that far. The good ole days! If only Detroit could make RWD small cars again; how much fun they would be with an Ecotec! |
#19
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Yeah, but then we'd have the "hump" again in the middle!! Didn't care up
front, but as a teen in a car full of teens, you never wanted to end up in the middle in the back... My sister had a '80 auto and I remember she used to bring it up to school and back (upstate NY from Long Island) twice a year, and she'd have to get it up to about 75-80 going down the hills on route 17, so she'd only slow down to about 45 with it floored making it up the next one... "hoosier_drifter" > wrote in message ... > Yeah, I had an 81' Chevette-litte ugly yellow one. Ran the 'living hell' > out of it. Replaced the engine @ 180K miles with a slightly beefed up 2.5 > out of a Fiero and an S-10 tranny. Was actually pretty quick. Friend of > mine made use of a 2.8 Fiero GT motor in his and ran some good numbers at > the strip, but I never made it that far. > The good ole days! If only Detroit could make RWD small cars again; how > much fun they would be with an Ecotec! > > |
#20
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"Richard" > wrote in message
... > Is this okay to do??? It's probably okay, but with today's detergent gasolines it provides no advantage. It's no better or worse than a commercial oil or gasoline additive, which are also unnecessary. |
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