Checking belt alignment

On 4/7/2014 11:54 AM, wrote:
> I already did that. The best I could tell there is no excessive play.
>
It would be logical to assume the problem is coming from the AC
compressor. I don't know how you would test for that. I think if you get
a sort of a funky rattling noise when you turn on the AC, that would be
a pretty good sign of the problem.

On Monday, April 7, 2014 10:27:17 PM UTC-5, dsi1 wrote:
> On 4/7/2014 11:54 AM, wrote:
>
> > I already did that. The best I could tell there is no excessive play.
>
> >
>
> It would be logical to assume the problem is coming from the AC
>
> compressor. I don't know how you would test for that. I think if you get
>
> a sort of a funky rattling noise when you turn on the AC, that would be
>
> a pretty good sign of the problem.

That is my initial thought. But it is not consistent and spinning the pulley by hand I cant tell that there is any noise or excessive wobble. I would just replace it but the air is working well and if replacing it I would have to evacuate, flush the system put new seals in etc. (I know I would not "have" to but it would be stupid not to if replacing the compressor.) Plus, the only compressor I could probably afford would come from autozone and for whatever reason it seems I only get a year or two of life out of them.

I thought about replacing just the clutch/pulley but have never done that. They are 90 bucks at autozone but a whole compressor with clutch and pully is 149. Plus, I would guess it could be a bad bearing inside the compressor which a clutch and pulley would not fix. (Although I don't really hear or see anything when spinning by hand).

I am seriously debating replacing the power steering pump with an autozone rebuilt unit. This is based on finding the black fluid in the reservoir and feeling what I am wondering is excessive vibration on the small line attached to the reservoir. I am not crazy about autozone stuff but do you think I would be alright with a reman pump from there on the main family vehicle? I think a new pump from Amazon that says motorcraft on it is 250. the autozone without the pulley is 50 with a lifetime warrenty. (If I knew the pump was bad I would probably buy the motorcraft). Is there a way to tell if a pump is bad if it spins by hand okay? I will also say at idle I can feel a slight vibration in the steering wheel and can barely hear a "whine" which I think is coming from the pump. Ironically, I disconnected the reservoir and started the car to drain the fluid. The noise and vibration in the steering wheel ceased.

I actually think I have multiple things going on and that the ac problem is separate from the vibration I felt/heard in the steering wheel.

One other thing, I read Escapes had problems with the front passanger side motor mounts. Not sure if it included the 2007. I felt around on it with the engine running the other day but could not think of a good way to check it. This sounds stupid, but it crossed my mind of connecting a continuity tester on it to see if somewhere metal was touching metal. I will say when feeling around on the rubber last night it "felt" okay.

As always I appreciate the advice and help!

On 4/8/2014 2:40 AM, wrote:
> On Monday, April 7, 2014 10:27:17 PM UTC-5, dsi1 wrote:
>> On 4/7/2014 11:54 AM, wrote:
>>
>>> I already did that. The best I could tell there is no excessive play.
>>
>>>
>>
>> It would be logical to assume the problem is coming from the AC
>>
>> compressor. I don't know how you would test for that. I think if you get
>>
>> a sort of a funky rattling noise when you turn on the AC, that would be
>>
>> a pretty good sign of the problem.
>
> That is my initial thought. But it is not consistent and spinning the pulley by hand I cant tell that there is any noise or excessive wobble. I would just replace it but the air is working well and if replacing it I would have to evacuate, flush the system put new seals in etc. (I know I would not "have" to but it would be stupid not to if replacing the compressor.) Plus, the only compressor I could probably afford would come from autozone and for whatever reason it seems I only get a year or two of life out of them.
>
> I thought about replacing just the clutch/pulley but have never done that. They are 90 bucks at autozone but a whole compressor with clutch and pully is 149. Plus, I would guess it could be a bad bearing inside the compressor which a clutch and pulley would not fix. (Although I don't really hear or see anything when spinning by hand).
>
> I am seriously debating replacing the power steering pump with an autozone rebuilt unit. This is based on finding the black fluid in the reservoir and feeling what I am wondering is excessive vibration on the small line attached to the reservoir. I am not crazy about autozone stuff but do you think I would be alright with a reman pump from there on the main family vehicle? I think a new pump from Amazon that says motorcraft on it is 250. the autozone without the pulley is 50 with a lifetime warrenty. (If I knew the pump was bad I would probably buy the motorcraft). Is there a way to tell if a pump is bad if it spins by hand okay? I will also say at idle I can feel a slight vibration in the steering wheel and can barely hear a "whine" which I think is coming from the pump. Ironically, I disconnected the reservoir and started the car to drain the fluid. The noise and vibration in the steering wheel ceased.
>
> I actually think I have multiple things going on and that the ac problem is separate from the vibration I felt/heard in the steering wheel.
>
> One other thing, I read Escapes had problems with the front passanger side motor mounts. Not sure if it included the 2007. I felt around on it with the engine running the other day but could not think of a good way to check it. This sounds stupid, but it crossed my mind of connecting a continuity tester on it to see if somewhere metal was touching metal. I will say when feeling around on the rubber last night it "felt" okay.
>
> As always I appreciate the advice and help!
>

If the clutch feels fine, it's probably OK. I'd just live with a noisy
AC pump if it's working although that could be signs that it's going to
fail. If the noise gets worse, you probably should stop using the AC
cause it would be a real bitch if the pump locked up.

I don't know anything about rebuilt pumps nor have I replaced one
before. If you don't mind purging the refrigerant into the air you
probably could replace it yourself. You'll need a vacuum pump to remove
water vapor from the system before adding the refrigerant. You'll also
need to replace the filter/drier. You might need to flush the oil out of
the system but maybe not. Well, that's the way I'd do it anyway.

On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 12:15:30 PM UTC-5, dsi1 wrote:
> On 4/8/2014 2:40 AM, wrote:
>
> > On Monday, April 7, 2014 10:27:17 PM UTC-5, dsi1 wrote:
>
> >> On 4/7/2014 11:54 AM, wrote:
>
> >>
>
> >>> I already did that. The best I could tell there is no excessive play.
>
> >>
>
> >>>
>
> >>
>
> >> It would be logical to assume the problem is coming from the AC
>
> >>
>
> >> compressor. I don't know how you would test for that. I think if you get
>
> >>
>
> >> a sort of a funky rattling noise when you turn on the AC, that would be
>
> >>
>
> >> a pretty good sign of the problem.
>
> >
>
> > That is my initial thought. But it is not consistent and spinning the pulley by hand I cant tell that there is any noise or excessive wobble. I would just replace it but the air is working well and if replacing it I would have to evacuate, flush the system put new seals in etc. (I know I would not "have" to but it would be stupid not to if replacing the compressor.) Plus, the only compressor I could probably afford would come from autozone and for whatever reason it seems I only get a year or two of life out of them..
>
> >
>
> > I thought about replacing just the clutch/pulley but have never done that. They are 90 bucks at autozone but a whole compressor with clutch and pully is 149. Plus, I would guess it could be a bad bearing inside the compressor which a clutch and pulley would not fix. (Although I don't really hear or see anything when spinning by hand).
>
> >
>
> > I am seriously debating replacing the power steering pump with an autozone rebuilt unit. This is based on finding the black fluid in the reservoir and feeling what I am wondering is excessive vibration on the small line attached to the reservoir. I am not crazy about autozone stuff but do you think I would be alright with a reman pump from there on the main family vehicle? I think a new pump from Amazon that says motorcraft on it is 250. the autozone without the pulley is 50 with a lifetime warrenty. (If I knew the pump was bad I would probably buy the motorcraft). Is there a way to tell if a pump is bad if it spins by hand okay? I will also say at idle I can feel a slight vibration in the steering wheel and can barely hear a "whine" which I think is coming from the pump. Ironically, I disconnected the reservoir and started the car to drain the fluid. The noise and vibration in the steering wheel ceased.
>
> >
>
> > I actually think I have multiple things going on and that the ac problem is separate from the vibration I felt/heard in the steering wheel.
>
> >
>
> > One other thing, I read Escapes had problems with the front passanger side motor mounts. Not sure if it included the 2007. I felt around on it with the engine running the other day but could not think of a good way to check it. This sounds stupid, but it crossed my mind of connecting a continuity tester on it to see if somewhere metal was touching metal. I will say when feeling around on the rubber last night it "felt" okay.
>
> >
>
> > As always I appreciate the advice and help!
>
> >
>
>
>
> If the clutch feels fine, it's probably OK. I'd just live with a noisy
>
> AC pump if it's working although that could be signs that it's going to
>
> fail. If the noise gets worse, you probably should stop using the AC
>
> cause it would be a real bitch if the pump locked up.
>
>
>
> I don't know anything about rebuilt pumps nor have I replaced one
>
> before. If you don't mind purging the refrigerant into the air you
>
> probably could replace it yourself. You'll need a vacuum pump to remove
>
> water vapor from the system before adding the refrigerant. You'll also
>
> need to replace the filter/drier. You might need to flush the oil out of
>
> the system but maybe not. Well, that's the way I'd do it anyway.

Its just embarrassing for my wife. She has to turn the air off when the car is going slow like through a drive through. Also, when starting it for the first time in a parking lot or something.

On Tue, 8 Apr 2014 12:00:31 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


>
>Its just embarrassing for my wife. She has to turn the air off when the car is going slow like through a drive through. Also, when starting it for the first time in a parking lot or something.

The compressor puts strain additional strain on all the belt pulleys.
The most likely "rattling" source is the tensioner.
But I had a water pump that mimicked a rod knock.
It was a relief to get the stethoscope on it.
BTW, you couldn't give me a rebuilt compressor.
Went through 2 with my last car in short order before I bought a new
one. The labor time and refrigerant aren't justified by the price
difference. Just my experience.

On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 2:47:28 PM UTC-5, Vic Smith wrote:
> On Tue, 8 Apr 2014 12:00:31 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >
>
> >Its just embarrassing for my wife. She has to turn the air off when the car is going slow like through a drive through. Also, when starting it for the first time in a parking lot or something.
>
>
>
> The compressor puts strain additional strain on all the belt pulleys.
>
> The most likely "rattling" source is the tensioner.
>
> But I had a water pump that mimicked a rod knock.
>
> It was a relief to get the stethoscope on it.
>
> BTW, you couldn't give me a rebuilt compressor.
>
> Went through 2 with my last car in short order before I bought a new
>
> one. The labor time and refrigerant aren't justified by the price
>
> difference. Just my experience.

I will say even after replacing the tensioner when the compressor turns on you can visually see the tensioner vibrate back and forth a lot more than when the compressor is off.

Are rebuilt power steering pumps ok?

On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 3:56:52 PM UTC-5, wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 2:47:28 PM UTC-5, Vic Smith wrote:
>
> > On Tue, 8 Apr 2014 12:00:31 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Is there a good way to check definiteively weather a motor mount is bad?
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > >Its just embarrassing for my wife. She has to turn the air off when the car is going slow like through a drive through. Also, when starting it for the first time in a parking lot or something.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > The compressor puts strain additional strain on all the belt pulleys.
>
> >
>
> > The most likely "rattling" source is the tensioner.
>
> >
>
> > But I had a water pump that mimicked a rod knock.
>
> >
>
> > It was a relief to get the stethoscope on it.
>
> >
>
> > BTW, you couldn't give me a rebuilt compressor.
>
> >
>
> > Went through 2 with my last car in short order before I bought a new
>
> >
>
> > one. The labor time and refrigerant aren't justified by the price
>
> >
>
> > difference. Just my experience.
>
>
>
> I will say even after replacing the tensioner when the compressor turns on you can visually see the tensioner vibrate back and forth a lot more than when the compressor is off.
>
>
>
> Are rebuilt power steering pumps ok?

On Tue, 8 Apr 2014 13:56:52 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


>
>Are rebuilt power steering pumps ok?

I've had good luck with them, but my son has had a few bad ones.
But he can change them so fast it's worth the price difference.
It's not like changing the A/C compressor.

On 4/8/2014 9:00 AM, wrote:
>
> Its just embarrassing for my wife. She has to turn the air off when the car is going slow like through a drive through. Also, when starting it for the first time in a parking lot or something.
>
This sounds serious. My guess is that an AC shop would be able to tell
you if the pump was the problem by listening to it. I'd just drive on in
and ask them if it sounds like the compressor is making the noise. This
would be the simplest way to check it out. Good luck!

dsi1 wrote:
> On 4/8/2014 9:00 AM, wrote:
>> Its just embarrassing for my wife. She has to turn the air off when
>> the car is going slow like through a drive through. Also, when
>> starting it for the first time in a parking lot or something.
>>

If it is making the noise on initial start up as well it likely isn't
the A/C pump.

Here's a test. Unplug the A/C clutch power so the clutch can't engage.
Does it still make noise on initial start up?

Also with the clutch unplugged turn on the headlights, rear defrost and
anything else that takes power. Then see if it makes the noise happen or
get worse.

Another one put a wrench on the tensioner and apply a bit of extra
pressure while the noise is happening. Does it change?

While it is making noise spray a SMALL amount of water on the belt and
listen for the noise to change.

You said you replaced the tensioner and an idler? How about the belt?

Did this just start one day or has it been getting worse over time?


--
Steve W.