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#1
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'96 T&C AC blower not running, last chapter.
I attempted to remove the Junction block, which is a big kinda wiring and
fuse box under the dash. The AC relay, which seems the be the cause of the blower not running, is under the box and in the factory shop manual it does NOT say anything about having to remove the entire dash to remove the junction block. Well, I can tell you that unless you are a contortionist, which I am not, maybe you DO need to remove the dash to get out that block. After playing with it for over an hour, I finally decided to just put everything back together. I found a red 12 ga. wire at the top of the steering column, probably from the flashers, ran a 12ga. wire from it, fused it with a 40a. fuse and attached it to the blue wire at the fan motor. It works like a charm, except that now it does not go off with the key. But hey, I'll take out the dash NEXT time it's COOL. John |
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#2
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actually three 10 mil bolts hold it in and it slides out with the bcm and it
takes 30minutes with out air tools Fieronut wrote: > I attempted to remove the Junction block, which is a big kinda wiring and > fuse box under the dash. The AC relay, which seems the be the cause of > the blower not running, is under the box and in the factory shop manual it > does NOT say anything about having to remove the entire dash to remove the > junction block. > > Well, I can tell you that unless you are a contortionist, which I am not, > maybe you DO need to remove the dash to get out that block. After playing > with it for over an hour, I finally decided to just put everything back > together. I found a red 12 ga. wire at the top of the steering column, > probably from the flashers, ran a 12ga. wire from it, fused it with a 40a. > fuse and attached it to the blue wire at the fan motor. It works like a > charm, except that now it does not go off with the key. But hey, I'll > take out the dash NEXT time it's COOL. > > John |
#3
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>actually three 10 mil bolts hold it in and it slides out with the bcm and
it takes 30minutes with out air tools Well, according to the shop manual, you're supposed to take those 4-10mm nuts loose that hold in the 40-wire connectors. I just COULD not get the upper left one loose. I could get the NUT loose but all the pulling in the world could not get the connector out of the block. So I gave up and put it all back to tegether and ran a wire of my own. Someday when I have the time and inclination, I'll do it right. John |
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