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#11
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Leaky A/C
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#12
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Leaky A/C
Kevin wrote: > ******Reply posted at the bottom******* > > > > wrote in message > ups.com... > > > > Steve wrote: > > > >>87 Lebaron. > > > >> > > > >>Obvious freon blowout under hood but leak not detectable as oily freon > > > >>is all over the hoses, compressor, hood, etc. > > > >> > > > >>Other than fully evacuating and recharging the system including tracer > > > >>dye to detect the leak, is there a better way to find the leak without > > > >>spending $200? > > > >> > > > >>Can one just put compressed air in the freon inlet and search for a > > > >>leak? > > > >> > > > >>I am sure it needs a part(s). > > > >> > > > >>Could be hose or compressor seal? > > > >> > > > >>I don't want to pay $200 to find the leak and still have to replace > > > >>hose or compressor and recharge the freon for anothr $200 plus? > > > >> > > > >>Any ideas? > > > >> > > > >>Email me above and/or post. > > > >> > > > >>Thanks in advance. > > > > > > > > > My advice is that unless you FULLY understand how refrigeration systems > > > work and are prepared to tackle the needed modifications to convert to > > > R-134a as well as to find/repair the failed component, you'd be WAY > > > better off financially just taking it to a reputable A/C shop. > > > > "Reputable" is easier said than done. > > I get that I could have multiple issues here including the difficulty > > because of the r12 system. > > I hadn't really considered changing over. > > It will depend on cost of repair t begin with then possible > > modification. > > > > >Its > > > pretty easy to flush away $200+ trying "shotgun" parts swaps and > > > half-assed repairs on AC systems and STILL have hot air blowing at you. > > > > > Yes, but I'm just exploring the easier stuff to save 70-85$ / hour. > > I am considering a can of R-134a with fitting adapter to see if I can > > find the leak. > > What will this hurt if there is no leak and it was the popoff valve? > > I would still need the reason the valve popped or I find a leak and > > replace the part. > > I hope it is not a bad compressor seal. > > If find a leak and replace any parts I'm saving about 2 hundred bucks > > for starters. > > If there is no fan/condenser problems all that would need to be done is > > to evac the system and charge with R12. > > I will need to investigate the difference in costs OF r12 vs changing > > the system to an R-134a freon but all this is moot until I find the > > leak and cause. > > > > > If you're serious about learning how to do it right, go to the forums at > > > www.aircondition.com, start reading, study hard, and don't cut corners. > > > > Thanks. > > Right. I'm not trying to cut corners because I need it to work as > > reliably as possible. > > I'm just doing what I can to save a few hundred bucks. If the > > compressor is bad a mechanic will rape me. > > > > > A failed R-12 system being converted to R-134a needs to be flushed, > > > filled with the correct oil, have a new drier installed, and evacuated > > > with a good HARD vacuum for several hours at a minimum, in addition to > > > any failed parts that need to be replaced. > > > > I understand. > > The question is one cost vs the other after I find the original > > failure. > > Thanks again. > > I understand your attempt to save some money by doing what you can. Here's > how it goes. You spend maybe 30 bucks for a service port adapter, a can of > 134a with a refill hose. You add the Freon through the low side port and > instantly hear it hissing out of the busted hose or blown fitting seal. > Good. Now you can replace the hose or whatever part is leaking yourself for > whatever the parts cost. Because you saw all that oil under the hood, it is > most likely a hose or fitting.. It might be the pop off valve on the > compressor that released because the high side pressure got too hi. In that > case you will not hear any leaks when you add Freon. You will then have to > find out why the pressure got too high. There are several things that could > cause this. Not enough air flow through the condenser (dirty fins, plastic > garbage from the road, cooling fan inoperative) or even a restriction > somewhere in the refrigerant system. Yes, this is where it get's complicted. >For instance, the dryer desiccant bag > can rupture and clog the expansion valve witch would block the flow of > refrigerant. That would cause the high side pressure to increase above the > pop off valve setting. Unfortunately you will probably not be able to > diagnose this yourself. Right. But will anyone else be able to without fully charging the system? >If you find a leaking component go ahead and replace > it and the dryer (always replace the dryer) yourself. Ok. >Then have a shop > evacuated and recharge the system. At that time you can decide weather or > not to convert to 134a. If you do, the only difference will be the type of > refrigerant and oil the shop puts back in. If you decide to go back with > r12, it will be expensive. Only a licensed tech can purchase r12 and it cost > up to 200 dollars to refill a system with it. Yes. I have to discuss this option with whatever technician I wind up with. > You can expect the shop to refuse any warranty on the job because you > diagnosed and repaired the system yourself. They can't be responsible if > something goes wrong, and plenty could go wrong. Yup. >There isn't enough time or > space here to go into all the details of complete A/C repairs. I spend about > five weeks with my students getting them to understand all the intricacies > of A/C work. If all goes well and you replace a busted hose, dryer, and > service port adapters, then have a shop evacuate and recharge with 134a, you > can expect to spend as much as a couple of hundred on the parts and another > couple of hundred on the shops labor. If that is all it is I can be happy. This chance get's remote when the dealer quotes 165$ for one hose though. >Probably not much less than an honest > shop would charge to diagnose and repair the same scenario, but then you > would have a warranty. Yes. >Of course most shops have a great tendency to > overkill on A/C work so that they don't take any chances of having to eat a > come back repair. Most likely, if you just bring it in to a shop and say > "fix it" you will wind up with a 12 to 15 hundred dollar repair bill. > That is why I am not too trusting. I've been working on my own cars for 35 years. I just never had to do any a/c work. I found an a/c tech that says he will leak test it for free. I then can determine what to do from there after I talk to him about these other possible issues.. > > Good luck > Thank you. > > -- > Kevin Mouton > Automotive Technology Instructor > "If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy" > Red Green |
#13
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Leaky A/C
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#14
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Leaky A/C
"Steve" > wrote in message ... > wrote: > > > Yes, but I'm just exploring the easier stuff to save 70-85$ / hour. > > I am considering a can of R-134a with fitting adapter to see if I can > > find the leak. > > What will this hurt if there is no leak and it was the popoff valve? > > > > It would render the entire charge contaminated and un-recoverable > because you would have mixed refrigrerants without properly evacuating > and flushing the system first. IOW, its illegal. > Only illegal for licensed technicians (last time I checked) and mixed refrigerants are recoverable. -- Kevin Mouton Automotive Technology Instructor "If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy" Red Green |
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