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rec.autos.makers.chrysler FAQ, Part 1/6
Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part1
Posting-Frequency: 15 days Last-modified: 2005/3/30 Version: 5.8b This section is generally revised every 300 days. - - - - - - - - - - - - IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to . Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE. Instead, reply to faq2 at that allpar /dot/ com address. If that fails, go to allpar.com and provide feedback from there. Thank you. - - - - - - - - - - - - * Important Note * Chrysler generally refers to the full Chrysler Group (Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep) or, historically, Chrysler Corporation (including Plymouth, DeSoto, Eagle, and, while they belonged to Chrysler, Simca, Rootes Group, Sunbeam, Singer, and AMC). DISCLAIMER: While every effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the information contained in this FAQ list compilation, the author and contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein. Some of the information is presented as opinion rather than fact. The writers and the maintainer do not claim to be authorities. information below may be reproduced in any way IF credit is given to the writers and maintainer; and that it is not published in book or magazine form without the prior written permission of the maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without asking, a FREE copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except for formatting) without the express permission of the maintainer (David Zatz - contact me via allpar.com). - - - - - - - - - - - - If you did not obtain this FAQ from one of its newsgroups or from the rtfm.mit.edu archives, it is probably NOT a current edition. The latest copy may be obtained from http://www.allpar.com/faq.html - - - - - - - - - - - - CONTENTS Part 1 - Related Resources (groups, Web sites, recall/TSB info) Before You Post, Read This! The Newsgroup: charter, notes, rationale Frequently Asked Chrysler/Mopar Questions Up and Coming Important Chrysler folk Part 2 What should I do... 1. ... before I post? 2. ... if I have problems with Chrysler? 3. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for) Oil Filter Discussion List of All Engines Since 1966 1. Guide to V-8s List of All Body Styles Since 1966 Part 3 Engine Codes Classic Car Troubleshooting Reading codes without a scan tool (computer controlled, carbureted engines) Crankcase inlet air filter, 2.2/2.5 engines. Part 4 Driveability: engine idling, power, mileage, stalling Transmissions Note that this part will be discontinued Part 5 Funny noises Oil leaks Temperature stuff Note that this part will be discontinued Part 6 Troubleshooting (except what is covered by parts 3, 4, and 5) This part will be discontinued Related FAQs: Neon - maintained by the Neon mailing list. ************************************************** ********************** BEFORE POSTING WITH COMPLAINTS/QUESTIONS 1. Check the FAQ. 2. Paranoia, overposting, and thoughtless posts are common. Show off your intelligence and maturity. 3. Do not confuse Chrysler with your dealership, the zone office, or the guy who picks up the phone. 4. If you are having problems with Chrysler or your dealer, read the relevant parts of the FAQ (1,2) and the Web site. 5. The natural inclination of people who have been mistreated is to respond to many posts. However, all companies sometimes make lemons or fail to treat customers well. Try to restrain anger. ************************************************** ********************** - Related Resources: http://allpar.com/ - major owner/enthusiast site * Models, history, repair, performance info Contact Chrysler via Net - http://www.dcanswers.com Phone Numbers 1-800-992-1997 Chrysler Customer Service - USA 1-800-465-2001 Chrysler Canada 1-800-255-9877 adapting new vehicles for people w/disabilities. 1-800-626-1523 Mopar catalog of manuals, videos, books (free) 1-800-677-5782 local 5-Star Dealer locator 1-800-998-1110 Neon Racing Headquarters 1(248)969-1690 Mopar Performance *technical* hot line ONLY for Mopar Performance issues!!! 1-800 448 0944 Chrysler Electronics (direct source for computers, etc) - also 256 464 1200 Other Resources Plymouth Owners Club (Plymouth & Fargo 25+ years old) 203 Main St., Cavalier, North Dakota 58220 Chrysler Canada Customer Service: Chrysler Center, P.O. Box 1621 Windsor, Ontario N9A 4H6 Chrysler Europe NV Woluwedal 106-108, 1200 Brussels, Belgium - Europe Selected Mopar books, 20% off: http://www.allpar.com/books.html Want information on your 1967 or older car? The Chrysler Historical Foundation, at 12501 Chrysler Freeway, CIMS 410-11-21, Highland Park, MI 48288, will supply you with service manuals, build records, owner's manuals, and stock photos - all for a fee. Newsgroups rec.autos.makers.chrysler rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys alt.hi-po.mopars alt.hi-po.mopars.neon alt.autos.dodge.trucks others in rec.autos.* .. wiz.mopar Chrysler was the first make in the rec.autos.makers.* hierarchy, but Volkswagen was the first make to have a Big Seven newsgroup. Chrysler beat both GM and Ford to having a Big Seven newsgroup! ************************************************** ********************** Thanks to Gene Fusco for the Mopar Mailing List's FAQ; thanks also to Lloyd R. Parker, Wayne Toy, Bohdan Bodnar, and Dan Stern. *************************CONTENTS***************** ************ This is divided into corporate and car sections. I. CORPORATE 1. What does DCX mean? DaimlerChrysler (CC used to mean Chrysler Corp, DC used to mean Direct Connection, precursor to Mopar Performance) DCX is DaimlerChrysler's stock symbol. The X was rumored to stand for Honda at one point (as in DCH)). 2. What is Chrysler's US customer service number? 800-992-1997 3. What is Chrysler's e-mail address? They don't have one for the general public. However, you can ask questions at http://www.dcanswers.com/ 4. What about the merger / takeover? Motivation: Chrysler execs got about $60 million in personal profit. Daimler bought Chrysler, doubling their profits. They reportedly siphoned off Chrysler profits via accounting tricks in order to make Mercedes look more profitable. Daimler got Chrysler's $8-10 billion war chest. One UAW and one German union rep on the new board. Only one Chrysler rep on the board left from original four. Many plants were sold. More are still being sold. Mitsubishi seems to be trying to separate as is Hyundai. 7. What's the deal with Chrysler still using Mitsubishis? Just after Chrysler phased out the last Mitsubishi engine, Daimler announced that Chrysler would phase out all Chrysler four cylinders in favor of jointly designed fours. A joint small V6 is rumored now as well. The new engine is said to be a powerhouse, but it's not a Hyundai or Mitsubishi engine, it's a true joint venture. Details: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/world-engine.html As far as the next-generation Neons and Stratuses, they are also being jointly developed - we understand Chrylser is leading both, though they are using newer Mitsubishi basic platforms. (MMC has now decided not to use the mid-sized sedans.) The first Neon-replacement will be the Dodge Caliber. You can read about Mitsubishi's current efforts at http://www.acarplace.com/ and about Chrysler's future vehicles at http://www.allpar.com/model/upcoming.html 8. What's the deal with Chrysler's names in Canada and elsewhere? Same names, different cars. Different names, same cars. For the history, see http://www.valiant.org/canada.html and http://www.allpar.com/world/ Dodge and Plymouth cars were both ended in Canada, but Dodge was later restored and is debuting in Europe after many decades. 9. How reliable are Consumer Reports' ratings? See the discussion at http://www.allpar.com/cr.html 10. How can I get help for problems Chrysler won't fix? See the discussion at http://www.allpar.com/trouble.html. Keep trying the Chrysler Customer Center. Know the TSBs. Visit http://www.nhtsa.gov ... keep trying and keep your cool. 11. What's the deal with Chrysler Europe, Simca, and Talbot? Chrysler owned Simca and Rootes/Sunbeam until the late 70s, but sales kept going up and down (usually down). Peugeot bought them and sold the Omni as the Talbot. They had Simca/Sunbeam engines (Lloyd Parker). The Centura sold in Australia was a Simca (Dan Stern). See http://www.allpar.com/world/ for many details. 12. Why are so many Chrysler dealers so awful? Perpetual contracts. Organizational culture. Incorrect assumptions at all levels. Zone officials who think all customers are whiners and all dealers are honest. 13. What is Chrysler doing about it? Five Star program which requires better processes to be in place and does not rely solely on survey ratings helps SOME Chrysler dealers. It seems to be circumvented by less scrupulous dealers with less dedicated zone reps. ******** 14. Should I use high octane gas? Only if your car was designed for it (see your owner's manual) or if you've advanced the timing or your engine is knocking. According to Chrysler and others, many high-octane gasolines have a low driveability index, which can cause long cold start times, warm-up sags, hesitations, and driveway die outs. Under the law, ALL gasolines sold in the US must meet certain standards for detergent; if you really need to "drive your engine clean" get a bottle of Techron or Mopar engine cleaner. Turbo engines are usually designed to use either regular or premium. Use of premium adds power. 20. Is X good for my engine? (includes Slick50) The Toyota FAQ (Todd Haverstock) sez: "Independent labs as well as engine manufacturer Briggs and Stratton have rendered a verdict that Slick 50 and similar oil treatments are useless." The Gasoline FAQ says most gasoline additives are useless. Others have weighed in on that score, and DuPont sued to prevent Slick 50 from using Teflon (unsuccessfully). For more details: http://www.tfb.com/sdmc/oil.html 21. Do I have a Chrysler or Mitsubishi (MMC) engine? See part 2. 22. Does the Mini really use a modified Neon engine? Yes, it's a smaller version of the Neon engine designed for European Neons and a small Chrysler that never materialized. The factory was a joint venture with Rover. The supercharged version is quite nice. 23. What does SOHC, SMPI, etc mean? What do I have? Note: No current Chrysler has a distributor or throttle body injection. * DIS means distributorless ignition system. No rotor! * SOHC and DOHC refer to the number of camshafts; one or two. * EFI means electronic fuel injection, such as the following: * TBI - throttle body injection; one or two injectors spray fuel into the air as it heads to the cylinders. * MPI uses one fuel injector for each cylinder. It sprays fuel in the intake manifold, firing at the intake valves. Smoother than TBI, with more power *and* better mileage. * SMPI is sequential multiple-point injection; the injector only fires when the fuel can go straight through the valve and into the cylinder instead of splashing onto a closed valve. * Direct injection sprays fuel directly into each cylinder. This is mainly used in diesel engines (thanks, Michael Turley!) -- Note: all current Chrysler products use DIS and returnless SMPI. Mitsubishi is pioneering direct injection for gas engines. The latest is coil on plug ignition which provides a separate coil for each spark plug, located right on top of the plug, for the best control and spark power. 25. What kind of oil should I use in my 2.2 or 2.5 liter engine? On February 7, 1995, a Chrysler engineer said 5W30 was best for 2.0, 2.2, and 2.5 liter non-turbo engines, for winter or year-round in climates such as that of New Jersey. All dealers I surveyed incorrectly recommended and used 10W30! - In 1993 and 1998 Chrysler said 5W30 was best for all its cars. - Dan Stern says synthetic 10W30 is better than natural 5W30. - The benefits of 5W30 or synthetics seem greatest in cold weather when oil is most viscous (before the engine warms). - Even GM recommends 5W30 on their Vortec V8s. Use Energy Conserving II and SH grades where possible. For my car, recommended oil changes are at 6 months / 7,500 miles. I change it at 6 months or 6,000 miles. GM says many owners do not need to change oil until 10,000 miles! If you are concerned, use synthetic and change at 6,000. ** CHECK YOUR MANUAL **. Dealers often suggest things like changing your antifreeze every three months to get easy money. If you exceed Chrysler's recommendations, do the easy work yourself. PS> Overheating after a an antifreeze change/radiator flushing means your mechanic didn't purge the system correctly. Be careful to thoroughly purge the system of air bubbles - or invest in head gaskets. This is VERY important. 5W30 is generally recommended for the 2.0 and 2.4 liter engines, too. HOWEVER in some engines 5W30 is NOT recommended. If you have the 2.7 V6 we STRONGLY recommend synthetic. 26. What kind of engine do I have ??? Raise the hood and check the emissions sticker. You can decode your vehicle ID number (VIN) using most car manuals. The emissions sticker will tell you the displacement of the engine. 27. What is a Mopar? Do I have one? Mopar is slang for a Chrysler-produced car. Some extend it to AMCs and to MMC products (e.g. Colt) sold by DC; and some restrict it to high performance only. It is the name of Chrysler's parts division. Mopar stands for MOtor PARts. MoPar is a registered trademark. 28. Which are the Diamond Star models? Diamond Star models are those built by the Diamond Star (DSM) plant in Illinois. This was a joint venture but is now 100% MMC. The Stratus/Sebring/Avenger Coupes and Eclipse are the only DSM models. The Stealth used some Chrysler technology but was mostly Mitsubishi - and was all Japanese. The Colt, Sapparo, FWD Challenger, and Ram 50 were re-badged Mitsubishis. 29. What are the K-cars? Herb DaSilva: ... Chrysler used the components on the Aries/Reliant (K) in many of its other platforms. These platforms... share similar distance between the wheels on the same axle, and have the same suspension design. Most K variants can swap struts (H is an exception). K derivates include: Laser (pre-88)/Daytona (G), Shadow/Sundance (P), LeBaron/New Yorker (J), LeBaron sedan (pre-90)/Lancer (H), Dynasty/New Yorker/Imperial (C), Acclaim/Spirit/LeBaron sedan (AA). Each derivative has a different wheelbase and floor pan. First-generation minivans are also loosely based on the K. These cars are collectively referred to as EEKs. There is a mailing list for them at http://www.eekcars.com/ 30. How do I find the fault codes stored in my engine computer? See Part 3 of this FAQ. 32. How often should I change my trans fluid? Check your service manual. The severe service definition means that the vehicle is operated *primarily* in one of those conditions. Mopar 3-speed automatic transmissions need to have oil and filter changed when the oil gets discolored due to suspended solids. ATF usually does not need to be changed unless contaminated. The trans oil can get contaminated by overheating or by severe internal wear due to abuse, especially towing. (Mostly from Robert Muir). 4-speed automatic transmissions should have their ATF changed every three years or so. It MUST be replaced with ATF+3, NOT Dexron. (Newer automatics require ATF+4). MODERN TRANSMISSIONS WILL BE DESTROYED IF YOU USE THE WRONG FLUID. See http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html Even some 3-speed DC transmissions are NOT compatible with Dexron - read your manual !!! 34. What kind of gas should I use? Use the octane level your owner's manual recommends and the brand you have had good luck with. If your engine knocks adjust the timing. 35. No longer relevant; deleted. 36. What about lemons? To quote the rec.autos FAQ -- every auto manufacturer has manufactured a lemon or two; even Honda admits to this. Please don't waste everyone's time by announcing to the world that your `brand x' automobile is terrible, so all brand x automobiles are terrible, so no one should ever buy a car from the brand x company. Such articles are worse than useless, because they cause wasted bandwidth while carrying little or no useful information. 37. Are K&N filters worth it? David Cooley reported on a magazine test of aftermarket air filters. The paper filters were respectable, but the K&N and Accell filters flowed almost 3 times as much air when dirty as clean paper filters of the same size. The K&N passed less particulate matter than the paper filter; as it got dirtier outside, they sprayed on a new coat of oil (without cleaning) and found it filtered even better. K&N filters change your engine sound, rarely need replacement, and flow better when dirty. Other than that, you may not notice much difference unless you have a high-efficiency exhaust and performance engine. There has been debate over the actual filtering ability of these filters; the power boost on TBI cars is negligible. So. . .probably not. 38. Is there anything special I should do if I have ABS? Marv Miller suggests replacing the brake fluid every 2-4 years regardless of car make. Use only the brake fluid the car maker recommends!!! Fully depressurize the system before adding or changing brake fluids. Note - ABS is now far more reliable than it used to be. Indeed, the primary source of failure is dirt in the sensors, which can easily be cleaned. 39. What kind of transmission fluid should I use? Is Dexron OK? Use ONLY what it says in your owner's manual to use. Many Chrysler transmissions are NOT compatible with standard fluid! ATF+3 is usually the best one to use with automatic transmissions before 2001, ATF+4 after. THIS IS AN IMPORTANT and very misunderstood issue. You should really visit http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html if you have a four-speed or five-speed Chrysler automatic. Even most three-speed automatics are required to use ATF+4. 40. Are Chrysler transmissions still junk? Not if you use the right transmission fluid. By the way, the 545 is actually based on the old, reliable 727. 41. Do I have one of those evil ABS systems I heard about? These had the Bendix ABS-10: (Thanks, G. Smith) 90-93 C body (Dynasty/New Yorker) 90-93 Y body (Imperial) 91-92 BB body (Premier/Monaco - Renault imports) 91-93 S body (Minivans - Caravan/Voyager) Chrysler extended the warranty to 100,000 miles At some point we have to remove this sectionŠ 42. Aren't Chryslers junk? / Has Mercedes improved Chrysler quality? Chrysler was working on quality before the takeover, yielding the PT Cruiser - which is beating the Honda Civic on quality surveys - and the Jeep Liberty, which is also doing very well. Chrysler has been making great strides in quality. Mercedes is, if anything, damaging those efforts by emphasizing an "expert" approach rather than a Toyota-style inclusive/participatory approach to quality. Look at Mercedes' quality reports, then at Chrysler's. Generally, Chrysler quality TROUNCES Mercedes. So how is Mercedes helping? 86. All other questions. Check the computer codes. ******************* UP AND COMING ****************** This section has been replaced by http://www.allpar.com/news/ and http://www.allpar.com/model/upcoming.html *********************** AUTOMATIC TRANS FLUID ********************** The FAQ maintainer notes that many people have destroyed their transmissions by using the wrong fluid. Some people have had bad transmission problems go away when they changed the fluid. Follow Chrysler's recommendations to the letter. Ignore the alternative fluid (as in "if Mopar is unavailable, use..."). See http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html for details. *********************** NEWSGROUP CHARTER *********** (This section never changes. The newsgroup was created around 1994.) - The Newsgroup Rec.Autos.Makers.Chrysler -- CHARTER COVERAGE. Rec.autos.makers.chrysler was set up to cover issues related to cars and trucks made by Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler, Fargo, DeSoto, Jeep, Eagle, and all other makes sold or marketed by Chrysler Corp. BEHAVIOR. Political comments and commercial advertising will be discouraged. However, *short* product announcements, preferably restricted to the name, availability, and a very brief description of the product's function (where applicable) are acceptable. Discussion of whether Chrysler products are of good or bad quality, lengthy comparisons to Hondas or other cars, and similar arguments and flamewars with no foreseeable conclusion are heavily discouraged. Participants are asked to be kind, considerate, and supportive, and to generally keep an open, warm atmosphere so that the function of this newsgroup may be maintained. RATIONALE. This group is proposed to help Chrysler (CC) vehicle owners to support each other, save money, and maximize enjoyment of their autos. As in rec.autos.vw, Chrysler owners need a forum where they feel unreservedly welcomed, and where they can obtain esoteric information from involved people with similar experiences and vehicles. This newsgroup should be general enough for those who know little about cars to get a broad range of information and advise from, while allowing those more into the products to exchange their views and advice. In a world dominated by GM, Ford, and VW (Europe) products, Chrysler owners often find discussions difficult. Most aftermarket parts and advice are for GM and Ford owners; knowledge about Chrysler is hard to find. The press don't cover CC as well as they could -- and CC's dissemination of information to the press and the public is poor. Chrysler products have quirks which most mechanics don't seem to be aware of, leading them to replace transmissions when the fault is in a 20 cent vacuum hose, or to replace the engine computer instead of plugging in a hose or changing a sensor. Chryslers are often seen as ordinary American cars (unlike makes which many mechanics will admit they are not familiar with) -- but what will work on a GM or Ford will often not work on a Dodge. There is a vast ocean of experience in Chrysler products out on the Internet which may help owners to save time, money, and trouble. CC vehicles are common enough, yet idiosyncratic enough, to deserve their own place in the Net hierarchy -- just as Volkswagens are. In addition, it is important for CC vehicle owners to have a place to discuss the problems and benefits of ownership, to exchange detailed information and personal experiences, in a supportive and positive atmosphere. In short, I hope to develop a group as vibrant and helpful as the Mopar mailing list or the rec.autos.VW group have been, while making this group accessible to all Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep, Eagle, and Chrysler owners, even those who don't know what a Mopar is. *********************** IMPORTANT DC FOLK *********** Hard to keep up to date due to reshuffles. Write to: DaimlerChrysler, 1000 Chrysler Drive, Auburn Hills, MI 48326-2766 Your letter will go to customer service pretty much regardless of who you write to anyway. FAQ maintained by David Zatz who works at http://www.toolpack.com/ and may sometimes be seen at http://www.ptcruizer.com/ (end of FAQ part 1) |
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Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part6
Posting-Frequency: 15 days Last-modified: 2004/4/13 Version: 4.4 DISCLAIMER: Effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in this compilation, but the author and contributors assume no responsibility for errors, omissions, or damages resulting from the use of the information. Some of the information is opinion. The writers and the maintainer are not authorities. Any part of this FAQ may be reproduced PROVIDED that credit is given to the writers and the maintainer; that it is not published in any form without the prior written permission of the maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without needing to ask, a FREE copy of the final material; and that no changes are made without the express permission of the maintainer (Dr. David Zatz - http://www.toolpack.com/ surveys and organizational development consulting - he also hangs out at http://www.ptcruizer.com/ ). - - - - - - - - - - - - IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to (e-mail address removed). Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE. Instead, reply to faq2 at that allpar /dot/ com address. Thank you. - - - - - - - - - - - - Please do NOT ask me car-related questions, as I have a limited. personal knowledge. Thank you. See http://www.allpar.com/trouble.html or rec.autos.makers.chrysler instead. - - - - - - - - - - - - PART VI - Other Troubleshooting / Quick Fixes There is a specific Neon FAQ. This section of the FAQ may be eliminated soon. Other parts of this FAQ: Part 3 - Classic cars Part 4 - Driveability and transmission Part 5 - Funny noises and oil leaks and temperature stuff * Many problems are caused by poor battery connections to the cables, which can cause signals to the computer to be incorrect without (or with) fault codes being registered. Check and clean the battery terminals and cables first! * Additional information on troubleshooting and repairs is on the web site at http://www.allpar.com/ * Some of these issues are discussed in detail at http://www.valiant.org/ (a site dedicated to A-bodies like the Dodge Dart and Plymouth Valiant and Plymouth Duster.) Note: there are *several* entries for some problems. 1. Fuel leak - ALL 2.2 engines 2. Rampage (maybe other models) - water leaks 3. Loose steering 5. Doors freezing shut 8. Air conditioner (a/c) smell 9. Caravan/Voyager door won't open/close 11. Check Engine light went on 13. DING sound when hard cornering 20. Speedometer doesn't work 21. ABS jerky 24. Brake rotor warping 29. Smoky exhaust 32. Water leak in Shadow/Sundance hatch 36. Control/status panel/console acting funny 52. ABS note - Chrysler and GM minivans (see also #64) 55. Service engine light goes on. 56. Cruise control problems 57. Battery charging problems 58. Sundance/Shadow (possibly others) hatchback leak 59. Car/minivan will not start; makes CLICK noise instead 60. Spongy / mushy brakes 61. Squeal when a/c is/goes on; adjusting belt tension 63. Weatherstrip repairs 64. Preventing ABS problems 66. Jeep 4.0 noise 67. LH clunk on acceleration 68. Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze wipers acting funny 69. 4-speed auto trans problems - misc 70. Shimmy under acceleration - 35-45 mph 72. Gas gauge acting funny 74. Backfiring 75. PREVENTION - 3.0 liter engine 78. CV boot replacement 81. Rear defrost activated by brake lights 84. Odd behavior when starting (e.g. wiper activation) 86. Fluid leaks (inside the car) ================================================== ============== 1. FUEL LEAKS: There was a recall for fuel line replacements on some vehicles in 1988. A rigid line was replaced with a flexible one between the metal line and fuel pressure regulator. (Sherrie Settle). All 2.2 turbo owners should check their fuel clamps for leaks on a regular basis. This is VERY important. Tighten them if needed. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 2. Water leaks (Rampage, possibly other L bodies) Gary Howell <(e-mail address removed).net> says: Under the windsheild at each lower corner, holes rust through. The best fix is to remove the windsheild and have the body work done properly. The cheap fix is to remove the windsheild trim and fill the holes with RTV. The holes are not always visable to the eye, sometimes the holes are under the glass or like a micro screen. If a speaker wire has been run through the door seal, water will sometimes follow the wire past the seal. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 3. Loose steering Check the ball joints and tie rods. For M-bodies and A-bodies, try replacing the current steering box with a new police-type steering chuck from Mopar Performance (or used from a police car or taxi). ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 5. Doors freezing shut Jim Van Damme suggestd: 1. Open the door panel and undo the nuts that hold the door latch onto the door. Slide the whole latch down (or was it up?) to allow the handle to engage sooner. 2. Lubricate it well (de-ice with WD-40) when you've got the panel off. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 8. A/C smell David Ta believes the a/c smell comes from condensation collecting on the horizontal fins of compressors used on some models. One way to prevent this is to blow hot air for a couple of minutes before turning off the ignition. There is a Chrysler extra warranty of 7/70 on LH evaporators). This is a problem on many different makes and models, and normally the dealer will try to solve it using fungicide. David Ta also said a GM friend of his mixed water and baking soda, and poured it into the drain area next to the firewall, later rinsing with a water hose. He did this once a year when he winterized. A new solution (sent by David Ta) was described by Popular Mechanics, in November 1996: AC Delco's kit No. 15-8632 and relay (if necessary) 15-8264, to run the blower for 5 minutes, an hour after the ignition is turned off if the a/c has been turned on for at least 4 minutes. The article also gives a short-term fix with GM spray can and verifying the evap drain hole at the firewall is not blocked. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 9. Caravan/Voyager stuck doors: Mike Stallcup couldn't get his minivan door to close, so he turned the power locks on and off a few times. Fixed it. Someone else found the problem to be a loose trim panel held to the back of the door. The roller on the track at the top/inside of the door was also out of alignment; the bolts had loosened and the door was not closing tight. Check the tightness of the bolts. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 11. Check Engine light goes on: 1. This may be due to the need for a periodic service. 2. It may be the oxygen sensor (Steve Sheldon) 3. Check computer codes (see part 3) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 13. DING sound when hard cornering Paul Schikora suggested this might be the low gas alert being sounded due to the gas sloshing around in the tank. Pete Morrissette said he also had a dinging sound, but not the same kind: his Voyager's sliding door pinged/dinged on bumps and turns. Paul Schikora said the bolt connecting the door to the arm (which slides in the track at the front top of the door) sometimes loosened. To check, grab the door there and try to push/pull it; if it moves in and out, the bolt must be tightened. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 20. Speedometer doesn't work There is a TSB out on this problem with the Shadow/Sundance. Take it to your dealer, they should fix it for free. The TSB was issued in 1994. The problem is the speed sensor connector; a new one must be spliced in. Details from Neil Emiro on replacing the speed sensor yourself follow. They probably apply to all K-based (and extended K-based) cars: To get it out, you will need a 10mm wrench, a flat blade screwdriver, and if your car has cruise, a 19mm wrench. Jack the car up. If you look underneath at the oil pan plug, and look back on the car, to where the axle goes into the tranny, you will see it. It's mounted in the top of that extension housing. If your unit is round, just unplug it and remove the cable if there is one, and pry it up, putting the screwdriver between the black body of the sensor, and the natural color base. If your unit is kind of short and diamond shaped, disconnect the wiring and cable, and there's a 10mm bolt on the far side that you'll probably be able to feel better than see. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 21. ABS jerky Dealer reprogramming the PCM fixes the brakes. (Steve Chu) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 24. Brake rotor warping The dealers have received a bulletin saying that if cars come in with less than 30,000 miles with worn out brake pads and rotors in need of turning they are to do it under warranty. (Mary Bucy) If lug nuts are over-tightened, it places too much stress on the rotors resulting in warpage soon thereafter. I always go over each lug with a torque wrench set at 90 ft lbs. (Ted Ruscha) Jeff Brinkerhoff <(e-mail address removed)> wrote that rotors are a frequent problem, but that replacing them with aftermarket rotors usually works well. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 29. Smoky exhaust From: (e-mail address removed) (Mo Brooks) Smoke Color / Reason Black = Too much fuel (probably bad sensor or dirty air cleaner) Blue = Oil White = Water Black smoke on acceleration in early 2.2l engines may come from the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose at the elbow; may be a bad injector; or may be duel to high fuel pressure. You may want to check for restrictions in the fuel return line. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 32. Water leak in Shadow/Sundance hatch Tim Drake fixed his 1987 Sundance trunk leak by taking the light cover off and treated the gaskets and drilled small holes in the bottom of the light covers, so the water could leak out the bottom. From: (e-mail address removed) (Wade M. Goldman) fixed the water in his trunk and right tail light assembly (which caused on tail light to be dimmer than the other). After replacing the light socket he corrected a gap between the light assembly moulding and the car with RTV silicone. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 36. Control/status panel acting funny Test the Control Panel by holding down the trip and reset buttons, turning ignition on, releasing the buttons, then pressing the US/Met button. Read the speedo. Press the US/Met button and you should see a six. Also check the codes in the engine computer -- (Matt Rowe) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ --------------------------------------------------------------------- 52. ABS note See http://www.allpar.com/fix/ABS.html ----------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 55. Service engine light goes on. Service the engine. The light can be shut off with a special tool. Or remove the bulb. -------------------------------------------- 56. Cruise control problems Many older cars used both a speed sensor and a speedo cable, so the speed sensor could go with affecting the speedometer. Fault codes might not appear if the speed sensor is giving an incorrect signal. -------------------------------------------- 57. Battery charging problems Check the battery cables, then check the alternator with a test light and/or a voltmeter or an alternator/charging system analyzer. There are usually four connections on a Chrysler alternator, one large terminal (power out), one ground, and two field control wires. To check the field control wires, test both for voltage with the engine running. One should show battery voltage, the other a reduced voltage. If both show battery voltage, the problem could be in the computer (not providing a ground for the second field circuit). If one has battery voltage and the other shows a much reduced voltage, the computer probably is trying to "full field" the alternator and therefore the alternator is probably the problem. Check output voltage. If output voltage is extremely high (20 volts or more) check the circuit from the output terminal to the battery for an open. If the voltage is battery volts but not a charging voltage and the fields seem correct, suspect the alternator. -------------------------------------------- 58. Hatchback water leaks From: (e-mail address removed).com (25312-lazaro) Water enters the trunk by running down the side of the hatch opening and when it reaches the tail lights, it flows into them. From there, it pours into the trunk through the holes that the tail light bulbs fit through. From inside the trunk, remove the tail light bulb cover panel. Now unfasten a few of the tail light bulbs and let them hang into the trunk. With a long 1/4 inch drill bit (or similar size), drill a few holes in the bottom of the tail light lens by sticking the bit through the holes the the bulbs occupied. This allows the water that enters the tail lights to drain out these holes and onto the ground instead of accumulating in the tail lights and pouring into the trunk through the bulb holes. I drilled about 3 or four 1/4 inch holes per each bulb location. Did the trick. The trunk has been bone dry ever since.I replaced the water-damaged carpet backing with 1/2 inch household carpet backing that I got at a home improvement store and cut to size. It improves the sound deadening, too. The cardboard floor (spare tire cover) was water damaged too, so I got a new one for ~$25 at the dealer. Make sure you air dry the trunk real well. I had so much water that I had to pull the drain plug at the bottom of the spare tire well to let it out. I know of Ford Probes suffering this same problem (with similar solution) due to the same hatchback & tail light configuration. -------------------------------------------- 59. Car / minivan will not start, CLICK!s instead David J. Allen quoted (e-mail address removed).mil as saying that, when his 89 Caravan sometimes made a loud CLICK instead of starting, he saw that the starter solenoid contacts were eroded down the thickness of a penny. Vandamme soldered a real copper penny, filed to the shape of the missing electrode, into the space. David J. Allen wrote: [On my 88 Caravan,] I tore the starter down and found that the contacts had worn down to the point of only providing intermittant contact when engaged. A friend of mine brought me a couple of strips of 1/8" copper from work which I cut and formed into new contacts. They fit right in and I haven't had a problem yet (1 1/2 years). -------------------------------------------- 60. Spongy / mushy brakes Mushy / spongy brakes, especially after brake servicing: Have the brake fluid bled *properly* (most mechanics will not do it the correct way). Jim Murphy says that Chrysler has a new procedure involving pumping the brakes to pressurize the system, then opening the bleed screw to allow the fluid and air to rush out. The details: 1: Pump pedal three or four times and hold it down before bleeder screw is opened 2: Push pedal toward floor and hold it while bleeder screw is opened 3: Release the pedal after the bleeder screw is closed 4: Repeat steps 1 through 3, four or five times, at each bleeder screw to pass a sufficient amount of fluid to expel all the trapped air from anywhere in the system. CAUTION: Just cracking the bleeder screw often restricts fluid flow, and a slow weak fluid discharge will NOT get all the air out. Open the screw at least one full turn. -------------------------------------------- 61. Squeal when a/c is on; adjusting belts You can replace the idler pulley and belt to stop the squeal on the minivans and some other vehicles. It may go away given a month. On some vehicles you may need to adjust belt tension, but do not overtighten, or you will need many expensive new parts! NOTE Adjusting Caravan belts: A tensioner is below the alternator. Put a 15mm wrench on it and pull down (like you were tightening that bolt) and the tensioner will rotate and take the tension off of the belt. Much easier from underneath by removing the splash sheild. That is held by 4 10mm screws. BUT BE CAREFUL!!! I own 2 CC products; an '88 Caravan 2.5L and an '89 Sundance 2.5L. AC clutch went on both at about 80,000 mi, again on both about 30,000 mi later, again, etc., etc. Found out that if the belts are not tightened within specs., it wipes out the bearings SOON!!! Only use a Burroughs belt tension gauge - about $50.00. NO MORE PROBLEMS!! Hope this helps. By the way, the Sundance has over 200,000 mi, and the Caravan has 135,000 - no other serious problems, other than CV boot replacements. -------------------------------------------- 63. Weatherstrip repair Marvin Stockman <(e-mail address removed).navy.mil> reports: I usually purchase a caulking gun sized tube of black GE Silicon II sealant. Clean off the damaged weatherstripping with alcohol or other suitable cleaner. Apply an appropriate amount of sealer to damaged area. Cover area with plastic kitchen wrap and with sealer covered form to an appropriate shape. Close door. Car can be used and door can be opened and closed, but don't remove plastic for 3 or 4 days. Don't use Saran wrap as most silicone sealers need moisture to set and Saran is too good a vapor barrior. I have done this for many years on many cars. -------------------------------------------- 64. Preventing ABS problems Marv Miller cautions: Due to the fact that the ABS-10 uses an accumulator, which acts as a "pressure reservoir", the fluid level in the master cylinder varies. When the pump pressurizes the accumulator, the fluid level in the master cylinder drops by about 1/2 inch - the fluid went into the accumulator. This is why you are supposed to completely depressurize the system by fifty or more depressions of the pedal before checking the fluid. The accumulator will empty back into the master cylinder reservoir. If you don't depressurize the system to check the level, when the accumulator pressure drops (in deteriorating systems this sometimes happens overnight), brake fluid will overflow out of the master cylinder caps. -------------------------------------------- 66. Jeep 4.0 noise >We recently bought a 95 Cherokee with the 4.0l 6cyl engine. After a >couple thousand miles, it started making a knocking sound at idle. It >sounds to me like one valve is out of adjustment. Don Ferrario responded: This is typical of the 4.0L engine. Other than the sound, which is admittedly alarming, it should not cause any other problem. (note: In 1996, the 4.0 was redesigned to lower noise.) -------------------------------------------- 67. LH clunk Michael Kell and others wrote about a clunking noise in LH models when people coast and then accelerate again. Retorquing the front axle nuts to 120 lb ft may fix it - but it may not (see below). David Ta's dealer pointed him to TSB 02-04-95, which says to replace the outer C/V joints. Mr. Ta was kind enough to inform the FAQ maintainer in e-mail. -------------------------------------------- 68. Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze wipers acting funny This may simply be the speed-sensitive wiper speed feature at work. However, some, including Pierce Leonberger, found that the problem was only solved when the dealer recalibrated the wiper module, which controls the wiper timing. There may be a TSB out on this problem. -------------------------------------------- 69. Misc 4-speed automatic transmission problems See http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html for a full and up to date list. ***NEVER USE DEXRON IN A CHRYSLER 4-SPEED AUTOMATIC ***FLUSH THE SYSTEM AND RETRAIN THE COMPUTER IF DEXRON IS IN IT -------------------------------------------- 70. Shimmy under acceleration - 35-45 mph (e-mail address removed).net responds to a complaint of shimmy in a 96,000 mile 1986 Dodge Aries from 35-45 mph under accleration. He said that the inner CV joint housing on the passenger side axle is worn. Probably easiest repair is to replace passenger side axle with rebuilt unit. There is a possiblity of it being in the drivers axle. But it is more common in the passenger axle based on your complaint. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 72. Gas gauge acting funny (e-mail address removed): on a 1987 Caravan, the gas gauge kept creeping up to full. The problem was a small circuit board, part 4375318. Dean Seaman added the board is no longer used, but did dampen pointer movement. Some gauges used a thick liquid instead. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 74. Backfiring Ty Young reports that his 143,000 mile 1985 Caravan's backfiring (on sudden decelaration) was cured by using 89 octane gas instead of 87. (But was the timing OK?) -------------------------------------------- 75. 3.0 liter PREVENTION Drop the oil pan after 100,000 miles and clean the screen on the oil pick-up. Mine was choked down to an opening about the size of a dime. The oil seems to get charred in the head closest to the firewall and works its way down. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 78. CV boot replacement From: (e-mail address removed) (Old Mcgroin) replaced the CV boots on his 88 Daytona: "There is one bolt on each wheel you have to take off first. Remove each hub then the axles will just slide out of the tranny (along with the fliud so catch it in a pail) On each CV joint there is one snap ring holding everything together. Once inside the CV there are a few ball bearings and a cage, it all fits together very straightforward. This was my first time with no problems." -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 81. Rear defroster activated by brake lights Rivas Patrick writes that his 88 Shadow's rear defroster went on when he hit the brakes. The problem was that the wires going to the hatch from the roof had broken their insulation and were touching each other when the hatch was closed. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 84. Odd behavior when starting (e.g. wiper runs) With regard to funny electrical things (in this case, the rear window washer or rear wiper coming on) when starting a vehicle, or the vehicle acting like it has a low battery, Ken Bessler <(e-mail address removed)> advises: The problem is one of two things: your ignition timing (no - really!) is just a hair too far advanced or you battery is getting old. When ignition timing is too far advanced, the engine tries to fire before the piston gets all the way up. The piston tries to go the wrong way, fighting the starter and causing a big voltage drop across the whole van. This messes up the logic circuits. Listen to the way your engine cranks over before it fires. This sound should be fairly even and smooth. If not, back your timing up a bit. If your engine turns over smoothly, then your battery is suspect. -------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- 86. Fluid leaks (inside the car) Bob Meyer <robert_(e-mail address removed)> writes: If the fluid is antifreeze (green, sweet smell, hot), you may have a heater core leak (or loose hose connections). If the fluid is water, most likely the AC condensation tube is blocked (note: this refers to a Sundance/Shadow/Duster). When the AC runs on a humid day, a puddle of water should form underneath this drain if it is working correctly. Look on the firewall behind and below the power steering pump - you should find a rubber tube. Make sure that nothing is blocking the tip. If this doesn't help, you may have a bunch of leaves and junk inside blocking it. Some times you can back flush it with a garden hose or fish out the leaves with a wire. If the condensation drain is open and working, and you still have water on the floor, make sure the cowl drains are clear. The last thing would be to check the gasket that seals the blower fan (under and behind the glove box). If this is leaking, loosen the accessable lower screws, force a bit of strip caulk into the seal gap, and retighten. -------------------------------------------- |
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