08 civic warm up issues

>>
>
>
>
> He's in Canada. He needs to deal with Honda Canada, which is a separate
> company from American Honda. I've already told him this, plus reminded him
> that his car's under warranty.
>
>

Uhh, actually that was the original poster who's from Canada. I'm from
the Chicago area. Thanks though.

This morning, at -18 F when I left, I had no heat. I got two, then
three segments on the gauge. While waiting at a light I lost one and it
dropped to two. At -23 when I arrived at work about 20 minutes later,
the gauge had dropped back to a single element, which is what it shows
before the car is even started.

I had to keep a window partly down because my breath was fogging the
window and I had no defrost.

I called them today and they said they'd need to 'inspect the problem',
which they've done twice now. They said to bring it in. I asked what
they planned to do differently. No reply, but the guy mentioned that
'it might be weather related'.

Now, I'm sure I've heard a more obtuse comment in recent years, but from
my viewpoint here, that pretty much takes the cake. He wound up hanging
up on me.

If anyone has the # for American Honda, please post it.

Thanks.

Robert Barr > wrote in
:

>
>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> He's in Canada. He needs to deal with Honda Canada, which is a
>> separate company from American Honda. I've already told him this,
>> plus reminded him that his car's under warranty.
>>
>>
>
> Uhh, actually that was the original poster who's from Canada. I'm
> from the Chicago area. Thanks though.



Sorry. Mistaken identity.


>
> This morning, at -18 F when I left, I had no heat. I got two, then
> three segments on the gauge. While waiting at a light I lost one and
> it dropped to two. At -23 when I arrived at work about 20 minutes
> later, the gauge had dropped back to a single element, which is what
> it shows before the car is even started.



Man, and I thought we had it bad with the thermometer hovering around
zero F.

Even with all that, the engine ought to eventually reach normal
temperature in 15-20 minutes or so if the engine speed is kept
substantially above idle (as when you're driving), longer if you just
let it idle. But it WILL eventually warm up completely no matter what.
Provided the thermostat is working properly, that is.



>
> I had to keep a window partly down because my breath was fogging the
> window and I had no defrost.
>
> I called them today and they said they'd need to 'inspect the
> problem', which they've done twice now. They said to bring it in. I
> asked what they planned to do differently. No reply, but the guy
> mentioned that 'it might be weather related'.
>
> Now, I'm sure I've heard a more obtuse comment in recent years, but
> from my viewpoint here, that pretty much takes the cake. He wound up
> hanging up on me.



I don't see why this is so hard.

If proper combustion is occurring, it is frankly impossible
for the engine NOT to reach operating temperature if the thermostat
is working properly.

Combustion chamber temperatures hover around 2,000F. That heat has
to go /somewhere/. If the thermostat does not keep the heat
corralled inside the block until full op temp has been reached,
it will go out the rad.


>
> If anyone has the # for American Honda, please post
> it.



1-800-999-1009

http://automobiles.honda.com/informa...relations.aspx



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

>
>
> 1-800-999-1009
>
> http://automobiles.honda.com/informa...relations.aspx
>
>
>

Thanks. I took your & Elmo's advice & opened a complaint.

The diagnosis is obvious to everyone except the service managers;
there's only one possible cause that is 100% consistent with the symptoms.

I think the biggest problem is my choice of dealers; at least I have a
choice, though. I sympathize with folks in rural / distant areas where
there's only one dealer.

Robert Barr > wrote in
:

>
>
>>
>>
>> 1-800-999-1009
>>
>> http://automobiles.honda.com/informa...relations.aspx
>>
>>
>>
>
> Thanks. I took your & Elmo's advice & opened a complaint.
>
> The diagnosis is obvious to everyone except the service managers;
> there's only one possible cause that is 100% consistent with the
> symptoms.
>
> I think the biggest problem is my choice of dealers; at least I have a
> choice, though. I sympathize with folks in rural / distant areas
> where there's only one dealer.
>



Consider yourself lucky.

I correspond with a guy in Brunei (next to Malaysia). Apparently the Honda
franchisee there has only a single dealership for all of Brunei. Two
mechanics. Lots of waiting.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

"Robert Barr" > wrote in message
...
>
>
>>
>>
>> 1-800-999-1009
>>
>> http://automobiles.honda.com/informa...relations.aspx
>>
>>
>>
>
> Thanks. I took your & Elmo's advice & opened a complaint.
>
> The diagnosis is obvious to everyone except the service managers; there's
> only one possible cause that is 100% consistent with the symptoms.
>
> I think the biggest problem is my choice of dealers; at least I have a
> choice, though. I sympathize with folks in rural / distant areas where
> there's only one dealer.

Yeah, you're in the Chicago area. The easiest thing to do first is try
another dealer. Doesn't excuse yours, but it might get you fixed faster.
You can continue to complain anyway.


>

On Jan 16, 6:13*pm, Tegger > wrote:
> Robert Barr > wrote :
>
>
>
> >> He's in Canada. He needs to deal with Honda Canada, which is a
> >> separate company from American Honda. I've already told him this,
> >> plus reminded him that his car's under warranty.
>
> > Uhh, actually that was the original poster who's from Canada. *I'm
> > from the Chicago area. *Thanks though.
>
> Sorry. Mistaken identity.
>
>
>
> > This morning, at -18 F when I left, I had no heat. *I got two, then
> > three segments on the gauge. *While waiting at a light I lost one and
> > it dropped to two. *At -23 when I arrived at work about 20 minutes
> > later, the gauge had dropped back to a single element, which is what
> > it shows before the car is even started.
>
> Man, and I thought we had it bad with the thermometer hovering around
> zero F.
>
> Even with all that, the engine ought to eventually reach normal
> temperature in 15-20 minutes or so if the engine speed is kept
> substantially above idle (as when you're driving), longer if you just
> let it idle. But it WILL eventually warm up completely no matter what.
> Provided the thermostat is working properly, that is.
>
>
>
> > I had to keep a window partly down because my breath was fogging the
> > window and I had no defrost.
>
> > I called them today and they said they'd need to 'inspect the
> > problem', which they've done twice now. *They said to bring it in. *I
> > asked what they planned to do differently. *No reply, but the guy
> > mentioned that 'it might be weather related'.
>
> > Now, I'm sure I've heard a more obtuse comment in recent years, but
> > from my viewpoint here, that pretty much takes the cake. *He wound up
> > hanging up on me.
>
> I don't see why this is so hard.
>
> If proper combustion is occurring, it is frankly impossible
> for the engine NOT to reach operating temperature if the thermostat
> is working properly.
>
> Combustion chamber temperatures hover around 2,000F. That heat has
> to go /somewhere/. If the thermostat does not keep the heat
> corralled inside the block until full op temp has been reached,
> it will go out the rad.
>
>
>
> > If anyone has the # for American Honda, please post
> > it.
>
> 1-800-999-1009
>
> http://automobiles.honda.com/informa...relations.aspx
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/

i've had similar problems with my 92 civic. i'm on my third or fourth
thermostat at this point, lost track. with two different engines.

ironic because the radiator that came with the car was in some way
defective, the car had a tendency to get overly warm from day 1; i
stupidly assumed it was normal because the radiator is so small, and
just took it easy on hot days. learned differently when the radiator
finally clogged and i replaced it. before the head gasket gave out
from all the overheating. which was the excuse i needed to get the
b16. which has "underheated" ever since, just like the original d16
did after the new radiator got put in.

anyway it reminds me of my childhood when you had to cover the car
radiator with cardboard in the winter. and here i thought those days
were gone.

I just change my thermostat and I didn't see much improvement when the
weather is close to -30C. Anything to look for ?
> wrote in message
...
On Jan 14, 9:56 pm, loewent > wrote:
> -35C here this morning.
>
> My daily commute is about 35kms, mostly highway. I started the car
> and allowed it to run for about 5 minutes. The block heater was
> plugged in, so no excuses for being too cold. After the brief warmup,
> its about 100ft to the highway, then highway speeds.
>
> The temp gauge never moved the whole way to the city (20kms). I
> finally got it to go to about 1/4 by running in a lower gear at higher
> RPM, but it normally runs around 1/2. And when I came to red lights
> in the city, the temp gauge would go down to 0 within a minute.
>
> Called the dealer today, and just like every other problem I have
> (touchy brakes, rattles), 'its normal operation' and he recommended I
> don't run the heater fan at full blast. Problem is, at 1/2, the
> heater barely warms up the interior of the car. However, with the
> heater fan running slower, I was able to get the car to the normal
> spot on the gauge after about 25 minutes.
>
> We got this 2008 civic LX in January 2007. Never noticed any problems
> last winter, but it really was never this cold either. The car has
> 32000kms on it, 2 oil changes.
>
> I have checked the coolant level in the radiator and the resevoir, and
> both are perfectly fine. Entertained damming the radiator with
> cardboard, however, the outside surface of the rad is not accessible
> without removing one of the plastic shrouds on the bumper. At these
> temps, its not enjoyable to be outside working on this, and besides,
> the plastic clips would just break due to the temperature (already
> broke 1).
>
> I have seen some Civic hybrid forums talk about using pipe insulation
> from Home Depot to block the openings in the grill. I may try that
> yet, but I just have this feeling that something is wrong. I have
> owned many Hondas, and have never had a problem with the vehicle
> reaching operating temperature.
>
> Has anyone else experienced this problem? Anything I am missing here?
>
> Thanks
> Terry in Winnipeg

Hi live in Winnipeg too and my 2001 honda civic is doing exactly the
same thing. Please let me know if you find out what is causing this
to happen.

"Markov" > wrote in message
...
>I just change my thermostat and I didn't see much improvement when the
>weather is close to -30C. Anything to look for ?

What is the rating on your thermostat? That is - at what water temp will it
open? Common ratings are 185/195/205 degrees F (don't know what that would
be in Celsius). If you have the 185, the coolant will not provide enough
heat to warm the car at those temps. I have a 205 degree F in my 86 Civic
and it works well at temps ranging from 90F in the summer to -70F in the
winter....Just a thought>

DaveD

On Feb 1, 5:00*am, "Dave D" > wrote:
> "Markov" > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
> >I just change my thermostat and I didn't see much improvement when the
> >weather is close to -30C. Anything to look for ?
>
> What is the rating on your thermostat? That is - at what water temp will it
> open? Common ratings are 185/195/205 degrees F (don't know what that would
> be in Celsius). If you have the 185, the coolant will not provide enough
> heat to warm the car at those temps. I have a 205 degree F in my 86 Civic
> and it works well at temps ranging from 90F in the summer to -70F in the
> winter....Just a thought>
>
> DaveD

-70F? Where are you, Alaska?

"e.meyer" > wrote in message
...
On Feb 1, 5:00 am, "Dave D" > wrote:
> "Markov" > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
> >I just change my thermostat and I didn't see much improvement when the
> >weather is close to -30C. Anything to look for ?
>
> What is the rating on your thermostat? That is - at what water temp will
> it
> open? Common ratings are 185/195/205 degrees F (don't know what that would
> be in Celsius). If you have the 185, the coolant will not provide enough
> heat to warm the car at those temps. I have a 205 degree F in my 86 Civic
> and it works well at temps ranging from 90F in the summer to -70F in the
> winter....Just a thought>
>
> DaveD

-70F? Where are you, Alaska?

On the nose. North Pole Alaska to be precise.

DaveD