single barrel rochester carb with leak/59 chevy apache

i have an old chevy 235 i am trying to get running after many moons of
sitting.
i have a few problems with it still, one of them being the carb is
leaking out
of what seems to be where the piston is.
i got the truck started and it ran a bit till i found the leak.
i took the carb off and inspected it only to find all seems alright.
when i put it back on, it still leaked and now will not even start.
anyone have any suggestions?

Get the carb rebuilt.
> wrote in message
ups.com...
>i have an old chevy 235 i am trying to get running after many moons of
> sitting.
> i have a few problems with it still, one of them being the carb is
> leaking out
> of what seems to be where the piston is.
> i got the truck started and it ran a bit till i found the leak.
> i took the carb off and inspected it only to find all seems alright.
> when i put it back on, it still leaked and now will not even start.
> anyone have any suggestions?
>



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hey, i have the carb apart on the work bench,
and am reworking it with a rebuild kit.
looks like there is a problem with the "piston-power".
like perhaps the end of the skinny tube is kinda bent over.
is it a tube with a slot for a certain amount of fuel to flow against
the ball bearing in there?
well if anyone knows and can help i would appreciate the direction-
d

wrote in article
om>...
> hey, i have the carb apart on the work bench,
> and am reworking it with a rebuild kit.
> looks like there is a problem with the "piston-power".
> like perhaps the end of the skinny tube is kinda bent over.
> is it a tube with a slot for a certain amount of fuel to flow against
> the ball bearing in there?
> well if anyone knows and can help i would appreciate the direction-
> d
>
>

Geez!!

Wil you PLEASE stop using technical automotive trade jargon - "piston
power", "skinny tube" "kinda bent over", fuel flowing against ball
bearings, etc.

If you would only use plain English, it would be much more understandable
to those of us who do not have such a technical background......

ROFLMAO!

WTF are you talking about!!!!

I think another poster was on target when stating that you are in over your
head and that you should consider hiring someone to do the job.

" wrote:
>
> hey, i have the carb apart on the work bench,
> and am reworking it with a rebuild kit.
> looks like there is a problem with the "piston-power".
> like perhaps the end of the skinny tube is kinda bent over.
> is it a tube with a slot for a certain amount of fuel to flow against
> the ball bearing in there?
> well if anyone knows and can help i would appreciate the direction-
> d

The piston you are referring to is probably the accelerator pump.
although this carb may have a vacuum operated piston also. But your
reference to ball bearing (check valve) and slot makes it seem you are
referring to the accelerator pump. The purpose of this device is to give
an extra shot of fuel when you press down on the gas pedal. This means
it should be connected to the linkage that controls the throttle. When
you step on the gas the (leather or rubber?) piston will force fuel past
the check ball and into the throat of the carburetor. When the throttle
linkage returns the check ball prevents the piston from sucking air back
in so that a new shot of fuel fills the piston. The types of problems
you might see here is that the fuel passage could be clogged, or the
piston dried up (shriveled, cracked) or the linkage is not adjusted and
working properly in order to get the right amount of fuel shooting into
the airflow with each pump of the gas pedal.
A warmed up engine should idle and run fine even if the accelerator
pump isn't working. If it isn't working the engine will stumble or stall
when you try to accelerate and when starting cold it will be harder to
start. If the pump is working then pumping the gas pedal will help
start when cold and will tend to flood a hot engine.
Other problems you should be looking for a Is the float working
properly so that it maintains the correct fuel level in the carb bowl?
Are all fuel passages open? This is about as simple as a carb gets so
there is not a lot that can go wrong.

-jim

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jim thanks so much for your taking the time to explain how the
carbuerator works that totally helped me. i am having trouble with fuel
leaking out of the plunger again though.
i have rebuilt with carb kit and parts from a spare carb.
everything seemed to be fine, but was trying to adjust the idle and air

adjustment when it began leaking again.
any ideas of a cure for the carb leak?

jim wrote:
> " wrote:
> >
> > hey, i have the carb apart on the work bench,
> > and am reworking it with a rebuild kit.
> > looks like there is a problem with the "piston-power".
> > like perhaps the end of the skinny tube is kinda bent over.
> > is it a tube with a slot for a certain amount of fuel to flow against
> > the ball bearing in there?
> > well if anyone knows and can help i would appreciate the direction-
> > d
>
> The piston you are referring to is probably the accelerator pump.
> although this carb may have a vacuum operated piston also. But your
> reference to ball bearing (check valve) and slot makes it seem you are
> referring to the accelerator pump. The purpose of this device is to give
> an extra shot of fuel when you press down on the gas pedal. This means
> it should be connected to the linkage that controls the throttle. When
> you step on the gas the (leather or rubber?) piston will force fuel past
> the check ball and into the throat of the carburetor. When the throttle
> linkage returns the check ball prevents the piston from sucking air back
> in so that a new shot of fuel fills the piston. The types of problems
> you might see here is that the fuel passage could be clogged, or the
> piston dried up (shriveled, cracked) or the linkage is not adjusted and
> working properly in order to get the right amount of fuel shooting into
> the airflow with each pump of the gas pedal.
> A warmed up engine should idle and run fine even if the accelerator
> pump isn't working. If it isn't working the engine will stumble or stall
> when you try to accelerate and when starting cold it will be harder to
> start. If the pump is working then pumping the gas pedal will help
> start when cold and will tend to flood a hot engine.
> Other problems you should be looking for a Is the float working
> properly so that it maintains the correct fuel level in the carb bowl?
> Are all fuel passages open? This is about as simple as a carb gets so
> there is not a lot that can go wrong.
>
> -jim
>
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" wrote:
>
> jim thanks so much for your taking the time to explain how the
> carbuerator works that totally helped me. i am having trouble with fuel
> leaking out of the plunger again though.

I don't exactly understand what that means. The plunger is inside the
carb bowl and is immersed in gasoline.

What I'm guessing you mean is that it is leaking where the linkage
passes thru the cover (top of carb). That would not be a problem caused
by anything wrong with the accelerator pump. What is happening is your
float (float needle valve to be precise) is not doing its job and the
overflow is just coming out of wherever it can find an opening. You need
to fix what's wrong with the float. It could be dirt that is keeping the
needle from closing. It could be the needle (or seat) is worn or
corroded and has to be replaced. Or the float may have a hole and no
longer floats (if it is the hollow brass kind). Or it could be binding
at the rod that acts as a hinge so the float can pivot up and down
freely.
When its working properly the float should 'float' and thus shut off
the flow of fuel when it reaches a preset level in the float bowl (thus
no fuel will leak out the top). To bench test it you can invert the
carburetor (with no gas in it) and blow or suck into a rubber hose
connected to the fuel inlet. If you can blow thru there (when it's up
side down)) the float and needle valve are *not* functioning as they
should. Until you get it so that it will not pass air when inverted and
will when it is right side up there is no point in mounting it on the
engine as it will overflow gas from whatever openings that it can.

-jim

> i have rebuilt with carb kit and parts from a spare carb.
> everything seemed to be fine, but was trying to adjust the idle and air
>
> adjustment when it began leaking again.
> any ideas of a cure for the carb leak?
>
> jim wrote:
> > " wrote:
> > >
> > > hey, i have the carb apart on the work bench,
> > > and am reworking it with a rebuild kit.
> > > looks like there is a problem with the "piston-power".
> > > like perhaps the end of the skinny tube is kinda bent over.
> > > is it a tube with a slot for a certain amount of fuel to flow against
> > > the ball bearing in there?
> > > well if anyone knows and can help i would appreciate the direction-
> > > d
> >
> > The piston you are referring to is probably the accelerator pump.
> > although this carb may have a vacuum operated piston also. But your
> > reference to ball bearing (check valve) and slot makes it seem you are
> > referring to the accelerator pump. The purpose of this device is to give
> > an extra shot of fuel when you press down on the gas pedal. This means
> > it should be connected to the linkage that controls the throttle. When
> > you step on the gas the (leather or rubber?) piston will force fuel past
> > the check ball and into the throat of the carburetor. When the throttle
> > linkage returns the check ball prevents the piston from sucking air back
> > in so that a new shot of fuel fills the piston. The types of problems
> > you might see here is that the fuel passage could be clogged, or the
> > piston dried up (shriveled, cracked) or the linkage is not adjusted and
> > working properly in order to get the right amount of fuel shooting into
> > the airflow with each pump of the gas pedal.
> > A warmed up engine should idle and run fine even if the accelerator
> > pump isn't working. If it isn't working the engine will stumble or stall
> > when you try to accelerate and when starting cold it will be harder to
> > start. If the pump is working then pumping the gas pedal will help
> > start when cold and will tend to flood a hot engine.
> > Other problems you should be looking for a Is the float working
> > properly so that it maintains the correct fuel level in the carb bowl?
> > Are all fuel passages open? This is about as simple as a carb gets so
> > there is not a lot that can go wrong.
> >
> > -jim
> >
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> > http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
> > ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

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jim > wrote in article
>...
>
>
> " wrote:
> >
> > jim thanks so much for your taking the time to explain how the
> > carbuerator works that totally helped me. i am having trouble with fuel
> > leaking out of the plunger again though.
>
> I don't exactly understand what that means.

Nor does Red-eye!