Me again - new problem!

I really do not sit around trying to break my car.

1998 528i. 209000 miles. 5 speed.

Took a trip. The check engine light came on. 50 miles from the house
it started missing BADLY. Made it home. Peake tool says Camshaft
Sensor. I can only find 1 for this car. Replace. Light is out.
Drive car. Light comes on. Read it. Camshaft sensor. Clear code.
Drive car. Nothing. Go to crank car 3 days later. Check engine light.
Read it. Camshaft sensor.
Clear it. Crank car nothing.
Crank car again - Check engine Light.

Runs smoothly. Idles well. Can't imagine it's a bad sensor - runs
better than it did with the old one. Just can't get the @#$#@ light to
go out.

"ReddDawg" > wrote in message
...
> I really do not sit around trying to break my car.
>
> 1998 528i. 209000 miles. 5 speed.
>
> Took a trip. The check engine light came on. 50 miles from the house
> it started missing BADLY. Made it home. Peake tool says Camshaft
> Sensor. I can only find 1 for this car. Replace. Light is out.
> Drive car. Light comes on. Read it. Camshaft sensor. Clear code.
> Drive car. Nothing. Go to crank car 3 days later. Check engine light.
> Read it. Camshaft sensor.
> Clear it. Crank car nothing.
> Crank car again - Check engine Light.
>
> Runs smoothly. Idles well. Can't imagine it's a bad sensor - runs
> better than it did with the old one. Just can't get the @#$#@ light to
> go out.


If the light keeps coming on for the same thing, the sensor is bad. I get
that you just put one in, but if you got a Noname Brand sensor, odds are
it's junk.

I don't think it's possible to put the sensor in wrong.

ReddDawg > wrote:
> I really do not sit around trying to break my car.
>
>1998 528i. 209000 miles. 5 speed.
>
> Took a trip. The check engine light came on. 50 miles from the house
>it started missing BADLY. Made it home. Peake tool says Camshaft
>Sensor. I can only find 1 for this car. Replace. Light is out.
> Drive car. Light comes on. Read it. Camshaft sensor. Clear code.
>Drive car. Nothing. Go to crank car 3 days later. Check engine light.
>Read it. Camshaft sensor.
> Clear it. Crank car nothing.
> Crank car again - Check engine Light.
>
> Runs smoothly. Idles well. Can't imagine it's a bad sensor - runs
>better than it did with the old one. Just can't get the @#$#@ light to
>go out.

Now it's time to use a real scan tool and look at the waveform that the ECU
is seeing. Is it nice and clean or is it rounded? If it is nice and clean
have someone watch the screen while someone else goes around tugging on the
cables to see if they can cause a dropout. It doesn't take much of a bad
connection to cause a short dropout and it doesn't take much of a dropout
to set the error flag.

I'd clean and repack all the connections with dielectric grease too, but
maybe that's just me.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Those engineers who put the spec's out on making these electrical
devices and appliance ... usually make it so that a good clean source of
electric feed is DEMANDED.

No brown outs, no spikes, no dropoff or dropout of energy or it will not
work.

Ford's need all 6 cells on the battery to work their electrical system,
lose a cell ... and you just might get a click one morning for a start
up and other problems.

For your computer, fax machines, credit card devices, anything that is
plug in to the 110 volt system ... even that has to be CLEAN electricity.

For that ... the electric feed has to be 'conditioned'.

The ground wire is connected all the way through the plug chain from the
panel to the copper pipe in the ground.

Same for the white wire going to the white wire, and the black wire
going to the black wire.

There are $5 plug in testing tools you can buy at a hardware store that
you can plug into the wall socket and test the condition of the electric
feed and if you get ... say two orange lights on the test it is sorted
out properly.

This will make your puter, fax, banking commerce tools work more
consistently better.

They are made by the same engineers, with the same circuits that demand
that same good electric feed, then it runs well.

Bad plugs ... are bad plugs.

Sometimes it is just oxidization and cleaning them is all that is needed
as that is keeping the electrons from flowing ... it has grown a crust
of acid fluff.

Happens to telephone connections on the street ... you heard of acid
rain, acid fog, well acid fluff has to be clean off by the Telephone
people so you get good phone service.

It is more of a problem because of pollution and global warning then in
the past running into the demands of white man medicine.

sumbuddie wear blind sea

:?






> ReddDawg > wrote:
t.