My used car checklist - looking for some feedback

I'm putting together a comprehensive checklist when checking out a
used car.
(for myself and anyone else interested)
This is NOT a substitute for a mechanic looking over the vehicle.
Just a checklist to weed out cars with obvious issues.
I would love some feedback (suggested, refinements, changes,
additions).
Thanks

DRIVERS SEAT
test all driver's power seat controls
inspect windshield for rock chips
check condition of leather on steering wheel
check condition of headliner
verify driving position
verify seat comfort
check front & rear visibility (blind spots)
open & close all windows
open & close moonroof
test power door locks
try all power mirror controls
try wipers - all settings
idle engine noise (when cold)
check navigation system
Audio System:
check CD player
turn up volume on radio
check FM tuner (does it pull in stations)
does power antenna make excessive noise when going up or down?
HVAC
check all HVAC fan speeds (check for unusually noise)
check AC blows cold air
check Heater blows hot air
switch HVAC to different vent configurations with blower running
INSIDE CAR
passenger seat position & comfort when fully reclined (VERY IMPORTANT
- road trip)
test all passenger power seat controls
check leather for rips, stains, wear, cracks
inspect interior plastics for scratches, stains, wear, damage, flaws
inspect carpets for water damage, stains, tears (front & back seat)
inspect cloth seats for stains, wear, damage, odors
inspect windows & windshield (they should all have matching stamp)
fold down rear seat
OUTSIDE CAR (SOMEONE ELSE IN DRIVERS SEAT)
verify interior trunk release
verify gas-door release
check power antenna when fully extended (does it go up all the way, is
it bent?)
check headlights & brights
check hazard lights
check turn signals
check brake lights (including 3rd brake light)
check tail lights
OUTSIDE CAR
verify that the car has the optional equipment from the ad
make sure front license plate is installed
inspect headlights: one clear and another foggy? (could be sign of
accident)
look for dealer decal (ask if they can remove it)
verify key fob functions: lock/unlock, alarm, trunk, remote start?
compare VIN#s for consistency: door jamb, dashboard-windshield
conduit, engine firewall
under hood
test alarm functions
inspect tires
check for consistency (brand/model) with all 4-tires
check depth with gauge (note remaining tire life)
big difference in wear between front & rear (weren't rotated
regularly)
look for rubber rotting
check wear patterns
excess wear in center of tread - over-inflation
excess wear on outer parts of tread- usually means under-inflation
feathering - each rib develops a sharp edge on one side and
rounded edge on other
usually can be felt before seen - incorrect toe or possibly
deteriorated bushings
one side of tire wear - alignment needed or suspension problems
cupping on one side - worn suspension components
BODY INSPECTION
**paint**
inspect paint for stains, scratches, scrapes, bubbles, chips
look down each side of car and check for wavy paint (sign of
repainting)
look for overspray in door jambs
look for overspray in wheel wells
inspect heads of bolts on door mounts (missing paint indicates
accident)
**sheet metal**
inspect sheet metal for dings & dents
inspect gaps in body panels (doesn't necessarily indicate accident)
inspect for rust
inspect sheet metal for signs of accidents
use magnet in suspected areas
use knuckles to knock on the metal (check for dull or metallic sound)
check for body filler (vehicle was in an accident)
look for waves/dips/lumps in paint
TRUNK
trunk volume and shape sufficient?
can hinges crush luggage or impact volume?
condition of trunk carpeting & liner
check condition of spare tire
inspect trunk lid bolts (missing paint or noticeable moved hinged
indicates accident)
UNDER HOOD
check for signs of fluid spray on the inside surface of the hood
wipe oil from dipstick on tissue
if oil is black or dirty - oil is old or vehicle was driven hard
look for engine and other aftermarket modifications
remove the cap where you add engine oil:
leave if milky
use flashlight to note the condition of the inside of the engine.
A well oiled machine will look clean and not have a "burned on" look.
inspect where hood mounts to hinges (missing paint or noticeable moved
hinged indicates accident)
inspect paint in engine compartment for mismatch (indicates
repainting)
TEST DRIVE
Arround town
traffic light acceleration
transmission shifting quality
ride quality - around town
hill climbing power (if practical to test)
routine braking
emergency braking
any rattles or squeaks?
Freeway
entry acceleration
engine noise quality (freeway entry acceleration)
passing acceleration (does auto transmission downshift quickly and
smoothly?)
ride quality - on the freeway
test cruise control (does it hold desired speed)
cornering (check on highway exit ramp)
DOCUMENTATION (when confident about purchase)
verify owner's manual

review California title:
match VIN# listed on the title with the number on the car
in the upper right corner of the title, are any of the following
"brands" listed?
Salvaged, Taxi, Police, Non-USA, Warranty Return, Remanufactured
make sure it has the signature of lien holder if listed
if the vehicle is, or was financed, the lien holder’s name appears in
the legal owner section and their release with
counter signature is required on line two.

review California smog certificate (not required if vehicle is less
than 4-years old)
make sure vehicle smog date was within the past 90-days and that there
is enough of a grace period until
I have time to visit the DMV
check how close measurements are to the legal limits
(measurements close to legal limits could make it difficult to pass
smog in 2-years)

review maintenance records (verify maintenance interval inspections
and oil change intervals)

It's a good list. A couple things ...

If you can, drive one or two other examples of the same car so you can
get a feel for how they feel. Maybe they all feel "funny" in a
certain way and you just need to decide that it's something that's OK
for you or not. Also it lets you get an idea of how they should
sound, ride, start, brake, etc and you will be able to tell if the one
your interested in differs from the others in a bad way.

If it has brand new tires that can be good or it can mean they old
ones were worn very unevenly and they didn't want you to see them. I'd
rather buy a car with the old, matched, evenly worn tires on it and
pay a couple hundred less and just buy the new ones myself. Also, if
all four tires don't match that's a bad sign on a fairly new or higher
priced used car. Almost everyone buys tires four at a time except
cheapskates. If they are buying tires just in pairs it might mean
they don't like to spend money on oil changes or other maintenance
either. Not a deal killer but something to ask them about and see
what they say.

Some of what you listed is really more detailed then makes sense for a
used car and could be listed as a subcategory of "does the wear look
appropriate for it's claimed mileage and type of use". Chips on the
windshield for example, half the cars in Phx have rock chips.

Not sure why you focused on the FM tuner for the radio. basically
it's just "does the radio/CD work on all functions".

One over-riding thing - Drive the car and ask yourself, do I like this
car, how it feels, steers, etc, etc. If ANYTHING about it just
doesn't seem right be very wary of buying it. Even if it's normal for
that model you may never be happy with it. And it might be that it's
not normal for that model. That's a good time to go find another one
like it for sale and drive it and compare.

In regard to accident issues. Lots of cars are in accidents and they
are repaired properly and are just fine. The older and cheaper the
used car the more you need to weight the accident issue. Are you
looking for a good cheap car or are you looking till you find the one
that's perfect even if you have to pay more. For a 1 year old car I
would not want one that had been in an accident unless it was a LOT
cheaper then other ones and had been properly fixed but it would have
to be a LOT cheaper, when they are that new it should be easy to find
an unmolested one.

Another accident related item is to have someone else drive it while
you follow behind to see if it's tracking straight. If it's been in a
bad accident and not repaired properly the rear wheels may no longer
be following the front wheels and it will go down the road crooked.
This is pretty rare.


On Sat, 17 Oct 2009 21:00:33 -0700 (PDT), techman41973
> wrote:

>I'm putting together a comprehensive checklist when checking out a
>used car.
>(for myself and anyone else interested)
>This is NOT a substitute for a mechanic looking over the vehicle.
>Just a checklist to weed out cars with obvious issues.
>I would love some feedback (suggested, refinements, changes,
>additions).
>Thanks
>
>DRIVERS SEAT
>test all driver's power seat controls
>inspect windshield for rock chips
>check condition of leather on steering wheel
>check condition of headliner
>verify driving position
>verify seat comfort
>check front & rear visibility (blind spots)
>open & close all windows
>open & close moonroof
>test power door locks
>try all power mirror controls
>try wipers - all settings
>idle engine noise (when cold)
>check navigation system
>Audio System:
>check CD player
>turn up volume on radio
>check FM tuner (does it pull in stations)
>does power antenna make excessive noise when going up or down?
>HVAC
>check all HVAC fan speeds (check for unusually noise)
>check AC blows cold air
>check Heater blows hot air
>switch HVAC to different vent configurations with blower running
>INSIDE CAR
>passenger seat position & comfort when fully reclined (VERY IMPORTANT
>- road trip)
>test all passenger power seat controls
>check leather for rips, stains, wear, cracks
>inspect interior plastics for scratches, stains, wear, damage, flaws
>inspect carpets for water damage, stains, tears (front & back seat)
>inspect cloth seats for stains, wear, damage, odors
>inspect windows & windshield (they should all have matching stamp)
>fold down rear seat
>OUTSIDE CAR (SOMEONE ELSE IN DRIVERS SEAT)
>verify interior trunk release
>verify gas-door release
>check power antenna when fully extended (does it go up all the way, is
>it bent?)
>check headlights & brights
>check hazard lights
>check turn signals
>check brake lights (including 3rd brake light)
>check tail lights
>OUTSIDE CAR
>verify that the car has the optional equipment from the ad
>make sure front license plate is installed
>inspect headlights: one clear and another foggy? (could be sign of
>accident)
>look for dealer decal (ask if they can remove it)
>verify key fob functions: lock/unlock, alarm, trunk, remote start?
>compare VIN#s for consistency: door jamb, dashboard-windshield
>conduit, engine firewall
> under hood
>test alarm functions
>inspect tires
> check for consistency (brand/model) with all 4-tires
> check depth with gauge (note remaining tire life)
> big difference in wear between front & rear (weren't rotated
>regularly)
> look for rubber rotting
> check wear patterns
> excess wear in center of tread - over-inflation
> excess wear on outer parts of tread- usually means under-inflation
> feathering - each rib develops a sharp edge on one side and
>rounded edge on other
> usually can be felt before seen - incorrect toe or possibly
>deteriorated bushings
> one side of tire wear - alignment needed or suspension problems
> cupping on one side - worn suspension components
>BODY INSPECTION
>**paint**
>inspect paint for stains, scratches, scrapes, bubbles, chips
>look down each side of car and check for wavy paint (sign of
>repainting)
>look for overspray in door jambs
>look for overspray in wheel wells
>inspect heads of bolts on door mounts (missing paint indicates
>accident)
>**sheet metal**
>inspect sheet metal for dings & dents
>inspect gaps in body panels (doesn't necessarily indicate accident)
>inspect for rust
>inspect sheet metal for signs of accidents
>use magnet in suspected areas
>use knuckles to knock on the metal (check for dull or metallic sound)
>check for body filler (vehicle was in an accident)
>look for waves/dips/lumps in paint
>TRUNK
>trunk volume and shape sufficient?
>can hinges crush luggage or impact volume?
>condition of trunk carpeting & liner
>check condition of spare tire
>inspect trunk lid bolts (missing paint or noticeable moved hinged
>indicates accident)
>UNDER HOOD
>check for signs of fluid spray on the inside surface of the hood
>wipe oil from dipstick on tissue
>if oil is black or dirty - oil is old or vehicle was driven hard
>look for engine and other aftermarket modifications
>remove the cap where you add engine oil:
>leave if milky
>use flashlight to note the condition of the inside of the engine.
>A well oiled machine will look clean and not have a "burned on" look.
>inspect where hood mounts to hinges (missing paint or noticeable moved
>hinged indicates accident)
>inspect paint in engine compartment for mismatch (indicates
>repainting)
>TEST DRIVE
>Arround town
>traffic light acceleration
>transmission shifting quality
>ride quality - around town
>hill climbing power (if practical to test)
>routine braking
>emergency braking
>any rattles or squeaks?
>Freeway
>entry acceleration
>engine noise quality (freeway entry acceleration)
>passing acceleration (does auto transmission downshift quickly and
>smoothly?)
>ride quality - on the freeway
>test cruise control (does it hold desired speed)
>cornering (check on highway exit ramp)
>DOCUMENTATION (when confident about purchase)
>verify owner's manual
>
>review California title:
>match VIN# listed on the title with the number on the car
>in the upper right corner of the title, are any of the following
>"brands" listed?
>Salvaged, Taxi, Police, Non-USA, Warranty Return, Remanufactured
>make sure it has the signature of lien holder if listed
>if the vehicle is, or was financed, the lien holder’s name appears in
>the legal owner section and their release with
>counter signature is required on line two.
>
>review California smog certificate (not required if vehicle is less
>than 4-years old)
>make sure vehicle smog date was within the past 90-days and that there
>is enough of a grace period until
>I have time to visit the DMV
>check how close measurements are to the legal limits
>(measurements close to legal limits could make it difficult to pass
>smog in 2-years)
>
>review maintenance records (verify maintenance interval inspections
>and oil change intervals)
>