Tranny problems? Woman, help appreciated

If it didn't move and the brakes didn't lock, this whine noise sounds like
the rear end or trans. At minimum I would pull the trans pan and check for
"stuff" in the screen and pan, this noise and clunk could also be the rear
differental, or even the transfer case. Some one is going to have to spend
some time to thoroughly diagnose this, leaks in the diff. will not cause
this.
"Stacey" > wrote in message
...
> Hello,
>
> Hello,
>
> I have a '91 SR5 4x4 with 152k miles on it. I got it 2 years ago. It's
> been impeccably kept it's entire life. (Great shape and receipt
> history etc.)
>
> A few weeks ago I was driving along at ~40mph and a loud whine kicked
> in in the rear end. Sounded like it was coming from under the center
> of the bed. I immediately thought "the rear end is going". The sound
> increased in intensity and pitch if speed increased, and decreased in
> both as speed decreased. At a stop there was no sound. It continued
> until I got home, just over a mile. When I put it in reverse to park
> at the house, it made a lower-pitched whine. The next morning (and
> ever since) it has made no noise at all.
>
> Then, last night I was coming to a stop at a signal, and just as I
> stopped I heard a "clunk" as if from the tranny. (This is an
> automatic.) I let my foot off the break to make sure everything was
> working, but the truck did not roll forward. I gave it a little gas,
> but it was like it had dropped into neutral. I shifted to neutral,
> then back to drive. Nothing. To 2nd gear. Nothing. Finally, back in
> drive I gave it more gas and it finally caught and took off. It drove
> fine all the way home. And this morning it drove fine to the
> mechanics. (It seems to shift smoothly with no problems.)
>
> The mechanic said the rear fluid was leaking into the back rear brake
> (boot?) and so that brake was not working, and that to replace the
> seal the bearings needed to be replaced b/c the way it's designed you
> can't remove the seal w/o damaging the bearings. So he was going to do
> both rear wheels -- bearings and seals. He said only about 4 oz of oil
> had leaked from the "differential" <did I remember that right?> so it
> isn't *likely* that was the cause of the whine, but it could have
> been. Opinions on this?
>
> This is going to run $700 and that's not even addressing the tranny
> problem. He said he couldn't diagnose that b/c it was working fine and
> I have to drive it until it screws up again, then drive it to a tranny
> place without turning the key off so they can read any idiot lights on
> the panel... but I didn't notice that any turned on.
>
> Anyone know what rebuilt tranny costs for these? It has 33" tires and
> was re-geared by a previous owner. They did a good job. (He never got
> less than quality work.) Don't know if that's important to know or
> not. Should I flush the tranny fluid to check for particles? I'm at a
> loss.
>
> Thanks so much.
> Stacey




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I can't answer your questions, but I do know you've just set the woman's
movement back 40 years.

Why would you put something like that in your header??

*Catch you on the flipside*
You probably shouldn't claim to be perfect in every way unless you
really are.

I can't answer your questions, but I do know you've just set the woman's
movement back 40 years.

Why would you put something like that in your header??

*Catch you on the flipside*
You probably shouldn't claim to be perfect in every way unless you
really are.

in rec.autos.4x4,
Stacey ) wrote:
>Eugene > kindly wrote:
>
>> Differentials don't break often and are not nearly as complex as a
>> transmission. I'd go to the junk yard and find a low milage wrecked truck
>> or car with the same differential and swap it.
>
>Thanks, but it was regeared (by a previous owner) due to the larger
>tires that were put on it, so I don't think a swap will do me any
>good.

A thought.... It is possible that the problem was the diff all the way
along, have you pulled out the 3rd member yet and see what the ring and
pinion in the diff look like? That should be your first step. Chances
are good that if when it was put in, and it was setup wrong, something as
bad
as a tooth could have broken and gotten stuck in the gears. That would
have definatly caused you not to move, but with enough preasure could have
broken it, causing you to go forward.
I had this happen to a friend of mine. Something to look at, get the rear
end fixed up first, chances are you are looking at bearings and a new
ring/pinion at least, a rear end from a junk yard, and get the correct
grears installed by a profesional, goto a reputable transmission shop, not
your every-day mechanic. It's possible that there have been metal flakes
in there for a while, that is what could have caused your seals to wear
out.

~Brian

I might add that you should get at lest one more quote - that $2400
price sounds a tad steep for a rear end re-build, even it it's totaled
except for the housing.

On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 23:22:27 UTC > wrote:

> in rec.autos.4x4,
> Stacey ) wrote:
> >Eugene > kindly wrote:
> >
> >> Differentials don't break often and are not nearly as complex as a
> >> transmission. I'd go to the junk yard and find a low milage wrecked truck
> >> or car with the same differential and swap it.
> >
> >Thanks, but it was regeared (by a previous owner) due to the larger
> >tires that were put on it, so I don't think a swap will do me any
> >good.
>
> A thought.... It is possible that the problem was the diff all the way
> along, have you pulled out the 3rd member yet and see what the ring and
> pinion in the diff look like? That should be your first step. Chances
> are good that if when it was put in, and it was setup wrong, something as
> bad
> as a tooth could have broken and gotten stuck in the gears. That would
> have definatly caused you not to move, but with enough preasure could have
> broken it, causing you to go forward.
> I had this happen to a friend of mine. Something to look at, get the rear
> end fixed up first, chances are you are looking at bearings and a new
> ring/pinion at least, a rear end from a junk yard, and get the correct
> grears installed by a profesional, goto a reputable transmission shop, not
> your every-day mechanic. It's possible that there have been metal flakes
> in there for a while, that is what could have caused your seals to wear
> out.
>
> ~Brian


--
Will Honea >

I might add that you should get at lest one more quote - that $2400
price sounds a tad steep for a rear end re-build, even it it's totaled
except for the housing.

On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 23:22:27 UTC > wrote:

> in rec.autos.4x4,
> Stacey ) wrote:
> >Eugene > kindly wrote:
> >
> >> Differentials don't break often and are not nearly as complex as a
> >> transmission. I'd go to the junk yard and find a low milage wrecked truck
> >> or car with the same differential and swap it.
> >
> >Thanks, but it was regeared (by a previous owner) due to the larger
> >tires that were put on it, so I don't think a swap will do me any
> >good.
>
> A thought.... It is possible that the problem was the diff all the way
> along, have you pulled out the 3rd member yet and see what the ring and
> pinion in the diff look like? That should be your first step. Chances
> are good that if when it was put in, and it was setup wrong, something as
> bad
> as a tooth could have broken and gotten stuck in the gears. That would
> have definatly caused you not to move, but with enough preasure could have
> broken it, causing you to go forward.
> I had this happen to a friend of mine. Something to look at, get the rear
> end fixed up first, chances are you are looking at bearings and a new
> ring/pinion at least, a rear end from a junk yard, and get the correct
> grears installed by a profesional, goto a reputable transmission shop, not
> your every-day mechanic. It's possible that there have been metal flakes
> in there for a while, that is what could have caused your seals to wear
> out.
>
> ~Brian


--
Will Honea >

in rec.autos.4x4,
Stacey ) wrote:
>Eugene > kindly wrote:
>
>> Differentials don't break often and are not nearly as complex as a
>> transmission. I'd go to the junk yard and find a low milage wrecked truck
>> or car with the same differential and swap it.
>
>Thanks, but it was regeared (by a previous owner) due to the larger
>tires that were put on it, so I don't think a swap will do me any
>good.

A thought.... It is possible that the problem was the diff all the way
along, have you pulled out the 3rd member yet and see what the ring and
pinion in the diff look like? That should be your first step. Chances
are good that if when it was put in, and it was setup wrong, something as
bad
as a tooth could have broken and gotten stuck in the gears. That would
have definatly caused you not to move, but with enough preasure could have
broken it, causing you to go forward.
I had this happen to a friend of mine. Something to look at, get the rear
end fixed up first, chances are you are looking at bearings and a new
ring/pinion at least, a rear end from a junk yard, and get the correct
grears installed by a profesional, goto a reputable transmission shop, not
your every-day mechanic. It's possible that there have been metal flakes
in there for a while, that is what could have caused your seals to wear
out.

~Brian

in rec.autos.4x4,
Stacey ) wrote:
>Thank you Ron. From what I understand newer cars (and even some 91's I
>guess) have an access panel on the diff so you don't have to pull it
>to check the conditiion. Now why couldn't my truck be designed like
>that? IAC it's already outa the shop and in the driveway, so my

IMHO, the toyota diff design is one of the best for easy changes. No, it
does not have a cover for easy inspectio, but the whole third member comes
out, this allows for fast swaps of gears if you have more then one third
member. All you have to do is slide the axels out a bit, take the drive
shaft off, and take the bolts out. A really easy process if you have done
it before. One guy I know has one that is welded for off-roading, and one
that is open like normal, he has the change down to about 20 min including
drain and re-fill of oil.

Plus, if you ever have to take it out and work on it, it's so nice to put
it on the bench and do the work there, then fighting with it under the
truck.

Good luck!

~Brian

in rec.autos.4x4,
Stacey ) wrote:
>Thank you Ron. From what I understand newer cars (and even some 91's I
>guess) have an access panel on the diff so you don't have to pull it
>to check the conditiion. Now why couldn't my truck be designed like
>that? IAC it's already outa the shop and in the driveway, so my

IMHO, the toyota diff design is one of the best for easy changes. No, it
does not have a cover for easy inspectio, but the whole third member comes
out, this allows for fast swaps of gears if you have more then one third
member. All you have to do is slide the axels out a bit, take the drive
shaft off, and take the bolts out. A really easy process if you have done
it before. One guy I know has one that is welded for off-roading, and one
that is open like normal, he has the change down to about 20 min including
drain and re-fill of oil.

Plus, if you ever have to take it out and work on it, it's so nice to put
it on the bench and do the work there, then fighting with it under the
truck.

Good luck!

~Brian

Hello Stacey,

I had the exact thing happen with my Dodge Neon, but it got worse within a
few weeks. It was the transmission and it cost me $2,000 to replace it.With
the mileage you have on yours, you may want to cut your loses and scrap it
or sell it as is.
Al

> Hello,
>
> I have a '91 SR5 4x4 with 152k miles on it. I got it 2 years ago. It's
> been impeccably kept it's entire life. (Great shape and receipt
> history etc.)
>
> A few weeks ago I was driving along at ~40mph and a loud whine kicked
> in in the rear end. Sounded like it was coming from under the center
> of the bed. I immediately thought "the rear end is going". The sound
> increased in intensity and pitch if speed increased, and decreased in
> both as speed decreased. At a stop there was no sound. It continued
> until I got home, just over a mile. When I put it in reverse to park
> at the house, it made a lower-pitched whine. The next morning (and
> ever since) it has made no noise at all.
>
> Then, last night I was coming to a stop at a signal, and just as I
> stopped I heard a "clunk" as if from the tranny. (This is an
> automatic.) I let my foot off the break to make sure everything was
> working, but the truck did not roll forward. I gave it a little gas,
> but it was like it had dropped into neutral. I shifted to neutral,
> then back to drive. Nothing. To 2nd gear. Nothing. Finally, back in
> drive I gave it more gas and it finally caught and took off. It drove
> fine all the way home. And this morning it drove fine to the
> mechanics. (It seems to shift smoothly with no problems.)
>
> The mechanic said the rear fluid was leaking into the back rear brake
> (boot?) and so that brake was not working, and that to replace the
> seal the bearings needed to be replaced b/c the way it's designed you
> can't remove the seal w/o damaging the bearings. So he was going to do
> both rear wheels -- bearings and seals. He said only about 4 oz of oil
> had leaked from the "differential" <did I remember that right?> so it
> isn't *likely* that was the cause of the whine, but it could have
> been. Opinions on this?
>
> This is going to run $700 and that's not even addressing the tranny
> problem. He said he couldn't diagnose that b/c it was working fine and
> I have to drive it until it screws up again, then drive it to a tranny
> place without turning the key off so they can read any idiot lights on
> the panel... but I didn't notice that any turned on.
>
> Anyone know what rebuilt tranny costs for these? It has 33" tires and
> was re-geared by a previous owner. They did a good job. (He never got
> less than quality work.) Don't know if that's important to know or
> not. Should I flush the tranny fluid to check for particles? I'm at a
> loss.
>
> Thanks so much.
> Stacey