Chevy Blazer Broken/Stuck Bulb in Rear Right Tail Light

The rear right (passenger side) brake light & turn signal were not working
on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer. When I went to replace the applicable 2057 bulb
(dual filiment) in the tail lamp, the old bulb just broke right
off....apparently it was corroded/stuck inside the socket. I tried to remove
the remainder of the bulb (with pliers, flat screwdriver, etc.) but it would
not budge, it just gets bent up. I assume I'm gonna have to replace the
whole 2057 socket? Can this be done without replacing the entire
cable/wiring to the rear right tail light?

"Spiderman"> wrote
> The rear right (passenger side) brake light & turn signal were not working
> on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer. When I went to replace the applicable 2057
> bulb (dual filiment) in the tail lamp, the old bulb just broke right
> off....apparently it was corroded/stuck inside the socket. I tried to
> remove the remainder of the bulb (with pliers, flat screwdriver, etc.) but
> it would not budge, it just gets bent up. I assume I'm gonna have to
> replace the whole 2057 socket? Can this be done without replacing the
> entire cable/wiring to the rear right tail light?

Use a pair of needle nose pliers, or dikes, and tear the base of the bulb
out of the socket piece by piece.
Sometimes you can twist the base back out of the socket with the pliers.

"Spiderman"wrote in message: "The rear right (passenger side) brake light &
turn signal were not working on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer. When I went to
replace the applicable 2057 bulb (dual filiment) in the tail lamp, the old
bulb just broke right off....apparently it was corroded/stuck inside the
socket. I tried to remove the remainder of the bulb (with pliers, flat
screwdriver, etc.) but it would not budge, it just gets bent up. I assume
I'm gonna have to replace the
whole 2057 socket? Can this be done without replacing the entire
cable/wiring to the rear right tail light?"

I had a similar problem with a 2000 C2500 tail lamp. The socket was
replaceable. I was able to get it at NAPA auto [arts cheaper then the
dealership. I tried just changing the bulb after removing the corrode bulb
but it would not work properly. It would go on and off with every bump I
hit in the road. I think the lamp assembly cost around 32.00 dollars.


Sarge

"Sarge" > wrote in message
...
> "Spiderman"wrote in message: "The rear right (passenger side) brake light
> &
> turn signal were not working on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer. When I went to
> replace the applicable 2057 bulb (dual filiment) in the tail lamp, the old
> bulb just broke right off....apparently it was corroded/stuck inside the
> socket. I tried to remove the remainder of the bulb (with pliers, flat
> screwdriver, etc.) but it would not budge, it just gets bent up. I assume
> I'm gonna have to replace the
> whole 2057 socket? Can this be done without replacing the entire
> cable/wiring to the rear right tail light?"
>
> I had a similar problem with a 2000 C2500 tail lamp. The socket was
> replaceable. I was able to get it at NAPA auto [arts cheaper then the
> dealership. I tried just changing the bulb after removing the corrode
> bulb
> but it would not work properly. It would go on and off with every bump I
> hit in the road. I think the lamp assembly cost around 32.00 dollars.
>
>
> Sarge

Does the socket just pop off of the wiring? I pulled back one of the corners
and there appeared to be a "peanut buttery" grease smeared all over the
inside so I left it alone. I assume this goo is to keep out water/air
(didn't seem to help in this case hehe).... Did you replace the goo or
just stick the socket right back on to the existing goo? $32 sounds like a
lot for just a socket?
>

Won't hurt. Won't cause long term damage. Might help...

If the socket is in good condition, you can clean it up and should be
OK. As suggested by others, use contact grease in the socket to help
prevent this from happening again. Fix the leak! <g> Get a new gasket
from the dealer if necessary.

On Sat, 27 Nov 2004 03:42:41 -0500, "Spiderman"
> wrote:

>
>Would spraying in some WD40 first help to loosen up the stuck shards or just
>make a bigger mess?

"Spiderman" wrote in message: "Does the socket just pop off of the wiring? I
pulled back one of the corners
and there appeared to be a "peanut buttery" grease smeared all over the
inside so I left it alone. I assume this goo is to keep out water/air
(didn't seem to help in this case hehe).... Did you replace the goo or
just stick the socket right back on to the existing goo? $32 sounds like a
lot for just a socket?"

On my truck the wiring harness plugged into a plastic housing. The housing
contained the socket. The lens and lens gasket can also be purchased. I am
not sure if that is the same design as a 2000 Chevy C2500.

Sarge

"Sarge" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Spiderman" wrote in message: "Does the socket just pop off of the wiring?
I
> pulled back one of the corners
> and there appeared to be a "peanut buttery" grease smeared all over the
> inside so I left it alone. I assume this goo is to keep out water/air
> (didn't seem to help in this case hehe).... Did you replace the goo or
> just stick the socket right back on to the existing goo? $32 sounds like a
> lot for just a socket?"
>
> On my truck the wiring harness plugged into a plastic housing. The
housing
> contained the socket. The lens and lens gasket can also be purchased. I
am
> not sure if that is the same design as a 2000 Chevy C2500.
>
> Sarge

His '87 uses a socket that plugs into the housing assembly. NAPA, AutoZone
most all parts store will have replacement sockets usually under $5 but they
all require three splices, you have to cut the wires going to the old one.
The best way is to slide shrink tubing up the wire, then solder the splice
and then slide the shrink tubing down over the repair after it cools and
heat shrink it. Repeat on the remaining wires. AutoZone had some supposed
weather proof crimp style splice connectors last time I was in, but I have
never used them.
And yes pack the socket full of dielectric grease before inserting the bulb.
More than likely the housing has a crack in it and that's how water is
getting in.
Whitelightning

Yes, it is a safety feature, done intentionally for just that reason.

Good to hear you got it out. You might be able to make a better fix
than duct tape by using JB Weld. It lives up to the promises quite
well! <g>

On Sat, 27 Nov 2004 20:26:22 -0500, "Spiderman"
> wrote:

>
>"Don" > wrote in message
> (safety feature to blow out the dash when tail lights fail?)..

I've got a Samurai with the same problem. It's kinda funny though- one of my
turn signals quit working a while ago, so I took off the light cover, only
to discover grass growing in the turn-signal. I think I spent too much time
stuck in the mud. I hate to think what other parts of the Sammy could have
mud and grass in them....

-Will

Any chance that what you thought was grass was really rice shoots? :-)


"Will" > wrote in message
...
> I've got a Samurai with the same problem. It's kinda funny though- one of
my
> turn signals quit working a while ago, so I took off the light cover, only
> to discover grass growing in the turn-signal. I think I spent too much
time
> stuck in the mud. I hate to think what other parts of the Sammy could have
> mud and grass in them....
>
> -Will
>
>