NetMax
August 30th 03, 04:28 PM
"Dave S" > wrote in message
...
> Is there such thing as a gadget to gradually switch off strip lights in
an
> aquarium?
>
> TIA - Dave
> --
> www.aegis.uk.com
If your strip light is a fluorescent tube, then not really. There is a
patent on a dimmer for these lights, but AFAIK, it's only application so
far has been for large commercial installations, and they typically run
at higher voltages ie: 347Vac. It might reach a consumer product
eventually, though it might be more practical to re-deign the ballast in
the future to better accommodate a dimmer function.
I suggest you use a timer to have your lights go on after the tank is
bathed in indirect sunlight, and off when you still have enough ambient
light to let the fish wind down. Another option is to use 2 timers, so a
2nd smaller light is always going on first (preceding the fluorescent
strip) and again in the evening, to transition the fish from very bright
light, to a dim light, signalling the onset of nightfall. I use this
set-up on all my tanks (it contributes to a low stress environment, which
IMO results in healthier fish). The analog timers (with the dial) are
sufficient, but if you're in an area prone to power failures, I suggest
you use the digital models with a battery backup. Use 2 timers of the
same model, as it simplifies their tracking each other.
++++ some technical stuff
Take a look at your light strip's power cord connector (2 pin or 3 pin).
Keep this in mind when shopping for timers. It's not my intention to
give any electrical advice, due to the variety of circuits
internationally, but in some cases, you might encounter the following:
Your light strip might have 3 wires, and your timer only has 2 in their
connector. This means that the timer will not accommodate the safety
ground. Leaving the safety ground wire unconnected is IMO a bad idea as
we are working with a mix of electrical devices & water, and the light
might also fail to operate properly, humming, flickering etc. ymmv Try
to locate timers which match your power cord.
Many light strips are wired on installation, and there are 2 wires from
the ballast and a green chassis ground screw. On these, when I have
groundless (2 wire) timers, I attach a 2-wire power cord, and then run a
separate wire from the light strip's chassis ground bolt to the
electrical box's chassis ground screw. If I have 3 wire timers, then I
run a 3 wire power cord, connecting to the chassis ground screw.
If your light strip only has 2 wires and matches your timer, then use as
designed. The manufacturer is using the neutral wire as the safety
ground. If you experience the humming, flickering I mentioned, sometimes
running a separate grounding wire will solve this.
It's not my intention to provide electrical wiring directions, but rather
to point out the most likely problems you can encounter, and suggest
solutions which might be applicable to your installation. Ideally, match
your timers to your power cord :o), and if embarking on DIY, ground wires
are a good thing to keep connected ;~)
NetMax
...
> Is there such thing as a gadget to gradually switch off strip lights in
an
> aquarium?
>
> TIA - Dave
> --
> www.aegis.uk.com
If your strip light is a fluorescent tube, then not really. There is a
patent on a dimmer for these lights, but AFAIK, it's only application so
far has been for large commercial installations, and they typically run
at higher voltages ie: 347Vac. It might reach a consumer product
eventually, though it might be more practical to re-deign the ballast in
the future to better accommodate a dimmer function.
I suggest you use a timer to have your lights go on after the tank is
bathed in indirect sunlight, and off when you still have enough ambient
light to let the fish wind down. Another option is to use 2 timers, so a
2nd smaller light is always going on first (preceding the fluorescent
strip) and again in the evening, to transition the fish from very bright
light, to a dim light, signalling the onset of nightfall. I use this
set-up on all my tanks (it contributes to a low stress environment, which
IMO results in healthier fish). The analog timers (with the dial) are
sufficient, but if you're in an area prone to power failures, I suggest
you use the digital models with a battery backup. Use 2 timers of the
same model, as it simplifies their tracking each other.
++++ some technical stuff
Take a look at your light strip's power cord connector (2 pin or 3 pin).
Keep this in mind when shopping for timers. It's not my intention to
give any electrical advice, due to the variety of circuits
internationally, but in some cases, you might encounter the following:
Your light strip might have 3 wires, and your timer only has 2 in their
connector. This means that the timer will not accommodate the safety
ground. Leaving the safety ground wire unconnected is IMO a bad idea as
we are working with a mix of electrical devices & water, and the light
might also fail to operate properly, humming, flickering etc. ymmv Try
to locate timers which match your power cord.
Many light strips are wired on installation, and there are 2 wires from
the ballast and a green chassis ground screw. On these, when I have
groundless (2 wire) timers, I attach a 2-wire power cord, and then run a
separate wire from the light strip's chassis ground bolt to the
electrical box's chassis ground screw. If I have 3 wire timers, then I
run a 3 wire power cord, connecting to the chassis ground screw.
If your light strip only has 2 wires and matches your timer, then use as
designed. The manufacturer is using the neutral wire as the safety
ground. If you experience the humming, flickering I mentioned, sometimes
running a separate grounding wire will solve this.
It's not my intention to provide electrical wiring directions, but rather
to point out the most likely problems you can encounter, and suggest
solutions which might be applicable to your installation. Ideally, match
your timers to your power cord :o), and if embarking on DIY, ground wires
are a good thing to keep connected ;~)
NetMax