![]() |
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Dave S" wrote in message ... Is there such thing as a gadget to gradually switch off strip lights in an aquarium? TIA - Dave -- www.aegis.uk.com If your strip light is a fluorescent tube, then not really. There is a patent on a dimmer for these lights, but AFAIK, it's only application so far has been for large commercial installations, and they typically run at higher voltages ie: 347Vac. It might reach a consumer product eventually, though it might be more practical to re-deign the ballast in the future to better accommodate a dimmer function. I suggest you use a timer to have your lights go on after the tank is bathed in indirect sunlight, and off when you still have enough ambient light to let the fish wind down. Another option is to use 2 timers, so a 2nd smaller light is always going on first (preceding the fluorescent strip) and again in the evening, to transition the fish from very bright light, to a dim light, signalling the onset of nightfall. I use this set-up on all my tanks (it contributes to a low stress environment, which IMO results in healthier fish). The analog timers (with the dial) are sufficient, but if you're in an area prone to power failures, I suggest you use the digital models with a battery backup. Use 2 timers of the same model, as it simplifies their tracking each other. ++++ some technical stuff Take a look at your light strip's power cord connector (2 pin or 3 pin). Keep this in mind when shopping for timers. It's not my intention to give any electrical advice, due to the variety of circuits internationally, but in some cases, you might encounter the following: Your light strip might have 3 wires, and your timer only has 2 in their connector. This means that the timer will not accommodate the safety ground. Leaving the safety ground wire unconnected is IMO a bad idea as we are working with a mix of electrical devices & water, and the light might also fail to operate properly, humming, flickering etc. ymmv Try to locate timers which match your power cord. Many light strips are wired on installation, and there are 2 wires from the ballast and a green chassis ground screw. On these, when I have groundless (2 wire) timers, I attach a 2-wire power cord, and then run a separate wire from the light strip's chassis ground bolt to the electrical box's chassis ground screw. If I have 3 wire timers, then I run a 3 wire power cord, connecting to the chassis ground screw. If your light strip only has 2 wires and matches your timer, then use as designed. The manufacturer is using the neutral wire as the safety ground. If you experience the humming, flickering I mentioned, sometimes running a separate grounding wire will solve this. It's not my intention to provide electrical wiring directions, but rather to point out the most likely problems you can encounter, and suggest solutions which might be applicable to your installation. Ideally, match your timers to your power cord ![]() are a good thing to keep connected ;~) NetMax |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Help ID with this Ugly thing | John N. Gretchen III | Reefs | 4 | April 23rd 04 02:54 AM |
Aiptasia = most tenacious thing I know of. | Dr Drudge | Reefs | 8 | January 13th 04 02:48 AM |
hi all some thing is killing my green brittle stars? | [email protected] | Reefs | 1 | January 4th 04 02:20 AM |
marry-mas to all ,some thing is eatting green brittle star? | [email protected] | Reefs | 0 | December 26th 03 12:49 AM |
Stress Coat VS anti-stress - same thing ? | Lior T | General | 0 | July 20th 03 08:28 AM |