dumb question.
 

This is what I get for dropping my Jeep off at a Dodge dealership for
a quick/cheap oil change. :) Oh well, worst off I run for a while,
flush, and refill. Only $19 for a full oil flush isn't bad.

By the receipt it looks like they put 5 quarts of 5W30 in.
...er..
Should be 6 quarts of 10W30.

I gotta start paying more attention....

Oil looks nice and clean but 5W is more for < freezing expected
in the next interval. It's close to fall, but not that close to
winter. On the other hand the oil is only 10 cold with a viscosity
of 30 at operating temperature. i.e. more for easier starts in cold
weather.

I'll top off the oil with some 10W30 synthetic so that's not a biggie.

Still though, I've got a few more thousand miles of travel in 90+ weather.
From what I understand there really isn't an issue since the weight is still
30 and the engine operates at the same temperature anyway.

Thoughts?

--
DougW

dumb question.
 

Why not try a can of STP?


"DougW" > wrote in message
news:P1KFg.1554$JR5.977@dukeread11...
> This is what I get for dropping my Jeep off at a Dodge dealership for
> a quick/cheap oil change. :) Oh well, worst off I run for a while,
> flush, and refill. Only $19 for a full oil flush isn't bad.
>
> By the receipt it looks like they put 5 quarts of 5W30 in.
> ..er..
> Should be 6 quarts of 10W30.
>
> I gotta start paying more attention....
>
> Oil looks nice and clean but 5W is more for < freezing expected
> in the next interval. It's close to fall, but not that close to
> winter. On the other hand the oil is only 10 cold with a viscosity
> of 30 at operating temperature. i.e. more for easier starts in cold
> weather.
>
> I'll top off the oil with some 10W30 synthetic so that's not a biggie.
>
> Still though, I've got a few more thousand miles of travel in 90+ weather.
> From what I understand there really isn't an issue since the weight is
> still
> 30 and the engine operates at the same temperature anyway.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> --
> DougW
>

dumb question.
 

billy ray wrote:
> Why not try a can of STP?

I try not to put additives in the oil. Figure the
bottles have enough as it is. :)

From what I've read (and I've read a lot in the
past hour or so) it seems that 5W30 is the standard
oil that all Dodge dealers install and is more for
the modern engine with tighter clearances. Since
my 4.0 doesn't burn any oil or drip even with synthetic
it should be fine for the next 3,000 miles.

Worst off I get an excuse to drop in a nice shiny stroker kit. :D

--
Doug(damn this addiction)W

dumb question.
 

My owner's manual (1995 YJ) says to "Select oil viscosity according to the
lowest air temperature expected before the next oil change using the engine
oil viscosity chart". According to the chart, 5W30 is good up to a "lowest
air temperature expected" of 60º, and 10W30 is good down to 0º! There is
considerable overlap there. According to this information, I could probably
get away with either 5W30 or 10W30 year round, living where I live.

It's not just easier starts. An oil that is too heavy can cause increased
wear during cold starts, because it doesn't get to the bearings fast enough.
Gene Berg said that "the heavier the oil, the less it lubricates"
http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=237 third paragraph. Ignore
the part about clamping a cow magnet to the outside of your oil pickup tube.
;^)

Like you, I would probably have chosen 10W30 for an oil change in August,
but this little misunderstanding won't hurt anything.

Earle

"DougW" > wrote in message
news:P1KFg.1554$JR5.977@dukeread11...
> This is what I get for dropping my Jeep off at a Dodge dealership for
> a quick/cheap oil change. :) Oh well, worst off I run for a while,
> flush, and refill. Only $19 for a full oil flush isn't bad.
>
> By the receipt it looks like they put 5 quarts of 5W30 in.
> ..er..
> Should be 6 quarts of 10W30.
>
> I gotta start paying more attention....
>
> Oil looks nice and clean but 5W is more for < freezing expected
> in the next interval. It's close to fall, but not that close to
> winter. On the other hand the oil is only 10 cold with a viscosity
> of 30 at operating temperature. i.e. more for easier starts in cold
> weather.
>
> I'll top off the oil with some 10W30 synthetic so that's not a biggie.
>
> Still though, I've got a few more thousand miles of travel in 90+ weather.
> From what I understand there really isn't an issue since the weight is
still
> 30 and the engine operates at the same temperature anyway.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

dumb question.
 

Earle Horton wrote:
> My owner's manual (1995 YJ) says to "Select oil viscosity according
> to the lowest air temperature expected before the next oil change
> using the engine oil viscosity chart". According to the chart, 5W30
> is good up to a "lowest air temperature expected" of 60º, and 10W30
> is good down to 0º! There is considerable overlap there. According
> to this information, I could probably get away with either 5W30 or
> 10W30 year round, living where I live.
>
> It's not just easier starts. An oil that is too heavy can cause
> increased wear during cold starts, because it doesn't get to the
> bearings fast enough. Gene Berg said that "the heavier the oil, the
> less it lubricates" http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=237
> third paragraph. Ignore the part about clamping a cow magnet to the
> outside of your oil pickup tube. ;^)

I put a couple of hard-drive magnets on the oil filter. Figure it
won't hurt anthing and if it picks up some metal that's good too.

> Like you, I would probably have chosen 10W30 for an oil change in
> August, but this little misunderstanding won't hurt anything.

That's my feeling. Maby they will send me up to Peterson AFB this winter. :)

--
DougW

dumb question.
 

It doesn't matter. You're still getting the protection of 30 weight oil
at normal summer temperatures, within the design life of the oil. For
more than you probably want to know about motor oil ratings, see:
<URL:http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/html/ccr/ccr20040601ov.html>

And $19 is a good price. I last paid $30 at the local qwik lube.
But they put in enough to bring it up to the "full" mark on the
dipstick, too.

Here's one, though: The guy at the lube shop claimed that the red dye
in ATF fluid is designed to give up and turn brown about the same time
as the additives in the fluid give up. Anyone know if that's true?


DougW wrote:
> This is what I get for dropping my Jeep off at a Dodge dealership for
> a quick/cheap oil change. :) Oh well, worst off I run for a while,
> flush, and refill. Only $19 for a full oil flush isn't bad.
>
> By the receipt it looks like they put 5 quarts of 5W30 in.
> ...er..
> Should be 6 quarts of 10W30.
>
> I gotta start paying more attention....
>
> Oil looks nice and clean but 5W is more for < freezing expected
> in the next interval. It's close to fall, but not that close to
> winter. On the other hand the oil is only 10 cold with a viscosity
> of 30 at operating temperature. i.e. more for easier starts in cold
> weather.
>
> I'll top off the oil with some 10W30 synthetic so that's not a biggie.
>
> Still though, I've got a few more thousand miles of travel in 90+ weather.
> From what I understand there really isn't an issue since the weight is still
> 30 and the engine operates at the same temperature anyway.
>
> Thoughts?
>

dumb question.
 

"Lee Ayrton" > wrote in message
...
>
---snippy---
>
> Here's one, though: The guy at the lube shop claimed that the red dye
> in ATF fluid is designed to give up and turn brown about the same time
> as the additives in the fluid give up. Anyone know if that's true?
>
One thing you always want to keep in mind, is how much education and
ambition it takes, to work in a lube shop. Now with a dealer technician,
maybe they send him to a service school once in a while, and maybe he
actually studies the material instead of using it as a chance to party every
night on the boss' dime, but how much in-service training do you think lube
shop guys get?

He's got one thing right though. If the fluid is any color but red, you do
want to change it.

Earle

dumb question.
 

The new manuals say that color isn't a reflection of fluid condition.

I'm not so sure what I think about their statement on color and smell
though.

The following is an excerpt from the '02 WJ manual:

DESCRIPTION - AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

FLUID

NOTE: Refer to Service Procedures in this group for

fluid level checking procedures.

Mopar ATF +4, type 9602, Automatic Transmission

Fluid is the recommended fluid for

DaimlerChrysler automatic transmissions.

Dexron II fluid IS NOT recommended. Clutch

chatter can result from the use of improper

fluid.

Mopar ATF +4, type 9602, Automatic Transmission

Fluid when new is red in color. The ATF is dyed

red so it can be identified from other fluids used in

the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red

color is not permanent and is not an indicator of fluid

condition. As the vehicle is driven, the ATF will begin

to look darker in color and may eventually become

brown. This is normal. ATF+4 also has a unique

odor that may change with age. Consequently, odor

and color cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition

or the need for a fluid change.






"Earle Horton" > wrote in message
om...
>
> "Lee Ayrton" > wrote in message
> ...
>>
> ---snippy---
>>
>> Here's one, though: The guy at the lube shop claimed that the red dye
>> in ATF fluid is designed to give up and turn brown about the same time
>> as the additives in the fluid give up. Anyone know if that's true?
>>
> One thing you always want to keep in mind, is how much education and
> ambition it takes, to work in a lube shop. Now with a dealer technician,
> maybe they send him to a service school once in a while, and maybe he
> actually studies the material instead of using it as a chance to party
> every
> night on the boss' dime, but how much in-service training do you think
> lube
> shop guys get?
>
> He's got one thing right though. If the fluid is any color but red, you
> do
> want to change it.
>
> Earle
>
>
>

dumb question.
 

I don't believe you'll find a grease monkey with less than a
Automotive Service Excellence Certification
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

Earle Horton wrote:
>
> One thing you always want to keep in mind, is how much education and
> ambition it takes, to work in a lube shop. Now with a dealer technician,
> maybe they send him to a service school once in a while, and maybe he
> actually studies the material instead of using it as a chance to party every
> night on the boss' dime, but how much in-service training do you think lube
> shop guys get?
>
> He's got one thing right though. If the fluid is any color but red, you do
> want to change it.
>
> Earle

dumb question.
 

L.W.(Bill) Hughes III wrote:
> I don't believe you'll find a grease monkey with less than a
> Automotive Service Excellence Certification

I found a few of those at Midas.... I think somewhere they give that
ASE patch away in brekfast cerial boxes. :/ Those were the folks that
tried to weld tabs to make brakes fit my ZJ that wern't for my ZJ rather
than check the part number.

Oddly enough that shop is still closed (has been for the past five years).
They probably killed somebody. :(

> Earle Horton wrote:
>>
>> One thing you always want to keep in mind, is how much education and
>> ambition it takes, to work in a lube shop. Now with a dealer
>> technician, maybe they send him to a service school once in a while,
>> and maybe he actually studies the material instead of using it as a
>> chance to party every night on the boss' dime, but how much
>> in-service training do you think lube shop guys get?
>>
>> He's got one thing right though. If the fluid is any color but red,
>> you do want to change it.
>>
>> Earle