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#1
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I just recently lost one of my orandas. I had him for about 8 months.
He was quite normal until about 3-4 days before he died. Symptoms were that he just sat on the bottom, then would kind of lean to the side. He would be like this in the morning, but would then begon to swim around reasonably normal. He also had what appeared to be a bit of bloodshot-edness in his fins. After about 2 days, I treated the tank with Mardel Coppersafe and Marycyn 2. He got progressively worse, finally laying on the tank either nose down or upside down. Total sick time until the end was only about 5 days or so. Now, what I have read after the fact, there seems to be a bit of evidence toward the diet of the fish. I have other fish in the tanke, and I have been feeding them a dry food, Hikari Ciclid Gold. Years ago, I used this food with the same types of fish and had no problems, so I thought I was OK. Anyway, there seems to be a lot of discussion pointing to varied foods, such as brine shrimp, freeze dried worms, and green peas. I have also read that dry food is better pre-soaked. It was very upsetting to see him go like this, especially since I could not really see where I had went wrong. Tank parameters at the time (55 gal tank): ph about 7.2, ammonia neutral, long tubular airstone, Fluval 304 filter, wter crystal clear, temp around 77 deg. I have some live plants, mostly ferns and grass. 3 Lights, all on a timer which has them on about 8 hours a day. Any thoughts, direction, and or advice would be greatly appreciated as I really love the orandas and would like to get another. Additionally, this was not the first goldfish problem. About a month ago, one of my large black moors got what appeared to be a large lesion on his side back by his tail fin. I tried what I thought was the correct remedies for parasite, but ultimately lost him too. And, my remaining moor now has a smaller, less ugly lesion in the same place. I have treated the tanke with the Coppersafe again, but I just do not know what else to try. Thanks. Jim -- |
#2
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sounds like kidney damage/failure....
Sorry about your beautiful fish dude "Jim Wilkerson" wrote in message news:RFFxzJm83E64-pn2-OdCp7N1vsZcS@localhost... I just recently lost one of my orandas. I had him for about 8 months. He was quite normal until about 3-4 days before he died. Symptoms were that he just sat on the bottom, then would kind of lean to the side. He would be like this in the morning, but would then begon to swim around reasonably normal. He also had what appeared to be a bit of bloodshot-edness in his fins. After about 2 days, I treated the tank with Mardel Coppersafe and Marycyn 2. He got progressively worse, finally laying on the tank either nose down or upside down. Total sick time until the end was only about 5 days or so. Now, what I have read after the fact, there seems to be a bit of evidence toward the diet of the fish. I have other fish in the tanke, and I have been feeding them a dry food, Hikari Ciclid Gold. Years ago, I used this food with the same types of fish and had no problems, so I thought I was OK. Anyway, there seems to be a lot of discussion pointing to varied foods, such as brine shrimp, freeze dried worms, and green peas. I have also read that dry food is better pre-soaked. It was very upsetting to see him go like this, especially since I could not really see where I had went wrong. Tank parameters at the time (55 gal tank): ph about 7.2, ammonia neutral, long tubular airstone, Fluval 304 filter, wter crystal clear, temp around 77 deg. I have some live plants, mostly ferns and grass. 3 Lights, all on a timer which has them on about 8 hours a day. Any thoughts, direction, and or advice would be greatly appreciated as I really love the orandas and would like to get another. Additionally, this was not the first goldfish problem. About a month ago, one of my large black moors got what appeared to be a large lesion on his side back by his tail fin. I tried what I thought was the correct remedies for parasite, but ultimately lost him too. And, my remaining moor now has a smaller, less ugly lesion in the same place. I have treated the tanke with the Coppersafe again, but I just do not know what else to try. Thanks. Jim -- |
#3
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How many fish....Nitrates? Nitrites?
you should lay off the chemicals.... Were you absolutely 100% certian than the lesion was parasitic....by the sounds of it..lesions are cause by the fish being physically hurt, like setting scratched on a sharp object..... And your oranda problem.....have you ever considered even feeding thawed frozen shelled mushed peas?? it helps if the fish is bloated from eating dry food....kind of like a laxetive.......And anyone can correct me if I'm wrong but cichlid food is made ESPECIALLY for cichlids (different ammount of fats and proteins and other things) ...When you treated the oranda, you created another problem...it seems that the medications already sent a stressed fish ofer the edge.....nose standing indicates kidney damage..... And red streaks in fins and body is septicemia or blood poisoning..... If in doubt....treat a sick fish with salt (look up the dosages on the net)...salt won't send an already sick fish over the edge.... HTH "Jim Wilkerson" wrote in message news:RFFxzJm83E64-pn2-OdCp7N1vsZcS@localhost... I just recently lost one of my orandas. I had him for about 8 months. He was quite normal until about 3-4 days before he died. Symptoms were that he just sat on the bottom, then would kind of lean to the side. He would be like this in the morning, but would then begon to swim around reasonably normal. He also had what appeared to be a bit of bloodshot-edness in his fins. After about 2 days, I treated the tank with Mardel Coppersafe and Marycyn 2. He got progressively worse, finally laying on the tank either nose down or upside down. Total sick time until the end was only about 5 days or so. Now, what I have read after the fact, there seems to be a bit of evidence toward the diet of the fish. I have other fish in the tanke, and I have been feeding them a dry food, Hikari Ciclid Gold. Years ago, I used this food with the same types of fish and had no problems, so I thought I was OK. Anyway, there seems to be a lot of discussion pointing to varied foods, such as brine shrimp, freeze dried worms, and green peas. I have also read that dry food is better pre-soaked. It was very upsetting to see him go like this, especially since I could not really see where I had went wrong. Tank parameters at the time (55 gal tank): ph about 7.2, ammonia neutral, long tubular airstone, Fluval 304 filter, wter crystal clear, temp around 77 deg. I have some live plants, mostly ferns and grass. 3 Lights, all on a timer which has them on about 8 hours a day. Any thoughts, direction, and or advice would be greatly appreciated as I really love the orandas and would like to get another. Additionally, this was not the first goldfish problem. About a month ago, one of my large black moors got what appeared to be a large lesion on his side back by his tail fin. I tried what I thought was the correct remedies for parasite, but ultimately lost him too. And, my remaining moor now has a smaller, less ugly lesion in the same place. I have treated the tanke with the Coppersafe again, but I just do not know what else to try. Thanks. Jim -- |
#4
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55 gal tank, with the following fish population:
3 cory cats 1 plecostomas 1 brown African knife 2 Angels 1 Swordtail molly 2 Gourami (1 opaline, 1 dwarf red) 1 black moor (about 4 inches) 1 remaining oranda (about 3.3 inches) Not sure about the nitrites, but I am going to get a test kit tonight and find that part out. Also going to switch to a more standard fish food (would something like the Hikari line for goldfish be ok for the others?). I also have in the past used the freeze dried Tubifex worms and froze brine shrimp. From what I have read, I will in the future pre-soak the Tubifex worms before feeding. I always thaw the brine shrimp first. Also, I am going to get the frozen peas and apply as well. Looks like maybe once a week for the peas? I have heard the salt remedy as well. after I apply the salt, obviously it will not evaporate with the water, and a water change will surely reduce the salinity. My question, what about the filter? Will it take a certain amount of the salt out? Will I need to change any of the filter components any sooner than I normally would? On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 09:01:07 UTC, "Starfish" wrote: Thanks for the guidance. Jim How many fish....Nitrates? Nitrites? you should lay off the chemicals.... Were you absolutely 100% certian than the lesion was parasitic....by the sounds of it..lesions are cause by the fish being physically hurt, like setting scratched on a sharp object..... And your oranda problem.....have you ever considered even feeding thawed frozen shelled mushed peas?? it helps if the fish is bloated from eating dry food....kind of like a laxetive.......And anyone can correct me if I'm wrong but cichlid food is made ESPECIALLY for cichlids (different ammount of fats and proteins and other things) ..When you treated the oranda, you created another problem...it seems that the medications already sent a stressed fish ofer the edge.....nose standing indicates kidney damage..... And red streaks in fins and body is septicemia or blood poisoning..... If in doubt....treat a sick fish with salt (look up the dosages on the net)...salt won't send an already sick fish over the edge.... HTH "Jim Wilkerson" wrote in message news:RFFxzJm83E64-pn2-OdCp7N1vsZcS@localhost... I just recently lost one of my orandas. I had him for about 8 months. He was quite normal until about 3-4 days before he died. Symptoms were that he just sat on the bottom, then would kind of lean to the side. He would be like this in the morning, but would then begon to swim around reasonably normal. He also had what appeared to be a bit of bloodshot-edness in his fins. After about 2 days, I treated the tank with Mardel Coppersafe and Marycyn 2. He got progressively worse, finally laying on the tank either nose down or upside down. Total sick time until the end was only about 5 days or so. Now, what I have read after the fact, there seems to be a bit of evidence toward the diet of the fish. I have other fish in the tanke, and I have been feeding them a dry food, Hikari Ciclid Gold. Years ago, I used this food with the same types of fish and had no problems, so I thought I was OK. Anyway, there seems to be a lot of discussion pointing to varied foods, such as brine shrimp, freeze dried worms, and green peas. I have also read that dry food is better pre-soaked. It was very upsetting to see him go like this, especially since I could not really see where I had went wrong. Tank parameters at the time (55 gal tank): ph about 7.2, ammonia neutral, long tubular airstone, Fluval 304 filter, wter crystal clear, temp around 77 deg. I have some live plants, mostly ferns and grass. 3 Lights, all on a timer which has them on about 8 hours a day. Any thoughts, direction, and or advice would be greatly appreciated as I really love the orandas and would like to get another. Additionally, this was not the first goldfish problem. About a month ago, one of my large black moors got what appeared to be a large lesion on his side back by his tail fin. I tried what I thought was the correct remedies for parasite, but ultimately lost him too. And, my remaining moor now has a smaller, less ugly lesion in the same place. I have treated the tanke with the Coppersafe again, but I just do not know what else to try. Thanks. Jim -- -- |
#5
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Tested my water this evening.
ph = about 7.2 Ammonia = neutral Nitrites = 0 ppm Nitrates = as near as I can tell, about 80-100ppm (the instructions that came with the kit say aronud 40ppm is normal. Thoughts?) Also, I have originally added slat to the water, I believe it was whatever was recommended on the container of salt that I bought (1TBS/5 gallons water?) I have tried to find anything on the web that talks about any kind of additional salt treatment, but I am not having much luck. Is there a guide of some sort out there somewhere? Thanks again, Jim On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 09:01:07 UTC, "Starfish" wrote: How many fish....Nitrates? Nitrites? you should lay off the chemicals.... Were you absolutely 100% certian than the lesion was parasitic....by the sounds of it..lesions are cause by the fish being physically hurt, like setting scratched on a sharp object..... And your oranda problem.....have you ever considered even feeding thawed frozen shelled mushed peas?? it helps if the fish is bloated from eating dry food....kind of like a laxetive.......And anyone can correct me if I'm wrong but cichlid food is made ESPECIALLY for cichlids (different ammount of fats and proteins and other things) ..When you treated the oranda, you created another problem...it seems that the medications already sent a stressed fish ofer the edge.....nose standing indicates kidney damage..... And red streaks in fins and body is septicemia or blood poisoning..... If in doubt....treat a sick fish with salt (look up the dosages on the net)...salt won't send an already sick fish over the edge.... HTH "Jim Wilkerson" wrote in message news:RFFxzJm83E64-pn2-OdCp7N1vsZcS@localhost... I just recently lost one of my orandas. I had him for about 8 months. He was quite normal until about 3-4 days before he died. Symptoms were that he just sat on the bottom, then would kind of lean to the side. He would be like this in the morning, but would then begon to swim around reasonably normal. He also had what appeared to be a bit of bloodshot-edness in his fins. After about 2 days, I treated the tank with Mardel Coppersafe and Marycyn 2. He got progressively worse, finally laying on the tank either nose down or upside down. Total sick time until the end was only about 5 days or so. Now, what I have read after the fact, there seems to be a bit of evidence toward the diet of the fish. I have other fish in the tanke, and I have been feeding them a dry food, Hikari Ciclid Gold. Years ago, I used this food with the same types of fish and had no problems, so I thought I was OK. Anyway, there seems to be a lot of discussion pointing to varied foods, such as brine shrimp, freeze dried worms, and green peas. I have also read that dry food is better pre-soaked. It was very upsetting to see him go like this, especially since I could not really see where I had went wrong. Tank parameters at the time (55 gal tank): ph about 7.2, ammonia neutral, long tubular airstone, Fluval 304 filter, wter crystal clear, temp around 77 deg. I have some live plants, mostly ferns and grass. 3 Lights, all on a timer which has them on about 8 hours a day. Any thoughts, direction, and or advice would be greatly appreciated as I really love the orandas and would like to get another. Additionally, this was not the first goldfish problem. About a month ago, one of my large black moors got what appeared to be a large lesion on his side back by his tail fin. I tried what I thought was the correct remedies for parasite, but ultimately lost him too. And, my remaining moor now has a smaller, less ugly lesion in the same place. I have treated the tanke with the Coppersafe again, but I just do not know what else to try. Thanks. Jim -- -- |
#6
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#7
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Please think about getting a separate tank that is just for your
goldfish -- perhaps a 20 gallon and then keep the population at 1 oranda and 1 moor. Goldfish are a different type of fish than tropical fish. Medications that might work on a tropical fish may not work on a goldfish. |
#8
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![]() "D.L." wrote in message ... Please think about getting a separate tank that is just for your goldfish -- perhaps a 20 gallon and then keep the population at 1 oranda and 1 moor. Do Orandas get along better with Moors than they do with Fantails? My Oranda is not getting along with my Fantails. |
#9
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Do Orandas get along better with Moors than they do with Fantails? My
Oranda is not getting along with my Fantails. I'm not an expert on goldfish behavior, but I think for the most part, goldfish of different types will get along if they are put into a tank when they are all small and they grow up together. I think that trouble starts when you add a new fish to an established tank population. |
#10
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"D.L." wrote:
I'm not an expert on goldfish behavior, but I think for the most part, goldfish of different types will get along if they are put into a tank when they are all small and they grow up together. I think that trouble starts when you add a new fish to an established tank population. The LFS keeps the Red Cap Orandas with the Orange Fantails, but they keep the Black Moors all by themselves. The Oranda and Fantail I bought were from the same tank at the LFS, but they don't appear to get along. I was at the LFS recently, and there was a dead black moor at the bottom of the tank, and another black moor was nibbling away at it. Disgusting, to say the least. Why don't the LFS employees take notice of these things before customers do? |
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