Pond Heaters for Sale

Hi,
I have several Coates heaters for sale that have the controls removed
for use as a pond heater. These are 11 kW heaters at 208/230v. Since
there are no controls, a seperate low temperature thermostat and
contactor or a manual switch will be needed to start the unit. They
do contain a flow switch that can be wired into the contactors or
manual switch for safety in case of pump failure. These are brand new
in their original packaging.

Link to manufactures web site:
http://www.coatesheaters.com/CoatesW...es_heaters.htm

This link shows a typical list price for these units:
http://www.pool-spa-supplies.com/Catalog/91.pdf

I need to clear out some garage space, so my price for these is $200
each. I will cover shipping costs. Paypal, money order, or cashiers
check preferred. I will accept a personal check, but funds need to
clear first. We can work the details out via e-mail.



Thanks,
Craig

DO YOU KNOW HOW BIG THEY ARE
you'll boil the water.




"Craig" wrote in message
om...
Hi,
I have several Coates heaters for sale that have the controls removed
for use as a pond heater. These are 11 kW heaters at 208/230v. Since
there are no controls, a seperate low temperature thermostat and
contactor or a manual switch will be needed to start the unit. They
do contain a flow switch that can be wired into the contactors or
manual switch for safety in case of pump failure. These are brand new
in their original packaging.

Link to manufactures web site:
http://www.coatesheaters.com/CoatesW...es_heaters.htm

This link shows a typical list price for these units:
http://www.pool-spa-supplies.com/Catalog/91.pdf

I need to clear out some garage space, so my price for these is $200
each. I will cover shipping costs. Paypal, money order, or cashiers
check preferred. I will accept a personal check, but funds need to
clear first. We can work the details out via e-mail.



Thanks,
Craig

The message
from (Craig) contains these words:

I have several Coates heaters for sale that have the controls removed
for use as a pond heater. These are 11 kW heaters at 208/230v. Since
there are no controls, a seperate low temperature thermostat and
contactor or a manual switch will be needed to start the unit. They
do contain a flow switch that can be wired into the contactors or
manual switch for safety in case of pump failure. These are brand new
in their original packaging.

Do you really mean kW?

A thousandth of a watt won't accomplish much.... (ITYM KW)

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

Jaques d'Alltrades wrote:
The message
from (Craig) contains these words:


I have several Coates heaters for sale that have the controls removed
for use as a pond heater. These are 11 kW heaters at 208/230v. Since
there are no controls, a seperate low temperature thermostat and
contactor or a manual switch will be needed to start the unit. They
do contain a flow switch that can be wired into the contactors or
manual switch for safety in case of pump failure. These are brand new
in their original packaging.


Do you really mean kW?

A thousandth of a watt won't accomplish much.... (ITYM KW)


Kw = Kilowatt, 1000 watts

they are 11,000 watts/24 Amps/220V and make 37,500 BTU!
thats enough for a small house




--
--
http://www.kencofish.com Ken Arnold,
401-781-9642 cell 401-225-0556
Importer/Exporter of Goldfish,Koi,rare Predators
Shipping to legal states/countries only!
Permalon liners, Oase & Supreme Pondmaster pumps


Linux (SuSE 8.2) user #329121
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that a signicant number of electrons may have been
inconvenienced

KenCo wrote in message ...
Jaques d'Alltrades wrote:
The message
from (Craig) contains these words:


I have several Coates heaters for sale that have the controls removed
for use as a pond heater. These are 11 kW heaters at 208/230v. Since
there are no controls, a seperate low temperature thermostat and
contactor or a manual switch will be needed to start the unit. They
do contain a flow switch that can be wired into the contactors or
manual switch for safety in case of pump failure. These are brand new
in their original packaging.


Do you really mean kW?

A thousandth of a watt won't accomplish much.... (ITYM KW)


Kw = Kilowatt, 1000 watts

they are 11,000 watts/24 Amps/220V and make 37,500 BTU!
thats enough for a small house



True! If you would like one to heat your 25,000 gallon pool, this
would do nicely as well.

I should explain further though....
These heaters have two elements in them and are designed for 208/240
single phase power. You would have several options. It seems as
though we have a couple EE's here so I am sure they can come up with a
couple of different ways, but potentially you could run half of the
heater on 115v power. This would also allow for a reasonable current
draw for a normal circuit. This larger heater would only need to be
on for a short period of time to increase the water temperature. I
don't think it would be an issue, but you might want to increase the
differential of the thermostat to prevent short cycling of the heater.
Under most circumstances cycling does not adversely affect an
electric heater.

Technically I suppose KW is more appropriate. In industry I see it
written both ways.

The message
from (Craig) contains these words:

they are 11,000 watts/24 Amps/220V and make 37,500 BTU!
thats enough for a small house

True! If you would like one to heat your 25,000 gallon pool, this
would do nicely as well.

I should explain further though....
These heaters have two elements in them and are designed for 208/240
single phase power. You would have several options. It seems as
though we have a couple EE's here so I am sure they can come up with a
couple of different ways, but potentially you could run half of the
heater on 115v power. This would also allow for a reasonable current
draw for a normal circuit. This larger heater would only need to be
on for a short period of time to increase the water temperature. I
don't think it would be an issue, but you might want to increase the
differential of the thermostat to prevent short cycling of the heater.
Under most circumstances cycling does not adversely affect an
electric heater.

I like the idea: I've always had a hankering for excavating a big tank,
insulating under and beside it and heating it (with solar energy as much
as possible) and constructing a greenhouse/polytunnel over it.

This would take care of the greenhouse heating at night and during the
colder times of the year, and humidity could be regulated by ducting
ventilation through the airspace at the top of the tank.

Being dark in the tank, algæ should not be a problem.

However, later and more fanciful thoughts ran to creating a big pond
within a polytunnel and heating the water the same way, circulating it
through a barleystraw filter, then through a sand filter, and growing
tropical waterplants, keeping fish, and on the banks on either side
growing tropical - or at least sub-tropical fruits and vegetables.

To think that I once had the room for this project but no money to do
it, whereas now I don't have the room but could afford to play games....

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 11:45:32 GMT, Jaques d'Alltrades
wrote:

The message
from (Craig) contains these words:

I have several Coates heaters for sale that have the controls removed
for use as a pond heater. These are 11 kW heaters at 208/230v. Since
there are no controls, a seperate low temperature thermostat and
contactor or a manual switch will be needed to start the unit. They
do contain a flow switch that can be wired into the contactors or
manual switch for safety in case of pump failure. These are brand new
in their original packaging.

Do you really mean kW?

A thousandth of a watt won't accomplish much.... (ITYM KW)

1/1000 of a watt = milliwatt.