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#1
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I have a 10-gal. tank that has been up for about 10 year now. This last
month, I have been having major problems. Maybe someone can offer suggestions? The tank has an udergravel filter and one of those "auqua-mini" filters w/the foam and charcoal filter inserts. I started getting real bad algae problems - not much on the tank itself or on any items in the tank. Mostly it was in the filter. After a week or two, the foam insert and charcoal bag are totally green and full of green particulates of algae (not long stringy kind). Also, my tank water was continuously cloudy. Also, I have had live plants in the tank for a long time. They got too big, so I removed most of then. I tried using one of the "algae fix" solutions. Has not helped much. Also tried solution to "clear" the water. Sometimes it worked after a few days and the take was very clear. During this time, I had a Cory and Pleco die, and I have an dwarf fog that got some sort of disease- it's body became covered in white bumps all over and it died. I have been doing a water change/cleaning every week using a Python cleaner hose. Also, I have checked all my chemical values - Ph, Ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and they are all within tolerance. So, how can I get my tank back to a healthy state? Thanks |
#2
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![]() "Leor Amikam" wrote in message ... I have a 10-gal. tank that has been up for about 10 year now. This last month, I have been having major problems. Maybe someone can offer suggestions? The tank has an udergravel filter and one of those "auqua-mini" filters w/the foam and charcoal filter inserts. I started getting real bad algae problems - not much on the tank itself or on any items in the tank. Mostly it was in the filter. After a week or two, the foam insert and charcoal bag are totally green and full of green particulates of algae (not long stringy kind). Also, my tank water was continuously cloudy. $$ 10 years??? I hope you cleaned under that UGF regularly. Have you tried partial water changes of say 15% daily for a week or more? Have you checked your nitrate levels? Have you vacuumed your gravel at least monthly? Also, I have had live plants in the tank for a long time. They got too big, so I removed most of then. I tried using one of the "algae fix" solutions. Has not helped much. Also tried solution to "clear" the water. Sometimes it worked after a few days and the take was very clear. During this time, I had a Cory and Pleco die, and I have an dwarf fog that got some sort of disease- it's body became covered in white bumps all over and it died. I have been doing a water change/cleaning every week using a Python cleaner hose. ## How much water and have you cleaned out under the UGF? I quit using them 10 years ago because they're so hard to keep clean. Also, I have checked all my chemical values - Ph, Ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and they are all within tolerance. So, how can I get my tank back to a healthy state? ## Can you give us the figures? -- Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy ~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o |
#3
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If your filter inserts are green it indicates a water born algae. Could
your filter be filtering out GW? Give us your filter cleaning routine also..... A high level of nitrates could indicate decayed matter under the UG plates. Exact parameter values may be very helpful. You may not get much satisfaction from products to clear water or algae....... If the water is milky-white cloudy it may indicate a bio colony problem. If it's green cloudy, it affirms the GW. As far as the ammonia..... it's apparently the most toxic of parameters and a sharp spike in ammonia levels may have gone unnoticed by your tests but cause a big problem in the fish. I don't know just how many plants you removed, but reintroducing them might soften the problems with your tank. Plants injest many substances harmful to fish..... Something else to consider is: when removing the plants you disturb the substrate possibly releasing tons of trapped stuff into the water...... I know that from experience. If your lucky it only results in increased algae. http://www.geocities.com/spiral_72/Spirals_page.html |
#4
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Leor Amikam wrote:
I have a 10-gal. tank that has been up for about 10 year now. You must have been doing a good job, to keep the aquarium running that long. This last month, I have been having major problems. Maybe someone can offer suggestions? The tank has an udergravel filter and one of those "auqua-mini" filters w/the foam and charcoal filter inserts. I started getting real bad algae problems - not much on the tank itself or on any items in the tank. Mostly it was in the filter. After a week or two, the foam insert and charcoal bag are totally green and full of green particulates of algae (not long stringy kind). Also, my tank water was continuously cloudy. Algae need light and nutrients. Have you been getting sunlight on the filter, to cause the algae there? Have you changed/ removed the curtains in the room, thus getting more sunlight in the aquarium? Also, I have had live plants in the tank for a long time. They got too big, so I removed most of then. I tried using one of the "algae fix" solutions. Has not helped much. Also tried solution to "clear" the water. Sometimes it worked after a few days and the take was very clear. Removing the plants could cause algae to grow, because the plants use up nutrients that the algae otherwise thrive on. I think plants are great, and I merely trim them or remove only a few, when they prevent fish from swimming ![]() I would avoid "magic" chemicals as much as possible! During this time, I had a Cory and Pleco die, and I have an dwarf fog that got some sort of disease- it's body became covered in white bumps all over and it died. I have been doing a water change/cleaning every week using a Python cleaner hose. Also, I have checked all my chemical values - Ph, Ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and they are all within tolerance. So, how can I get my tank back to a healthy state? Thanks I agree with another poster that daily partial water changes for a week may be good, along with gravel vacuuming. In your hang-on filter, please try to keep the media when cleaning. That is, rinse the media in water from the aquarium (not chlorinated tap water) but do not replace. This is to preserve the helpful bacteria in the filter, that keep your aquarium healthy. Please do make sure that the filter stays fairly clean and has good water flow through the media. You're probably aware that the undergravel filter is also a biological filter. Is the airstone or bare air hose delivering enough air to the u/g filter lift column, providing good water flow? If all else fails, you may try a breakdown of the aquarium. This is sort of a last resort. Use buckets that have never had soap/ detergent in them. Place fish with some aquarium water in a bucket. Place your hang-on filter media in there too, to keep the bacteria alive. Remove your gravel and wash with aquarium water or dechlorinated water, to preserve your bacteria. Then remove the filter plate, rinse the grunge out of the aquarium and clean the filter plate. Then put everything back together with mostly new, dechlorinated water. Make sure temperatures are similar, add "new" aquarium water 50/50 into the bucket with fish and give them 20 min to adjust, then add the fish to the aquarium. Oh, and please unplug the heater before you begin tank draining - I've had a dry, hot heater melt a fishnet, and I also had a heater crack upon filling the aquarium with water while the heater was plugged in partly dry and super hot. Another thought: perhaps your fish have finally grown too big for your system? An inch of smaller fish per gallon is the usual rule, although with the two filters you might safely exceed that a bit. Maybe it's time for a bigger aquarium? If so, please re-use your gravel and filters to preserve those bacteria : ) . Good luck and don't panic! I'd favour trying to improve things slowly before attempting a tank breakdown; however 10 gal aquariums are easy to empty/ clean/ fill. Steve |
#5
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Thanks for all the help. What is "GW"? Also, I use the Python cleaner that
you attach to the sink, and then I suck up the gravel into the tube and let it settle. I do this each time I do a water change. No lighting changes has occurred - I have two compact fluorescent 10w lamps. My air stones are clean and I get a good stream of bubbles. I will try the partial water change daily and see how that works. "Steve" wrote in message ... Leor Amikam wrote: I have a 10-gal. tank that has been up for about 10 year now. You must have been doing a good job, to keep the aquarium running that long. This last month, I have been having major problems. Maybe someone can offer suggestions? The tank has an udergravel filter and one of those "auqua-mini" filters w/the foam and charcoal filter inserts. I started getting real bad algae problems - not much on the tank itself or on any items in the tank. Mostly it was in the filter. After a week or two, the foam insert and charcoal bag are totally green and full of green particulates of algae (not long stringy kind). Also, my tank water was continuously cloudy. Algae need light and nutrients. Have you been getting sunlight on the filter, to cause the algae there? Have you changed/ removed the curtains in the room, thus getting more sunlight in the aquarium? Also, I have had live plants in the tank for a long time. They got too big, so I removed most of then. I tried using one of the "algae fix" solutions. Has not helped much. Also tried solution to "clear" the water. Sometimes it worked after a few days and the take was very clear. Removing the plants could cause algae to grow, because the plants use up nutrients that the algae otherwise thrive on. I think plants are great, and I merely trim them or remove only a few, when they prevent fish from swimming ![]() I would avoid "magic" chemicals as much as possible! During this time, I had a Cory and Pleco die, and I have an dwarf fog that got some sort of disease- it's body became covered in white bumps all over and it died. I have been doing a water change/cleaning every week using a Python cleaner hose. Also, I have checked all my chemical values - Ph, Ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and they are all within tolerance. So, how can I get my tank back to a healthy state? Thanks I agree with another poster that daily partial water changes for a week may be good, along with gravel vacuuming. In your hang-on filter, please try to keep the media when cleaning. That is, rinse the media in water from the aquarium (not chlorinated tap water) but do not replace. This is to preserve the helpful bacteria in the filter, that keep your aquarium healthy. Please do make sure that the filter stays fairly clean and has good water flow through the media. You're probably aware that the undergravel filter is also a biological filter. Is the airstone or bare air hose delivering enough air to the u/g filter lift column, providing good water flow? If all else fails, you may try a breakdown of the aquarium. This is sort of a last resort. Use buckets that have never had soap/ detergent in them. Place fish with some aquarium water in a bucket. Place your hang-on filter media in there too, to keep the bacteria alive. Remove your gravel and wash with aquarium water or dechlorinated water, to preserve your bacteria. Then remove the filter plate, rinse the grunge out of the aquarium and clean the filter plate. Then put everything back together with mostly new, dechlorinated water. Make sure temperatures are similar, add "new" aquarium water 50/50 into the bucket with fish and give them 20 min to adjust, then add the fish to the aquarium. Oh, and please unplug the heater before you begin tank draining - I've had a dry, hot heater melt a fishnet, and I also had a heater crack upon filling the aquarium with water while the heater was plugged in partly dry and super hot. Another thought: perhaps your fish have finally grown too big for your system? An inch of smaller fish per gallon is the usual rule, although with the two filters you might safely exceed that a bit. Maybe it's time for a bigger aquarium? If so, please re-use your gravel and filters to preserve those bacteria : ) . Good luck and don't panic! I'd favour trying to improve things slowly before attempting a tank breakdown; however 10 gal aquariums are easy to empty/ clean/ fill. Steve |
#6
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Leor Amikam wrote:
Thanks for all the help. What is "GW"? Also, I use the Python cleaner that you attach to the sink, and then I suck up the gravel into the tube and let it settle. I do this each time I do a water change. No lighting changes has occurred - I have two compact fluorescent 10w lamps. My air stones are clean and I get a good stream of bubbles. I will try the partial water change daily and see how that works. "GW" as referred to by spiral_72 means green water. It's tiny, free-floating suspended algae that makes the water a greenish cloudy colour. 20 watts of fluorescent lighting in a 10 gallon aquarium is ideal for plants! However, I'd expect some algae problems with this much light and no plants. You could buy some hornwort, water sprite or other inexpensive and fast growing plants, and see if that helps reduce your algae. Certainly the plants should grow well! If you do this, buy enough plants to immediately spread out throughout the aquarium. Both plants I mentioned are free-floating, but other good plants for you might be smaller Vallisneria, inexpensive Rotala, Hygrophelia, Java Moss and the list goes on. Just make sure you're getting true aquatic plants and not water-tolerant houseplants (not so common in stores now). Instead of adding plants you could reduce the light. You could even turn off the light and just use room lighting. If the algae all die off from lack of light then they'll decompose, requiring temporary, frequent water changing to compensate. Good luck! Steve |
#7
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The frequent call for cleaning under the UGF is almost a mixed blessing. In
my experience, I retained a clean underplate by using powerheads on the uplift tubes. I used enough flow rate to turn the tank over once every 10 minutes. For your 10 gal tank, this would mean a powerhead of 60 gph. With this flow rate, there remained sufficient flow under the plate to pull out most of the deterus. Unfortunately this meant that it just ended up on the top layer of the gravel; therefore regular vacuuming was necessary however NEVER completely vacuum all of the gravel in one session. This will destroy your biological filtration. I did not use any additional filtration of any kind other than powerheads on a UGF and even grew live plants quite well. I ran a 100gal, 40gal and 20 gal this way with crystal clear water and too many plant trimmings ending up in the trash on a regular basis. Fishman "Leor Amikam" wrote in message ... Thanks for all the help. What is "GW"? Also, I use the Python cleaner that you attach to the sink, and then I suck up the gravel into the tube and let it settle. I do this each time I do a water change. No lighting changes has occurred - I have two compact fluorescent 10w lamps. My air stones are clean and I get a good stream of bubbles. I will try the partial water change daily and see how that works. "Steve" wrote in message ... Leor Amikam wrote: I have a 10-gal. tank that has been up for about 10 year now. You must have been doing a good job, to keep the aquarium running that long. This last month, I have been having major problems. Maybe someone can offer suggestions? The tank has an udergravel filter and one of those "auqua-mini" filters w/the foam and charcoal filter inserts. I started getting real bad algae problems - not much on the tank itself or on any items in the tank. Mostly it was in the filter. After a week or two, the foam insert and charcoal bag are totally green and full of green particulates of algae (not long stringy kind). Also, my tank water was continuously cloudy. Algae need light and nutrients. Have you been getting sunlight on the filter, to cause the algae there? Have you changed/ removed the curtains in the room, thus getting more sunlight in the aquarium? Also, I have had live plants in the tank for a long time. They got too big, so I removed most of then. I tried using one of the "algae fix" solutions. Has not helped much. Also tried solution to "clear" the water. Sometimes it worked after a few days and the take was very clear. Removing the plants could cause algae to grow, because the plants use up nutrients that the algae otherwise thrive on. I think plants are great, and I merely trim them or remove only a few, when they prevent fish from swimming ![]() I would avoid "magic" chemicals as much as possible! During this time, I had a Cory and Pleco die, and I have an dwarf fog that got some sort of disease- it's body became covered in white bumps all over and it died. I have been doing a water change/cleaning every week using a Python cleaner hose. Also, I have checked all my chemical values - Ph, Ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and they are all within tolerance. So, how can I get my tank back to a healthy state? Thanks I agree with another poster that daily partial water changes for a week may be good, along with gravel vacuuming. In your hang-on filter, please try to keep the media when cleaning. That is, rinse the media in water from the aquarium (not chlorinated tap water) but do not replace. This is to preserve the helpful bacteria in the filter, that keep your aquarium healthy. Please do make sure that the filter stays fairly clean and has good water flow through the media. You're probably aware that the undergravel filter is also a biological filter. Is the airstone or bare air hose delivering enough air to the u/g filter lift column, providing good water flow? If all else fails, you may try a breakdown of the aquarium. This is sort of a last resort. Use buckets that have never had soap/ detergent in them. Place fish with some aquarium water in a bucket. Place your hang-on filter media in there too, to keep the bacteria alive. Remove your gravel and wash with aquarium water or dechlorinated water, to preserve your bacteria. Then remove the filter plate, rinse the grunge out of the aquarium and clean the filter plate. Then put everything back together with mostly new, dechlorinated water. Make sure temperatures are similar, add "new" aquarium water 50/50 into the bucket with fish and give them 20 min to adjust, then add the fish to the aquarium. Oh, and please unplug the heater before you begin tank draining - I've had a dry, hot heater melt a fishnet, and I also had a heater crack upon filling the aquarium with water while the heater was plugged in partly dry and super hot. Another thought: perhaps your fish have finally grown too big for your system? An inch of smaller fish per gallon is the usual rule, although with the two filters you might safely exceed that a bit. Maybe it's time for a bigger aquarium? If so, please re-use your gravel and filters to preserve those bacteria : ) . Good luck and don't panic! I'd favour trying to improve things slowly before attempting a tank breakdown; however 10 gal aquariums are easy to empty/ clean/ fill. Steve |
#8
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Hmm. Lots of algae and dead ADF. Did you test your nitrate levels? What
were the results? HOw much and how often have you been doing your water changes? African Dwarf Frogs can be very sensitive to nitrates and it's neccessary to keep them lower then you might in a tank with other types of fish. It may have been one of the chemicals that killed the fish/frog but, nitrates were the first thing that came to mind. |
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