Hydrogen Peroxide treatment for Black Algae

RM...........The way to do this treatment is shut off all filters and
powerheads. Fill syringe with HP and reaching inside tank flow the HP
on the affected plants leaves.........150-200 cc can be used. Flow HP
on any affected areas, filter outlets, plants, gravel etc
etc..............wait a few minutes until you see the treated areas
start to fizzle or produce tiny streams of bubbles............then
turn off the lights as HP's life is shortened drastically by light.
(Thats why its shipped in a brown container) and in approx 5 to 10
minutes restart minimal circulation / filtration............Treatment
can be repeated as many times as needed until its eliminated. ONce
treated you will notice the origianl black areas turn to a pink
color........just let it be, and in a few days this new "pink" algae
will just slough off and get picked up by the filter media. The pink
is killed algae and is harmless.

There is a few plants that do not tolerate this very well but you
really have nothing to lose since the plant is doomed anyhow once
black algae gets on it as there really is no other way to kill the
algae without killing said plant............most plants hjowever do
handle HP just fine..but you may find some leaves that appear to be
eaten away or just have the veins of the leaf left and all green
l;eafy matter is missing. That was just part and parcel of the effects
of the black algae as it was killing the soft tissue and it was
history anyhow............Don't despair, if some plants appear to be
melted away as odds are they will recoup, and regenerate new growth
just fine. My tank IIRC looked like a war zone for about 1 week
afterwards, but I applied HP at a very high liberal rate and had huge
amazon swords and madagascar lace plants, anubia, ludwiga, cobomba,
hornwart and vals in the tank, I had treated my cichlid tank first off
and then my community tank as well........fish involved were typical
mBunas, neons, corys, pleco and angels and some guppies.......all came
out ok except for a guppy or two, and I am not so sure it was HP that
caused their demise as they were older females that I had for some
time.

Leave filtration and circulation off for as long as you can without
stressing the fish.......any HP that enters intothe overall water
column will work on any other black algae in the tank , but its much
slower and takes a lot longer and odds are will not do as good as
direct flow on of HP with a syringe....The more you can flowo n at a
time the better thats why I say a 50 or 60 cc syringe is best in place
of the smaller 5 or 10 cc ones.............You'll see it start to work
when bubbnles start to form and stream off.....and the longer you can
go without any current flow or filtration the better off. You can
also pull affected plants and flow HP on them outside the tank, allow
to remain damp for a bit, and then replace into the aquarium.

Regards

On Dec 26, 6:30 am, AquariumFatasies wrote:
RM...........The way to do this treatment is shut off all filters and
powerheads. Fill syringe with HP and reaching inside tank flow the HP
on the affected plants leaves.........150-200 cc can be used. Flow HP
on any affected areas, filter outlets, plants, gravel etc
etc..............wait a few minutes until you see the treated areas
start to fizzle or produce tiny streams of bubbles............then
turn off the lights as HP's life is shortened drastically by light.
(Thats why its shipped in a brown container) and in approx 5 to 10
minutes restart minimal circulation / filtration............Treatment
can be repeated as many times as needed until its eliminated. ONce
treated you will notice the origianl black areas turn to a pink
color........just let it be, and in a few days this new "pink" algae
will just slough off and get picked up by the filter media. The pink
is killed algae and is harmless.

There is a few plants that do not tolerate this very well but you
really have nothing to lose since the plant is doomed anyhow once
black algae gets on it as there really is no other way to kill the
algae without killing said plant............most plants hjowever do
handle HP just fine..but you may find some leaves that appear to be
eaten away or just have the veins of the leaf left and all green
l;eafy matter is missing. That was just part and parcel of the effects
of the black algae as it was killing the soft tissue and it was
history anyhow............Don't despair, if some plants appear to be
melted away as odds are they will recoup, and regenerate new growth
just fine. My tank IIRC looked like a war zone for about 1 week
afterwards, but I applied HP at a very high liberal rate and had huge
amazon swords and madagascar lace plants, anubia, ludwiga, cobomba,
hornwart and vals in the tank, I had treated my cichlid tank first off
and then my community tank as well........fish involved were typical
mBunas, neons, corys, pleco and angels and some guppies.......all came
out ok except for a guppy or two, and I am not so sure it was HP that
caused their demise as they were older females that I had for some
time.

Leave filtration and circulation off for as long as you can without
stressing the fish.......any HP that enters intothe overall water
column will work on any other black algae in the tank , but its much
slower and takes a lot longer and odds are will not do as good as
direct flow on of HP with a syringe....The more you can flowo n at a
time the better thats why I say a 50 or 60 cc syringe is best in place
of the smaller 5 or 10 cc ones.............You'll see it start to work
when bubbnles start to form and stream off.....and the longer you can
go without any current flow or filtration the better off. You can
also pull affected plants and flow HP on them outside the tank, allow
to remain damp for a bit, and then replace into the aquarium.

Regards

2 H2O2 $B"*(B 2 H2O + O2

The effects of putting hydrogen peroxide into an aquarium is simply a
short term increase in the amount of oxygen in the tank. You may be
treating the symptoms, but you're not curing the disease. Algae will
grow whenever the conditions are good for the algae.

On Dec 26, 2:58 pm, wrote:
On Dec 26, 6:30 am, AquariumFatasies wrote:





RM...........The way to do this treatment is shut off all filters and
powerheads. Fill syringe with HP and reaching inside tank flow the HP
on the affected plants leaves.........150-200 cc can be used. Flow HP
on any affected areas, filter outlets, plants, gravel etc
etc..............wait a few minutes until you see the treated areas
start to fizzle or produce tiny streams of bubbles............then
turn off the lights as HP's life is shortened drastically by light.
(Thats why its shipped in a brown container) and in approx 5 to 10
minutes restart minimal circulation / filtration............Treatment
can be repeated as many times as needed until its eliminated. ONce
treated you will notice the origianl black areas turn to a pink
color........just let it be, and in a few days this new "pink" algae
will just slough off and get picked up by the filter media. The pink
is killed algae and is harmless.

There is a few plants that do not tolerate this very well but you
really have nothing to lose since the plant is doomed anyhow once
black algae gets on it as there really is no other way to kill the
algae without killing said plant............most plants hjowever do
handle HP just fine..but you may find some leaves that appear to be
eaten away or just have the veins of the leaf left and all green
l;eafy matter is missing. That was just part and parcel of the effects
of the black algae as it was killing the soft tissue and it was
history anyhow............Don't despair, if some plants appear to be
melted away as odds are they will recoup, and regenerate new growth
just fine. My tank IIRC looked like a war zone for about 1 week
afterwards, but I applied HP at a very high liberal rate and had huge
amazon swords and madagascar lace plants, anubia, ludwiga, cobomba,
hornwart and vals in the tank, I had treated my cichlid tank first off
and then my community tank as well........fish involved were typical
mBunas, neons, corys, pleco and angels and some guppies.......all came
out ok except for a guppy or two, and I am not so sure it was HP that
caused their demise as they were older females that I had for some
time.

Leave filtration and circulation off for as long as you can without
stressing the fish.......any HP that enters intothe overall water
column will work on any other black algae in the tank , but its much
slower and takes a lot longer and odds are will not do as good as
direct flow on of HP with a syringe....The more you can flowo n at a
time the better thats why I say a 50 or 60 cc syringe is best in place
of the smaller 5 or 10 cc ones.............You'll see it start to work
when bubbnles start to form and stream off.....and the longer you can
go without any current flow or filtration the better off. You can
also pull affected plants and flow HP on them outside the tank, allow
to remain damp for a bit, and then replace into the aquarium.

Regards

2 H2O2 $B"*(B 2 H2O + O2

The effects of putting hydrogen peroxide into an aquarium is simply a
short term increase in the amount of oxygen in the tank. You may be
treating the symptoms, but you're not curing the disease. Algae will
grow whenever the conditions are good for the algae.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Perhaps......but this is one way to erradicate it............and its
certainly a step in the right direction........since short of tossing
the plants there is no other process to eliminate it. Once eliminated
one still needs to ensure proper lights, lighting schedule and
parameters are in effect or it will come back again............Its a
treatment that does work for erradicating black algae. Its nio
different that say treating a fish for a disease that was caused by
something that could have been prevented and then not fixing the
situation that caused it in the first place...........I know I
erradicated it in my tanks and its never made a return since.......so
I have to think it treated more than the symtoms.

"AquariumFatasies" wrote in message
...

Brevity snips......

...You'll see it start to work
when bubbnles start to form and stream off.....and the longer you can
go without any current flow or filtration the better off. You can
also pull affected plants and flow HP on them outside the tank, allow
to remain damp for a bit, and then replace into the aquarium.
================================
I thought I might do that if it didn't work in the tank. I have a 5g cleaned
out and ready to use. The anubias are the worst effected. The extra algae
eaters are staring to make some inroads in the older tank set-up.

I'm already starting to see this black stuff and green algae starting in the
newly set-up 55g tank and there are hardly any fish in it. The mollies are
feasting on it. When I get out this week I have to pick up another test kit.
The water is a little less than half rainwater, so what the heck can be
feeding this algae in the new set-up is beyond me.
--
RM....
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö

"AquariumFatasies" wrote in message
...
On Dec 26, 2:58 pm, wrote:
Perhaps......but this is one way to erradicate it............and its
certainly a step in the right direction........since short of tossing
the plants there is no other process to eliminate it. Once eliminated
one still needs to ensure proper lights, lighting schedule and
parameters are in effect or it will come back again............Its a
treatment that does work for erradicating black algae. Its nio
different that say treating a fish for a disease that was caused by
something that could have been prevented and then not fixing the
situation that caused it in the first place...........I know I
erradicated it in my tanks and its never made a return since.......so
I have to think it treated more than the symtoms.
=================================
If I remove the worst plants and put them in the small tank I can use PP to
kill the darn stuff if HP doesn't do it.
--

RM....
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(o

On Dec 26, 6:49*pm, "Reel McKoi" wrote:
"AquariumFatasies" wrote in message

... On Dec 26, 2:58 pm, wrote:
Perhaps......but this is one way to erradicate it............and its
certainly a step in the right direction........since short of tossing
the plants there is no other process to eliminate it. Once eliminated
one still needs to ensure proper lights, lighting schedule and
parameters are in effect or it will come back again............Its a
treatment that does work for erradicating black algae. Its nio
different that say treating a fish for a disease that was caused by
something that could have been prevented and then not fixing the
situation that caused it in the first place...........I know I
erradicated it in my tanks and its never made a return since.......so
I have to think it treated more than *the symtoms.

=================================
If I remove the worst plants and put them in the small tank I can use PP to
kill the darn stuff if HP doesn't do it.
--

RM....
Zone 6. *Middle TN USA
~~~~ *}((((* *~~~ * }{{{{(o

Rain water sounds all fine and dandy, but rain water also contain a
plethora of all kinds of stuff some of which may fuel algae quicker
than normal. Not saying not to use it, but I persopnally would use
readily available means to buffer or adjust my PH than using rain
water if it was at all possible. Adding peat pillows will bring the
water down in ph and adding aragonite (calcium based sand ) will take
it up in PH........So it is all together feasible that you are feeding
the algae with the water your collecting..Take a parameter here and
there and they all add up to potential problems.......Its common
knowledge and accepted that dust that gets blown in a pond causes
algae blooms..........and dust certainly has all kinds of stuff in it
and its on a roof or in the air and it will wind up in rain water one
way or another.

On Dec 26, 2:37 pm, AquariumFatasies wrote:
On Dec 26, 2:58 pm, wrote:





On Dec 26, 6:30 am, AquariumFatasies wrote:

RM...........The way to do this treatment is shut off all filters and
powerheads. Fill syringe with HP and reaching inside tank flow the HP
on the affected plants leaves.........150-200 cc can be used. Flow HP
on any affected areas, filter outlets, plants, gravel etc
etc..............wait a few minutes until you see the treated areas
start to fizzle or produce tiny streams of bubbles............then
turn off the lights as HP's life is shortened drastically by light.
(Thats why its shipped in a brown container) and in approx 5 to 10
minutes restart minimal circulation / filtration............Treatment
can be repeated as many times as needed until its eliminated. ONce
treated you will notice the origianl black areas turn to a pink
color........just let it be, and in a few days this new "pink" algae
will just slough off and get picked up by the filter media. The pink
is killed algae and is harmless.

There is a few plants that do not tolerate this very well but you
really have nothing to lose since the plant is doomed anyhow once
black algae gets on it as there really is no other way to kill the
algae without killing said plant............most plants hjowever do
handle HP just fine..but you may find some leaves that appear to be
eaten away or just have the veins of the leaf left and all green
l;eafy matter is missing. That was just part and parcel of the effects
of the black algae as it was killing the soft tissue and it was
history anyhow............Don't despair, if some plants appear to be
melted away as odds are they will recoup, and regenerate new growth
just fine. My tank IIRC looked like a war zone for about 1 week
afterwards, but I applied HP at a very high liberal rate and had huge
amazon swords and madagascar lace plants, anubia, ludwiga, cobomba,
hornwart and vals in the tank, I had treated my cichlid tank first off
and then my community tank as well........fish involved were typical
mBunas, neons, corys, pleco and angels and some guppies.......all came
out ok except for a guppy or two, and I am not so sure it was HP that
caused their demise as they were older females that I had for some
time.

Leave filtration and circulation off for as long as you can without
stressing the fish.......any HP that enters intothe overall water
column will work on any other black algae in the tank , but its much
slower and takes a lot longer and odds are will not do as good as
direct flow on of HP with a syringe....The more you can flowo n at a
time the better thats why I say a 50 or 60 cc syringe is best in place
of the smaller 5 or 10 cc ones.............You'll see it start to work
when bubbnles start to form and stream off.....and the longer you can
go without any current flow or filtration the better off. You can
also pull affected plants and flow HP on them outside the tank, allow
to remain damp for a bit, and then replace into the aquarium.

Regards

2 H2O2 $B"*(B 2 H2O + O2

The effects of putting hydrogen peroxide into an aquarium is simply a
short term increase in the amount of oxygen in the tank. You may be
treating the symptoms, but you're not curing the disease. Algae will
grow whenever the conditions are good for the algae.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Perhaps......but this is one way to erradicate it............and its
certainly a step in the right direction........since short of tossing
the plants there is no other process to eliminate it. Once eliminated
one still needs to ensure proper lights, lighting schedule and
parameters are in effect or it will come back again............Its a
treatment that does work for erradicating black algae. Its nio
different that say treating a fish for a disease that was caused by
something that could have been prevented and then not fixing the
situation that caused it in the first place...........I know I
erradicated it in my tanks and its never made a return since.......so
I have to think it treated more than the symtoms.

The H2O2 didn't do anything more than short term destruction of algae.
The algae will grow whenever the conditions are good for it to grow.
You basically said the same thing yourself.

I told my dentist I haven't had any cavities since I started driving a
Ford.

On Dec 26, 5:49*pm, "Reel McKoi" wrote:
"AquariumFatasies" wrote in message

... On Dec 26, 2:58 pm, wrote:
Perhaps......but this is one way to erradicate it............and its
certainly a step in the right direction........since short of tossing
the plants there is no other process to eliminate it. Once eliminated
one still needs to ensure proper lights, lighting schedule and
parameters are in effect or it will come back again............Its a
treatment that does work for erradicating black algae. Its nio
different that say treating a fish for a disease that was caused by
something that could have been prevented and then not fixing the
situation that caused it in the first place...........I know I
erradicated it in my tanks and its never made a return since.......so
I have to think it treated more than *the symtoms.

=================================
If I remove the worst plants and put them in the small tank I can use PP to
kill the darn stuff if HP doesn't do it.
--

RM....
Zone 6. *Middle TN USA
~~~~ *}((((* *~~~ * }{{{{(o

H2O2 and KMnO4 are both strong oxidizers.

"AquariumFatasies" wrote in message
...

Rain water sounds all fine and dandy, but rain water also contain a
plethora of all kinds of stuff some of which may fuel algae quicker
than normal.

* I've noticed that and I live many miles from any big cities. I see algae
growing in the ran tubs outside under the Garage and outbuilding eves.

Not saying not to use it, but I persopnally would use
readily available means to buffer or adjust my PH than using rain
water if it was at all possible. Adding peat pillows will bring the
water down in ph and adding aragonite (calcium based sand ) will take
it up in PH........

* I'm aware of these things Roy but when I tried it years ago and it was
total aggravation as the PH never stayed stable. All I was doing was
fiddling with the Peat-pillows and PH-UP and the test kits. Water changes
were a nightmare as the water from the tap was always so different than
whatever the tanks were at that particular day. It wasn't worth it. And I
didn't like the looks of the tinted water. The rain water (slightly acidic)
drops both the PH and hardness, costs nothing, has no color and stays
stable.

So it is all together feasible that you are feeding
the algae with the water your collecting..Take a parameter here and
there and they all add up to potential problems.......Its common
knowledge and accepted that dust that gets blown in a pond causes
algae blooms..........and dust certainly has all kinds of stuff in it
and its on a roof or in the air and it will wind up in rain water one
way or another.

* I'm going to collect rain water for the tanks from the greenhouse roof
from now on. Almost nothing collects on the slick polycarbonate, unlike the
shingles on the other roofs. The water I've been using is from the Garage
roof. That's the stuff I see the algae in. I'll use that water for the
greenhouse plants. :-)
--

RM....
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö

wrote in message
...
On Dec 26, 5:49 pm, "Reel McKoi" wrote:
If I remove the worst plants and put them in the small tank I can use PP
to
kill the darn stuff if HP doesn't do it.
--

RM....
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(o

H2O2 and KMnO4 are both strong oxidizers.
=====================
What are they? Sorry, I'm not a chemist.
--
RM....
Zone 6. Middle TN USA
~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö