How do I have a brightly-lit tank without algae?

Hello,

I have a 220 litre (24" cube) Malawi cichlid tank (see
http://fish.alansilver.co.uk/Mark3/G...fault.asp?img=
tank_040217_01.jpg for an out-of-date picture) that is suffering from a
green algae problem.

I'm fairly certain that the problem is caused by the amount and/or type
of lights. The tank has two 24" fluorescent lights, one white and one
blue, plus three 40 watt halogen spotlights. This is all because the
tank is in a corner away from any natural light and we want to be able
to see the fish!!

Anyway, the tank is fairly covered in very short hairy green algae. I
have to clean the glass at least once a week, or it gets too mucky to
see inside. The background is quite covered in algae as well. This isn't
too terrible as it looks more natural, but it does make the tank dark.

So, any suggestions? I know I could cut down on the amount of light, but
I want to keep it bright. Would different types of lights help? If so,
what?

I have an Ancistrus bristlenose catfish in there and it is pretty busy,
but it doesn't seem to be able to keep up with the algae growth. I
wondered about adding another, or even a Plec, but I don't know if that
would be the answer.

Any suggestions greatly welcome. TIA.

--
Alan Silver
(anything added below this line is nothing to do with me)

"Alan Silver" wrote in message
news snip that is suffering from a
green algae problem.
snip
Any suggestions greatly welcome. TIA.


First thing to do is cut down on the amount of time the light is on. Have
the lights turn on later in the day, and off earlier. More frequent water
changes will reduce the amount of nitrates in the tank which will help with
algae growth. Being that's it's a Mbuna tank, (which is too small IMO, but I
covered that a few months ago) adding fish or shrimp that eat hair algae
probably isn't an option. Plus, adding more to the tank can add to the
problem with a higher bio-load.
Test the phosphate levels in the tank. You can buy filter material that
removes phosphates if you have phosphates in the tank. Phosphates are a big
contributor to hair algae. Hair algae is difficult to get rid of and off
requires removing it by hand. Don't wipe it down and let it float off into
the tank, else it will eventuall reattach or send off pieces to grow
elsewhere. It needs to be removed. ;-)
Not real enlightening, but it's all I've got.
Tim
www.fishaholics.org

Tim,

Thanks for the reply. I have already cut down the lighting hours, so
that's not really an option. I do pretty regular water changes too and
the water quality is good. I haven't tested for phosphates though, so
that could be an option.

I don't know if this is hair algae as it's very short. I thought hair
algae tended to be longer, like hair (!!).

Would the type of lighting be a factor? I am thinking of changing the
halogen lights for fluorescents anyway as the halogens produce too much
heat. Would this help the algae problem?

Thanks again.

alan

First thing to do is cut down on the amount of time the light is on. Have
the lights turn on later in the day, and off earlier. More frequent water
changes will reduce the amount of nitrates in the tank which will help with
algae growth. Being that's it's a Mbuna tank, (which is too small IMO, but I
covered that a few months ago) adding fish or shrimp that eat hair algae
probably isn't an option. Plus, adding more to the tank can add to the
problem with a higher bio-load.
Test the phosphate levels in the tank. You can buy filter material that
removes phosphates if you have phosphates in the tank. Phosphates are a big
contributor to hair algae. Hair algae is difficult to get rid of and off
requires removing it by hand. Don't wipe it down and let it float off into
the tank, else it will eventuall reattach or send off pieces to grow
elsewhere. It needs to be removed. ;-)
Not real enlightening, but it's all I've got.
Tim
www.fishaholics.org



--
Alan Silver
(anything added below this line is nothing to do with me)

On Thu, 5 May 2005 14:42:29 +0100, Alan Silver
wrote:

Would the type of lighting be a factor? I am thinking of changing the
halogen lights for fluorescents anyway as the halogens produce too much
heat. Would this help the algae problem?

My halogen spots don't cause a problem. They are on for about 16 hours
a day. I don't use fluorescent lights. Maybe they are your problem.

Steve

Would the type of lighting be a factor? I am thinking of changing the
halogen lights for fluorescents anyway as the halogens produce too much
heat. Would this help the algae problem?

My halogen spots don't cause a problem. They are on for about 16 hours
a day. I don't use fluorescent lights. Maybe they are your problem.

Dunno, fluorescents are the standard for fish tanks, they aren't
generally known for causing algae problems.

Maybe I'll have to add a Plec and see if that helps. They are supposed
to be good algae eaters.

--
Alan Silver
(anything added below this line is nothing to do with me)

"Alan Silver" wrote in message
...
Would the type of lighting be a factor? I am thinking of changing the
halogen lights for fluorescents anyway as the halogens produce too much
heat. Would this help the algae problem?

My halogen spots don't cause a problem. They are on for about 16 hours
a day. I don't use fluorescent lights. Maybe they are your problem.

Dunno, fluorescents are the standard for fish tanks, they aren't
generally known for causing algae problems.

Maybe I'll have to add a Plec and see if that helps. They are supposed
to be good algae eaters.

--
Alan Silver
(anything added below this line is nothing to do with me)

I've got the same problem as you in my Malawi tank...it's a bit like a green
carpet on the rocks and substrate. It's not slimy or anything so does seem a
little bit like hair algae - it's a very bright green. The front of the tank
needs doing a couple of times a week. Ammonia is 0, nitrite 0 and nitrate
around 10. Of course there are only a couple of plants. Do a 10-20% water
change each week.

I've got a Pl*co but although he is working on the back of the tank the job
seems to be beyond him.....

I'm wondering if it is Phosphate level after reading Tim's posting (thanks
Tim)

I'll continue following this thread. Please let me know how you get on

Gill

On Thu, 5 May 2005 16:41:23 +0100, Alan Silver
wrote:

Would the type of lighting be a factor? I am thinking of changing the
halogen lights for fluorescents anyway as the halogens produce too much
heat. Would this help the algae problem?

My halogen spots don't cause a problem. They are on for about 16 hours
a day. I don't use fluorescent lights. Maybe they are your problem.

Dunno, fluorescents are the standard for fish tanks, they aren't
generally known for causing algae problems.


"Standard" or not, try using just the halogens for a while. If the
algae starts to fade away don't forget that dead algae can also be a
problem so keep it cleared out.

Maybe I'll have to add a Plec and see if that helps. They are supposed
to be good algae eaters.

Plecs are not as good at algae clearing as bristlenose and you already
have one of them. Get another one. If you get a pair they will breed.
OTOH Plecs will never breed in a tank.

BTW what sort of Malawi cichlids are they? Most of the common Mbuna
eat algae, especially if no easier food is supplied. If they have
other food they won't eat the algae - why scrape rocks when flakes are
around. Mbuna fed on algae turn on their best colours.


--
Steve Wolstenholme Neural Planner Software

EasyNN-plus. The easy way to build neural networks.
http://www.easynn.com

"Alan Silver" wrote in message
news
Hello,


Hi Allan

First off, I think that is ALOT of light for that tank. If you must keep all
that light then shorten the photo period (only put the lights on at night
while you are home, no need for them to be on all day long. Try to angle the
lights so they are shining toward the back of the tank and not onto the
front glass. Really no need for all that light on a Malawi setup, unless
you're growing marijuana at the base of the tank HTH
--
Kind Regards
Cameron

First off, I think that is ALOT of light for that tank.

I know, but the whole point of the tank is for it to be seen, and with
less light, it just doesn't show up. With the higher light, it looks
stunning.

Anyway, I would have thought this was fairly low compared with the
African sunshine, no? I don't know how that rates in wattage, but I can
look directly at the lights above my tank, I can't do that to the sun
here in England, so the African sun would be way brighter.

If you must keep all
that light then shorten the photo period (only put the lights on at night
while you are home, no need for them to be on all day long.

Problem there is that the tank is in a room that is occupied most of the
day. Ideally we would like the lights on all day long as the room is
used from about 7:30am pretty much non-stop until about 11pm. We have
compromised and cut the photo period back to about 2pm to 10pm.

Try to angle the
lights so they are shining toward the back of the tank and not onto the
front glass.

Already done that. The halogens were pointed more at the middle and back
of the tank. I just changes them for some less directional lights, but
they are still over the middle of the tank.

Really no need for all that light on a Malawi setup, unless
you're growing marijuana at the base of the tank HTH

I didn't know it grew under water!! Not that I want doped fish... unless
it might calm them down a bit!! I could do with getting Biffer to mellow
out a bit, he's always chasing the other fish around. Beautiful fish,
but a bully.

Thanks for the reply.

--
Alan Silver
(anything added below this line is nothing to do with me)