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restoring older 55 set up, advise please...



 
 
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  #1  
Old February 16th 06, 07:19 PM posted to rec.aquaria.freshwater.misc
external usenet poster
 
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Default restoring older 55 set up, advise please...


NetMax wrote:
New silicone does not stick to old silicone, so it is always a question
as to where to end the new bead. I would cut away any imbrittled
silicone from the inside and lay a fresh new bead down.


Thanks, will do and will do the whole thing with out disassembling.

Top frame don't normally leak, unless you have a capilary action going
on.


I think it is because I had it way overfilled (to the very top) to see
if level dropped. It won't normally be *that* full.

Might be a leak on the sides, under the top frame?


I think I have that too, I'll just cut away and resel all sides top and
bottom to be uniform, thorough, and safe. Tank is outside now with a
trail of water running from it over night.


Q: If I want to be a cheap-0 what is a good way to make (or buy) a hood
that I can put the two 10 gal lamps on top of? I want it to look clean
but not fancy. PetCo here has a 55 fluorescent hood for $100, Ouch!


Glass plates and then you can fit a variety of hoods on


I should have said "home made cannopy" as I have a couple lights to put
on it.

Q: Any web sites with plans ideas to make a simple but clean cannopy
from wood or glass or whatever. I can't imagine how to make glass
plates that have a space for (hang on back) filter, heater, etc... I
have lots of cats that are mezmorized by the fish so i can't have very
big gaps at top of tank.

ps: plastic plants, air pumps, and probably the ornaments and gravel are
what I usually leave in a box somewhere.


Hmmm, I find that interesting because if I were to go to WalMart (or
pet/fish store) and bought (about 15) plastic plants, (about 12 med)
rocks, and (about 6) ornaments this stuff would cost well over a
hundred or closer to two hundred bucks! These were not dingy from
algae, just sandy which cleaned off very well.

Thanks all for the fabulous ideas so far, it's going well, the stand is
"tightened up" and repainted with speckle, filter and heater are clean
and been "test" running all night outside. Gravel, plants and ornaments
are clean and ready for the new home.... STay tuned for more "Live"
updates!

GodSpeed, Karl.

  #2  
Old February 16th 06, 07:35 PM posted to rec.aquaria.freshwater.misc
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default restoring older 55 set up, advise please...

wrote in message
oups.com...

NetMax wrote:
New silicone does not stick to old silicone, so it is always a question
as to where to end the new bead. I would cut away any imbrittled
silicone from the inside and lay a fresh new bead down.


Thanks, will do and will do the whole thing with out disassembling.

Top frame don't normally leak, unless you have a capilary action going
on.


I think it is because I had it way overfilled (to the very top) to see
if level dropped. It won't normally be *that* full.

Might be a leak on the sides, under the top frame?


I think I have that too, I'll just cut away and resel all sides top and
bottom to be uniform, thorough, and safe. Tank is outside now with a
trail of water running from it over night.


Q: If I want to be a cheap-0 what is a good way to make (or buy) a hood
that I can put the two 10 gal lamps on top of? I want it to look clean
but not fancy. PetCo here has a 55 fluorescent hood for $100, Ouch!


Glass plates and then you can fit a variety of hoods on


I should have said "home made cannopy" as I have a couple lights to put
on it.

Q: Any web sites with plans ideas to make a simple but clean cannopy
from wood or glass or whatever. I can't imagine how to make glass
plates that have a space for (hang on back) filter, heater, etc... I
have lots of cats that are mezmorized by the fish so i can't have very
big gaps at top of tank.


Regarding the glass plates, many pet shops sell plastic strips, 3" wide,
sold by the foot. You attach that to the glass, and make cut-outs for your
equipment. The glass panel 'grid' includes some fixed plates with a small
glass 'shelf' to hold the other plates, which slide, angle or are partials
with the aformentioned plastic strips. I have some designs on my web site,
but my server is down right now. Visiting an LFS will give you some ideas
on their construction. They are quite cat-proof.

ps: plastic plants, air pumps, and probably the ornaments and gravel are
what I usually leave in a box somewhere.


Hmmm, I find that interesting because if I were to go to WalMart (or
pet/fish store) and bought (about 15) plastic plants, (about 12 med)
rocks, and (about 6) ornaments this stuff would cost well over a
hundred or closer to two hundred bucks! These were not dingy from
algae, just sandy which cleaned off very well.


Usually (ime) free tanks come with huge rainbow coloured flourescent gravel
and plastic plants which only remotely look like plants ;~). I do have a
box of plastic plants which I dig into periodically, to hide some feature in
a dimly lit corner. I prefer silk plants if they will be more visible, but
whatever works for you.
--
www.NetMax.tk

Thanks all for the fabulous ideas so far, it's going well, the stand is
"tightened up" and repainted with speckle, filter and heater are clean
and been "test" running all night outside. Gravel, plants and ornaments
are clean and ready for the new home.... STay tuned for more "Live"
updates!

GodSpeed, Karl.



  #3  
Old February 16th 06, 09:07 PM posted to rec.aquaria.freshwater.misc
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default restoring older 55 set up, advise please...

On 16 Feb 2006 11:19:14 -0800, wrote:


NetMax wrote:
New silicone does not stick to old silicone, so it is always a question
as to where to end the new bead. I would cut away any imbrittled
silicone from the inside and lay a fresh new bead down.


Thanks, will do and will do the whole thing with out disassembling.

Top frame don't normally leak, unless you have a capilary action going
on.


I think it is because I had it way overfilled (to the very top) to see
if level dropped. It won't normally be *that* full.

Might be a leak on the sides, under the top frame?


I think I have that too, I'll just cut away and resel all sides top and
bottom to be uniform, thorough, and safe. Tank is outside now with a
trail of water running from it over night.


Q: If I want to be a cheap-0 what is a good way to make (or buy) a hood
that I can put the two 10 gal lamps on top of? I want it to look clean
but not fancy. PetCo here has a 55 fluorescent hood for $100, Ouch!


Glass plates and then you can fit a variety of hoods on


I should have said "home made cannopy" as I have a couple lights to put
on it.

Q: Any web sites with plans ideas to make a simple but clean cannopy
from wood or glass or whatever. I can't imagine how to make glass
plates that have a space for (hang on back) filter, heater, etc... I
have lots of cats that are mezmorized by the fish so i can't have very
big gaps at top of tank.

ps: plastic plants, air pumps, and probably the ornaments and gravel are
what I usually leave in a box somewhere.


Hmmm, I find that interesting because if I were to go to WalMart (or
pet/fish store) and bought (about 15) plastic plants, (about 12 med)
rocks, and (about 6) ornaments this stuff would cost well over a
hundred or closer to two hundred bucks! These were not dingy from
algae, just sandy which cleaned off very well.

Thanks all for the fabulous ideas so far, it's going well, the stand is
"tightened up" and repainted with speckle, filter and heater are clean
and been "test" running all night outside. Gravel, plants and ornaments
are clean and ready for the new home.... STay tuned for more "Live"
updates!

GodSpeed, Karl.



Canopy plans:

http://www.ahsupply.com/diy.htm

For the back where the heaters and air lines go, you can buy just the
plastic part that goes with the normal glass tops. I got some from
either

www.petsolutions.com

or

www.thatfishplace.com

I can't remember which.
 




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