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I've had a 25 gallon tank going for two and a half years now with less
than an inch of crushed coral. The tank happily houses a 6" diameter BTA, a 4" diameter rose BTA, a few sexy shrimp, a coral banded shrimp, some colony polyps, a black long spined urchen, three clowns, a royal gramma, and temproraily a baby blue tang (which will be moved into my 100 gallon tank when he gets bigger). The tank regularly reads 0 nitrite and less than 5 ppm nitrate. The tank is an Eclipse system 3, with a hood that has been retrofitted with a 65 watt power compact light (50/50 10000k/actinic). I also use the bio-wheel that is built into the hood, though I know many will claim the bio-wheel leads to high nitrates. In my particular case that doesn't seem to be true. I don't use a skimmer. The only problem with this setup is that it grows green hair algae. A lot of green hair algae. I do water changes every two weeks (20%) and usually spend about twenty minutes picking algae off the rocks with a pair of big tweesers. I do have a deep sand bed in my 100 gallon tank with 55 gallon sump, but really only because I wanted to house a sand shifting starfish and they require pretty deep sand. The starfish does a fantastic job keeping the surface of the sand looking clean, whereas my crushed coral in the 25 gallon tank is rather brownish. I'm pretty sure the algae growth is due to excessive nutrients in the water as I feed the anemones rather large chunks of shrimp or scallop every other day to compensate for the rather weak light. I'm considering upgrading to a 96 watt T5 system (my research indicates that this is roughly equivilant to 130 watts of power compact) and replacing the bio-wheel with a prism skimmer. I have no plans to deepen the sand bed. I think that the reason the tank works is probably due to the algae. Algae can complete the nitrogen cycle just like the anerobic bacteria in deep sand beds can. I have a bit of macro algae growing in the tank and every time I harvest some of the green hair algae it gets a bit bigger. Hopefully eventually the macro will be the dominant one and inhibit the growth of the hair algae. Another way to avoid needing a deep sand bed would be to have a bunch of live rock in areas in the tank were there isn't much water circulation. The main thing is to have areas where anerobic bacteria can live. This means having areas of the tank where the water does not contain much oxygen. In a deep sand bed the water two or three inches below the surface of the sand doesn't have much oxygen in it, which is why it supports anerobic bacteria which do the job of converting nitrate in to good old harmless nitrogen. Hope you were able to gleam some useful information from this long winded reply. Best of luck! Blake. wrote: Hi, Anyone have an opinion on the next best alternative to a DSB? I just don't like the appearance of 4" of sand, or 2" for that matter. No offense meant--I know most of you use this method. But I've had a 30 gallon FOWLR with 3/4" of crushed coral and a canister filter running for 10 years with zero nitrates, so I don't see the value of a DSB for me. Now that I'm upgrading to a larger tank, I would like to replace the crushed coral with a thin layer of some type of a finer grain sand for the sake of appearance. Or should I just stick with what has worked for me? Or maybe, mix the two. Any suggestions? Thanks, Grant |
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