blue betta

Nikki wrote:
"IDzine01" wrote in message
oups.com...
There is a difference between fin loss and fin rot but it isn't always
very obvious how to tell them apart. Fin rot is a bacterial infection
and often occurs due to poor water conditions. Bettas are extremely
susceptible to it and it's not uncommon for even seasoned veterans to
have to deal with it from time to time. General fin loss or tearing
(pin holes too) may occur if your betta snags his fins on something or
from flaring. Fin rot can often be identified by black or bloodied fin
tips. Often chunks of fins will just slough off. They are often
characteristically tattered at the ends as well. The signs of fin rot
may be less obvious with darker colored or red bettas.

http://www.nippyfish.net/finlossfinrot.html

Ok, let me give you a quick update, he (Mr. blue betta) is swimming a bit
today, I was surprised after yesterday, it has also made it a little easier
to see all the fins, it was hard when he was sitting at the bottom of the
tank. I think they are just pinholes, if you took the pinholes away his
tail/fin would look completely normal, no snags, rips, or anything along
those lines, just pinholes. I see what you are saying now (the difference
between rot/pinholes). Another good thing is this morning he took a few
pieces of food, I have had him for a week, and he was in a cup at the store,
so I don't know that he could of got snagged on anything, but the water in
the cup had a film on top, not sure from what, maybe that has something to
do with it.
He is not as active as the others, however he does not look like he might
die at any moment as he did yesterday.
We had been talking about ich, I have a question, I know you can not kill it
when its on the fish, the meds kill it when it falls off the fish and is in
the rocks, if I understand right you can kill ich with high temps, so when
it falls off the betta, and is in the rocks, could you not empty out the
tank and boil the rocks, which would kill it or at least lessen the time you
need to use the medication, is that right or not, I see where it would not
be reasonable to do this in a big tank with a lot of stuff in it, but in a
QT ???
Let me know if you have a minute
Thanks for the help Nikki

At 82F, a display tank with no fish is ich-free after about four days -
seven at the outside. The swimming parasites (tomites) die in a couple
of days without a fish host. You kill ich in a Q-tank by letting it dry
completely. I don't know about boiling - I've never read anything one
way or the other. I'd be more inclined to use 5% bleach, dechlorinate,
and dry everything.

Supposedly, one of the ways of treating ich without medicine is to
transfer the fish from tank to tank, moving them daily. As they are
shed the cysts are left behind, at the bottom of the tank. The
procedure is to remove all the fish to the first QT tank at 80F. After
a day, you move them to a second warmed QT and sterilize the first. The
next day, you move the fish to the clean tank and disinfect the other.
You're supposed to move the fish back and forth for seven days and then
they can go home.

I've never tried it because my QT tank is usually not big enough for all
the fish in my display tank. It also sounds stressful for both me and
the fish. And somehow you'd have to try to keep the main tank filter
alive with ammonia.

--
Put the word aquaria in the subject to reply.
Did you read the FAQ? http://faq.thekrib.com

On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 18:54:38 GMT, Altum
wrote:


Supposedly, one of the ways of treating ich without medicine is to
transfer the fish from tank to tank, moving them daily. As they are
shed the cysts are left behind, at the bottom of the tank. The
procedure is to remove all the fish to the first QT tank at 80F. After
a day, you move them to a second warmed QT and sterilize the first. The
next day, you move the fish to the clean tank and disinfect the other.
You're supposed to move the fish back and forth for seven days and then
they can go home.

I've never tried it because my QT tank is usually not big enough for all
the fish in my display tank. It also sounds stressful for both me and
the fish. And somehow you'd have to try to keep the main tank filter
alive with ammonia.

I've never tried it either, because I never heard of it until a couple
of weeks ago right here, where it took about a dozen patient writers
to explain it to me. The multiple bucket method. I envision doing it
with multiple 5 gallon white buckets with the Tru Value Hardware logo
on the sides, of which I seem to have an endless supply. It looks like
work for me, stress for the fish, drinking stations for the dogs and
entertainment for the cats. This is one of those aquarium treatments
where I am perfectly happy with the chemical approach, to heck with
the all natural solution.


-- Mister Gardener

"Mr. Gardener" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 18:54:38 GMT, Altum
wrote:


Supposedly, one of the ways of treating ich without medicine is to
transfer the fish from tank to tank, moving them daily. As they are
shed the cysts are left behind, at the bottom of the tank. The
procedure is to remove all the fish to the first QT tank at 80F. After
a day, you move them to a second warmed QT and sterilize the first. The
next day, you move the fish to the clean tank and disinfect the other.
You're supposed to move the fish back and forth for seven days and then
they can go home.

I've never tried it because my QT tank is usually not big enough for all
the fish in my display tank. It also sounds stressful for both me and
the fish. And somehow you'd have to try to keep the main tank filter
alive with ammonia.

I've never tried it either, because I never heard of it until a couple
of weeks ago right here, where it took about a dozen patient writers
to explain it to me. The multiple bucket method. I envision doing it
with multiple 5 gallon white buckets with the Tru Value Hardware logo
on the sides, of which I seem to have an endless supply. It looks like
work for me, stress for the fish, drinking stations for the dogs and
entertainment for the cats. This is one of those aquarium treatments
where I am perfectly happy with the chemical approach, to heck with
the all natural solution.


-- Mister Gardener


What i was wondering was if the tank is small enough like 5 gl, (now im not
sure because of the filter i dont know if ich gets in there) but when the
ich falls from the fish 2-3rd day, from what i heard you guys say its in the
rocks, could you not put the fish (betta) in a containter and empty out tank
and boil rocks since ich dies in high temps (i think it does) that is what i
was trying to ask, i see where this would be crazy in a big tank just to
treat ich when you could just use meds, but in a small tank, it was just a
thought, Nikki

PS: what does every one else use for nets and stuff between tanks, so ich
does not spread.

Nikki wrote:
"Mr. Gardener" wrote in message
...

On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 18:54:38 GMT, Altum
wrote:



Supposedly, one of the ways of treating ich without medicine is to
transfer the fish from tank to tank, moving them daily. As they are
shed the cysts are left behind, at the bottom of the tank. The
procedure is to remove all the fish to the first QT tank at 80F. After
a day, you move them to a second warmed QT and sterilize the first. The
next day, you move the fish to the clean tank and disinfect the other.
You're supposed to move the fish back and forth for seven days and then
they can go home.

I've never tried it because my QT tank is usually not big enough for all
the fish in my display tank. It also sounds stressful for both me and
the fish. And somehow you'd have to try to keep the main tank filter
alive with ammonia.

I've never tried it either, because I never heard of it until a couple
of weeks ago right here, where it took about a dozen patient writers
to explain it to me. The multiple bucket method. I envision doing it
with multiple 5 gallon white buckets with the Tru Value Hardware logo
on the sides, of which I seem to have an endless supply. It looks like
work for me, stress for the fish, drinking stations for the dogs and
entertainment for the cats. This is one of those aquarium treatments
where I am perfectly happy with the chemical approach, to heck with
the all natural solution.


-- Mister Gardener



What i was wondering was if the tank is small enough like 5 gl, (now im not
sure because of the filter i dont know if ich gets in there) but when the
ich falls from the fish 2-3rd day, from what i heard you guys say its in the
rocks, could you not put the fish (betta) in a containter and empty out tank
and boil rocks since ich dies in high temps (i think it does) that is what i
was trying to ask, i see where this would be crazy in a big tank just to
treat ich when you could just use meds, but in a small tank, it was just a
thought, Nikki

PS: what does every one else use for nets and stuff between tanks, so ich
does not spread.



One advocated treatment of ich (med free) is to move the fish between
bare bottomed tanks (clean fresh water each time) - the theory being
that the ich can only survive if they find a fish host...so yes,
probably in a small scale opertation you might defeat it by moving the
fish between tanks and thoroughly cleaning and sterilising the
environment - you are right though that it would not be very practical
in a large tank...

I make sure that everything is bleached (or at the very least well
rinsed in chlorinated water) when I use equipment between my tanks - I
probably should always ensure the disinfecting of the stuff (but most of
my tanks have had no additions for many, many months and the fish are
healthy - but I still should adhere to things). Stuff like gravel vacs
etc are kept for each tank - costs a bit more but stops cross infection...

Ich will spread in water but dies in air - so make sure that your
syphons and vacs are clear of water, thoroughly rinsed/disinfected
before using in another tank....nets, especially if used to remove dead
fish should be disinfected (I use bleach)...Ich can get into your tanks
even through the addition of plants or anything containing store water
(or water from an infected tank) - I usually give my plants a weak
bleach bath before moving them into another tank...

Good luck....

gill

On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 21:33:42 +0000, Gill Passman
wrote:


I make sure that everything is bleached (or at the very least well
rinsed in chlorinated water) when I use equipment between my tanks - I
probably should always ensure the disinfecting of the stuff (but most of
my tanks have had no additions for many, many months and the fish are
healthy - but I still should adhere to things). Stuff like gravel vacs
etc are kept for each tank - costs a bit more but stops cross infection...

Ich will spread in water but dies in air - so make sure that your
syphons and vacs are clear of water, thoroughly rinsed/disinfected
before using in another tank....nets, especially if used to remove dead
fish should be disinfected (I use bleach)...Ich can get into your tanks
even through the addition of plants or anything containing store water
(or water from an infected tank) - I usually give my plants a weak
bleach bath before moving them into another tank...

Good luck....

gill
Well, at least I've got the air drying part right.

-- Mister Gardener

On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 16:15:27 -0500, "Nikki"
wrote:


"Mr. Gardener" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 18:54:38 GMT, Altum
wrote:


Supposedly, one of the ways of treating ich without medicine is to
transfer the fish from tank to tank, moving them daily. As they are
shed the cysts are left behind, at the bottom of the tank. The
procedure is to remove all the fish to the first QT tank at 80F. After
a day, you move them to a second warmed QT and sterilize the first. The
next day, you move the fish to the clean tank and disinfect the other.
You're supposed to move the fish back and forth for seven days and then
they can go home.

I've never tried it because my QT tank is usually not big enough for all
the fish in my display tank. It also sounds stressful for both me and
the fish. And somehow you'd have to try to keep the main tank filter
alive with ammonia.

I've never tried it either, because I never heard of it until a couple
of weeks ago right here, where it took about a dozen patient writers
to explain it to me. The multiple bucket method. I envision doing it
with multiple 5 gallon white buckets with the Tru Value Hardware logo
on the sides, of which I seem to have an endless supply. It looks like
work for me, stress for the fish, drinking stations for the dogs and
entertainment for the cats. This is one of those aquarium treatments
where I am perfectly happy with the chemical approach, to heck with
the all natural solution.


-- Mister Gardener


What i was wondering was if the tank is small enough like 5 gl, (now im not
sure because of the filter i dont know if ich gets in there) but when the
ich falls from the fish 2-3rd day, from what i heard you guys say its in the
rocks, could you not put the fish (betta) in a containter and empty out tank
and boil rocks since ich dies in high temps (i think it does) that is what i
was trying to ask, i see where this would be crazy in a big tank just to
treat ich when you could just use meds, but in a small tank, it was just a
thought, Nikki

PS: what does every one else use for nets and stuff between tanks, so ich
does not spread.

Since I've encountered ich once in my 40 years, my nets simply hang on
separate hooks where they air dry. During the very occasional times
when I'm cleaning stuff with bleach, like preparing a new tank, I'll
stick the nets in there for a few minutes. I know that I will pay for
my laziness someday, but so far, so good.

-- Mister Gardener

"Nikki" wrote in message
...

PS: what does every one else use for nets and stuff between tanks, so ich
does not spread.
========================
Nets are cheap so I have about 10 of different sizes. I keep my Q tank nets
separate from my regular nets. I still rinse them in our 140F water after
use. If both Q tanks are in use I soak the nets in a Potassium Permanganate
solution in case one tank may have an infested fish and not the other. I
treat all new fish as though they were Typhoid Marys.
--
Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
http://tinyurl.com/9do58
~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o

Koi-Lo wrote:
"Nikki" wrote in message
...

PS: what does every one else use for nets and stuff between tanks, so ich
does not spread.
========================
Nets are cheap so I have about 10 of different sizes. I keep my Q tank nets
separate from my regular nets. I still rinse them in our 140F water after
use. If both Q tanks are in use I soak the nets in a Potassium Permanganate
solution in case one tank may have an infested fish and not the other.
--
Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
http://tinyurl.com/9do58
~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o

KoiLo wrote:

I
treat all new fish as though they were Typhoid Marys.

LOL....that's a good way of putting it. I too feel the same way.
I quarantine everything new coming in with the thought that do have
something and treat everything else that comes into contact with the Q
tank the same way.
Although, as carefull as I am, I have had the occasional brainfart a
couple times.
I recently either cross contaminated my Q tank with a virus that hit my
Betta stock in the 75g, or the DoJo's were carrying it and once out of
qurantine they spread it to my Betta stock. All my other Betta stock is
fine. That is except one malle that had contact with one of the DoJos.
It had flopped out of the net on it's way into the Q tank and right
into the male Betta's tank next to it.
I wish I knew how it spread though. It would be good to know if it
could be spread by a carrier fish.
I've seen this (I think it's viral) disease once before.
Then too it only killed Bettas, and just as fast.
The last fish I had die on me I timed.
From onset of symptoms (visible), till death was 7 hours. However, of
course I have no way of knowing how long she was actually sick for
(incubation period?).
An area of body will become a little stiff, or fins act as if frozen or
paralized in a certain area. Then shortly after that the area becomes
black. If on the body the area stays black for a while even after
death.
If on finnage, shortly after turning black the area falls off.
Some fish will show either excess slime coat in a certain spot or that
bacterial infection look often mistaken for fungus. If the fish shows
this at all, it's very little and very faint.
You'd never notice it on a white fish either.
It seems to be that some hang on longer than others, and some croak as
soon as the black starts. Both times I had 98% deaths. I again have 2
females that have survived it.
(so far)
It's been a week since the last death, and I am obviously cautious to
even think of replacing stock now.
I don't know what this is, how long it's contagious for and if these
surviving girls are carriers just waiting to spread it healthy girls,
or are they now immune?
I may have to buy a Betta just in order to see if it's all clear in the
tank.
I won't risk the males I have left around the house. 2 are ancient and
the rest are breeding prospects, so forget them.
The only other male I had that I would even consider just died. Guess
he had other plans.
= /

"Tynk" wrote in message
oups.com...

Koi-Lo wrote:
"Nikki" wrote in message
...

PS: what does every one else use for nets and stuff between tanks, so
ich
does not spread.
========================
Nets are cheap so I have about 10 of different sizes. I keep my Q tank
nets
separate from my regular nets. I still rinse them in our 140F water after
use. If both Q tanks are in use I soak the nets in a Potassium
Permanganate
solution in case one tank may have an infested fish and not the other.
--
Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
http://tinyurl.com/9do58
~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o

KoiLo wrote:

I
treat all new fish as though they were Typhoid Marys.

LOL....that's a good way of putting it. I too feel the same way.
I quarantine everything new coming in with the thought that do have
something and treat everything else that comes into contact with the Q
tank the same way.
Although, as carefull as I am, I have had the occasional brainfart a
couple times.
I recently either cross contaminated my Q tank with a virus that hit my
Betta stock in the 75g, or the DoJo's were carrying it and once out of
qurantine they spread it to my Betta stock. All my other Betta stock is
fine. That is except one malle that had contact with one of the DoJos.
It had flopped out of the net on it's way into the Q tank and right
into the male Betta's tank next to it.
I wish I knew how it spread though. It would be good to know if it
could be spread by a carrier fish.
I've seen this (I think it's viral) disease once before.
Then too it only killed Bettas, and just as fast.
The last fish I had die on me I timed.
From onset of symptoms (visible), till death was 7 hours. However, of
course I have no way of knowing how long she was actually sick for
(incubation period?).
An area of body will become a little stiff, or fins act as if frozen or
paralized in a certain area. Then shortly after that the area becomes
black. If on the body the area stays black for a while even after
death.
If on finnage, shortly after turning black the area falls off.
Some fish will show either excess slime coat in a certain spot or that
bacterial infection look often mistaken for fungus. If the fish shows
this at all, it's very little and very faint.
You'd never notice it on a white fish either.
It seems to be that some hang on longer than others, and some croak as
soon as the black starts. Both times I had 98% deaths. I again have 2
females that have survived it.
(so far)
It's been a week since the last death, and I am obviously cautious to
even think of replacing stock now.
I don't know what this is, how long it's contagious for and if these
surviving girls are carriers just waiting to spread it healthy girls,
or are they now immune?
I may have to buy a Betta just in order to see if it's all clear in the
tank.
I won't risk the males I have left around the house. 2 are ancient and
the rest are breeding prospects, so forget them.
The only other male I had that I would even consider just died. Guess
he had other plans.
= /

Tynk, first sorry for so many questions.....how many female betta's can you
put in a 39-40 long? and have them get along, i dont mean for water quality,
well that to, but how many can live together and be happy? have you ever had
any problems (like male attitude) with them between eachother? also do they
thrive in the same conditions as males, 80 degrees, anything different from
the males except they can live together? i am going to get them this weekend
I'm pretty sure, i have seen the white female betta's they are very pretty.
also do they need a lot of hiding places and do they do better in a planted
tank? I was looking up info but every thing on them is centered around
breeding.
If you have a extra few minutes sometime can you let me know
again thanks Nik

Nikki wrote:
"Tynk" wrote in message
oups.com...

Koi-Lo wrote:
"Nikki" wrote in message
...

PS: what does every one else use for nets and stuff between tanks, so
ich
does not spread.
========================
Nets are cheap so I have about 10 of different sizes. I keep my Q tank
nets
separate from my regular nets. I still rinse them in our 140F water after
use. If both Q tanks are in use I soak the nets in a Potassium
Permanganate
solution in case one tank may have an infested fish and not the other.
--
Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
http://tinyurl.com/9do58
~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o

KoiLo wrote:

I
treat all new fish as though they were Typhoid Marys.

LOL....that's a good way of putting it. I too feel the same way.
I quarantine everything new coming in with the thought that do have
something and treat everything else that comes into contact with the Q
tank the same way.
Although, as carefull as I am, I have had the occasional brainfart a
couple times.
I recently either cross contaminated my Q tank with a virus that hit my
Betta stock in the 75g, or the DoJo's were carrying it and once out of
qurantine they spread it to my Betta stock. All my other Betta stock is
fine. That is except one malle that had contact with one of the DoJos.
It had flopped out of the net on it's way into the Q tank and right
into the male Betta's tank next to it.
I wish I knew how it spread though. It would be good to know if it
could be spread by a carrier fish.
I've seen this (I think it's viral) disease once before.
Then too it only killed Bettas, and just as fast.
The last fish I had die on me I timed.
From onset of symptoms (visible), till death was 7 hours. However, of
course I have no way of knowing how long she was actually sick for
(incubation period?).
An area of body will become a little stiff, or fins act as if frozen or
paralized in a certain area. Then shortly after that the area becomes
black. If on the body the area stays black for a while even after
death.
If on finnage, shortly after turning black the area falls off.
Some fish will show either excess slime coat in a certain spot or that
bacterial infection look often mistaken for fungus. If the fish shows
this at all, it's very little and very faint.
You'd never notice it on a white fish either.
It seems to be that some hang on longer than others, and some croak as
soon as the black starts. Both times I had 98% deaths. I again have 2
females that have survived it.
(so far)
It's been a week since the last death, and I am obviously cautious to
even think of replacing stock now.
I don't know what this is, how long it's contagious for and if these
surviving girls are carriers just waiting to spread it healthy girls,
or are they now immune?
I may have to buy a Betta just in order to see if it's all clear in the
tank.
I won't risk the males I have left around the house. 2 are ancient and
the rest are breeding prospects, so forget them.
The only other male I had that I would even consider just died. Guess
he had other plans.
= /


Hey Nikki = )

Tynk, first sorry for so many questions.....how many female betta's can you
put in a 39-40 long? and have them get along, i dont mean for water quality,
well that to, but how many can live together and be happy? have you ever had
any problems (like male attitude) with them between eachother? also do they
thrive in the same conditions as males, 80 degrees, anything different from
the males except they can live together? i am going to get them this weekend
I'm pretty sure, i have seen the white female betta's they are very pretty.
also do they need a lot of hiding places and do they do better in a planted
tank? I was looking up info but every thing on them is centered around
breeding.
If you have a extra few minutes sometime can you let me know
again thanks Nik

Let me start by saying never, and I mean NEVER be sorry for asking so
many question before doing in this hobby.
You have no clue as to how good that is of you right now. Before long
you'll see what I mean though.
Until then, ask away and as often as you need with your chin up. = )

Also let me say sorry if this gets long, but when it comes to Bettas
there is nothing written in stone, except for one thing. They're all
differrent! = )~

Because of this, many people will take the short route and say, "No,
you can't house a male with females...ever." Or, "A male will kill any
females not ready to spawn, so you can't keep them together."
Now it's very possible to have a male that is overly aggressive and
needs to be on his own. Period! If put with others, it could very well
rip a female to shreds.
But then again for the majority of males they settle quite qucikly and
fit into the Betta hierarchy. Being a male doesn't always mean you have
the "alpha" place in the hierarchy either. I've had many females hold
that place.

There is also a chance that a particular female may be overly
aggressive and would attack the male.
I've had females that would kill any male put into their tank. I've
recently had a single female that would shred up all males except for
one particular male. They would have made an interesting spawning pair
if he were worthy, but he was not. Although she was a lovely long
finned female. She was simply too aggressive with any other male to
spawn her.

The last batch of females I had that 98% died of some sort of (I
believe to be viral) disease were only fine with certain males.
No Crown tails, as they would be shredded (my poor One Eyed Jack found
that out. He's now healing nicely on his own.) He was in and out before
this disease came in, so he got lucky.
I now have a new veil tail male in the 75g with the surviving females.
So far he's fine.
I'm hoping the suriving girls aren't carriers. That once it's over on
the individual fish, that's it. (fingers crossed)

Now figuring out how many females can live in a 39-40g (us gallons
correct?) will depend on the fish, your tank habits, the decor, and
also the max size of the female must be taken into consideration. A
female can (although not in my hard water) get as large as a male, just
minus the long finnage.
You can occasionaly see huge...monster females in shops. These are
usually old breeders who are getting up there in age. These ladies need
either a calm tank or no male in their tank. These girls fill with eggs
so fast and huge with a male around that I've seem a lot become egg
bound.
This is why I keep these old gals without a male around.
Egg binding is rather rare. However, I've noticed a pattern with the
old breeders dropping dead fat with ripe eggs (when a male was arund).
So if a person had a tank that had a resident male and several females
and you wanted to add one or more of these huge females...either don't
or remove the male. (IMO)

Now forgetting about keeping a male in with females, it's important to
understand what's going on between all the female Bettas at all times.
There is a hierarchy that must be found and kept at all times.
If any changes happen..be it new addition/s, death or removal one one
or more females the order must be figured out anew.
Now Bettas also have territories, or areas they like to be alone in.
This is where the importance of tank decor comes into play.
It's a must. Without it they fight. No matter how well they got along
in a tank with plenty of decor, when it's removed they fight. They
bicker like hormonal teenage girls that brawl.
Add one plant and it's better right away. Well...for the one that got
the plant. = )~
Tank decor takes up room, so you need to add this into "how many can go
in a Xg tank".
I mean if you've filled your tank witrh large rocks and large plants
you have less room for fish. So plan it out.
I like to consider their max size even though in my hard water they
don't reach it. They get about 75% of their true max size. It doesn't
seem to be a problem becauase they live an average 4-5+ yrs if I get
them young or breed them myself. Now if the growth stunting was more
than that it would cause damage to their internal organs and that would
shorten their lifespan.
For you Nikki, you'll have to figure out what kind of water you have.
Is your tap water hard/alkaline or soft/acidic or neutral?
Normal behavior between females (and between a female and a male) will
consist of on a daily basis, posturing or flaring at each other. Each
one will have their own personality. Their own likes and dislikes. Some
may fancy some more than others, or even detest the presence of an
indivudal. This is all evident by their body language.
Betta body language is easily learned if you put the time into it and
the means for it.
Obviously you must need large enough tank.
You can't squish 3 females in a gallon vase. Heck, you can't keep 3 in
a 2 1/2 gallon.
Baby girls are a different story, so they don't count. = )
Females need space. Without it, they bicker.
Never keep only 2 females. It's havoc for the lessor female. The alpha
has nobody else to assert her place with and so the other female is
harrassed constantly. This can stress it to death.
So the minimum is always 3. The smallest tank I would house (only..no
other tank mates) 3 females in would be a 5g tank.
In my 75g I kept 13 females. That's a big tank but I could not have had
one more lady in that tank.
Everyone had a spot and there were no more. Some had larger areas to
themselves, and others seemed to like going all over the tank for 50%
of their time and the other 50% staked out a smaller area. The ladies
that liked to hang out in one area would pitch a fit when one of the
ladies came swimming through but they didn't seem to care.
Those types must be the adrenalin junkies, lol.
The lower the rank (when several females are together) the more often
they are showing submission coloring. Usually the omega (lowest in the
hierarchy) is always showing submission coloring. This is when they
blanch out their body color and look a drab dead color with horizontal
barring running along their sides ( 2 bars).
Usually once the pecking order is in place and everyone knows their
place the femnales color up nicley.
Then you get to see their true beauty.
I try to keep every color you can think of (I'd kill for emerald green!
Not the teal green... kelly green type green with no red underneath it
green. Wowza).
It so niceto have lovely royal blues, solid bright reds, dark reds,
dark blues, steel blues, white, yellow, multi colored, oh my so pretty!
= O
Ah but wait! There's more!
Now you have your choice of color patterns and fin variations.
Some are harder to find than others of course, but there are butterlfy
patterns, delta tails, crowntails, long finned, doubletails, Opaques
(range from white to blue-green, etc but are pearlized. That's the only
way I can think to describe the opaque color variation), pastels, mutli
colored which range from being marbled to grizzled.
The list goes on and on.
Bettatalk.com has a page with all the tail variations and the color
patterns that that particular breeder has come up with.
There's more breeders out there that have equally or better strains
than hers too, so do a search on it. You'll be amazed at what you
find.
Bettasrus.com is another.