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#2
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Paul wrote:
That sounds good, Do they still try and jump pot? As long as they're getting good sunlight and nutrients - which they tend to get in garden ponds - they're going to jump pots. That's why I ended up always planting bare root - it makes dividing really simple :-) I just wire the tuber to a rock. Others have had too much trouble with fish nibbling the plants for that, though. -- derek |
#3
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Geez Ingrid is everything you post wrong?
In "Encyclopedia of the water lily" by Charles O Masters it's suggested you use manure, not loam as loam has very close to zero nutriative value. You'll still need to augment with fertilizer spikes. Loam. Yeee-ow. (shakes head) -- Need Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net |
#4
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Richard Sexton wrote:
Geez Ingrid is everything you post wrong? In "Encyclopedia of the water lily" by Charles O Masters it's suggested you use manure, not loam as loam has very close to zero nutriative value. You'll still need to augment with fertilizer spikes. Loam. Yeee-ow. (shakes head) Just because it was in a book doesn't make it true, any more than if it's on a .edu site :-) I completely stopped potting lilies. The only reason for soil of any kind is if you have fish that keep nibbling on their roots. Then minimally nutrient rich is good. Clay works because it actually binds some of the nutrients, so it doesn't release them into the water as manure does. The only problem with pea gravel is not that it doesn't provide nutrients - it's just an almighty pain to try dividing a lily whose roots have grown around a couple of kilos of gravel! The only thing wrong with Ingrid's suggestion, ime, is that topping the soil with gravel still ends up with the roots all around the gravel. It's only there to keep the koi out of the plant, and I'd use much larger stones (after all, koi can move pea gravel, anyway). Manure is a really, really, stupid thing to add to a pond with fish. Fish provide plenty of their own manure. The last thing you ever want to do in a fish pond, if you can help it, is to add fertilizer. You want the plants to take up as much of the nutrients as possible, so that the algae doesn't get it and so that the fish don't have ammonia/nitrite problems. I fasten a 6" lily tuber to a rock in Spring and drop them to 4-5'. By August, they get so large that the tuber is around 18" and the foliage is so bouyant the rock's a foot off the pond bottom. -- derek |
#5
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for koi, I do use those big palm sized river rock to keep the kids out of the pot. I
only repot every 3 years, and altho it is messy I dont have a problem with the roots wrapped around the gravel. I set up the new tub with good loam been sitting in water for a few hours, just plunge the root down into the muck then bring it back up to the correct height. plug in the fert tabs and cover with rocks and gravel. my comment about pea gravel is what I been told by Marilyn Buscher http://home.wi.rr.com/windyoaks/ who wholesales to the Illinois and Wisconsin. She has tried almost everything out there to make dividing, transplant and transport easier. Ingrid Derek Broughton wrote: The only problem with pea gravel is not that it doesn't provide nutrients - it's just an almighty pain to try dividing a lily whose roots have grown around a couple of kilos of gravel! The only thing wrong with Ingrid's suggestion, ime, is that topping the soil with gravel still ends up with the roots all around the gravel. It's only there to keep the koi out of the plant, and I'd use much larger stones (after all, koi can move pea gravel, anyway). ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List at http://weloveteaching.com/puregold/ sign up: http://groups.google.com/groups/dir?...s=Group+lookup www.drsolo.com Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I receive no compensation for running the Puregold list or Puregold website. I do not run nor receive any money from the ads at the old Puregold site. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Zone 5 next to Lake Michigan |
#6
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wrote:
for koi, I do use those big palm sized river rock to keep the kids out of the pot. I only repot every 3 years, and altho it is messy I dont have a problem with the roots wrapped around the gravel. I set up the new tub with good loam been sitting in water for a few hours, just plunge the root down into the muck then bring it back up to the correct height. plug in the fert tabs and cover with rocks and gravel. my comment about pea gravel is what I been told by Marilyn Buscher http://home.wi.rr.com/windyoaks/ who wholesales to the Illinois and Wisconsin. She has tried almost everything out there to make dividing, transplant and transport easier. Well, I know people do it, and I guess others haven't had as much trouble as I did, but I can't see how dividing anything can be easier than dividing bare-root lilies :-) Richard's comment that "they will grow much much better with proper food" definitely applies when you're a commercial grower - then you want to fertilize and divide as often as possible. Me, I stick to bare-root because they do well enough that I have to divide annually. -- derek |
#7
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![]() "Derek Broughton" wrote in message ... Well, I know people do it, and I guess others haven't had as much trouble as I did, but I can't see how dividing anything can be easier than dividing bare-root lilies :-) Richard's comment that "they will grow much much better with proper food" definitely applies when you're a commercial grower - then you want to fertilize and divide as often as possible. Me, I stick to bare-root because they do well enough that I have to divide annually. ================= The year I tried to grow mine bare-root and a few in just pea gravel they didn't thrive at all. They grew small leaves and there were no flowers. I went back to using rich topsoil and Jobe's fertilizer spikes. They grow leaves as large as dinner plates and flower for several months. -- Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995... Aquariums since 1952 My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 *Note: There are two Koi-Lo's on the Aquaria Groups.* ~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o |
#8
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![]() "Richard Sexton" wrote in message ... Geez Ingrid is everything you post wrong? In "Encyclopedia of the water lily" by Charles O Masters it's suggested you use manure, not loam as loam has very close to zero nutriative value. You'll still need to augment with fertilizer spikes. Loam. Yeee-ow. (shakes head) ===================== I use rich topsoil that collects from my neighbor's pasture in the runoff area on my property. It settles there free for the tanking. I add a broken Jobe's Rose spike and they flower from mid spring to first good frost. :-) -- Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995... Aquariums since 1952 My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 *Note: There are two Koi-Lo's on rec.ponds.* ~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o |
#9
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#10
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In article ,
~ janj wrote: On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 18:27:29 +0000 (UTC), (Richard Sexton) wrote: Geez Ingrid is everything you post wrong? In "Encyclopedia of the water lily" by Charles O Masters it's suggested you use manure, Yeee-ow, you use manure, you get green pond. Been there, done that. My ponds were ready for St. Pat's day that year. I'd only redone 2 pots, pulled them out, used my unadulterated sandy soil, clear pond in 2 days, thanks to a good filter. ~ jan ;o) You seal it with fine beach sand. I use it in aquariums. http://images.aquaria.net/tanks/rjs/tk-1/ This tank has had manure under the 3" of beach sand for 7 years. Some poeple get green water without manure, but it's possible to use it and not have green water. The net is great and all but books are still good. Masters book has lots of pictutes of great and clear ponds with manute in the lily pots. -- Need Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net |
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