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  #2  
Old March 24th 06, 03:57 PM posted to rec.ponds
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Paul wrote:

That sounds good, Do they still try and jump pot?


As long as they're getting good sunlight and nutrients - which they tend to
get in garden ponds - they're going to jump pots. That's why I ended up
always planting bare root - it makes dividing really simple :-) I just
wire the tuber to a rock. Others have had too much trouble with fish
nibbling the plants for that, though.
--
derek
  #3  
Old March 24th 06, 06:27 PM posted to rec.ponds
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Geez Ingrid is everything you post wrong?

In "Encyclopedia of the water lily" by Charles O Masters
it's suggested you use manure, not loam as loam has very
close to zero nutriative value. You'll still need to augment
with fertilizer spikes.

Loam. Yeee-ow. (shakes head)

--
Need Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org
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  #4  
Old March 24th 06, 06:53 PM posted to rec.ponds
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Richard Sexton wrote:

Geez Ingrid is everything you post wrong?

In "Encyclopedia of the water lily" by Charles O Masters
it's suggested you use manure, not loam as loam has very
close to zero nutriative value. You'll still need to augment
with fertilizer spikes.

Loam. Yeee-ow. (shakes head)


Just because it was in a book doesn't make it true, any more than if it's on
a .edu site :-)

I completely stopped potting lilies. The only reason for soil of any kind
is if you have fish that keep nibbling on their roots. Then minimally
nutrient rich is good. Clay works because it actually binds some of the
nutrients, so it doesn't release them into the water as manure does. The
only problem with pea gravel is not that it doesn't provide nutrients -
it's just an almighty pain to try dividing a lily whose roots have grown
around a couple of kilos of gravel! The only thing wrong with Ingrid's
suggestion, ime, is that topping the soil with gravel still ends up with
the roots all around the gravel. It's only there to keep the koi out of
the plant, and I'd use much larger stones (after all, koi can move pea
gravel, anyway).

Manure is a really, really, stupid thing to add to a pond with fish. Fish
provide plenty of their own manure. The last thing you ever want to do in
a fish pond, if you can help it, is to add fertilizer. You want the plants
to take up as much of the nutrients as possible, so that the algae doesn't
get it and so that the fish don't have ammonia/nitrite problems.

I fasten a 6" lily tuber to a rock in Spring and drop them to 4-5'. By
August, they get so large that the tuber is around 18" and the foliage is
so bouyant the rock's a foot off the pond bottom.
--
derek
  #5  
Old March 25th 06, 03:06 PM posted to rec.ponds
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for koi, I do use those big palm sized river rock to keep the kids out of the pot. I
only repot every 3 years, and altho it is messy I dont have a problem with the roots
wrapped around the gravel. I set up the new tub with good loam been sitting in water
for a few hours, just plunge the root down into the muck then bring it back up to the
correct height. plug in the fert tabs and cover with rocks and gravel.

my comment about pea gravel is what I been told by Marilyn Buscher
http://home.wi.rr.com/windyoaks/ who wholesales to the Illinois and Wisconsin. She
has tried almost everything out there to make dividing, transplant and transport
easier.
Ingrid

Derek Broughton wrote:
The
only problem with pea gravel is not that it doesn't provide nutrients -
it's just an almighty pain to try dividing a lily whose roots have grown
around a couple of kilos of gravel! The only thing wrong with Ingrid's
suggestion, ime, is that topping the soil with gravel still ends up with
the roots all around the gravel. It's only there to keep the koi out of
the plant, and I'd use much larger stones (after all, koi can move pea
gravel, anyway).



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  #6  
Old March 26th 06, 04:10 AM posted to rec.ponds
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wrote:

for koi, I do use those big palm sized river rock to keep the kids out of
the pot. I only repot every 3 years, and altho it is messy I dont have a
problem with the roots
wrapped around the gravel. I set up the new tub with good loam been
sitting in water for a few hours, just plunge the root down into the muck
then bring it back up to the
correct height. plug in the fert tabs and cover with rocks and gravel.

my comment about pea gravel is what I been told by Marilyn Buscher
http://home.wi.rr.com/windyoaks/ who wholesales to the Illinois and
Wisconsin. She
has tried almost everything out there to make dividing, transplant and
transport easier.


Well, I know people do it, and I guess others haven't had as much trouble as
I did, but I can't see how dividing anything can be easier than dividing
bare-root lilies :-) Richard's comment that "they will grow much much
better with proper food" definitely applies when you're a commercial grower
- then you want to fertilize and divide as often as possible. Me, I stick
to bare-root because they do well enough that I have to divide annually.
--
derek
  #7  
Old March 26th 06, 05:33 AM posted to rec.ponds
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"Derek Broughton" wrote in message
...
Well, I know people do it, and I guess others haven't had as much trouble
as
I did, but I can't see how dividing anything can be easier than dividing
bare-root lilies :-) Richard's comment that "they will grow much much
better with proper food" definitely applies when you're a commercial
grower
- then you want to fertilize and divide as often as possible. Me, I stick
to bare-root because they do well enough that I have to divide annually.

=================
The year I tried to grow mine bare-root and a few in just pea gravel they
didn't thrive at all. They grew small leaves and there were no flowers. I
went back to using rich topsoil and Jobe's fertilizer spikes. They grow
leaves as large as dinner plates and flower for several months.
--
Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
http://tinyurl.com/9do58
*Note: There are two Koi-Lo's on the Aquaria Groups.*
~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o




  #8  
Old March 24th 06, 07:52 PM posted to rec.ponds
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"Richard Sexton" wrote in message
...
Geez Ingrid is everything you post wrong?

In "Encyclopedia of the water lily" by Charles O Masters
it's suggested you use manure, not loam as loam has very
close to zero nutriative value. You'll still need to augment
with fertilizer spikes.

Loam. Yeee-ow. (shakes head)

=====================
I use rich topsoil that collects from my neighbor's pasture in the runoff
area on my property. It settles there free for the tanking. I add a broken
Jobe's Rose spike and they flower from mid spring to first good frost. :-)
--
Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
http://tinyurl.com/9do58
*Note: There are two Koi-Lo's on rec.ponds.*
~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o




  #10  
Old March 27th 06, 01:04 AM posted to rec.ponds
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In article ,
~ janj wrote:
On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 18:27:29 +0000 (UTC), (Richard
Sexton) wrote:

Geez Ingrid is everything you post wrong?

In "Encyclopedia of the water lily" by Charles O Masters
it's suggested you use manure,


Yeee-ow, you use manure, you get green pond. Been there, done that. My
ponds were ready for St. Pat's day that year. I'd only redone 2 pots,
pulled them out, used my unadulterated sandy soil, clear pond in 2 days,
thanks to a good filter. ~ jan ;o)


You seal it with fine beach sand. I use it in aquariums.

http://images.aquaria.net/tanks/rjs/tk-1/

This tank has had manure under the 3" of beach sand for 7 years.

Some poeple get green water without manure, but it's possible to
use it and not have green water.

The net is great and all but books are still good. Masters book has
lots of pictutes of great and clear ponds with manute in the lily
pots.



--
Need Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org
Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net
 




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