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UV Sterlizer



 
 
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  #1  
Old April 3rd 06, 12:49 AM posted to rec.aquaria.marine.reefs
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Default UV Sterlizer

Pszemol wrote:
How can you prevent "these life forms" passing through your sterilizer?
How can UV sterilizer work in a selective way killing only disease
causing inverts/bacteria and not kill beneficial ones?
How can you justify UV sterilizer on a timer, and then expect it will
have any role in disease prevention ?
This is the first time over so many years in this hobby I hear from you
that people use metal halide lamps to sterilize water in their tanks,
to duplicate the ocean...


Are you 100% sure you know what are you talking about?


[1]The timer is used to allow certain feeding times
[2]On a new aquaria I recommend continuous operation, especially when
new fauna are added
[3]Yes metal halide only emit A & B uv, and I am not advocating their
use as a sterilizerer, only that UV B DOES have damaging properties to
organic substances.
[4] I have been maintaining sucessfull reef aquariums for 27 years,
with and without UVs, with fauna reproducing.
[5] In the maintenance business, most of my customers overfeed, do not
purchase fauna carefully (I generally provided them with their sealife,
but many couldn't resist other purchases), and in general ran a higher
risk of disease introduction, as they are not experts, like I assume
you are. By running th UV continuously and then later in cycles
corresponding to feeding schedules, I helped minimize disease
introduction
[6] UVs are not a cure all, and in fact do very little to kill multi
cell organisms, and even larger protozoa.
[7] The final half of your statement, although true, was never stated
by me.

Carl

  #2  
Old April 3rd 06, 12:57 AM posted to rec.aquaria.marine.reefs
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Default UV Sterlizer

I think you are both missing 1 important point.
It doesn't sound like buff82...has a protein skimmer
which IS undoubtedly a heck of a lot more important than UV.

Not to mention the fact that canister filters are not meant for marine type
applications.

Chris




"carlrs" wrote in message
oups.com...
Pszemol wrote:
How can you prevent "these life forms" passing through your sterilizer?
How can UV sterilizer work in a selective way killing only disease
causing inverts/bacteria and not kill beneficial ones?
How can you justify UV sterilizer on a timer, and then expect it will
have any role in disease prevention ?
This is the first time over so many years in this hobby I hear from you
that people use metal halide lamps to sterilize water in their tanks,
to duplicate the ocean...


Are you 100% sure you know what are you talking about?


[1]The timer is used to allow certain feeding times
[2]On a new aquaria I recommend continuous operation, especially when
new fauna are added
[3]Yes metal halide only emit A & B uv, and I am not advocating their
use as a sterilizerer, only that UV B DOES have damaging properties to
organic substances.
[4] I have been maintaining sucessfull reef aquariums for 27 years,
with and without UVs, with fauna reproducing.
[5] In the maintenance business, most of my customers overfeed, do not
purchase fauna carefully (I generally provided them with their sealife,
but many couldn't resist other purchases), and in general ran a higher
risk of disease introduction, as they are not experts, like I assume
you are. By running th UV continuously and then later in cycles
corresponding to feeding schedules, I helped minimize disease
introduction
[6] UVs are not a cure all, and in fact do very little to kill multi
cell organisms, and even larger protozoa.
[7] The final half of your statement, although true, was never stated
by me.

Carl



  #3  
Old April 3rd 06, 01:29 AM posted to rec.aquaria.marine.reefs
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default UV Sterlizer

"TheRock" wrote in message news:AxZXf.1455$te1.92@trndny03...
I think you are both missing 1 important point.
It doesn't sound like buff82...has a protein skimmer
which IS undoubtedly a heck of a lot more important than UV.


Totally agree, but it was already said in this thread,
so I do not see reason for repeating same thing...

Not to mention the fact that canister filters
are not meant for marine type applications.


Marine applications - well, it is a too broad statement.

If you consider a old-fashioned marine FO tank, with
a graveyard of bleached, dead coral skeletons as so
called "decorations", without live rock or undergravel
filter, than the usage of canister filters is needed
the same way as it is needed in freshwater tanks.
Both types of tanks (freshwater with no plants and
marine fish-only, no or very little LiveRock) need
mechanical and biological filtration to cope with
ammonia and nitrites, shortly called nitrification.
Power filters (HOB or canister) are used for this...
  #4  
Old April 3rd 06, 01:49 AM posted to rec.aquaria.marine.reefs
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Posts: n/a
Default UV Sterlizer

TheRock wrote:

I think you are both missing 1 important point.
It doesn't sound like buff82...has a protein skimmer
which IS undoubtedly a heck of a lot more important than UV.


Not to mention the fact that canister filters are not meant for marine type
applications.


I agree, that is why I mentioned the Multi -filter

Carl

  #5  
Old April 3rd 06, 03:28 AM posted to rec.aquaria.marine.reefs
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Posts: n/a
Default UV Sterlizer


carlrs wrote:
TheRock wrote:


I think you are both missing 1 important point.
It doesn't sound like buff82...has a protein skimmer
which IS undoubtedly a heck of a lot more important than UV.


Not to mention the fact that canister filters are not meant for marine type
applications.


I agree, that is why I mentioned the Multi -filter

Carl


I do not have a skimmer and I got those two filters b/c I used to have
huge bio-loads. I used to HAVE to do a major water change every WEEK.
My tank was really over-stocked but I never had a problem with disease
aside from occassionally suffering from ich b/c I did not quarantine
new fish. A skimmer probably would have made life easier but my LFS at
the time said they were a fad. I ended up with a fair number of ich
infested fish from him so go figure. My problem now is cyanobacteria is
out of control but my nitrates barely register. I think it may be my
water is loaded with phosphates. I don't like loading my tank up with
chemicals to kill the cyno b/c then its a mess to clean up and it comes
back within days and I just don't like loading it will toxic
stuff...have you ever looked at what some "medicines" for ich have in
them? Formalin. Turns water green and stains the silicone.

  #6  
Old April 3rd 06, 02:11 AM posted to rec.aquaria.marine.reefs
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default UV Sterlizer

aaaaaaaaaa
ok


"Pszemol" wrote in message
...
"TheRock" wrote in message
news:AxZXf.1455$te1.92@trndny03...
I think you are both missing 1 important point.
It doesn't sound like buff82...has a protein skimmer
which IS undoubtedly a heck of a lot more important than UV.


Totally agree, but it was already said in this thread,
so I do not see reason for repeating same thing...

Not to mention the fact that canister filters
are not meant for marine type applications.


Marine applications - well, it is a too broad statement.

If you consider a old-fashioned marine FO tank, with
a graveyard of bleached, dead coral skeletons as so
called "decorations", without live rock or undergravel
filter, than the usage of canister filters is needed
the same way as it is needed in freshwater tanks.
Both types of tanks (freshwater with no plants and
marine fish-only, no or very little LiveRock) need
mechanical and biological filtration to cope with
ammonia and nitrites, shortly called nitrification.
Power filters (HOB or canister) are used for this...



  #7  
Old April 3rd 06, 07:18 AM posted to rec.aquaria.marine.reefs
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default UV Sterlizer

"[3]Yes metal halide only emit A & B uv, and I am not advocating their
use as a sterilizerer, only that UV B DOES have damaging properties to
organic substances"

It also adds in oxidizing organic substances, although not as well as ozone and some use
UV for that very purpose, especially if the are worried about ozone potentials hazards.

Enveloped MH are pretty much protected from UV, at least excessive UV, by the
borosilicate envelope bulb ( non- DE). I might add some or many coral can use MH UV.

--
Boomer

If You See Me Running You Better Catch-Up

Former US Army Bomb Technician (EOD)
Member; IABTI, NATEODA, WEODF, ISEE & IPS

Want to talk chemistry ? The Reef Chemistry Forum
http://www.reefcentral.com/vbulletin/index.php

Want to See More ! The Coral Realm
http://www.coralrealm.com



"carlrs" wrote in message
oups.com...
: Pszemol wrote:
: How can you prevent "these life forms" passing through your sterilizer?
: How can UV sterilizer work in a selective way killing only disease
: causing inverts/bacteria and not kill beneficial ones?
: How can you justify UV sterilizer on a timer, and then expect it will
: have any role in disease prevention ?
: This is the first time over so many years in this hobby I hear from you
: that people use metal halide lamps to sterilize water in their tanks,
: to duplicate the ocean...
:
: Are you 100% sure you know what are you talking about?
:
: [1]The timer is used to allow certain feeding times
: [2]On a new aquaria I recommend continuous operation, especially when
: new fauna are added
: [3]Yes metal halide only emit A & B uv, and I am not advocating their
: use as a sterilizerer, only that UV B DOES have damaging properties to
: organic substances.
: [4] I have been maintaining sucessfull reef aquariums for 27 years,
: with and without UVs, with fauna reproducing.
: [5] In the maintenance business, most of my customers overfeed, do not
: purchase fauna carefully (I generally provided them with their sealife,
: but many couldn't resist other purchases), and in general ran a higher
: risk of disease introduction, as they are not experts, like I assume
: you are. By running th UV continuously and then later in cycles
: corresponding to feeding schedules, I helped minimize disease
: introduction
: [6] UVs are not a cure all, and in fact do very little to kill multi
: cell organisms, and even larger protozoa.
: [7] The final half of your statement, although true, was never stated
: by me.
:
: Carl
:


  #8  
Old April 3rd 06, 10:47 PM posted to rec.aquaria.marine.reefs
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default UV Sterlizer

carlrs wrote on 4/2/2006 7:49 PM:

[6] UVs are not a cure all, and in fact do very little to kill multi
cell organisms, and even larger protozoa.


And so therefore you think that it won't hurt the good
stuff in the water, but kill the bad stuff. Looking at a
uv light won't kill you, but it sure isn't good for you.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets

  #9  
Old April 3rd 06, 11:44 PM posted to rec.aquaria.marine.reefs
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Posts: n/a
Default UV Sterlizer

Wayne Sallee wrote

And so therefore you think that it won't hurt the good
stuff in the water, but kill the bad stuff. Looking at a
uv light won't kill you, but it sure isn't good for you.


That is Why uvc is sheilded in a unit, but you also do not want stare
at uvb lamps either. I wrote a blog based on my experience about uv
radiation, it gives the different wave lengths required for germacidal
sterilization. UVC lamps work best at the upper end of the uvc spectrum
(265 NM).
Anyway, back to the original subject; I would recommend a RO unit for
buff82driver, and to take all the advice given here and utilize it for
his application. Also the Skimmer is a puchase I would recommend. If
you do go with a UV also, a 5 to 15 watt unit is all you need.

Carl
http://aquariumuvsterilizer.blogspot.com/

 




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