![]() |
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Pszemol wrote:
How can you prevent "these life forms" passing through your sterilizer? How can UV sterilizer work in a selective way killing only disease causing inverts/bacteria and not kill beneficial ones? How can you justify UV sterilizer on a timer, and then expect it will have any role in disease prevention ? This is the first time over so many years in this hobby I hear from you that people use metal halide lamps to sterilize water in their tanks, to duplicate the ocean... Are you 100% sure you know what are you talking about? [1]The timer is used to allow certain feeding times [2]On a new aquaria I recommend continuous operation, especially when new fauna are added [3]Yes metal halide only emit A & B uv, and I am not advocating their use as a sterilizerer, only that UV B DOES have damaging properties to organic substances. [4] I have been maintaining sucessfull reef aquariums for 27 years, with and without UVs, with fauna reproducing. [5] In the maintenance business, most of my customers overfeed, do not purchase fauna carefully (I generally provided them with their sealife, but many couldn't resist other purchases), and in general ran a higher risk of disease introduction, as they are not experts, like I assume you are. By running th UV continuously and then later in cycles corresponding to feeding schedules, I helped minimize disease introduction [6] UVs are not a cure all, and in fact do very little to kill multi cell organisms, and even larger protozoa. [7] The final half of your statement, although true, was never stated by me. Carl |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I think you are both missing 1 important point.
It doesn't sound like buff82...has a protein skimmer which IS undoubtedly a heck of a lot more important than UV. Not to mention the fact that canister filters are not meant for marine type applications. Chris "carlrs" wrote in message oups.com... Pszemol wrote: How can you prevent "these life forms" passing through your sterilizer? How can UV sterilizer work in a selective way killing only disease causing inverts/bacteria and not kill beneficial ones? How can you justify UV sterilizer on a timer, and then expect it will have any role in disease prevention ? This is the first time over so many years in this hobby I hear from you that people use metal halide lamps to sterilize water in their tanks, to duplicate the ocean... Are you 100% sure you know what are you talking about? [1]The timer is used to allow certain feeding times [2]On a new aquaria I recommend continuous operation, especially when new fauna are added [3]Yes metal halide only emit A & B uv, and I am not advocating their use as a sterilizerer, only that UV B DOES have damaging properties to organic substances. [4] I have been maintaining sucessfull reef aquariums for 27 years, with and without UVs, with fauna reproducing. [5] In the maintenance business, most of my customers overfeed, do not purchase fauna carefully (I generally provided them with their sealife, but many couldn't resist other purchases), and in general ran a higher risk of disease introduction, as they are not experts, like I assume you are. By running th UV continuously and then later in cycles corresponding to feeding schedules, I helped minimize disease introduction [6] UVs are not a cure all, and in fact do very little to kill multi cell organisms, and even larger protozoa. [7] The final half of your statement, although true, was never stated by me. Carl |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"TheRock" wrote in message news:AxZXf.1455$te1.92@trndny03...
I think you are both missing 1 important point. It doesn't sound like buff82...has a protein skimmer which IS undoubtedly a heck of a lot more important than UV. Totally agree, but it was already said in this thread, so I do not see reason for repeating same thing... Not to mention the fact that canister filters are not meant for marine type applications. Marine applications - well, it is a too broad statement. If you consider a old-fashioned marine FO tank, with a graveyard of bleached, dead coral skeletons as so called "decorations", without live rock or undergravel filter, than the usage of canister filters is needed the same way as it is needed in freshwater tanks. Both types of tanks (freshwater with no plants and marine fish-only, no or very little LiveRock) need mechanical and biological filtration to cope with ammonia and nitrites, shortly called nitrification. Power filters (HOB or canister) are used for this... |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
TheRock wrote:
I think you are both missing 1 important point. It doesn't sound like buff82...has a protein skimmer which IS undoubtedly a heck of a lot more important than UV. Not to mention the fact that canister filters are not meant for marine type applications. I agree, that is why I mentioned the Multi -filter Carl |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]() carlrs wrote: TheRock wrote: I think you are both missing 1 important point. It doesn't sound like buff82...has a protein skimmer which IS undoubtedly a heck of a lot more important than UV. Not to mention the fact that canister filters are not meant for marine type applications. I agree, that is why I mentioned the Multi -filter Carl I do not have a skimmer and I got those two filters b/c I used to have huge bio-loads. I used to HAVE to do a major water change every WEEK. My tank was really over-stocked but I never had a problem with disease aside from occassionally suffering from ich b/c I did not quarantine new fish. A skimmer probably would have made life easier but my LFS at the time said they were a fad. I ended up with a fair number of ich infested fish from him so go figure. My problem now is cyanobacteria is out of control but my nitrates barely register. I think it may be my water is loaded with phosphates. I don't like loading my tank up with chemicals to kill the cyno b/c then its a mess to clean up and it comes back within days and I just don't like loading it will toxic stuff...have you ever looked at what some "medicines" for ich have in them? Formalin. Turns water green and stains the silicone. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
aaaaaaaaaa
ok "Pszemol" wrote in message ... "TheRock" wrote in message news:AxZXf.1455$te1.92@trndny03... I think you are both missing 1 important point. It doesn't sound like buff82...has a protein skimmer which IS undoubtedly a heck of a lot more important than UV. Totally agree, but it was already said in this thread, so I do not see reason for repeating same thing... Not to mention the fact that canister filters are not meant for marine type applications. Marine applications - well, it is a too broad statement. If you consider a old-fashioned marine FO tank, with a graveyard of bleached, dead coral skeletons as so called "decorations", without live rock or undergravel filter, than the usage of canister filters is needed the same way as it is needed in freshwater tanks. Both types of tanks (freshwater with no plants and marine fish-only, no or very little LiveRock) need mechanical and biological filtration to cope with ammonia and nitrites, shortly called nitrification. Power filters (HOB or canister) are used for this... |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"[3]Yes metal halide only emit A & B uv, and I am not advocating their
use as a sterilizerer, only that UV B DOES have damaging properties to organic substances" It also adds in oxidizing organic substances, although not as well as ozone and some use UV for that very purpose, especially if the are worried about ozone potentials hazards. Enveloped MH are pretty much protected from UV, at least excessive UV, by the borosilicate envelope bulb ( non- DE). I might add some or many coral can use MH UV. -- Boomer If You See Me Running You Better Catch-Up Former US Army Bomb Technician (EOD) Member; IABTI, NATEODA, WEODF, ISEE & IPS Want to talk chemistry ? The Reef Chemistry Forum http://www.reefcentral.com/vbulletin/index.php Want to See More ! The Coral Realm http://www.coralrealm.com "carlrs" wrote in message oups.com... : Pszemol wrote: : How can you prevent "these life forms" passing through your sterilizer? : How can UV sterilizer work in a selective way killing only disease : causing inverts/bacteria and not kill beneficial ones? : How can you justify UV sterilizer on a timer, and then expect it will : have any role in disease prevention ? : This is the first time over so many years in this hobby I hear from you : that people use metal halide lamps to sterilize water in their tanks, : to duplicate the ocean... : : Are you 100% sure you know what are you talking about? : : [1]The timer is used to allow certain feeding times : [2]On a new aquaria I recommend continuous operation, especially when : new fauna are added : [3]Yes metal halide only emit A & B uv, and I am not advocating their : use as a sterilizerer, only that UV B DOES have damaging properties to : organic substances. : [4] I have been maintaining sucessfull reef aquariums for 27 years, : with and without UVs, with fauna reproducing. : [5] In the maintenance business, most of my customers overfeed, do not : purchase fauna carefully (I generally provided them with their sealife, : but many couldn't resist other purchases), and in general ran a higher : risk of disease introduction, as they are not experts, like I assume : you are. By running th UV continuously and then later in cycles : corresponding to feeding schedules, I helped minimize disease : introduction : [6] UVs are not a cure all, and in fact do very little to kill multi : cell organisms, and even larger protozoa. : [7] The final half of your statement, although true, was never stated : by me. : : Carl : |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
carlrs wrote on 4/2/2006 7:49 PM:
[6] UVs are not a cure all, and in fact do very little to kill multi cell organisms, and even larger protozoa. And so therefore you think that it won't hurt the good stuff in the water, but kill the bad stuff. Looking at a uv light won't kill you, but it sure isn't good for you. Wayne Sallee Wayne's Pets |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Wayne Sallee wrote
And so therefore you think that it won't hurt the good stuff in the water, but kill the bad stuff. Looking at a uv light won't kill you, but it sure isn't good for you. That is Why uvc is sheilded in a unit, but you also do not want stare at uvb lamps either. I wrote a blog based on my experience about uv radiation, it gives the different wave lengths required for germacidal sterilization. UVC lamps work best at the upper end of the uvc spectrum (265 NM). Anyway, back to the original subject; I would recommend a RO unit for buff82driver, and to take all the advice given here and utilize it for his application. Also the Skimmer is a puchase I would recommend. If you do go with a UV also, a 5 to 15 watt unit is all you need. Carl http://aquariumuvsterilizer.blogspot.com/ |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|