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#1
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*Note: There are two "Koi-Lo's" on the pond and aquaria groups.
"Mark Baldwin" wrote in message ... The only way I know of destroying it is to use Flourish Excel, you need to perform the initial dose and then everyday thereafter, do a 2x or 3x dose for 2 weeks. When you put the stuff in the tank, squirt it directly onto the algae - it will die within a couple of days going red and then white. Mark, that didn't work in my tanks. All the Excel did was stop it from spreading. It never turned white. It took several algae eaters to clean up the tanks plus the Excel and micronutrients. Now however, I have a black stringy, wiry algae none of them will eat. I'm going through Excel like a drunk goes through a 6-pack. Also up your CO2 to at least 30ppm - apparently this stops it growing but I'm not convinced about this tbh. Of course make sure you tank are in balance, all the proper plant nutrients, low phosphate (0.1ppm), low nitrate (5ppm) and get your plants growing. BBA will gradually die off if your plants are growing well and everything is in balance. -- Koi-Lo.... Aquariums since 1952. My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Aquarium FAQ are at: http://faq.thekrib.com/ ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö ~~~~ }((((({* |
#2
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"Koi-Lo" None At This Time wrote in :
Mark, that didn't work in my tanks. All the Excel did was stop it from spreading. It never turned white. It took several algae eaters to clean up the tanks plus the Excel and micronutrients. Now however, I have a black stringy, wiry algae none of them will eat. I'm going through Excel like a drunk goes through a 6-pack. Fighting algae is about finding the balance. Not enough light for healthy plants = algae. Too much light and not enough CO2 for healthy plants = algae. Too much CO2 and not enough light = dead fish and algae. Wrong temperature = algae. Improper any of the aforementioned for plants to utilize the available macro nutrients = algae. Excel, which is just an organic carbon compound just helps you find a balance in a particular area where your tank may have been lacking. You won't have the same degree of success with it in all tanks. |
#3
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![]() "dc" wrote in message ... "Koi-Lo" None At This Time wrote in : Mark, that didn't work in my tanks. All the Excel did was stop it from spreading. It never turned white. It took several algae eaters to clean up the tanks plus the Excel and micronutrients. Now however, I have a black stringy, wiry algae none of them will eat. I'm going through Excel like a drunk goes through a 6-pack. ============================== Fighting algae is about finding the balance. Not enough light for healthy plants = algae. Too much light and not enough CO2 for healthy plants = algae. Too much CO2 and not enough light = dead fish and algae. Wrong temperature = algae. Improper any of the aforementioned for plants to utilize the available macro nutrients = algae. Excel, which is just an organic carbon compound just helps you find a balance in a particular area where your tank may have been lacking. You won't have the same degree of success with it in all tanks. ======================== After all these years this is the first time I got really serious about growing plants in these tanks. I mean other than vals and hornwart and an anubia or two. The job seems complicated and expensive - a hobby in an of itself. -- Koi-Lo.... Aquariums since 1952. My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö ~~~~ }((((({* |
#4
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On Sat, 3 Jun 2006 15:08:55 -0500, "Koi-Lo" None wrote:
"dc" wrote in message 1... "Koi-Lo" None At This Time wrote in : Mark, that didn't work in my tanks. All the Excel did was stop it from spreading. It never turned white. It took several algae eaters to clean up the tanks plus the Excel and micronutrients. Now however, I have a black stringy, wiry algae none of them will eat. I'm going through Excel like a drunk goes through a 6-pack. ============================== Fighting algae is about finding the balance. Not enough light for healthy plants = algae. Too much light and not enough CO2 for healthy plants = algae. Too much CO2 and not enough light = dead fish and algae. Wrong temperature = algae. Improper any of the aforementioned for plants to utilize the available macro nutrients = algae. Excel, which is just an organic carbon compound just helps you find a balance in a particular area where your tank may have been lacking. You won't have the same degree of success with it in all tanks. ======================== After all these years this is the first time I got really serious about growing plants in these tanks. I mean other than vals and hornwart and an anubia or two. The job seems complicated and expensive - a hobby in an of itself. I think it depends how fancy you want to be. My first plants died as they were not low light. Next I ordered a variety pack for "low light". Some died, but those that survived have done well for over 3 years and I have used starters to populate my other tanks. I don't use fertilizer nor CO2 nor special sub layers. I have 3 different types of gravels, but the plants do well in all 3. My only problem is pruning the excess growth. I hate throwing out perfectly healthy plants. I think that those that talk about ferilizers, substrates and CO2 want to match the tank condition to the plants they want to have. I work it the other way and have plants that are happy with the tank conditions. My tanks are very attractive to my eyes and the fish are happy to have resting areas. They run into the heavy growth to rest and I have no need for caves. I do have 3 ornaments that a few of the fish use, but the majority are content with their leafy glades. dick |
#5
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*Note: There are two "Koi-Lo's" on the pond and aquaria groups.
"Dick" wrote in message ... I think it depends how fancy you want to be. My first plants died as they were not low light. Next I ordered a variety pack for "low light". Some died, but those that survived have done well for over 3 years and I have used starters to populate my other tanks. I also have such plants as mentioned. They thrive on neglect but fairly good lighting - hornwart, vals, anubias, Java moss and a few old crypts that lived and grew slowly. I have four 40w fluorescent bulbs over each 55g tank. I can't fit anymore. I don't use fertilizer nor CO2 nor special sub layers. I have 3 different types of gravels, but the plants do well in all 3. My only problem is pruning the excess growth. I hate throwing out perfectly healthy plants. I know the feeling. The hornwart and vals can really take over. All my hornwart died at one time last winter, but for one small piece in a 10g tank. I am re-growing it from that one small piece. ;-) I may just go back to these old favorites. I think that those that talk about ferilizers, substrates and CO2 want to match the tank condition to the plants they want to have. I work it the other way and have plants that are happy with the tank conditions. There you go! I do that with my fish. With my hard alkaline water I stick to fish that thrive in it rather than those that don't. With the plants I thought I'd try something new....... some new plants. My tanks are very attractive to my eyes and the fish are happy to have resting areas. They run into the heavy growth to rest and I have no need for caves. I do have 3 ornaments that a few of the fish use, but the majority are content with their leafy glades. dick -- Koi-Lo.... Aquariums since 1952. My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Aquarium FAQ are at: http://faq.thekrib.com/ ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö ~~~~ }((((({* |
#6
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160 watts over 55 gallons is almost 3 watts per gallon. I use 1.5 w/g
or lower as the definition of "low light." I don't know what happens when low light plants are exposed to "high light" conditions. Could this be a problem? dick On Sat, 3 Jun 2006 17:59:42 -0500, "Koi-Lo" None wrote: *Note: There are two "Koi-Lo's" on the pond and aquaria groups. "Dick" wrote in message .. . I think it depends how fancy you want to be. My first plants died as they were not low light. Next I ordered a variety pack for "low light". Some died, but those that survived have done well for over 3 years and I have used starters to populate my other tanks. I also have such plants as mentioned. They thrive on neglect but fairly good lighting - hornwart, vals, anubias, Java moss and a few old crypts that lived and grew slowly. I have four 40w fluorescent bulbs over each 55g tank. I can't fit anymore. I don't use fertilizer nor CO2 nor special sub layers. I have 3 different types of gravels, but the plants do well in all 3. My only problem is pruning the excess growth. I hate throwing out perfectly healthy plants. I know the feeling. The hornwart and vals can really take over. All my hornwart died at one time last winter, but for one small piece in a 10g tank. I am re-growing it from that one small piece. ;-) I may just go back to these old favorites. I think that those that talk about ferilizers, substrates and CO2 want to match the tank condition to the plants they want to have. I work it the other way and have plants that are happy with the tank conditions. There you go! I do that with my fish. With my hard alkaline water I stick to fish that thrive in it rather than those that don't. With the plants I thought I'd try something new....... some new plants. My tanks are very attractive to my eyes and the fish are happy to have resting areas. They run into the heavy growth to rest and I have no need for caves. I do have 3 ornaments that a few of the fish use, but the majority are content with their leafy glades. dick |
#7
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*Note: There are two "Koi-Lo's" on the pond and aquaria groups.
"Dick" wrote in message ... 160 watts over 55 gallons is almost 3 watts per gallon. I use 1.5 w/g or lower as the definition of "low light." I don't know what happens when low light plants are exposed to "high light" conditions. Could this be a problem? ======================== I don't think so since this wiry algae isn't growing in the 10g tanks and they're even brighter. Before I added the second fixture to the 55s they had a really disgusting blackish red sooty looking algae spreading everywhere. The 55s are really too dim with only 80w. The tanks even look better as do the fish with 160w per tank. The odd thing is when I first started to add the Excel and micronutrients the plants really picked up for awhile. The new otos and plec's cleaned the plants and all was well - then suddenly this black wiry stuff shows up. The plants are blah again no matter how faithfully I add the fertilizers (not exceeding the recommended doses). -- Koi-Lo.... Aquariums since 1952. My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö ~~~~ }((((({* |
#8
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On Sun, 04 Jun 2006 04:37:55 -0500, Dick wrote:
160 watts over 55 gallons is almost 3 watts per gallon. I use 1.5 w/g or lower as the definition of "low light." I don't know what happens when low light plants are exposed to "high light" conditions. Could this be a problem? dick It could be a problem when you tack another zero to the utility bill. |
#9
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Dick wrote in
: 160 watts over 55 gallons is almost 3 watts per gallon. I use 1.5 w/g or lower as the definition of "low light." I don't know what happens when low light plants are exposed to "high light" conditions. Could this be a problem? Yes. Excessive light will damage low light plants and cause algae problems. If your tank is extremely low in macro-nutrients you may not see much algae from excessive light, but the light still may still burn out the chloroplastid cells and shock or just dwarf the plant. Even bright light plants may become overrun with algae if it isn't balanced off with sufficient CO2. Anubias and Madagascan lace (Aponogeton madagascariensis) are prime examples of plants that don't fair well and/or become overrun with algae under very bright direct light. |
#10
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Dick wrote in
: My only problem is pruning the excess growth. I hate throwing out perfectly healthy plants. Pruning is part of keeping a plant healthy; without it the plant will look untidy and being to suffer and die back as it chokes itself out. In the wild it is natural for a plant to become damaged for one reason or another. The damage allows the plant to branch and spread. Healthy plants respond to pruning by producing new growth. Growth unchecked is actually unnatural. How much are you pruning? Local aquarium societies often trade plant cuttings amongst themselves. If you are pruning an enormous amount of healthy growth, your LFS may be interested in providing you with a small store credit for your cuttings. 99% of the Java moss we sell comes from customers or from our own display tanks. I can't remember the last time we had to order any in. |
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