Sal****er Aquariums Home Service in Orlando

11 water tests in one visit
10 points check of your aquarium
Full scale tutoring to new and seasoned aquarists!

G;SAHS

--
Visit www.guayni.com

"Guayni; SAHS" wrote in message ...
11 water tests in one visit

What do you test ?

10 points check of your aquarium

What do you check ?

Full scale tutoring to new and seasoned aquarists!

How much per visit ?

p.s. Jaime, on your website you claim you specialize
in wildlife field research and your research resulted
in "numerous publications". Could you provide a list of
your publications here ? I am interested in reading them.

Thanks.

The 11 water analysis tests are; pH, Salinity, Dissolved Oxygen, NH4/NH3,
NO2, NO3, PO4, KH, ORP, Ca, SG/Temperature...
All this parameters alone say little about a tank. I put them in an Excel
chart and after normalizing them I got pretty interesting graphs

The 10 points aquarium checks are found in
http://www.guayni.com/Maintenance.htm

A complete service with an hour of tutoring costs $65

As for my publications, I am working on some details before I web-publish
them, they will be available for download. Basically, some of them are not
only mine, there are others and using them for business takes a little
negotiation with my colleagues. There is another little problem; some of
the findings used for my WRU are confidential until I patent the filter.
Nevertheless, I will provide a copy in pdf of the more interesting ones.
Most of them are of wildlife nature in the Florida Keys and the Central
Florida Wetlands.
My publications should not be an obstacle to those who want to see another
angle of the water they have in their aquarium...

I do appreciate your concerns and hope you visit my website again, some of
the graphs I am getting will be published and establish a relationship
between parameters worst noticing.

Thanks again, Jaime


"Pszemol" wrote in message
...
"Guayni; SAHS" wrote in message
...
11 water tests in one visit

What do you test ?

10 points check of your aquarium

What do you check ?

Full scale tutoring to new and seasoned aquarists!

How much per visit ?

p.s. Jaime, on your website you claim you specialize
in wildlife field research and your research resulted
in "numerous publications". Could you provide a list of
your publications here ? I am interested in reading them.

Thanks.

Looks like you have put quite a lot of effort into this.
I wish ya the best of luck mate!!
The leaning towards teaching people...... tis always the best of signs.
Sounds like a pretty wacky filter, will be good to see it in a marketable
form!
Bit of everything thrown in, a frankenfilter.

Swarvegorilla


"Guayni; SAHS" wrote in message
...
The 11 water analysis tests are; pH, Salinity, Dissolved Oxygen, NH4/NH3,
NO2, NO3, PO4, KH, ORP, Ca, SG/Temperature...
All this parameters alone say little about a tank. I put them in an Excel
chart and after normalizing them I got pretty interesting graphs

The 10 points aquarium checks are found in
http://www.guayni.com/Maintenance.htm

A complete service with an hour of tutoring costs $65

As for my publications, I am working on some details before I web-publish
them, they will be available for download. Basically, some of them are
not only mine, there are others and using them for business takes a little
negotiation with my colleagues. There is another little problem; some of
the findings used for my WRU are confidential until I patent the filter.
Nevertheless, I will provide a copy in pdf of the more interesting ones.
Most of them are of wildlife nature in the Florida Keys and the Central
Florida Wetlands.
My publications should not be an obstacle to those who want to see another
angle of the water they have in their aquarium...

I do appreciate your concerns and hope you visit my website again, some of
the graphs I am getting will be published and establish a relationship
between parameters worst noticing.

Thanks again, Jaime


"Pszemol" wrote in message
...
"Guayni; SAHS" wrote in message
...
11 water tests in one visit

What do you test ?

10 points check of your aquarium

What do you check ?

Full scale tutoring to new and seasoned aquarists!

How much per visit ?

p.s. Jaime, on your website you claim you specialize
in wildlife field research and your research resulted
in "numerous publications". Could you provide a list of
your publications here ? I am interested in reading them.

Thanks.

Thanks for the time "mate", the frankenfilter as you call it (sounds good)
is a 20gal tank with Acrylic subdivisions.
It works fine with a 100gal system but I dare say that it will work on
something bigger.

"swarvegorilla" wrote in message
u...
Looks like you have put quite a lot of effort into this.
I wish ya the best of luck mate!!
The leaning towards teaching people...... tis always the best of signs.
Sounds like a pretty wacky filter, will be good to see it in a marketable
form!
Bit of everything thrown in, a frankenfilter.

Swarvegorilla


"Guayni; SAHS" wrote in message
...
The 11 water analysis tests are; pH, Salinity, Dissolved Oxygen, NH4/NH3,
NO2, NO3, PO4, KH, ORP, Ca, SG/Temperature...
All this parameters alone say little about a tank. I put them in an
Excel chart and after normalizing them I got pretty interesting graphs

The 10 points aquarium checks are found in
http://www.guayni.com/Maintenance.htm

A complete service with an hour of tutoring costs $65

As for my publications, I am working on some details before I web-publish
them, they will be available for download. Basically, some of them are
not only mine, there are others and using them for business takes a
little negotiation with my colleagues. There is another little problem;
some of the findings used for my WRU are confidential until I patent the
filter. Nevertheless, I will provide a copy in pdf of the more
interesting ones. Most of them are of wildlife nature in the Florida Keys
and the Central Florida Wetlands.
My publications should not be an obstacle to those who want to see
another angle of the water they have in their aquarium...

I do appreciate your concerns and hope you visit my website again, some
of the graphs I am getting will be published and establish a relationship
between parameters worst noticing.

Thanks again, Jaime


"Pszemol" wrote in message
...
"Guayni; SAHS" wrote in message
...
11 water tests in one visit

What do you test ?

10 points check of your aquarium

What do you check ?

Full scale tutoring to new and seasoned aquarists!

How much per visit ?

p.s. Jaime, on your website you claim you specialize
in wildlife field research and your research resulted
in "numerous publications". Could you provide a list of
your publications here ? I am interested in reading them.

Thanks.

"Guayni; SAHS" wrote in message .. .
Thanks for the time "mate", the frankenfilter as you call it (sounds good)
is a 20gal tank with Acrylic subdivisions.
It works fine with a 100gal system but I dare say that it will work on
something bigger.

Looking at you chemical measurements it DOES NOT WORK
that good even on your 100gal system.

"Pszemol" wrote in message
...
"Guayni; SAHS" wrote in message
.. .
Thanks for the time "mate", the frankenfilter as you call it (sounds
good) is a 20gal tank with Acrylic subdivisions.
It works fine with a 100gal system but I dare say that it will work on
something bigger.

Looking at you chemical measurements it DOES NOT WORK
that good even on your 100gal system.

noticed ya still had a bit of an ammonia and nitrite reading.
Your not cleaning this filter out in chlorinated water are you?
Looks like the bacteria are having a hard time building up
But then thats cycling for ya
I love buildin sumps too hey
altho most are just in square plastic tub things
I need a bigger shed...... I want to put a huge fluidised sand bed filter
on the new system.
Can get almost all the bits for free, and if theres one thing even I can
build it's fbf's!!
Not going to be the main one but it's going to look like it is

"swarvegorilla" wrote in message ...
Looking at you chemical measurements it DOES NOT WORK
that good even on your 100gal system.

noticed ya still had a bit of an ammonia and nitrite reading.
Your not cleaning this filter out in chlorinated water are you?
Looks like the bacteria are having a hard time building up
But then thats cycling for ya

Cycling ? For more than a year cycling ?
It supposed to finish in a month... not a year.

I want to put a huge fluidised sand bed filter
on the new system.
Can get almost all the bits for free, and if theres
one thing even I can build it's fbf's!!

There is no room in a reef tank for a fluidized sand bed filter.
This kind of filter is good for a swimming pool, but not in
a reef tank, where it quickly become a nitrates factory.

The issue here seams to be the lack or erroneous knowledge about the
Nitrogen Cycle.
Ammonia is the most dangerous form of nitrogen in your tank. It gets
oxidized to NO2-(nitrites) by bacteria. The sole presence of nitrites is a
direct indicator that your bacteria is oxidizing Ammonia since it has no
other substantial way of entering your aquarium.
Nitrites get oxidized even further and converted to NO3-(Nitrates)
If your system is low on Ammonia and Nitrites then your bacteria is
oxidizing it to Nitrates.
A nitrates level of higher than 1000ppm is needed to cause death to your
fish. Nevertheless a high concentration (100ppm) will have a direct effect
on your fish's metabolism.
In other words, the job of your bacteria ends there, for Nitrates to be
reduced again to nitrites requires low levels of Oxygen.
Many aquarists remove Nitrates by means of water changes. I chose to remove
it by harvesting algae and by creating a nutrients sink where Nitrates are
confined to a specific place where they feed my algae to be harvested. Is a
principle learned in a Wetlands Ecology class. Is the same principle
mangroves in nature and drainfields in households use.


"Pszemol" wrote in message
...
"swarvegorilla" wrote in message
...
Looking at you chemical measurements it DOES NOT WORK
that good even on your 100gal system.

noticed ya still had a bit of an ammonia and nitrite reading.
Your not cleaning this filter out in chlorinated water are you?
Looks like the bacteria are having a hard time building up
But then thats cycling for ya

Cycling ? For more than a year cycling ?
It supposed to finish in a month... not a year.

I want to put a huge fluidised sand bed filter on the new system.
Can get almost all the bits for free, and if theres
one thing even I can build it's fbf's!!

There is no room in a reef tank for a fluidized sand bed filter.
This kind of filter is good for a swimming pool, but not in
a reef tank, where it quickly become a nitrates factory.

"Guayni; SAHS" wrote in message . ..
The issue here seams to be the lack or erroneous knowledge
about the Nitrogen Cycle.

I agree :-) You have still a lot to learn...

Ammonia is the most dangerous form of nitrogen in your tank.

Any ammonia which is detectable with aquarium-grade tests
in an established aquarium tells you one of the two things:

- your test is wrong/faulty/old/missused

- you have something big and freshly dead, decomposing

In a healthy&cycled tank any amount of ammonia produced by
fish is QUICKLY eaten up by 1st group of bacteria, which
use ammonia and convert them to nitrites. No ammonia should be
detected in the water using usual aquarium-grade tests
because all is quickly neutralized if the biological
filter is working properly...

Simple way to check your test is to measure ammonia level
in a freshly mixed sal****er, there should be no detectable
ammonia there. The same applies to nitrites, of course.

It gets oxidized to NO2-(nitrites) by bacteria. The sole
presence of nitrites is a direct indicator that your bacteria
is oxidizing Ammonia since it has no other substantial way
of entering your aquarium.

Detectable nitrites are also strong indication of
INSUFFICIENT action of the second group of bacteria:
these which take nitrites and produce nitrates...

Nitrites get oxidized even further and converted to NO3-(Nitrates)
If your system is low on Ammonia and Nitrites then your bacteria is
oxidizing it to Nitrates.

0.50 mg/l of ammonia in an estabilished aquarium is HIGH!
It usually means that you can find dead fish in one
of the fish tank corners... These are the levels which
should NEVER be detected in a healthy fish tank...

A nitrates level of higher than 1000ppm is needed to cause death
to your fish. Nevertheless a high concentration (100ppm) will
have a direct effect on your fish's metabolism.

And because we do not want nitrates affect our fish we
strive to keep nitrates BELOW 10mg/l, preferably even
lower in a healthy reef tank (1mg/l and lower if possible).

Using SEACHEM low-range nitrite/nitrates test on the water
from my reef tank I read both nitrite and nitrates 0 mg/l.
Of course it does not mean 0.0000000 it simply means they
are below detection limits of the test. First pink color
on the scale is way below 0.1mg/l so I can say nitrates in
my reef tank is at 0.1mg/l or below - this is dirrect effect
of deep sand bed (DSB) and anoxic layers deeper in this sand
where denitrification occurs in my tank.

The problem is usually with phosphates, which in my tank
(with quite heavy cyanobacteria activity eating phosphates up)
is still above 0.1 mg/l PO4: reading 0.18 mg/l on the HANNA
INSTRUMENTS low-range phosphates photometer/colorimeter (+/- 4%)
My goal is to have them below 0.1mg/l with no ugly cyanobacteria
activity helping to bring it down.

In other words, the job of your bacteria ends there, for Nitrates
to be reduced again to nitrites requires low levels of Oxygen.
Many aquarists remove Nitrates by means of water changes.
I chose to remove it by harvesting algae and by creating a nutrients
sink where Nitrates are confined to a specific place where they
feed my algae to be harvested. Is a principle learned in a Wetlands
Ecology class. Is the same principle mangroves in nature and
drainfields in households use.

The problem is (and you are obviously unable to grasp it) that
nitrates at a level of 50 or 100mg/l are simply NOT TOLERABLE
in a helthy, good looking reef tank. Period!
Reef tanks require the cleanest water possible in aquarium trade!
In the tropical reef waters in the ocean, nitrates level is
usually between 0.1-0.3 mg/l. Let's round it up, generously
to 1mg/l - your tank have 50 or 100 times more nitrates than
the reef water in the ocean. Inorganic phosphate levels are less
than 0.3mg/l with dissolved organic phosphate less than 0.15 mg/l.

If you want to bring your magical filter to the reef tanks market
you need to show that your method keeps phosphates and nitrates
under the levels accepted for a reef tank: 0.1 mg/l and 5 mg/l
respectively.

Think about the problem areas in your tank and come up with
a solution to each of the problems:
- high ammonia (any detectable ammonia in a cycled tank is a concern)
- high nitrites (any detectable nitrites in a cycled tank is a concern)
- high nitrates.

Think of it as your homework to do before you come back here
and repeat your preaching about your magical filter... :-)