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#1
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JB wrote:
I have had a 10 gallon tank with 3 adult sword tail fish 2" in length for about 4½ months.. the water is really dirty because when I did my 50% change as recommended by Tetra, my plastic bucket had some dirt/debree in it that I didn't spot until after I added the 50% remaining water.. You really should change water more frequently. The dirt/debris at the bottom of the bucket isn't anything to worry about... it was in there before you did the water change, you merely put it back. My test kit shows medium water hardness, borderline Nitrate/Nitrate, and border line unsafe PH.. I was told at my recent visit to Petco, that I should completely drain my tank, clean all decor with water and replace all water with filtered water and let sit for a few hours before re-adding my fish.. Also they recommended a bubble stone to introduce more Oxygen into my tank... They said you should do this all at once? I'd recommend removing the ornaments and cleaning one by one, then hoovering the gravel while you do a 50% water change. Then do the same again a week later... then the week after that. Leave a bucket of water out overnight to dechlorinate so you don't have to add any dechlorinating chemicals. Has anyone done this before, and any tips, etc to help along the way?? I hope all fishkeepers have done this before... I do it fortnightly... so should you. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
#2
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![]() nut wrote: JB wrote: I have had a 10 gallon tank with 3 adult sword tail fish 2" in length for about 4½ months.. the water is really dirty because when I did my 50% change as recommended by Tetra, my plastic bucket had some dirt/debree in it that I didn't spot until after I added the 50% remaining water.. You really should change water more frequently. The dirt/debris at the bottom of the bucket isn't anything to worry about.... it was in there before you did the water change, you merely put it back. My test kit shows medium water hardness, borderline Nitrate/Nitrate, and border line unsafe PH.. I was told at my recent visit to Petco, that I should completely drain my tank, clean all decor with water and replace all water with filtered water and let sit for a few hours before re-adding my fish.. Also they recommended a bubble stone to introduce more Oxygen into my tank... They said you should do this all at once? I'd recommend removing the ornaments and cleaning one by one, then hoovering the gravel while you do a 50% water change. Then do the same again a week later... then the week after that. Leave a bucket of water out overnight to dechlorinate so you don't have to add any dechlorinating chemicals. Has anyone done this before, and any tips, etc to help along the way?? I hope all fishkeepers have done this before... I do it fortnightly... so should you. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com I'm using a Whisper Filter with the carbon in the filter cartridge ... Also, should I remove my fish when trying to take out the decor to clean, or leave them in?.. Also, should I just filter water before adding more, or just add my water treatment chemical?... |
#3
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![]() JB wrote: nut wrote: JB wrote: I have had a 10 gallon tank with 3 adult sword tail fish 2" in length for about 4½ months.. the water is really dirty because when I did my 50% change as recommended by Tetra, my plastic bucket had some dirt/debree in it that I didn't spot until after I added the 50% remaining water.. You really should change water more frequently. The dirt/debris at the bottom of the bucket isn't anything to worry about... it was in there before you did the water change, you merely put it back. My test kit shows medium water hardness, borderline Nitrate/Nitrate, and border line unsafe PH.. I was told at my recent visit to Petco, that I should completely drain my tank, clean all decor with water and replace all water with filtered water and let sit for a few hours before re-adding my fish.. Also they recommended a bubble stone to introduce more Oxygen into my tank... They said you should do this all at once? I'd recommend removing the ornaments and cleaning one by one, then hoovering the gravel while you do a 50% water change. Then do the same again a week later... then the week after that. Leave a bucket of water out overnight to dechlorinate so you don't have to add any dechlorinating chemicals. Has anyone done this before, and any tips, etc to help along the way?? I hope all fishkeepers have done this before... I do it fortnightly... so should you. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com I'm using a Whisper Filter with the carbon in the filter cartridge ... Also, should I remove my fish when trying to take out the decor to clean, or leave them in?.. Also, should I just filter water before adding more, or just add my water treatment chemical?... I leave my fish in to avoid extra stress, then add the new water slowly, de-chlorinating it prior or during addition of the water (de-chlorinators are instant). As default stated and clarified better than me is to not over clean your media in your filter. With Whisper filters you can remove the old carbon from the filter "Bio Bag" and add it to your new cartridge to seed it. Also I often use sponge pre filters (such as the Filter Max) on my HOB filters to add to bio filtration and add a margin of safety when you change cartridges, this also helps with the bio weakness of this filter. The addtion of the air stone will aid in circulation. But an additional filter will help even more. You can clean your whole cartridge or a filter sponge by using used aquarium water from a water change and squeeze the sponge or swish the filter cartridge several times until nothing more is expelled form the filter media. You also may use de-chlorinated tap water or well water (without added chemicals) for rinsing your filter media. I often will use both methods and I will use the de-chlorinated tap water for the final rinses until the rinse water in no longer dirty. Try and correct all your water parameters too. Carl More about sponge filtration, including pre filters.: http://www.americanaquariumproducts....iltration.html |
#4
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JB wrote:
nut wrote: JB wrote: I have had a 10 gallon tank with 3 adult sword tail fish 2" in length for about 4½ months.. the water is really dirty because when I did my 50% change as recommended by Tetra, my plastic bucket had some dirt/debree in it that I didn't spot until after I added the 50% remaining water.. You really should change water more frequently. The dirt/debris at the bottom of the bucket isn't anything to worry about... it was in there before you did the water change, you merely put it back. My test kit shows medium water hardness, borderline Nitrate/Nitrate, and border line unsafe PH.. I was told at my recent visit to Petco, that I should completely drain my tank, clean all decor with water and replace all water with filtered water and let sit for a few hours before re-adding my fish.. Also they recommended a bubble stone to introduce more Oxygen into my tank... They said you should do this all at once? I'd recommend removing the ornaments and cleaning one by one, then hoovering the gravel while you do a 50% water change. Then do the same again a week later... then the week after that. Leave a bucket of water out overnight to dechlorinate so you don't have to add any dechlorinating chemicals. Has anyone done this before, and any tips, etc to help along the way?? I hope all fishkeepers have done this before... I do it fortnightly... so should you. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com I'm using a Whisper Filter with the carbon in the filter cartridge ... Also, should I remove my fish when trying to take out the decor to clean, or leave them in?.. Also, should I just filter water before adding more, or just add my water treatment chemical?... The carbon is worthless after a month or two it's no longer "active"... replace it for the white sponge stuff. Always leave the fish in. Fill a bucket of tap water and leave it overnight. Siphon a bucket-full of water out, disturbing the gravel as you do so... try and suck up as much of the crap from the gravel as possible. Don't worry about the water going cloudy. If you haven't siphoned before, treat yourself to a gravel pump... they're very cheap. they're shaped like this: \__ ___/ ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ Then fill the tank back up with the bucket water... don't worry about creating bubbles... it oxygenates the water and the fish like it.... assuming the bucket has been sitting next to the tank overnight the temperature difference is only slight. Don't use any water treatment... so long as the bucket has been sitting overnight all the chlorine in the water will have evaporated. On a 10G tank you can do a 30% (3G bucket) water change every fortnight quite easily and the fish will love you for it... even monthly will be ok (although your filter is crap) ... just don't leave it so long this time... get into the routine of leaving a bucket out on a friday night and it'll all fall into place. Replace the white spongy stuff every two months, but leave half of it in. Alternatively, wash it out with TANK water... but don't use tap water as the chlorine will kill the friendly bacteria. It's the friendly bacteria which has kept your swordtails alive. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
#5
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nut wrote:
Don't use any water treatment... so long as the bucket has been sitting overnight all the chlorine in the water will have evaporated. Although it is true that Chlorine will disapate naturally if water is left to stand the same is not true of chloramines. If you water company uses chloramines in your water it is essential that you use a suitable water conditioner before adding the water into your tank. Personally, I use it even though, at the moment, my Water Company does not use chloramines as I prefer to be able to get the water change task done as efficiently as possible without having buckets of water hanging around overnight - but then I have 6 tanks - and the number of buckets required for a water change on a 130g tank make this quite impractical....also without checking my water company's website each time I change the water I never know if they might have changed their policy on adding chloramines.... Gill |
#6
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Gill Passman wrote:
nut wrote: Don't use any water treatment... so long as the bucket has been sitting overnight all the chlorine in the water will have evaporated. Although it is true that Chlorine will disapate naturally if water is left to stand the same is not true of chloramines. If you water company uses chloramines in your water it is essential that you use a suitable water conditioner before adding the water into your tank. Personally, I use it even though, at the moment, my Water Company does not use chloramines as I prefer to be able to get the water change task done as efficiently as possible without having buckets of water hanging around overnight - but then I have 6 tanks - and the number of buckets required for a water change on a 130g tank make this quite impractical....also without checking my water company's website each time I change the water I never know if they might have changed their policy on adding chloramines.... Thanks for the info Gill... i was unaware of this. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
#7
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![]() I sure am not a big fan of having to buy chemicals to get rid of chlorine either. I add chemical chlorine remover only in a dire emergency other than that I set water out in 5 gal buckets or use water out of the bank of tanks that we have setup and running without any fish in them. Its a constant supply of good water. 24 hours in an open container will remove the chlorine, however as other pointe dout cloramines need chemical remover to get rid of them. They will not dissapate like chlorine will. Luckily the water company here does not use cloramines. On Sat, 6 Jan 2007 15:17:15 -0000, "nut" wrote: Gill Passman wrote: nut wrote: Don't use any water treatment... so long as the bucket has been sitting overnight all the chlorine in the water will have evaporated. Although it is true that Chlorine will disapate naturally if water is left to stand the same is not true of chloramines. If you water company uses chloramines in your water it is essential that you use a suitable water conditioner before adding the water into your tank. Personally, I use it even though, at the moment, my Water Company does not use chloramines as I prefer to be able to get the water change task done as efficiently as possible without having buckets of water hanging around overnight - but then I have 6 tanks - and the number of buckets required for a water change on a 130g tank make this quite impractical....also without checking my water company's website each time I change the water I never know if they might have changed their policy on adding chloramines.... Thanks for the info Gill... i was unaware of this. ------- I forgot more about ponds and koi than I'll ever know! |
#8
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The other thing I forgot to add is that some water also contains heavy
metals that can also be neutralised by the addition of a water conditioner....When chosing a water conditioner it is good to check that it has chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals covered - not all do (or so I've heard) - a lot of conditioners also contain other stuff which claim to benefit/promote fish health - don't know if they do or not.... Gill |
#9
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![]() Gill Passman wrote: nut wrote: Don't use any water treatment... so long as the bucket has been sitting overnight all the chlorine in the water will have evaporated. Although it is true that Chlorine will disapate naturally if water is left to stand the same is not true of chloramines. If you water company uses chloramines in your water it is essential that you use a suitable water conditioner before adding the water into your tank. Personally, I use it even though, at the moment, my Water Company does not use chloramines as I prefer to be able to get the water change task done as efficiently as possible without having buckets of water hanging around overnight - but then I have 6 tanks - and the number of buckets required for a water change on a 130g tank make this quite impractical....also without checking my water company's website each time I change the water I never know if they might have changed their policy on adding chloramines.... Gill That is an excellent point Gill!! I am no longer in So Cal, but many water districts down there (especially) in San Diego use chloramines for city water as they are much more stable than chlorine, and much of the water in these places is transported greater distances and stored longer before use. I would use products such as Prime that removed the chlorine then neutralized the ammonia by changing the ammonia from NH4 to NH3 (chloramines are chlorine bonded to ammonia), the NH3 is much less toxic. Standard chlorine removing products will still break the chlorine from the ammonia and remove the chlorine, but they leave the ammonia in tact for your bio filter to deal with. I understand not wanting to add chemicals to remove chlorine, but most standard chlorine removers are simply Sodium Thiosulfate a relatively harmless Reducing agent that is safely over dosed (of coarse in with in reason). Carl |
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