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#41
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Don, cool off, take a walk in a park or walk your dog
- you are too much fired up to continue this thread. I can come back to your questions in a couple of days. OK? Cheers, Pszemol. |
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"Don Geddis" wrote in message ...
Just to throw in another: anemones are filled with toxins. If you happen to accidentally kill one (e.g. it gets caught in an overflow or pump intake), then you could release a great volume of toxins into the tank all at once. I disagree totally! 1) Even if an anemone is torn in on overflow or pump intake it is not guarantee it will die. They are pretty hardy animals and can survive quite a lot of abuse... Think of them more like Aiptasia :-) I have witnessed personaly a rose bubble tip anemone sucked into pump intake the way WHOLE ORAL DISC was removed and anemone survived. Literally only a stump was left on the rock. In a matter of days the stump healed and guts stopped hanging out from it. In the two more weeks a small oral disc was formed with very little tentacles. Anemone started to feed normally! 2) Anemone body is a thin bag filled with *water*. Not toxins, water! Deflated animal will have almost zero volume of its body. Even if you grind it into pieces and let to rot in your tank you will not cause a major outbreak of ammonia or "toxins" in your tank. The 8-10" rose bubble tip mentioned in the point #1 was damaged in a 10 gallon tank with fish, crabs, two SPS corals, green button polyps and red mushroom corals. All things survived with no issues. There was no water qality issues, no ammonia outbreaks as well. 3) Injured anemone only LOOKS DEAD and rotting, but this is only an illusion! Leave it in the tank untouched and in most cases it will recover. These animals have EXTRAORDINARY capabilities to regrow lost parts of their body and this property is rutinelly used in the asexual propagation of the anemones. Anyone who had ever problems with Aiptasia or Majano anemones in their tanks will confirm how hard is to get rid of them even if you scrape their stump/foot of the rock with a brush... Ornamental anemones like bubble tips are not much different. This is a great example how fish, cats and cows are similar but anemone totaly different. Try cuttin head of a cat and see if it survive... And this is exactly what I was talking before. Agreed. If you kept a Moorish Idol (although I think you said it wasn't doing that well, unfortunately), you should have no problem with a reef. Or even with an anemone. How is the knowledge collected with keeping a morish idol possible to help someone in keeping a healthy sea anemone??? |
#43
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On Sep 28, 3:44 pm, "Pszemol" wrote:
"Don Geddis" wrote in ... Just to throw in another: anemones are filled with toxins. If you happen to accidentally kill one (e.g. it gets caught in an overflow or pump intake), then you could release a great volume of toxins into the tank all at once. I disagree totally! 1) Even if an anemone is torn in on overflow or pump intake it is not guarantee it will die. They are pretty hardy animals and can survive quite a lot of abuse... Think of them more like Aiptasia :-) I have witnessed personaly a rose bubble tip anemone sucked into pump intake the way WHOLE ORAL DISC was removed and anemone survived. Literally only a stump was left on the rock. In a matter of days the stump healed and guts stopped hanging out from it. In the two more weeks a small oral disc was formed with very little tentacles. Anemone started to feed normally! 2) Anemone body is a thin bag filled with *water*. Not toxins, water! Deflated animal will have almost zero volume of its body. Even if you grind it into pieces and let to rot in your tank you will not cause a major outbreak of ammonia or "toxins" in your tank. The 8-10" rose bubble tip mentioned in the point #1 was damaged in a 10 gallon tank with fish, crabs, two SPS corals, green button polyps and red mushroom corals. All things survived with no issues. There was no water qality issues, no ammonia outbreaks as well. 3) Injured anemone only LOOKS DEAD and rotting, but this is only an illusion! Leave it in the tank untouched and in most cases it will recover. These animals have EXTRAORDINARY capabilities to regrow lost parts of their body and this property is rutinelly used in the asexual propagation of the anemones. Anyone who had ever problems with Aiptasia or Majano anemones in their tanks will confirm how hard is to get rid of them even if you scrape their stump/foot of the rock with a brush... Ornamental anemones like bubble tips are not much different. This is a great example how fish, cats and cows are similar but anemone totaly different. Try cuttin head of a cat and see if it survive... And this is exactly what I was talking before. Agreed. If you kept a Moorish Idol (although I think you said it wasn't doing that well, unfortunately), you should have no problem with a reef. Or even with an anemone. How is the knowledge collected with keeping a morish idol possible to help someone in keeping a healthy sea anemone??? I think he was just insinuating that it means I know a little bit about monitoring water quality/conditions etc. Mitch |
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Its not that all LFS's are out to screw you, but...
They are (generally) not reefkeepers themselves, and only need to know enough to keep their livestock until it is sold. It is rare to find an expert LFS that is a reeftaker, and trusting their advise implicity may lead to problems. The LFS may give you advice in good faith, but that still doesn't mean that he is giving you truly knowledgeable or good advice. Generally these gusy just don't know much and as they say a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. On Fri, 28 Sep 2007 12:59:15 -0000, Big Habeeb wrote: Don, Definitely appreciate the feedback...but I just want to clarify a couple of things. I HAVE kept sal****er tanks before, just not reef, so I'm aware of which clowns should and shouldn't be mixed. I also have a reliable LFS whom I trust IMPLICITLY...no offense to the posters here, but as I don't know any of you really, I would trust the LFS over any advice that I receive here (again, I trust this shop and don't think he'd try and screw me to make a buck...if he did, he'd lose my freshwater business, the frys of cichs that I am now bringing to him, and my business of buying supplies for my cats, dog, and snake). I spoke with him last night when I stopped in to pick up the r/o di unit, and he also recommended NOT bringing an anemone into the picture, though his reasoning had more to do with not killing off other corals, than it did for the sake of the anemone itself. The truth is, I am in NO rush to get this up and running. This is a long term project, not a quick 'up and attem' that I've done sometimes setting up cichlid tanks for others. I know that cichs are far 'tougher' to environmental changes than most of the sal****er creatures I'll be looking at...and I also know that there are animals and plants considered "easy, medium, and hard" to keep successfully. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I once kept a moorish idol, certainly considered by most to be a fairly difficult fish to get to thrive in captivity. My plan right now is to start very, VERY slowly. This weekend's goal is to accomplish a couple of things: 1. Get the tank set up, complete with filtration, skimmer, refugarium, powerheads, heater, lights etc. Basically everything that I have so far. 2. Get the substrate in...I plan on using standard non live sand, but I will be buying from the LFS, not from home depot as recommended in an earlier post. For the slight difference in price, I'm willing to take my LFS's word for it that his sand will cause fewer issues than sandbox type sand. 3. Get the water in, with the proper salt mix. 4. After allowing to run for a bit, use my test kit to see what the water looks like in its 'stock' state with no livestock. That way I'll know if my r/o unit is working correctly, and if there's anything weird about my local water that I need to be aware of. At this point I'm not fully 'reefed' yet, so if it turns out my water is funky, I can still change over and just do a fish only tank (which would be disappointing, but I'm not going to fight a losing battle of forcing something to try to live in water it simply can't live in). That's literally ALL I have planned for this weekend. Once I'm confident that things are running as they're supposed to, I will be visiting the LFS again (likely NEXT weekend) to pick up a combination of uncured live rock and dried corals. I'll use the dry corals in the bank to setup a base (since they won't be seen) and then stack the live rock appropriately, remembering that I need to make sure the rocks are touching the bottom of the tank, not sitting on top of my substrate. Once THAT is done, I'm done for a couple of weeks. I'll monitor the water quality daily, again using the test kid, and see how well it starts cycling. I have no intention of rushing in to stocking the tank with other corals or fish. As far as I'm concerned, it can sit in this state for months, if needbe (and yes, from all I've read, I know a couple weeks should be sufficient). I really do plan on taking my time with this. I know from experience that first time aquarium keepers biggest error is typically rushing too much stuff into their tank. I've built small fish-only salt water environments for other people, and watched them DESTROY hundreds of dollars worth of livestock by not cycling properly, or by overstocking a tank. The people who listen, and wait, and are patient typically have far more success. I myself DID screw up my first freshwater tank, overstocked, and watched as the fish died one by one. This is not a mistake I will ever repeat. As for the question of anemones, I would eventually like to add one, but this is way, way, WAY down the line once I'm comfortable: with both the process and my setup, keeping in mind this is my first time using an overflow and refugium...a large departure from hanging filtration or even the cannisters I'm used to. I hope that sets everyone's mind at ease that, while not THE most educated person on reef keeping, I am fortunately not an idiot either...and in fact am reading "the new marine aquarium" as we speak. Mitch On Sep 27, 7:26 pm, Don Geddis wrote: "Pszemol" wrote on Wed, 26 Sep 2007: "Don Geddis" wrote in ... Fortunately, clowns do just fine in tanks with no sea anemones. So get the clowns -- but hold off on the sea anemones. Or... get the books I recomended, educate yourself and then it will be easy to not only keep clowns in a healthy anemone but with no problems have them mate and lay eggs every two weeks like mine maroons do. You're talking to a poster who has never had a sal****er tank before, certainly never even raised corals. You take a bunch of random guys off the street. Give them their very first sal****er tank. For one group, give them only some clownfish in the tank. For another group, give them clownfish and a host sea anemone. You wanna have two guesses which group is going to wind up with more livestock deaths? Compared to sea anemones, fish (esp. clownfish) are FAR more resilient to great variations in: temperate, water quality, salinity, lighting, getting caught in filters/overflows, etc. Yes, it's POSSIBLE to raise sea anemones (and I've done it too). But it's irresponsible to recommend that to a brand-new reefkeeper. Especially if you imply that it's just as "easy" keeping anemones as it is to keep clownfish. That's just false. It's possible, but it's not nearly as easy. If things start to go wrong in your tank, it's the anemone that's going to die first, not the clownfish. Anemones are just very different animals than these we are used to in our terrestial lives. So unless you read about their needs, understand how their body functions - yes, you will kill anemones easily... But this is not a reason to not keep them - different does not mean they are difficult! Clownfish live in the ocean too. But are far, far easier to keep alive than anemones are. They are different and this is a perfect reason to educate yourself, do some reading from trusted sources about host anemones and than you will have all the tools you need to keep a helthy one. I know how to keep a healthy sea anemone. I still wouldn't recommend it to a brand new first-time reefkeeper. And you shouldn't either. Keeping a single clownfish in a tank with other fish is kind of cruel in my view - these are social fish and are best kept in pairs (Maroons) or small groups (any other types, including your well known "Nemo"). Recall that we're talking to somebody who knows nothing. Getting "a clownfish" will work just fine. Getting "a bunch of clownfish" may or may not. Is he going to mix species, or can he tell them apart? Will he get all juveniles? Put a pair of female maroons in the same small tank and they'll kill each other. Put a maroon in with a different species, and the maroon will probably kill the other clown. Etc. Yes, all this is possible, if you learn the details. But why make things difficult for a guy buying his very first fish? Single clownfish in a tank with other bigger fish will be stressed. I don't believe you. Proof? Of course, any small fish will be stressed in a tank with bigger aggressive fish. But I don't think there's anything special about clowns that requires them in groups. Any more than any other fish which is usually found in groups in nature. -- Don __________________________________________________ _________________________*____ Don Geddis http://reef.geddis.org/ And so the Russian people made do on whatever ration of rice and suet the stores were handing out to the people waiting in the interminable lines in the dark and the snow that week; they went to sleep hungry and malnourished but much cheered by the certainty that no greedy capitalists were making obscene profits by actually delivering them any chicken. |
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On Sep 28, 4:12 pm, gaijin wrote:
Its not that all LFS's are out to screw you, but... They are (generally) not reefkeepers themselves, and only need to know enough to keep their livestock until it is sold. It is rare to find an expert LFS that is a reeftaker, and trusting their advise implicity may lead to problems. The LFS may give you advice in good faith, but that still doesn't mean that he is giving you truly knowledgeable or good advice. Generally these gusy just don't know much and as they say a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. On Fri, 28 Sep 2007 12:59:15 -0000, Big Habeeb wrote: Don, Definitely appreciate the feedback...but I just want to clarify a couple of things. I HAVE kept sal****er tanks before, just not reef, so I'm aware of which clowns should and shouldn't be mixed. I also have a reliable LFS whom I trust IMPLICITLY...no offense to the posters here, but as I don't know any of you really, I would trust the LFS over any advice that I receive here (again, I trust this shop and don't think he'd try and screw me to make a buck...if he did, he'd lose my freshwater business, the frys of cichs that I am now bringing to him, and my business of buying supplies for my cats, dog, and snake). I spoke with him last night when I stopped in to pick up the r/o di unit, and he also recommended NOT bringing an anemone into the picture, though his reasoning had more to do with not killing off other corals, than it did for the sake of the anemone itself. The truth is, I am in NO rush to get this up and running. This is a long term project, not a quick 'up and attem' that I've done sometimes setting up cichlid tanks for others. I know that cichs are far 'tougher' to environmental changes than most of the sal****er creatures I'll be looking at...and I also know that there are animals and plants considered "easy, medium, and hard" to keep successfully. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I once kept a moorish idol, certainly considered by most to be a fairly difficult fish to get to thrive in captivity. My plan right now is to start very, VERY slowly. This weekend's goal is to accomplish a couple of things: 1. Get the tank set up, complete with filtration, skimmer, refugarium, powerheads, heater, lights etc. Basically everything that I have so far. 2. Get the substrate in...I plan on using standard non live sand, but I will be buying from the LFS, not from home depot as recommended in an earlier post. For the slight difference in price, I'm willing to take my LFS's word for it that his sand will cause fewer issues than sandbox type sand. 3. Get the water in, with the proper salt mix. 4. After allowing to run for a bit, use my test kit to see what the water looks like in its 'stock' state with no livestock. That way I'll know if my r/o unit is working correctly, and if there's anything weird about my local water that I need to be aware of. At this point I'm not fully 'reefed' yet, so if it turns out my water is funky, I can still change over and just do a fish only tank (which would be disappointing, but I'm not going to fight a losing battle of forcing something to try to live in water it simply can't live in). That's literally ALL I have planned for this weekend. Once I'm confident that things are running as they're supposed to, I will be visiting the LFS again (likely NEXT weekend) to pick up a combination of uncured live rock and dried corals. I'll use the dry corals in the bank to setup a base (since they won't be seen) and then stack the live rock appropriately, remembering that I need to make sure the rocks are touching the bottom of the tank, not sitting on top of my substrate. Once THAT is done, I'm done for a couple of weeks. I'll monitor the water quality daily, again using the test kid, and see how well it starts cycling. I have no intention of rushing in to stocking the tank with other corals or fish. As far as I'm concerned, it can sit in this state for months, if needbe (and yes, from all I've read, I know a couple weeks should be sufficient). I really do plan on taking my time with this. I know from experience that first time aquarium keepers biggest error is typically rushing too much stuff into their tank. I've built small fish-only salt water environments for other people, and watched them DESTROY hundreds of dollars worth of livestock by not cycling properly, or by overstocking a tank. The people who listen, and wait, and are patient typically have far more success. I myself DID screw up my first freshwater tank, overstocked, and watched as the fish died one by one. This is not a mistake I will ever repeat. As for the question of anemones, I would eventually like to add one, but this is way, way, WAY down the line once I'm comfortable: with both the process and my setup, keeping in mind this is my first time using an overflow and refugium...a large departure from hanging filtration or even the cannisters I'm used to. I hope that sets everyone's mind at ease that, while not THE most educated person on reef keeping, I am fortunately not an idiot either...and in fact am reading "the new marine aquarium" as we speak. Mitch On Sep 27, 7:26 pm, Don Geddis wrote: "Pszemol" wrote on Wed, 26 Sep 2007: "Don Geddis" wrote in ... Fortunately, clowns do just fine in tanks with no sea anemones. So get the clowns -- but hold off on the sea anemones. Or... get the books I recomended, educate yourself and then it will be easy to not only keep clowns in a healthy anemone but with no problems have them mate and lay eggs every two weeks like mine maroons do. You're talking to a poster who has never had a sal****er tank before, certainly never even raised corals. You take a bunch of random guys off the street. Give them their very first sal****er tank. For one group, give them only some clownfish in the tank. For another group, give them clownfish and a host sea anemone. You wanna have two guesses which group is going to wind up with more livestock deaths? Compared to sea anemones, fish (esp. clownfish) are FAR more resilient to great variations in: temperate, water quality, salinity, lighting, getting caught in filters/overflows, etc. Yes, it's POSSIBLE to raise sea anemones (and I've done it too). But it's irresponsible to recommend that to a brand-new reefkeeper. Especially if you imply that it's just as "easy" keeping anemones as it is to keep clownfish. That's just false. It's possible, but it's not nearly as easy. If things start to go wrong in your tank, it's the anemone that's going to die first, not the clownfish. Anemones are just very different animals than these we are used to in our terrestial lives. So unless you read about their needs, understand how their body functions - yes, you will kill anemones easily... But this is not a reason to not keep them - different does not mean they are difficult! Clownfish live in the ocean too. But are far, far easier to keep alive than anemones are. They are different and this is a perfect reason to educate yourself, do some reading from trusted sources about host anemones and than you will have all the tools you need to keep a helthy one. I know how to keep a healthy sea anemone. I still wouldn't recommend it to a brand new first-time reefkeeper. And you shouldn't either. Keeping a single clownfish in a tank with other fish is kind of cruel in my view - these are social fish and are best kept in pairs (Maroons) or small groups (any other types, including your well known "Nemo"). Recall that we're talking to somebody who knows nothing. Getting "a clownfish" will work just fine. Getting "a bunch of clownfish" may or may not. Is he going to mix species, or can he tell them apart? Will he get all juveniles? Put a pair of female maroons in the same small tank and they'll kill each other. Put a maroon in with a different species, and the maroon will probably kill the other clown. Etc. Yes, all this is possible, if you learn the details. But why make things difficult for a guy buying his very first fish? Single clownfish in a tank with other bigger fish will be stressed. I don't believe you. Proof? Of course, any small fish will be stressed in a tank with bigger aggressive fish. But I don't think there's anything special about clowns that requires them in groups. Any more than any other fish which is usually found in groups in nature. -- Don __________________________________________________ _________________________**____ Don Geddis http://reef.geddis.org/ And so the Russian people made do on whatever ration of rice and suet the stores were handing out to the people waiting in the interminable lines in the dark and the snow that week; they went to sleep hungry and malnourished but much cheered by the certainty that no greedy capitalists were making obscene profits by actually delivering them any chicken.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Gaijin, I'm lucky - the LFS I do most of my business with (Pet Shanty in Scotch Plains, NJ) has not one, but 3 guys who practice what they preach. They're all knowledgable, and in fact have several tanks that are of the 'not for sale' variety in the store, to show off their abilities (they have a TREMENDOUS 30 year old coral named 'steve' in a tank by the front of the store). There's another one a little ways up the road who I trust somewhat, but honestly will not be going there for livestock. I trust them enough to buy equipment, but beyond that they seem somewhat shady...willing to tell you that just about anything is OK to make a sale (they're the ones who originally had me put a moorish idol in my tank). I've used them for most of the equipment I purchased, owing to better prices, but any live rock, fish, coral etc will be purchased from the first shop I mentioned. The fact that they do have 'keeper' tanks helps set my mind at ease that they do know what they are doing...and while it's unlikely I'll have all the 'best' equipment as these tanks likely do, I still trust that they won't send me in the wrong direction completely. As I mentioned previously, I take care of all of my various pets from this shop (cats, dog, snake, cichlids), and while they do well with the other stuff, fish and sal****er in particular is where they really, really shine. Mitch |
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Big Habeeb wrote:
The truth is, I am in NO rush to get this up and running. This is a long term project, not a quick 'up and attem' that I've done sometimes setting up cichlid tanks for others. I know that cichs are far 'tougher' to environmental changes than most of the sal****er creatures I'll be looking at...and I also know that there are animals and plants considered "easy, medium, and hard" to keep successfully. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I once kept a moorish idol, certainly considered by most to be a fairly difficult fish to get to thrive in captivity. I know exactly what you mean about not rushing into it.......I'm a freshwater person and only started with marine/reef a year ago.....my big tank has been up and running for 5 months now but is still nowhere completed.....part of the pleasure for me is the research, the learning curve and the slow gradual introduction of fish......I never really rushed the freshwater stuff either the exception being my Mbuna tank because of territorial issues if you don't add the fish quickly - but it has now been over 3 years since I've needed to touch the tank other than very frequent maintenance - actually I believe it is more work than either of my sal****er tanks - but that is down to the Mbuna habit of overstocking the tank by breeding and their dirty eating habits.... My plan right now is to start very, VERY slowly. This weekend's goal is to accomplish a couple of things: 1. Get the tank set up, complete with filtration, skimmer, refugarium, powerheads, heater, lights etc. Basically everything that I have so far. 2. Get the substrate in...I plan on using standard non live sand, but I will be buying from the LFS, not from home depot as recommended in an earlier post. For the slight difference in price, I'm willing to take my LFS's word for it that his sand will cause fewer issues than sandbox type sand. 3. Get the water in, with the proper salt mix. 4. After allowing to run for a bit, use my test kit to see what the water looks like in its 'stock' state with no livestock. That way I'll know if my r/o unit is working correctly, and if there's anything weird about my local water that I need to be aware of. At this point I'm not fully 'reefed' yet, so if it turns out my water is funky, I can still change over and just do a fish only tank (which would be disappointing, but I'm not going to fight a losing battle of forcing something to try to live in water it simply can't live in). That's literally ALL I have planned for this weekend. Once I'm confident that things are running as they're supposed to, I will be visiting the LFS again (likely NEXT weekend) to pick up a combination of uncured live rock and dried corals. I'll use the dry corals in the bank to setup a base (since they won't be seen) and then stack the live rock appropriately, remembering that I need to make sure the rocks are touching the bottom of the tank, not sitting on top of my substrate. Once THAT is done, I'm done for a couple of weeks. I'll monitor the water quality daily, again using the test kid, and see how well it starts cycling. I have no intention of rushing in to stocking the tank with other corals or fish. As far as I'm concerned, it can sit in this state for months, if needbe (and yes, from all I've read, I know a couple weeks should be sufficient). Your time scale is pretty much the same as I did.......I got comments from visiting friends and relatives about how boring the thing looked but I didn't care - I would prefer it to be successful rather than worry about appearances. 5 months on I still don't have all the fish that I want nor the corals or inverts.....money of course is a good brake on expenditure with the expense of the stuff but it is not the only one.... I really do plan on taking my time with this. I know from experience that first time aquarium keepers biggest error is typically rushing too much stuff into their tank. I've built small fish-only salt water environments for other people, and watched them DESTROY hundreds of dollars worth of livestock by not cycling properly, or by overstocking a tank. The people who listen, and wait, and are patient typically have far more success. I myself DID screw up my first freshwater tank, overstocked, and watched as the fish died one by one. This is not a mistake I will ever repeat. Having marine fish or corals/inverts die is way more expensive than freshwater although emotionally just the same. I lost a £30 Bi-colour angel by adding a Coral Beauty 2 days later - the Coral Beauty still rules the roost but the female tomato clown comes a very close second.... I've found the discussion on the various temperaments of Clownfish in this thread very interesting.....I have a pair of Percula clowns in my little 15 gall tank - I bought them both as Juveniles and went for the largest and the smallest in the tank at the LFS - they truly seem to be a couple and have spawned but without success - I need to get on the ball with this - maybe a project for the long winter months. The 15 gall did not work very well as a nano reef so it is now a FOWLR with just the clowns and some hermits......I never put an anenome in with them but they adopted a feather duster - sad and sorry tale as they got rough with him and decapitated him in the end...... Now, the tomato clowns I have in the bigger tank were sold to me as a breeding pair and to be quite honest I rather think the female hates the male as she chases him mercilessly.....and they do not have the close relationship that my Percula clowns do........so it has been interesting to read about the different agression levels with the same sub species....again they don't have an anenome in the tank with them but do have a rather vicious Hammer Head (stung me 3 days ago and I'm still smarting - own fault of course as I didn't get it to retract before working on some algae close to it)..... As for the question of anemones, I would eventually like to add one, but this is way, way, WAY down the line once I'm comfortable: with both the process and my setup, keeping in mind this is my first time using an overflow and refugium...a large departure from hanging filtration or even the cannisters I'm used to. One of the big differences I found was the different concept with gravel cleaning......with fw it is a gravel vac, gravel vac and keep everything clean unless heavily planted....with the sw gravel vacs are a big no, no......but I love the concept of the whole filtration system being done by the LR....... I hope that sets everyone's mind at ease that, while not THE most educated person on reef keeping, I am fortunately not an idiot either...and in fact am reading "the new marine aquarium" as we speak. Mitch Me, neither......but I am enjoying the challenge of my reef adventure....a friend came over today who I haven't seen since setting up the bigger tank and it was all wow.....whereas I'm standing there saying it's still a work in progress and this needs doing and that needs doing and making excuses for what I see as its failings......maybe it is the difference in perception of a hobbyist and a layman.... :-) Gill On Sep 27, 7:26 pm, Don Geddis wrote: "Pszemol" wrote on Wed, 26 Sep 2007: "Don Geddis" wrote in ... Fortunately, clowns do just fine in tanks with no sea anemones. So get the clowns -- but hold off on the sea anemones. Or... get the books I recomended, educate yourself and then it will be easy to not only keep clowns in a healthy anemone but with no problems have them mate and lay eggs every two weeks like mine maroons do. You're talking to a poster who has never had a sal****er tank before, certainly never even raised corals. You take a bunch of random guys off the street. Give them their very first sal****er tank. For one group, give them only some clownfish in the tank. For another group, give them clownfish and a host sea anemone. You wanna have two guesses which group is going to wind up with more livestock deaths? Compared to sea anemones, fish (esp. clownfish) are FAR more resilient to great variations in: temperate, water quality, salinity, lighting, getting caught in filters/overflows, etc. Yes, it's POSSIBLE to raise sea anemones (and I've done it too). But it's irresponsible to recommend that to a brand-new reefkeeper. Especially if you imply that it's just as "easy" keeping anemones as it is to keep clownfish. That's just false. It's possible, but it's not nearly as easy. If things start to go wrong in your tank, it's the anemone that's going to die first, not the clownfish. Anemones are just very different animals than these we are used to in our terrestial lives. So unless you read about their needs, understand how their body functions - yes, you will kill anemones easily... But this is not a reason to not keep them - different does not mean they are difficult! Clownfish live in the ocean too. But are far, far easier to keep alive than anemones are. They are different and this is a perfect reason to educate yourself, do some reading from trusted sources about host anemones and than you will have all the tools you need to keep a helthy one. I know how to keep a healthy sea anemone. I still wouldn't recommend it to a brand new first-time reefkeeper. And you shouldn't either. Keeping a single clownfish in a tank with other fish is kind of cruel in my view - these are social fish and are best kept in pairs (Maroons) or small groups (any other types, including your well known "Nemo"). Recall that we're talking to somebody who knows nothing. Getting "a clownfish" will work just fine. Getting "a bunch of clownfish" may or may not. Is he going to mix species, or can he tell them apart? Will he get all juveniles? Put a pair of female maroons in the same small tank and they'll kill each other. Put a maroon in with a different species, and the maroon will probably kill the other clown. Etc. Yes, all this is possible, if you learn the details. But why make things difficult for a guy buying his very first fish? Single clownfish in a tank with other bigger fish will be stressed. I don't believe you. Proof? Of course, any small fish will be stressed in a tank with bigger aggressive fish. But I don't think there's anything special about clowns that requires them in groups. Any more than any other fish which is usually found in groups in nature. -- Don ________________________________________________ ___________________________*____ Don Geddis http://reef.geddis.org/ And so the Russian people made do on whatever ration of rice and suet the stores were handing out to the people waiting in the interminable lines in the dark and the snow that week; they went to sleep hungry and malnourished but much cheered by the certainty that no greedy capitalists were making obscene profits by actually delivering them any chicken. |
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gaijin wrote:
Its not that all LFS's are out to screw you, but... They are (generally) not reefkeepers themselves, and only need to know enough to keep their livestock until it is sold. It is rare to find an expert LFS that is a reeftaker, and trusting their advise implicity may lead to problems. The LFS may give you advice in good faith, but that still doesn't mean that he is giving you truly knowledgeable or good advice. Generally these gusy just don't know much and as they say a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. I find this very sad and every time I read this on the groups it makes me more and more thankful for the quality of expertise that I get in the LFS's that I go to.......for example I went into one of them this week when it was quiet and got the following different questions from 4 members of staff with genuine interest and good advice: 1. How's the reef going? 2. How's the pond developing? 3. How are the community fish doing? 4. How are the Mbunas? And then when I was taking the RO water out to the car (and yes I'm buying my own unit in the next couple of months) - OK the person I coerced to take it to the car for me, started talking about Discus (another project I'm embarking on) - he breeds them and gave me some great tips all of which are backed up by my research.... They employ at least 4 staff who have their own reef tanks and all of their staff keep fish themselves......and are employed for their specialist knowledge - they are expected to cross train but you quickly learn to find those that don't have a true passion for the set ups/fish they are selling...... Gill |
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How do the LFS's strings feel when he pulls them?
Are they tight around your arms? Listen LFS's have only one thing in common, THEY WANT YOUR MONEY and they will do whatever it takes to EARN YOURS BUSINESS... iy "Gill Passman" wrote in message ... gaijin wrote: Its not that all LFS's are out to screw you, but... They are (generally) not reefkeepers themselves, and only need to know enough to keep their livestock until it is sold. It is rare to find an expert LFS that is a reeftaker, and trusting their advise implicity may lead to problems. The LFS may give you advice in good faith, but that still doesn't mean that he is giving you truly knowledgeable or good advice. Generally these gusy just don't know much and as they say a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. I find this very sad and every time I read this on the groups it makes me more and more thankful for the quality of expertise that I get in the LFS's that I go to.......for example I went into one of them this week when it was quiet and got the following different questions from 4 members of staff with genuine interest and good advice: 1. How's the reef going? 2. How's the pond developing? 3. How are the community fish doing? 4. How are the Mbunas? And then when I was taking the RO water out to the car (and yes I'm buying my own unit in the next couple of months) - OK the person I coerced to take it to the car for me, started talking about Discus (another project I'm embarking on) - he breeds them and gave me some great tips all of which are backed up by my research.... They employ at least 4 staff who have their own reef tanks and all of their staff keep fish themselves......and are employed for their specialist knowledge - they are expected to cross train but you quickly learn to find those that don't have a true passion for the set ups/fish they are selling...... Gill |
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"Pszemol" wrote on Fri, 28 Sep 2007:
"Don Geddis" wrote in message ... Just to throw in another: anemones are filled with toxins. If you happen to accidentally kill one (e.g. it gets caught in an overflow or pump intake), then you could release a great volume of toxins into the tank all at once. I disagree totally! Well, let's have a debate then! 1) Even if an anemone is torn in on overflow or pump intake it is not guarantee it will die. Of course it isn't a guarantee of death. But it's surely highly correlated with near-term death. Happens often enough. They are pretty hardy animals and can survive quite a lot of abuse... Think of them more like Aiptasia :-) Not a chance. I have a hard time killing Aiptasia anemones even deliberately. Cut them in half, grind them up, stop feeding, little light. The damn things just show up everywhere. Can't get rid of them. If you asked me to kill a rose bubble tip, it wouldn't last a week. I have witnessed personaly a rose bubble tip anemone sucked into pump intake the way WHOLE ORAL DISC was removed and anemone survived. Literally only a stump was left on the rock. In a matter of days the stump healed and guts stopped hanging out from it. In the two more weeks a small oral disc was formed with very little tentacles. Anemone started to feed normally! That's a great story. But hardly a common one. Anemones getting ripped apart by pumps, and then dying, is far more common. Another difference with Aiptasias. You toss a single Aiptasia into a pump, and your whole tank will be filled with Aiptasias within a month. In constrast, you toss a rose bubble tip into a pump intake, and you'll almost certainly not have any rose bubble tip left a month from now. Your anecdote notwithstanding. 2) Anemone body is a thin bag filled with *water*. Not toxins, water! Did I restrict my comment to the body of the anemone? The tentacles are filled with toxins, which is how the anemones regularly kill nearby corals. They're designed to be released in small amounts, on contact. But if you grind up a whole bubble tip in a pump, all the toxins from all the tentacles will be release into the water in a short time period, as the animal disintegrates. In the ocean, this isn't a problem. But in a tank with limited water volume, you can wind up with great trouble for your other livestock. Deflated animal will have almost zero volume of its body. Even if you grind it into pieces and let to rot in your tank you will not cause a major outbreak of ammonia or "toxins" in your tank. I wasn't talking about ammonia from the decomposition of the physical mass of the anemone body. You're right that anemones have surprisingly little mass given their fully-inflated volume. I was talking about the toxins built up in the attacking tentacles. 3) Injured anemone only LOOKS DEAD and rotting, but this is only an illusion! Leave it in the tank untouched and in most cases it will recover. I disagree completely with your "in most cases" phrase. Yes, it's possible. But, unlike Aiptasia, you can't take bubble tips and regularly chop them up into ten pieces with a knife, and expect to get ten healthy individuals in a few months' time. These animals have EXTRAORDINARY capabilities to regrow lost parts of their body and this property is rutinelly used in the asexual propagation of the anemones. Anyone who had ever problems with Aiptasia or Majano anemones in their tanks will confirm how hard is to get rid of them even if you scrape their stump/foot of the rock with a brush... Ornamental anemones like bubble tips are not much different. Bubble tips are hugely different in this respect, from Aiptasia and Majanos. Bubble tips are far, far, far less robust from damage than those other species. This is a great example how fish, cats and cows are similar but anemone totaly different. Try cuttin head of a cat and see if it survive... And this is exactly what I was talking before. Sure, of course there are some properties that are different. Fish, cats, and cows have eyes, for example, and anemones don't. I still think it's crazy to believe that caring for fish is more similar to caring for cats/cows than caring for sea anemones. Agreed. If you kept a Moorish Idol (although I think you said it wasn't doing that well, unfortunately), you should have no problem with a reef. Or even with an anemone. How is the knowledge collected with keeping a morish idol possible to help someone in keeping a healthy sea anemone??? Obviously, the basics of keeping a stable ocean environment. Salinity, temperature, water changes, feeding schedule, freshwater topoff, cleaning the glass, etc. etc. etc. For a Moorish Idol in particular, it includes a sensitivity to minor environmental changes, as well as a specialized diet. Most fish you can just toss anything barely edible into the tank, and they'll get by. You've got to be a little more careful when taking care of a Moorish Idol. As you similarly must be a little more careful when taking care of an anemone. But the basics of care, in terms of 90% of what you spend your days and hours doing, is the same with any tropical fish tank. -- Don __________________________________________________ _____________________________ Don Geddis http://reef.geddis.org/ Measure wealth not by the things you have, but by the things you have for which you would not take money. |
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Inabón Yunes wrote:
How do the LFS's strings feel when he pulls them? Are they tight around your arms? Listen LFS's have only one thing in common, THEY WANT YOUR MONEY and they will do whatever it takes to EARN YOURS BUSINESS... iy Hmmmmm.....well I would personally prefer to spend my money in a place that shows an interest, gives good advice service and has healthy well cared for stock looked after by hobbyists that work in the shop rather than somewhere that might be cheaper but does not have that level of customer service.....sure they want my money but I have a choice as to where I can shop so places with bad, uncaring service from unknowledgable staff won't get my business......not a matter of string pulling more a matter of good commercial sense from the LFS Gill |
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