Curing ick

On Aug 25, 1:51*pm, "NoSpam" wrote:
"mike d." wrote in message

news
I had three or four fish in a ninety-two gallon tank, and they got
ick, and I treated it(the tank) with the blue copper compound *but I
didn't remove any charcoal. I don't know if my charcoal was old and
spent, or if it just didn't stop the action of the copper sulfate,
but the fish very quickly & very completely *recovered. *Mike.
"Gottcha" wrote in message
...
I recently had an ick outbreak in my tank and was wondering. If i
add kick
ick do i need to take my activated carbon out of my filter? I was
told that
it will remove all medications from the water.

Activated carbon absorbs what it can in about 1 week. Then it is
'used' and will do nothing. You should replace it.

If you had a UV sterilizer and a cleaner shrimp it would be rare that
you get ick in the first place, and if you do just increase the amount
of time the UV light is on.

If you get ick again dip the fish in a separate container of distilled
water or RO/DI water for around 1 minute.

You will NEVER get rid of all the copper (a poison) but do several 50%
water changes and you'll be able to reduce the amount.

3-4 pounds of live sand + whatever amount of white sterilized play
sand (home depot) will give you 100% live sand in around 9 months. For
a 6' tank you'd want a 3" sand bed.

Putting vcoper in a marine fish tank is bad to do. A quick and simple
dip in RODI water that is preferablly temp and PH matched tothe tanks
water is a very effective way to fix an ICH problem. Use a separate
tank or container to use for the dip of about 1 or 2 minutes. I let em
in for as long as possible or up till the fish starts to stress out. I
also like to keep the tank free of any fish for a couple of weeks as
well after the infected fish are removed in additon to healthy fish as
without a host the ich parasite will die. It pays to have a basic bare
hospital or quarantine tank with fresh or salt water fish.

Odds are you may have problems if you ever decide to have any inverts
with the copper that is in any live rock or silicone seals, but if its
a fish only tank its not a problem other than the usual staining of
the silicone seals. When you dip a marine fish with ICH in freshwater
you can literally see the parasites
"explode and drop off the fish"

expat wrote:

...
Putting vcoper in a marine fish tank is bad to do. A quick and simple
dip in RODI water that is preferablly temp and PH matched tothe tanks
water is a very effective way to fix an ICH problem. Use a separate
tank or container to use for the dip of about 1 or 2 minutes. I let em
in for as long as possible or up till the fish starts to stress out. I
also like to keep the tank free of any fish for a couple of weeks as
well after the infected fish are removed in additon to healthy fish as
without a host the ich parasite will die. It pays to have a basic bare
hospital or quarantine tank with fresh or salt water fish.

Odds are you may have problems if you ever decide to have any inverts
with the copper that is in any live rock or silicone seals, but if its
a fish only tank its not a problem other than the usual staining of
the silicone seals. When you dip a marine fish with ICH in freshwater
you can literally see the parasites
"explode and drop off the fish"

I think they refer to the above as "The Fools Cure", in honor of you ...
8-)

Most people would use a hospital tank to limit the amount of expensive
meds used, save non-ill fish from having to suffer treatment, etc.

But with a fool, such as yourself, anything probably goes ... :-(

Perhaps you and your gay buddies can use the Reverse Osmosis -
De-Ionized water for your daily enemas, instead?

The only, re-occuring, problem I have found in news groups is the
worthless-brain-dead postings done by gay-inbreeding-georgians, such as
expat (attempts to claim it is an "ex-pathetic-fool", or just shortened
to "expat." -- Others claim he makes it attempt to stand for
"ex-pathetic retard.")

Any using these news groups will have to learn how to filter his posts ...

Regards,
JS


Regards,
JS

A hospital tank is what is needed when treating a fish who is sick with
any illness. You don't want to infect the other fishes in the tank. Ick
is caused by stress to the fish. A hospital tank is also useful when
buying a new fish and getting him acclimated before he goes in the main
tank, also to make sure he's not sick and bringing a disease into your tank
A fresh water dip will cure the fish of the ick right away. A cleaner
shrimp will also cure the fish,but may take a bit longer. A U.V.
sterilizer? from everything I've read, is not recommenced in reef
environment. It will kill ALL bacteria even the the ones you want in
the tank.
Sometimes doing a little research on you own, will answer the very
question you seek to answer.

Peter Pan wrote:
A U.V.
sterilizer? from everything I've read, is not recommenced in reef
environment. It will kill ALL bacteria even the the ones you want in
the tank.

It would be nice if they actually worked that well, but they don't. Regardless
of whether they are advisable with reef tanks, they aren't good enough to kill
ick. The best you can hope for is to reduce the spread of the disease when the
protozoa reaches the free-swimming stage.

George Patterson
The cost of living hasn't affected its popularity.

On Aug 25, 10:46*pm, George Patterson wrote:
Peter Pan wrote:
A U.V.
sterilizer? from everything I've read, is not recommenced in reef
environment. It will kill *ALL bacteria even the the ones you want in
the tank.

It would be nice if they actually worked that well, but they don't. Regardless
of whether they are advisable with reef tanks, they aren't good enough to kill
ick. The best you can hope for is to reduce the spread of the disease when the
protozoa reaches the free-swimming stage.

George Patterson
* * The cost of living hasn't affected its popularity.

Evidently JOhn Smith the dumbass has to buy large quanities of crap
since he is so inept at keeping fish healthy. Gravel ina ****ing
sal****er setup your clueless dude as thatw as what the OP was asking
about you dipshipt from a looney farm.....No go get a clue and take
some of that copper treatment for your own maladies you clueless twit.
OH, your momma says I am the only one that ever satisfied her, and
your wife says my dogs did her so good that she is never going to give
you any more, so your stuck with your fist and wanking for ever.

expat wrote:
On Aug 25, 10:46 pm, George Patterson wrote:
Peter Pan wrote:
A U.V.
sterilizer? from everything I've read, is not recommenced in reef
environment. It will kill ALL bacteria even the the ones you want in
the tank.
It would be nice if they actually worked that well, but they don't. Regardless
of whether they are advisable with reef tanks, they aren't good enough to kill
ick. The best you can hope for is to reduce the spread of the disease when the
protozoa reaches the free-swimming stage.

George Patterson
The cost of living hasn't affected its popularity.

Evidently JOhn Smith the dumbass has to buy large quanities of crap
since he is so inept at keeping fish healthy. Gravel ina ****ing
sal****er setup your clueless dude as thatw as what the OP was asking
about you dipshipt from a looney farm.....No go get a clue and take
some of that copper treatment for your own maladies you clueless twit.
OH, your momma says I am the only one that ever satisfied her, and
your wife says my dogs did her so good that she is never going to give
you any more, so your stuck with your fist and wanking for ever.


Take my ****** out of your mouth when you speak, no one can understand you!

ROFLOL!

Regards,
JS

expat wrote:
... Gravel ina ****ing
sal****er setup your clueless dude as thatw as what the OP was asking
about you dipshipt from a looney farm.....

This:


Premium Atlantic Crushed Coral with Aragonite #4
Benefits of Atlantic Crushed Coral:
100% from the Ocean Floor. Natural crushed coral gravel. Maintains
superior pH and marine chemical balance. Provides maximum surface area
for biological nitrification. Scientifically graded for uniformity which
provides maximum water flow and aeration. Prevents anaerobic (Dead
Spots) in Bacteria bed. Completely chemical free. Pre-washed (minimum
rinse required).

Item #: 10401
UPC: 029904104010
Grain size: 2-3.5mm
Packaged: 1 - 40 lb Bag per case
Net Weight: 40 lbs Item #: 10351
UPC: 029904103518
Grain size: 2-3.5mm
Packaged: 2 - 20 lb Bags per case
Net Weight: 40 lbs

From he

http://www.naturesocean.com/marine_substrates.htm

I pity those who follow your advice ... you could at least attempt to
improve your accuracy--when they finally let you out. :-(

Regards,
JS

This method is not practical, it sounds good in theory. The biggest pitfall
with this method is that you have to first catch the fish from the tank, and
catching them is not easy unless you have a bare bottom tank, no coral, no
landscaping.


"expat" wrote in message
...
Putting vcoper in a marine fish tank is bad to do. A quick and simple
dip in RODI water that is preferablly temp and PH matched tothe tanks
water is a very effective way to fix an ICH problem. Use a separate
tank or container to use for the dip of about 1 or 2 minutes. I let em
in for as long as possible or up till the fish starts to stress out. I
also like to keep the tank free of any fish for a couple of weeks as
well after the infected fish are removed in additon to healthy fish as
without a host the ich parasite will die. It pays to have a basic bare
hospital or quarantine tank with fresh or salt water fish.

Odds are you may have problems if you ever decide to have any inverts
with the copper that is in any live rock or silicone seals, but if its
a fish only tank its not a problem other than the usual staining of
the silicone seals. When you dip a marine fish with ICH in freshwater
you can literally see the parasites
"explode and drop off the fish"

On Aug 27, 10:09*pm, "no-spam" wrote:
This method is not practical, it sounds good in theory. The biggest pitfall
with this method is that you have to first catch the fish from the tank, and
catching them is not easy unless you have a bare bottom tank, no coral, no
landscaping.

"expat" wrote in message

...



Putting vcoper in a marine fish tank is bad to do. A quick and simple
dip in RODI water that is preferablly temp and PH matched tothe tanks
water is a very effective way to fix an ICH problem. Use a separate
tank or container to use for the dip of about 1 or 2 minutes. I let em
in for as long as possible or up till the fish starts to stress out. I
also like to keep the tank free of any fish for a couple of weeks as
well after the infected fish are removed in additon to healthy fish as
without a host the ich parasite will die. It pays to have a basic bare
hospital or quarantine tank with fresh or salt water fish.

Odds are you may have problems if you ever decide to have any inverts
with the copper that is in any live rock or silicone seals, but if its
a fish only tank its not a problem other than the usual staining of
the silicone seals. When you dip a marine fish *with ICH in freshwater
you can literally see the parasites
"explode and drop off the fish"- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Whats so hard about catching a fish,. Evidently the fish is smarter
than you are as I have never had any problems catching any fish I had
a need to catch. All it takes is having a higher IQ than the fish so
you can out wit it.......Pretty simple IMHO. Makes it no more
difficult in a bare bottom or a reef tank. There is lots of various
ways to catch them, all without a problem..maybe a bit time consuming
with some, but still 110% doable.

I had some ick in the tank, started treatment and got nowhere. The ick just got worse. Then I heard about the carbon, took it out, re advised and it went abroad about immedietely. Now it is possible that it would accept gone anyway, but after affirmation to the contrary, I now believe that removing the carbon is best.