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NetMax
That sounds like great advice. How small is your "small" aquarium. Does the LFS ever give you lip about the empty bags? Jim NetMax wrote in message .. . "Michi Henning" wrote in message ... -- "NetMax" wrote in message .. . "Jim Morcombe" wrote in message ... Comments invited. Do I have this right? I am "often" forced to have too many fish in a tank for a while. When you add a heap of fish, the ammonia level increases. Most fish are quite tolerant of high levels of amonia, while others drop dead quickly. Once comment: if you keep the pH below 7.2 or so, almost all the ammonia is present as ammonium (the NH4+ ion of ammonia) instead of as "real" ammonia (NH3). Ammonium is much less toxic than ammonia. But, of course, once the ammonium (or ammonia) get converted to nitrite, the fish will die of the nitrite spike... Beware that NO3 is a 'silent' killer. Fish exposed to water shock of greater than 40ppm NO3 will exhibit varying degrees of discomfort, and the smaller the fish, the more likely the shock will be fatal, either directly, or indirectly through Ich or some other disease. Nitrate shock is what kills new arrivals (when the rest of your fish are fine). IME, death occurs on or before the 3rd day. Interesting -- I didn't know that. Might help to explain why I had the odd inexplicable death among new arrivals. (My tank was at zero nitrates for quite a while before I wised up and started dosing nitrates -- I now keep nitrates at around 10-15ppm.) I suspect that 40ppm or more wouldn't be unusual in many fish shops. I think I'll test the water I bring the fish home in next time. Might learn something new that way. Now, here is the real question: say I just bought a bunch of fish and they are swimming in 60ppm nitrate. Now, how do I get those into my 10ppm tank without killing them? I normally acclimatise new arrivals over about an hour, gradually adding small amounts of tank water to the bag and then transfer the fish. But I suspect that an hour is too short to overcome a 50ppm change in nitrates... Cheers, Michi. Good question. A lot depends on the cost of the fish, the size of the fish and the difference in water parameters. The smaller or more expensive, or the greater the difference, the slower you want to acclimate them. Also the conversion from hard water to soft water is harder than the reverse. If I'm buying a $100 fish, I show up with a styrofoam box. Inside the box they put 1 bag of water with the fish, and 3 or 4 bags of only water. The extra water bags helps keep the temperature uniform while travelling, and I use it to fill a small aquarium about 50%. This quarantine aquarium has a small submerged filter, and a small submerged heater (this allows me to have the water level as low as I like, which often happens when I'm using partial LFS water to acclimate. Be sure to water test the LFS water when you get home (from the bag with no fish, as the fish bag will be skewed due to the CO2 and ammonia released). For 2-3 days, I try to do nothing, then over the next few days, I start adding my tank/source water. Your % of tank/source water depends on your tank conditions and where you want to eventually end up. Laborious.. yes, and it needs the patience of a saint, but it is very successful. I hope this gives you some ideas. cheers NetMax |
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