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#1
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Hi Marc;
That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems to me I read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae cells will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will get worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter floss/cotton batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct .... thanks; - dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container with holes in the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to suck out all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely add the water back to your tank. Marc Dave wrote: Hi folks; I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora HOB skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue actinic/10000K), two MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One sailfin tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip anemones (was one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a red-legged hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure MPDI-25) once a week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable phosphates, 1 ppm nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for about two months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water Filter. Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia algae. I suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just comes back. It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of the live rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand. My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd rather not take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I follow to get rid of the derbesia? I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water through a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the algae in the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the algae will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?), making the situation worse. I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes, suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water changes, but am concerned about stressing the fish. Any advice? Thanks in advance. -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com |
#2
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Dave
First you have to find the source of the problem. In most cases the cause is too much nutrient in the water. You are probably like most of us and are overfeeding. Your tank will survive with surprisingly little food. In my case I cut food in half. My tank did not skip a beat. Make sure your skimmer is working optimally. Be very careful what you are adding to the tank. Could it be a source of nutrients? How old are your light bulbs? Old bulbs can accelerate a algae problem. You might look at reducing the time your lights are on. Make sure you have good water movement in your tank without dead spots. When you do water changes use the water that you are removing from the tank to scrub off affected rocks. Use a stiff nylon brush and really scrub the rock clean. If you pull it offf it will just grow back. Use a second bucket to rinse the just scrubbed rock off and then return it to your tank. This will really help to get the upper hand. Dump the buckets. Use R/O water in your top ups and water changes. Be patient. Hair algae can be very persistant. It took me many months to finally get rid of it. Todd Dave wrote: Hi Marc; That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems to me I read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae cells will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will get worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter floss/cotton batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct .... thanks; - dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container with holes in the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to suck out all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely add the water back to your tank. Marc Dave wrote: Hi folks; I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora HOB skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue actinic/10000K), two MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One sailfin tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip anemones (was one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a red-legged hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure MPDI-25) once a week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable phosphates, 1 ppm nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for about two months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water Filter. Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia algae. I suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just comes back. It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of the live rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand. My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd rather not take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I follow to get rid of the derbesia? I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water through a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the algae in the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the algae will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?), making the situation worse. I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes, suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water changes, but am concerned about stressing the fish. Any advice? Thanks in advance. -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com |
#3
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Hi Todd;
Very little of the food I put in the tank even hits the bottom. If you've seen tangs eat, you know what I mean. ;-) In addition, I have undetectable nitrates ... the one ppm I mentioned before is even a stretch (I think I forced myself to see a bit of blue, because I couldn't imagine my nitrates could be zero ;-). Light bulbs are only a few months old. Skimmer is working fine, as far as I can tell. As I mentioned, my rocks are anchored down in my tank with PVC frames and ties, though I suppose I could take them out and scrub them, ay caramba. Dump the buckets? As I already said, I use RO/DI water for all water changes. Thanks; - Dave "TW" wrote in message ... Dave First you have to find the source of the problem. In most cases the cause is too much nutrient in the water. You are probably like most of us and are overfeeding. Your tank will survive with surprisingly little food. In my case I cut food in half. My tank did not skip a beat. Make sure your skimmer is working optimally. Be very careful what you are adding to the tank. Could it be a source of nutrients? How old are your light bulbs? Old bulbs can accelerate a algae problem. You might look at reducing the time your lights are on. Make sure you have good water movement in your tank without dead spots. When you do water changes use the water that you are removing from the tank to scrub off affected rocks. Use a stiff nylon brush and really scrub the rock clean. If you pull it offf it will just grow back. Use a second bucket to rinse the just scrubbed rock off and then return it to your tank. This will really help to get the upper hand. Dump the buckets. Use R/O water in your top ups and water changes. Be patient. Hair algae can be very persistant. It took me many months to finally get rid of it. Todd Dave wrote: Hi Marc; That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems to me I read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae cells will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will get worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter floss/cotton batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct .... thanks; - dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container with holes in the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to suck out all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely add the water back to your tank. Marc Dave wrote: Hi folks; I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora HOB skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue actinic/10000K), two MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One sailfin tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip anemones (was one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a red-legged hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure MPDI-25) once a week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable phosphates, 1 ppm nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for about two months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water Filter. Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia algae. I suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just comes back. It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of the live rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand. My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd rather not take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I follow to get rid of the derbesia? I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water through a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the algae in the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the algae will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?), making the situation worse. I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes, suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water changes, but am concerned about stressing the fish. Any advice? Thanks in advance. -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com |
#4
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If you prefer to just vacuum it out and replace it with freshly made up
sal****er, that is a better alternative, because you are sure to avoid adding any spores into your tank. Hopefully you are using RO/DI? Marc Dave wrote: Hi Marc; That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems to me I read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae cells will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will get worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter floss/cotton batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct .... thanks; - dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container with holes in the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to suck out all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely add the water back to your tank. Marc Dave wrote: Hi folks; I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora HOB skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue actinic/10000K), two MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One sailfin tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip anemones (was one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a red-legged hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure MPDI-25) once a week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable phosphates, 1 ppm nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for about two months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water Filter. Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia algae. I suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just comes back. It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of the live rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand. My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd rather not take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I follow to get rid of the derbesia? I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water through a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the algae in the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the algae will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?), making the situation worse. I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes, suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water changes, but am concerned about stressing the fish. Any advice? Thanks in advance. -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com |
#5
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Hi Marc;
Yes, but as I said before, I'm concerned that increasing the frequency of my water changes will stress the fish. What do you think ... should this be a concern? And as I said before, I'm using RO/DI, from a Spectrapure unit. - thanks again; Dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... If you prefer to just vacuum it out and replace it with freshly made up sal****er, that is a better alternative, because you are sure to avoid adding any spores into your tank. Hopefully you are using RO/DI? Marc Dave wrote: Hi Marc; That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems to me I read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae cells will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will get worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter floss/cotton batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct .... thanks; - dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container with holes in the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to suck out all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely add the water back to your tank. Marc Dave wrote: Hi folks; I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora HOB skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue actinic/10000K), two MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One sailfin tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip anemones (was one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a red-legged hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure MPDI-25) once a week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable phosphates, 1 ppm nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for about two months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water Filter. Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia algae. I suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just comes back. It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of the live rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand. My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd rather not take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I follow to get rid of the derbesia? I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water through a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the algae in the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the algae will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?), making the situation worse. I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes, suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water changes, but am concerned about stressing the fish. Any advice? Thanks in advance. -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com |
#6
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If your salinity and temperature match (or is within 1 degree Fahrenheit),
water changes shouldn't stress the tank's inhabitants too much. How often are you estimating? Marc Dave wrote: Hi Marc; Yes, but as I said before, I'm concerned that increasing the frequency of my water changes will stress the fish. What do you think ... should this be a concern? And as I said before, I'm using RO/DI, from a Spectrapure unit. - thanks again; Dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... If you prefer to just vacuum it out and replace it with freshly made up sal****er, that is a better alternative, because you are sure to avoid adding any spores into your tank. Hopefully you are using RO/DI? Marc Dave wrote: Hi Marc; That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems to me I read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae cells will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will get worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter floss/cotton batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct .... thanks; - dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container with holes in the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to suck out all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely add the water back to your tank. Marc Dave wrote: Hi folks; I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora HOB skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue actinic/10000K), two MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One sailfin tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip anemones (was one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a red-legged hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure MPDI-25) once a week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable phosphates, 1 ppm nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for about two months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water Filter. Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia algae. I suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just comes back. It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of the live rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand. My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd rather not take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I follow to get rid of the derbesia? I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water through a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the algae in the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the algae will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?), making the situation worse. I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes, suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water changes, but am concerned about stressing the fish. Any advice? Thanks in advance. -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com |
#7
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just because your nitrates are 0 doesn't mean that you're not providing
them. the mat is uptaking them, usually from the food you're feeding, and you export it out of the tank by harvesting the algae. the algae uptakes it amazingly quickly, so i'd expect that not much be evident in tests. regards, charlie cave creek, az "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... If your salinity and temperature match (or is within 1 degree Fahrenheit), water changes shouldn't stress the tank's inhabitants too much. How often are you estimating? Marc Dave wrote: Hi Marc; Yes, but as I said before, I'm concerned that increasing the frequency of my water changes will stress the fish. What do you think ... should this be a concern? And as I said before, I'm using RO/DI, from a Spectrapure unit. - thanks again; Dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... If you prefer to just vacuum it out and replace it with freshly made up sal****er, that is a better alternative, because you are sure to avoid adding any spores into your tank. Hopefully you are using RO/DI? Marc Dave wrote: Hi Marc; That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems to me I read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae cells will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will get worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter floss/cotton batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct .... thanks; - dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container with holes in the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to suck out all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely add the water back to your tank. Marc Dave wrote: Hi folks; I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora HOB skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue actinic/10000K), two MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One sailfin tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip anemones (was one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a red-legged hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure MPDI-25) once a week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable phosphates, 1 ppm nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for about two months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water Filter. Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia algae. I suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just comes back. It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of the live rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand. My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd rather not take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I follow to get rid of the derbesia? I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water through a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the algae in the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the algae will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?), making the situation worse. I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes, suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water changes, but am concerned about stressing the fish. Any advice? Thanks in advance. -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com |
#8
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Hi;
I understand your point. I just don't think I'm overfeeding, and nearly all of the food I do feed goes into the fishes' mouths. I'm told that the Remora HOB skimmer is a good one for a 55gal tank. But anyway ... maybe I should try a nitrate remover? "Charlie Spitzer" wrote in message ... just because your nitrates are 0 doesn't mean that you're not providing them. the mat is uptaking them, usually from the food you're feeding, and you export it out of the tank by harvesting the algae. the algae uptakes it amazingly quickly, so i'd expect that not much be evident in tests. regards, charlie cave creek, az "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... If your salinity and temperature match (or is within 1 degree Fahrenheit), water changes shouldn't stress the tank's inhabitants too much. How often are you estimating? Marc Dave wrote: Hi Marc; Yes, but as I said before, I'm concerned that increasing the frequency of my water changes will stress the fish. What do you think ... should this be a concern? And as I said before, I'm using RO/DI, from a Spectrapure unit. - thanks again; Dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... If you prefer to just vacuum it out and replace it with freshly made up sal****er, that is a better alternative, because you are sure to avoid adding any spores into your tank. Hopefully you are using RO/DI? Marc Dave wrote: Hi Marc; That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems to me I read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae cells will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will get worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter floss/cotton batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct ..... thanks; - dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container with holes in the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to suck out all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely add the water back to your tank. Marc Dave wrote: Hi folks; I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora HOB skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue actinic/10000K), two MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One sailfin tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip anemones (was one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a red-legged hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure MPDI-25) once a week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable phosphates, 1 ppm nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for about two months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water Filter. Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia algae. I suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just comes back. It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of the live rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand. My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd rather not take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I follow to get rid of the derbesia? I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water through a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the algae in the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the algae will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?), making the situation worse. I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes, suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water changes, but am concerned about stressing the fish. Any advice? Thanks in advance. -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com |
#9
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I'm considering doing water changes twice a week rather than once, only to
remove more algae before it has a chance to grow back. Think adding an algae-eating blenny would be a good idea? - thanks Dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... If your salinity and temperature match (or is within 1 degree Fahrenheit), water changes shouldn't stress the tank's inhabitants too much. How often are you estimating? Marc Dave wrote: Hi Marc; Yes, but as I said before, I'm concerned that increasing the frequency of my water changes will stress the fish. What do you think ... should this be a concern? And as I said before, I'm using RO/DI, from a Spectrapure unit. - thanks again; Dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... If you prefer to just vacuum it out and replace it with freshly made up sal****er, that is a better alternative, because you are sure to avoid adding any spores into your tank. Hopefully you are using RO/DI? Marc Dave wrote: Hi Marc; That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems to me I read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae cells will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will get worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter floss/cotton batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct .... thanks; - dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container with holes in the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to suck out all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely add the water back to your tank. Marc Dave wrote: Hi folks; I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora HOB skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue actinic/10000K), two MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One sailfin tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip anemones (was one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a red-legged hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure MPDI-25) once a week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable phosphates, 1 ppm nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for about two months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water Filter. Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia algae. I suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just comes back. It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of the live rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand. My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd rather not take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I follow to get rid of the derbesia? I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water through a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the algae in the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the algae will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?), making the situation worse. I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes, suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water changes, but am concerned about stressing the fish. Any advice? Thanks in advance. -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com |
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That is hit or miss, using a Blenny. I tried it and within a week the fish
disappeared. 8( I don't think your nitrates are the issue. Nor phosphates, according to your original post. Just get in there and pluck, pluck, pluck. Rinse your hand in a bowl of water after every pinch. Also, be sure to add some new hungry snails to your tank, putting them where you need them to be. Marc Dave wrote: I'm considering doing water changes twice a week rather than once, only to remove more algae before it has a chance to grow back. Think adding an algae-eating blenny would be a good idea? - thanks Dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... If your salinity and temperature match (or is within 1 degree Fahrenheit), water changes shouldn't stress the tank's inhabitants too much. How often are you estimating? Marc Dave wrote: Hi Marc; Yes, but as I said before, I'm concerned that increasing the frequency of my water changes will stress the fish. What do you think ... should this be a concern? And as I said before, I'm using RO/DI, from a Spectrapure unit. - thanks again; Dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... If you prefer to just vacuum it out and replace it with freshly made up sal****er, that is a better alternative, because you are sure to avoid adding any spores into your tank. Hopefully you are using RO/DI? Marc Dave wrote: Hi Marc; That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems to me I read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae cells will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will get worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter floss/cotton batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct .... thanks; - dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container with holes in the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to suck out all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely add the water back to your tank. Marc Dave wrote: Hi folks; I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora HOB skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue actinic/10000K), two MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One sailfin tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip anemones (was one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a red-legged hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure MPDI-25) once a week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable phosphates, 1 ppm nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for about two months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water Filter. Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia algae. I suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just comes back. It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of the live rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand. My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd rather not take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I follow to get rid of the derbesia? I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water through a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the algae in the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the algae will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?), making the situation worse. I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes, suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water changes, but am concerned about stressing the fish. Any advice? Thanks in advance. -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com |
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