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#1
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I have to agree with Marc about the snails I have just 2 Turbos and had 4
Astraea (until the hermit crabs and shrimp ate them). It took them all of two days to clean house. I have since bought a Lawnmower Blenny. He tends to help out but only really nibbles all day. The snails are the ticket. By the way, mine is only a 30 gallon tank so you'll need to plan accordingly. HTH Ed "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... That is hit or miss, using a Blenny. I tried it and within a week the fish disappeared. 8( I don't think your nitrates are the issue. Nor phosphates, according to your original post. Just get in there and pluck, pluck, pluck. Rinse your hand in a bowl of water after every pinch. Also, be sure to add some new hungry snails to your tank, putting them where you need them to be. Marc Dave wrote: I'm considering doing water changes twice a week rather than once, only to remove more algae before it has a chance to grow back. Think adding an algae-eating blenny would be a good idea? - thanks Dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... If your salinity and temperature match (or is within 1 degree Fahrenheit), water changes shouldn't stress the tank's inhabitants too much. How often are you estimating? Marc Dave wrote: Hi Marc; Yes, but as I said before, I'm concerned that increasing the frequency of my water changes will stress the fish. What do you think ... should this be a concern? And as I said before, I'm using RO/DI, from a Spectrapure unit. - thanks again; Dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... If you prefer to just vacuum it out and replace it with freshly made up sal****er, that is a better alternative, because you are sure to avoid adding any spores into your tank. Hopefully you are using RO/DI? Marc Dave wrote: Hi Marc; That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems to me I read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae cells will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will get worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter floss/cotton batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct ..... thanks; - dave "Marc Levenson" wrote in message ... You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container with holes in the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to suck out all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely add the water back to your tank. Marc Dave wrote: Hi folks; I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora HOB skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue actinic/10000K), two MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One sailfin tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip anemones (was one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a red-legged hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure MPDI-25) once a week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable phosphates, 1 ppm nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for about two months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water Filter. Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia algae. I suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just comes back. It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of the live rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand. My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd rather not take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I follow to get rid of the derbesia? I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water through a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the algae in the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the algae will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?), making the situation worse. I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes, suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water changes, but am concerned about stressing the fish. Any advice? Thanks in advance. -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com |
#2
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I would say you have some kind of nutrient in your tank or else why you have
so much algae battle. Testing for nitrate will not be usefull since your algae are obsorbing it. It should read close to zero or untracible. How are your water circulation? How does your Romora Skimmer skimmate look like? Does it get dark and smelly? I assumed your are using RO/DI water? Adding more snail are one of many tool to battle algae but you are not focusing on the source of the cause(s). CapFusion,... "Dave" wrote in message ... I'm considering doing water changes twice a week rather than once, only to remove more algae before it has a chance to grow back. Think adding an algae-eating blenny would be a good idea? - thanks Dave |
#3
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Dave;
I had to deal with this same problem in my tank for many months before I won the battle. The problem is the source of nutrient that is feeding the algae. If there is no food to feed the algae it will starve. There is no two ways about it. You must find the source of the nutrient and find a way to reduce it. I would suggest that you do bigger water changes less often. 5% seems low to me. As my tank is now more mature, I do less and less water changes and my tank is doing better and better. When I do one, I change 20-25 gal on my 90 gal tank. My system has a sump and a refugium now so the water capacity is somewhere near 120 gallons when I factor in the displacement of the LR. So I am doing around 15-16% at a time. I only do them once every two to three months. I used to do water changes every two weeks. I would also sugesst you beef up the biological filtration of your system. Two inches of sand is not enough. I would add some LS. A DSB will improve things in your tank. I saw immediate improvement in my tank when I added more live sand. I had 2 inches of crushed coral to start with. (that was the suggestion of the LFS at the time but that is a whole story for another post) I did it slowly over a period of time. I understand that it may be difficult for you to scrub your LR. In my tank there were several rocks that were very difficult/impossible to remove from the tank. I did find that removing them and scrubbing them in a bucket of old tank water followed by a rinse in another tank of old tank water worked the best at reducing the amount of algae. By " dump the bucket" I meant after you scrub the rock pour the old water into the toilet and get rid of it. When you rip the algae out in your tank you will allow some algae to float free in your tank and it will just land somewhere else and start growing. As I said before it can be a real bitch to get rid of. I almost gave up the hobby a few times in frustration. I also battled cyno and dinoflagellates at different times. Both were difficult but neithor had the staying power of hair algae. Good Luck Todd |
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