Pressurized CO2 tank problem

On Wed, 13 Aug 2003 03:16:46 -0500, "Racf"
wrote:


A couple of thoughts:

1. Single stage regulators are cheap...and not as accurate as a 2
stage....You paid 2 stage money....The one stage would show an accurate
reading if you let the output bleed quickly while setting the gauge..

99% of planted aquarists who use compressed-CO2 setups are using
single stage regulators. They do the job perfectly fine. And while
$65.00 is a little high for a cheap reg, it's way below the cost of a
dual-stage regulator. And the dual stage regs are overkill for our
purposes.

3. I hate trade-ins for things like this....It may be OK for a cutting
rig that has all valves shutoff most of the time....but who wants a
leaky old bottle

You are not going to get a "leaky" bottle. And for cutting, if the
valves were shut-off, you'd still have the leak, if it was the bottle.

The only downside to trade-in tanks are the physical appearance.


Chuck Gadd
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua

"Chuck Gadd" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 13 Aug 2003 03:16:46 -0500, "Racf"
wrote:


A couple of thoughts:

1. Single stage regulators are cheap...and not as accurate as a 2
stage....You paid 2 stage money....The one stage would show an
accurate
reading if you let the output bleed quickly while setting the gauge..

99% of planted aquarists who use compressed-CO2 setups are using
single stage regulators. They do the job perfectly fine. And while
$65.00 is a little high for a cheap reg, it's way below the cost of a
dual-stage regulator. And the dual stage regs are overkill for our
purposes.

Yes, he paid too much for a single stage regulator... Way below?


3. I hate trade-ins for things like this....It may be OK for a
cutting
rig that has all valves shutoff most of the time....but who wants a
leaky old bottle

You are not going to get a "leaky" bottle. And for cutting, if the
valves were shut-off, you'd still have the leak, if it was the bottle.

The only downside to trade-in tanks are the physical appearance.

Chuck, the valve stems can leak just like an old faucet when turned
on.....and they do all the time....Its just a natural thing....
I am just saying look out, you definately do want one that leaks as
little as possible around the valve stem....since it will always be
turned on....



Chuck Gadd
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua

Chuck, the valve stems can leak just like an old faucet when turned
on.....and they do all the time....Its just a natural thing....
I am just saying look out, you definately do want one that leaks as
little as possible around the valve stem....since it will always be
turned on....

I've probably been thru 20 or so "trade-in" tanks, between my tanks,
and tanks I'd set up for friends. I have had some nasty looking CO2
tanks, but not one of them has had a leak around the valve stem, if
the valve was opened all the way.


Chuck Gadd
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua

"Chuck Gadd" wrote in message
...
Chuck, the valve stems can leak just like an old faucet when turned
on.....and they do all the time....Its just a natural thing....
I am just saying look out, you definately do want one that leaks as
little as possible around the valve stem....since it will always be
turned on....
I've probably been thru 20 or so "trade-in" tanks, between my tanks,
and tanks I'd set up for friends. I have had some nasty looking CO2
tanks, but not one of them has had a leak around the valve stem, if
the valve was opened all the way.

Chuck this is a very good point.
Long ago in my welding class we were taught that gas cylinders have a double
seat valve. The first seat is what closes the gas in when it is tightened
all the way down. The second seat is when the valve is opened fully and
seals the valve stem. _Always_ open the valve fully against the second seat
leakage around the stem will occur.
Jeff

Hi all,

Thanks for all the feedbacks. They are very informative. After, my
tank was empty, I went to a second shop and trade in my other tank. I
screwed in every threads very tight this time with teflon tapes. I
hope that it will last me at least a month this time.

Any how, my current problem is with the reactor. As stated in my first
posting, I am using the modified gravel-vac reactor with the powerhead
to pump the water into the gravel-vac. What I find trouble some is
that I tuned my flowmeter in such a way that it will output a 10-15
fine bubble per seconds. However with this setting, the bubbles
eventually doesn't come out. Hence, it is very hard for me to control
the CO2 concentration. I have to occasionally come and increase the
bubble rate a few times every day.

Yesterday, I turned bubbles rate a bit higher, thinking that the
bubble rate will slow down by the night time.
Any how, a stragic event had occured in my tank during the night. The
pH I tested this morning was 6.0 or below; and I believe that it had
shoot up my CO2 concentration to at least above 24ppm. I have to sadly
reported that all of my buddies, 8 cichlids, 6 octos, and 1 plecos
have passed away over the course of the night. As for fishes, I will
wait and make sure that this won't happens again before I acquire
anymore.

As for my diy reactor, I do not have any bio balls just a sponges
covering the open end of the gravel-vac. As I am typing this my bubble
coming out of my wooden airstone has again disappear. I wonder whether
this is cause by the water pressure coming into the gravel-vac or
whether the CO2 is actually dissolve so efficent that I am not suppose
to see any.


Any comments on this would be great.

Thanks,

Joe

On 14 Aug 2003 12:26:07 -0700, (Joey) wrote:

Thanks for all the feedbacks. They are very informative. After, my
tank was empty, I went to a second shop and trade in my other tank. I
screwed in every threads very tight this time with teflon tapes. I
hope that it will last me at least a month this time.

Don't just hope. Add a few drops of dish soap to a cup of water, mix
it up, and brush the mixture onto all the fittings. No sense wasting
a whole tank of CO2 just hoping.

Any how, my current problem is with the reactor. As stated in my first
posting, I am using the modified gravel-vac reactor with the powerhead
to pump the water into the gravel-vac. What I find trouble some is
that I tuned my flowmeter in such a way that it will output a 10-15
fine bubble per seconds. However with this setting, the bubbles
eventually doesn't come out. Hence, it is very hard for me to control
the CO2 concentration. I have to occasionally come and increase the
bubble rate a few times every day.

I've got no idea about your flow meter, but from your original
message, if the co2 flow stops when you start the powerhead, then I'm
guessing that there is a leak, and once there is any pressure in the
gravel val, it's easier for the CO2 to find it's way out of the leak.

As for my diy reactor, I do not have any bio balls just a sponges
covering the open end of the gravel-vac. As I am typing this my bubble
coming out of my wooden airstone has again disappear. I wonder whether
this is cause by the water pressure coming into the gravel-vac or
whether the CO2 is actually dissolve so efficent that I am not suppose
to see any.

Try removing the airstone. Then you will be able to more accurately
see and count the bubbles. The larger bubbles coming out of the tube
should still dissolve properly in the reactor.


Chuck Gadd
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua