How many bubbles per minute?

What is the PH of your tap water
(after you let it sit several hours?) Compare that PH reading to your
tank
PH and you should see a difference.

DJay



I use RO/DI water and the pH of that is pretty low. The test kit reads 6.0
but I have a hard time beleiving it.
I guess all I can really go on is KH which that test kit is at work. I'll
have to get another one...

~Mort

"Mort" wrote in message
. com...
What is the PH of your tap water
(after you let it sit several hours?) Compare that PH reading to your
tank
PH and you should see a difference.

DJay



I use RO/DI water and the pH of that is pretty low. The test kit reads
6.0
but I have a hard time beleiving it.
I guess all I can really go on is KH which that test kit is at work. I'll
have to get another one...

~Mort




Mort,

Your tank PH *should* be lower than your RO reading if your CO2 injection is
working properly... UNLESS you have something in the tank that is raising
your KH.

DJay

"Djay" wrote in message
...

"Mort" wrote in message
. com...
What is the PH of your tap water
(after you let it sit several hours?) Compare that PH reading to your
tank
PH and you should see a difference.

DJay



I use RO/DI water and the pH of that is pretty low. The test kit reads
6.0
but I have a hard time beleiving it.
I guess all I can really go on is KH which that test kit is at work.
I'll
have to get another one...

~Mort




Mort,

Your tank PH *should* be lower than your RO reading if your CO2 injection
is
working properly... UNLESS you have something in the tank that is raising
your KH.

DJay




I just finished testing the water.

KH is at 0 (is that good) pH is lower than 6.0 (so it would seem) as the
sample turned a dark yellow. I decided to test my GH while I was at it and
that turned out to be 3-4.

I havent had time to check out Chucks chart but I will do that ASAP.

~Mort

"Mort" wrote in message
om...

"Djay" wrote in message
...

"Mort" wrote in message
. com...
What is the PH of your tap water
(after you let it sit several hours?) Compare that PH reading to
your
tank
PH and you should see a difference.

DJay



I use RO/DI water and the pH of that is pretty low. The test kit
reads
6.0
but I have a hard time beleiving it.
I guess all I can really go on is KH which that test kit is at work.
I'll
have to get another one...

~Mort




Mort,

Your tank PH *should* be lower than your RO reading if your CO2
injection
is
working properly... UNLESS you have something in the tank that is
raising
your KH.

DJay




I just finished testing the water.

KH is at 0 (is that good) pH is lower than 6.0 (so it would seem) as the
sample turned a dark yellow. I decided to test my GH while I was at it
and
that turned out to be 3-4.

I havent had time to check out Chucks chart but I will do that ASAP.

~Mort




I decided to stay up past my bed time and check it out. There was some
discus buffer and Neutral regulator added before I did the CO2 so I can not
tell at this point what my CO2 level is. I need to start changing some
water... =)

~Mort

I just finished testing the water.

KH is at 0 (is that good) pH is lower than 6.0 (so it would seem) as the
sample turned a dark yellow. I decided to test my GH while I was at it
and
that turned out to be 3-4.

I havent had time to check out Chucks chart but I will do that ASAP.

~Mort


According to Chuck's page, CO2 is calculated like this:

CO2 (in PPM) = 3 * KH * 10^(pH-7)

if your KH is really 0, then you have no buffering capacity
and your CO2 will be very low (I doubt it's actually 0).
Anyway, you may want to increase your buffering capacity.

-coelacanth

"coelacanth" wrote in message
. com...

I just finished testing the water.

KH is at 0 (is that good) pH is lower than 6.0 (so it would seem) as the
sample turned a dark yellow. I decided to test my GH while I was at it
and
that turned out to be 3-4.

I havent had time to check out Chucks chart but I will do that ASAP.

~Mort


According to Chuck's page, CO2 is calculated like this:

CO2 (in PPM) = 3 * KH * 10^(pH-7)

if your KH is really 0, then you have no buffering capacity
and your CO2 will be very low (I doubt it's actually 0).
Anyway, you may want to increase your buffering capacity.

-coelacanth

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are running without a buffer, and a low
CO2, you run the risk of having a pH crash do you not??? meaning, without
the buffer, the pH will drop even lower when the lights are off, and
photosynthesis takes place, (that is if the testing was done with lights on,
while pH was at it's highest) otherwise at night, the pH will drop after
photosynthesis takes place...

My only experience in a pH crash was after I did a 40-50% water change after
a new planting when water was dirty.... After adding the water, I forgot to
add buffer(salts) and when it was all said and done, the tank had crashed
and I lost 5 fish that morning.... after looking at it, I realized I hadn't
buffered it to help pull the pH back up after the waterchange, and add CO2
to it, after lights off, pH dropped so fast, they didn't have a chance....
made me very sad....

Please correct me if I'm wrong or just misguided....

"RedForeman ©®" wrote in message
...

"coelacanth" wrote in message
. com...

I just finished testing the water.

KH is at 0 (is that good) pH is lower than 6.0 (so it would seem) as
the
sample turned a dark yellow. I decided to test my GH while I was at
it
and
that turned out to be 3-4.

I havent had time to check out Chucks chart but I will do that ASAP.

~Mort


According to Chuck's page, CO2 is calculated like this:

CO2 (in PPM) = 3 * KH * 10^(pH-7)

if your KH is really 0, then you have no buffering capacity
and your CO2 will be very low (I doubt it's actually 0).
Anyway, you may want to increase your buffering capacity.

-coelacanth

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are running without a buffer, and a
low
CO2, you run the risk of having a pH crash do you not??? meaning, without
the buffer, the pH will drop even lower when the lights are off, and
photosynthesis takes place, (that is if the testing was done with lights
on,
while pH was at it's highest) otherwise at night, the pH will drop after
photosynthesis takes place...

My only experience in a pH crash was after I did a 40-50% water change
after
a new planting when water was dirty.... After adding the water, I forgot
to
add buffer(salts) and when it was all said and done, the tank had crashed
and I lost 5 fish that morning.... after looking at it, I realized I
hadn't
buffered it to help pull the pH back up after the waterchange, and add CO2
to it, after lights off, pH dropped so fast, they didn't have a chance....
made me very sad....

Please correct me if I'm wrong or just misguided....




I dont know man! I am used to Cichlids and sal****er. This stuff is all
new to me.

All I can tell you is that in the past, I have not been able to keep neons
or cardinals alive. I have 5 cards and one neon in there and they are doing
fine.

I am however, overdue for a water change. I will get to it this weekend for
sure.

Is buffering the RO/DI water enough or do I need to do something else to it?

TIA

~Mort

Stop using RO for your plant tank. Your normal tap water will contain trace
elements that your plants could use. Just aerate it for a few hours b4 use
to rid the chlorine gasses.
--
**So long, and thanks for all the fish!**



"Mort" wrote in message
news

"RedForeman ©®" wrote in message
...

"coelacanth" wrote in message
. com...

I just finished testing the water.

KH is at 0 (is that good) pH is lower than 6.0 (so it would seem) as
the
sample turned a dark yellow. I decided to test my GH while I was at
it
and
that turned out to be 3-4.

I havent had time to check out Chucks chart but I will do that ASAP.

~Mort


According to Chuck's page, CO2 is calculated like this:

CO2 (in PPM) = 3 * KH * 10^(pH-7)

if your KH is really 0, then you have no buffering capacity
and your CO2 will be very low (I doubt it's actually 0).
Anyway, you may want to increase your buffering capacity.

-coelacanth

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are running without a buffer, and a
low
CO2, you run the risk of having a pH crash do you not??? meaning,
without
the buffer, the pH will drop even lower when the lights are off, and
photosynthesis takes place, (that is if the testing was done with lights
on,
while pH was at it's highest) otherwise at night, the pH will drop after
photosynthesis takes place...

My only experience in a pH crash was after I did a 40-50% water change
after
a new planting when water was dirty.... After adding the water, I forgot
to
add buffer(salts) and when it was all said and done, the tank had
crashed
and I lost 5 fish that morning.... after looking at it, I realized I
hadn't
buffered it to help pull the pH back up after the waterchange, and add
CO2
to it, after lights off, pH dropped so fast, they didn't have a
chance....
made me very sad....

Please correct me if I'm wrong or just misguided....




I dont know man! I am used to Cichlids and sal****er. This stuff is all
new to me.

All I can tell you is that in the past, I have not been able to keep neons
or cardinals alive. I have 5 cards and one neon in there and they are
doing
fine.

I am however, overdue for a water change. I will get to it this weekend
for
sure.

Is buffering the RO/DI water enough or do I need to do something else to
it?

TIA

~Mort