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Working with Acrylics - routing



 
 
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  #11  
Old July 13th 03, 10:38 PM
Marc Levenson
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Default Working with Acrylics - routing



Acrylics wrote:

use Intertape #591, it's like doublestick masking tape but only $2 n
change a roll.


I'll look for it.

In Acrylite, the blue film is the "FF" (extruded), the whitish film is "GP"
(cast). The #3 is just fine for FF, probably a little fast for GP.


Hmm. So I want extruded, right? I know you've told me before, but I forgot again
which is preferred. I need to keep a journal of all these facts!

Nope, 2 pcs both cut at 90. One glued to the other so that you get an ell "L"
shape - make them as long as you wish. Put one face on the bottom and clamp to
the vertical piece. You will have to ease the corner so that solvent doesn't
flow under.


"ease" the corner? As in route the edge with a round-over bit so no wood is
actually in the seam?

Yeah, Cyro's after me as well. They're the ones that approached me with this
funky idea about a year ago.

BTW, I have started writing the Web site, so not too far off

James


Post the link already! I'm happy to learn more.

Marc

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com


  #12  
Old July 13th 03, 10:55 PM
Acrylics
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Default Working with Acrylics - routing

So I want extruded, right? I know you've told me before, but I forgot again
which is preferred. I need to keep a journal of all these facts!


Kinduva toss up for most hobbyists in some respects.
Cast is the preferred material for stress, aesthetics and bowing.
However,
Extruded is "easier" to work with for most hobbyists as it is more forgiving
insofar as edge preparation is concerned. Basically, because the stuff will
turn to mush easier - it's easier to get better looking glue joints. It is far
more consistent where thickness is concerned, and is cheaper. But it does have
a much higher propensity to craze and melts faster when cutting.

"ease" the corner? As in route the edge with a round-over bit so no wood is
actually in the seam?


yep, or simply tilt your saw blade and run it through the saw to remove this.

Post the link already! I'm happy to learn more.


still on paper, I bought the domain, have the host, just need to finish writing
the text and putting the corresponding pics with it. Now that I've actually
paid for - I'm much more apt to actually get it done
Working on it on a "sorta" daily basis ;-)

James
  #13  
Old July 14th 03, 01:17 PM
Kevin M
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Default Working with Acrylics - routing

"Marc Levenson" wrote in message
...
| I just bought the exact same setup. Did you notice that you have to buy
the
| Ryobi router to fit their table saw? GRRRR.
|
| Marc

The one I got doesn't have a router attachment point. It *does* have a very
nice, 27" fence, though.

Kev


 




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