High Ph

Sure we can compromise, Hal... whatever works for you

Nedra
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836
http://community.webshots.com/user/nedra118

"Hal" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 02 Apr 2004 04:20:13 GMT, "Nedra"
wrote:

Hal,
KH is less complicated and easy to fix as you state -
with baking soda. pH will level out at 8.4 with baking soda...
in fact, I've been told it is difficult to overdose the baking soda.
One thing in its use .... add about half a lb. mixed in pond
water every other day.

Depending on the size of the pond. Can we compromise with Suggested
dose 1/3 pound per 1000 gallons? That will raise KH by 20 ppm. or
about 1 degree. You can continue that as many days as necessary to
get the pH stable.

Regards,

Hal

Okay oh helpers of the pond knowledge infirmed. I bought some strips
today and got a few more guesses at some new numbers. My afternoon ph
was once again good - 7.8/8.0. My Alkalinity reading was between 120
and 200 ppm (hard to discern those shades of green). My hardness, as
expected is hard I would say about 250 ppm. Ammonia, Nitrates,
Nitrites all 0. My morning was once again off the scale at bright
violet. My only logical conclusion is stating to be that I am off the
scale acidic (which seems worse) and not alkaline. I dont know my
color progressions. My scale starts at 7.4 which is kinda harvest
gold, moves higher ph to rust brown, dark brown, light magenta, darker
magenta. I am using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Sal****er test kit.
I was told this would measure fine. Sal****er test on fresh will
work, but not the other way around. Their freshwater only went up to
about 7.4. The new strips I got would tend to confirm that since they
do measure Nitrate, Nitrite and ph as the same. Any suggestions? - I
am so afraid I am hurting my little fishez, but I am also afraid of
trying to adjust when its not called for. My first bloom I panicked
and was ready to drain the pond, scrub the bottom and start over. 15
days later (with experienced assurances, with a little algae fix
followed by couple of bags of cornmeal my water is clear - yippie .
Thanxx
Bill Brister - Austin, Texas

Okay oh helpers of the pond knowledge infirmed. I bought some strips
today and got a few more guesses at some new numbers. My afternoon ph
was once again good - 7.8/8.0. My Alkalinity reading was between 120
and 200 ppm (hard to discern those shades of green). My hardness, as
expected is hard I would say about 250 ppm. Ammonia, Nitrates,
Nitrites all 0. My morning was once again off the scale at bright
violet. My only logical conclusion is stating to be that I am off the
scale acidic (which seems worse) and not alkaline. I dont know my
color progressions. My scale starts at 7.4 which is kinda harvest
gold, moves higher ph to rust brown, dark brown, light magenta, darker
magenta. I am using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Sal****er test kit.
I was told this would measure fine. Sal****er test on fresh will
work, but not the other way around. Their freshwater only went up to
about 7.4. The new strips I got would tend to confirm that since they
do measure Nitrate, Nitrite and ph as the same. Any suggestions? - I
am so afraid I am hurting my little fishez, but I am also afraid of
trying to adjust when its not called for. My first bloom I panicked
and was ready to drain the pond, scrub the bottom and start over. 15
days later (with experienced assurances, with a little algae fix
followed by couple of bags of cornmeal my water is clear - yippie .
Thanxx
Bill Brister - Austin, Texas

If the pH is high or low, it will become more stable and nearer 8.4 by the
addition of baking soda. When the pH is near 8.0 in the afternoon, add the
baking soda. I monitor the KH with the drop type test and if it gets down
close to 100, I add about 2 pounds per 1000 gallons. The pH is always
stable as long as I keep the KH up. For my ponds with bead filters, I add
about 2/3 of a 10 pound box to the large pond and the other 1/3 to the
smaller pond, about once every 10 days to 3 weeks, based on testing.
--
RichToyBox
http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html


"NewbieBill" wrote in message
m...
Okay oh helpers of the pond knowledge infirmed. I bought some strips
today and got a few more guesses at some new numbers. My afternoon ph
was once again good - 7.8/8.0. My Alkalinity reading was between 120
and 200 ppm (hard to discern those shades of green). My hardness, as
expected is hard I would say about 250 ppm. Ammonia, Nitrates,
Nitrites all 0. My morning was once again off the scale at bright
violet. My only logical conclusion is stating to be that I am off the
scale acidic (which seems worse) and not alkaline. I dont know my
color progressions. My scale starts at 7.4 which is kinda harvest
gold, moves higher ph to rust brown, dark brown, light magenta, darker
magenta. I am using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Sal****er test kit.
I was told this would measure fine. Sal****er test on fresh will
work, but not the other way around. Their freshwater only went up to
about 7.4. The new strips I got would tend to confirm that since they
do measure Nitrate, Nitrite and ph as the same. Any suggestions? - I
am so afraid I am hurting my little fishez, but I am also afraid of
trying to adjust when its not called for. My first bloom I panicked
and was ready to drain the pond, scrub the bottom and start over. 15
days later (with experienced assurances, with a little algae fix
followed by couple of bags of cornmeal my water is clear - yippie .
Thanxx
Bill Brister - Austin, Texas

If the pH is high or low, it will become more stable and nearer 8.4 by the
addition of baking soda. When the pH is near 8.0 in the afternoon, add the
baking soda. I monitor the KH with the drop type test and if it gets down
close to 100, I add about 2 pounds per 1000 gallons. The pH is always
stable as long as I keep the KH up. For my ponds with bead filters, I add
about 2/3 of a 10 pound box to the large pond and the other 1/3 to the
smaller pond, about once every 10 days to 3 weeks, based on testing.
--
RichToyBox
http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html


"NewbieBill" wrote in message
m...
Okay oh helpers of the pond knowledge infirmed. I bought some strips
today and got a few more guesses at some new numbers. My afternoon ph
was once again good - 7.8/8.0. My Alkalinity reading was between 120
and 200 ppm (hard to discern those shades of green). My hardness, as
expected is hard I would say about 250 ppm. Ammonia, Nitrates,
Nitrites all 0. My morning was once again off the scale at bright
violet. My only logical conclusion is stating to be that I am off the
scale acidic (which seems worse) and not alkaline. I dont know my
color progressions. My scale starts at 7.4 which is kinda harvest
gold, moves higher ph to rust brown, dark brown, light magenta, darker
magenta. I am using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Sal****er test kit.
I was told this would measure fine. Sal****er test on fresh will
work, but not the other way around. Their freshwater only went up to
about 7.4. The new strips I got would tend to confirm that since they
do measure Nitrate, Nitrite and ph as the same. Any suggestions? - I
am so afraid I am hurting my little fishez, but I am also afraid of
trying to adjust when its not called for. My first bloom I panicked
and was ready to drain the pond, scrub the bottom and start over. 15
days later (with experienced assurances, with a little algae fix
followed by couple of bags of cornmeal my water is clear - yippie .
Thanxx
Bill Brister - Austin, Texas

True, with critters one has to take a different tactic. It's just so much
easier to acidize it (without critters) as it tends to age the leaching
components and balance quicker. Otherwise you're having to monitor and
measure and mess with it for possibly weeks. At least that was my
experience last year. I'd just as soon correct it right off and balance it
right away. ~ jan (Do you know where your water quality is?)

You can do this with critters:
pH Down - -
Muriatic acid (31% HCl) a dose of approximately 2 fluid ounces per
1000 gallons per day until the pH is about 8.5. I would not lower the
pH below 8.5 without also testing KH (alkalinity). Acid directly
consumes KH. If KH is lowered below ~100 mg/l, pH will become
unstable, and the pH measurements become meaningless.
Regards,Hal


On Fri, 02 Apr 2004 15:34:21 GMT, ~ jan JJsPond.us wrote:

So far I've had to adjust my pH/KH every spring in my lilypond. I do this
after clean out before the frogs start spawning and I've removed all fish.
I think my post starts with Algae a few days back, regarding this.

Anyway, I agree, it is a balancing thing. Treat what's causing the rise by
adding muriatic acid, about 1 cup/1,000 gallons and let it sit for a few
days, if the pH comes back up add another cup, if not, add Baking soda to
bring the pH back up and put the buffer back in. (Remove any critters
before doing this.) Then monitor thereafter. ~ jan

True, with critters one has to take a different tactic. It's just so much
easier to acidize it (without critters) as it tends to age the leaching
components and balance quicker. Otherwise you're having to monitor and
measure and mess with it for possibly weeks. At least that was my
experience last year. I'd just as soon correct it right off and balance it
right away. ~ jan (Do you know where your water quality is?)

You can do this with critters:
pH Down - -
Muriatic acid (31% HCl) a dose of approximately 2 fluid ounces per
1000 gallons per day until the pH is about 8.5. I would not lower the
pH below 8.5 without also testing KH (alkalinity). Acid directly
consumes KH. If KH is lowered below ~100 mg/l, pH will become
unstable, and the pH measurements become meaningless.
Regards,Hal


On Fri, 02 Apr 2004 15:34:21 GMT, ~ jan JJsPond.us wrote:

So far I've had to adjust my pH/KH every spring in my lilypond. I do this
after clean out before the frogs start spawning and I've removed all fish.
I think my post starts with Algae a few days back, regarding this.

Anyway, I agree, it is a balancing thing. Treat what's causing the rise by
adding muriatic acid, about 1 cup/1,000 gallons and let it sit for a few
days, if the pH comes back up add another cup, if not, add Baking soda to
bring the pH back up and put the buffer back in. (Remove any critters
before doing this.) Then monitor thereafter. ~ jan