Water preperation

On 04 Jan 2005 09:44:33 EST, am (Gary V.
Deutschmann, Sr.) wrote:

Hi Tre

NO!

DI resins are an adsorbent of sorts not absorbent, they exchange ion
molecules. Like an electro magnet picks up iron filings and when you
kill the juice, the iron filings fall off.

Most DI columns consist of both positive and negative ion exchange
resins. In some columns these resins are mixed together, which can
cause them to self deplete to a certain extent.

The idea behind mixing the resins in a single cylinder is to help
prevent folks from recharging, because both types of resins are
charged differently.

But fortunately, the two resins have different specific gravities.
AND the base recharge chemical when mixed properly is at just the
right specific gravity that it separates the negative resin and
recharges it, while it allows the positive resin to float to the top
for easy removal and recharging to it's positive state.

After you have separated the resins, you really don't want to mix them
back up again. If you are using a AP-TWP Cylinder, ideally you would
want to have three of them on hand. One for the carbon section, one
for the anion resin and one for the cation resin.

Once the resins are separated into their own cylinders, subsequent
rechargings are a snap and only require filling them with the
solution, letting them sit, then draining and rinsing and they are as
good as new.

The only part of the resins that fail over time is the color change
indicator dye. So we suggest setting aside a few tablespoons of this
resin to use in a small clear pillbottle to test the output, until you
know how many gallons you can get between each recharge. Then you can
go by gallonage rather than watching a color change indicator.

The directions for separating the resins and recharging the AP-TWP or
any other cylinder is on my webpage. At the end of the instructions
is a link to the two formulas and how to mix them.
Recharging uses two normally readily available products.
Lewis Red Devil 100% PURE Lye from your grocery store drain cleaning
aisle.
And Muriatic Acid from your local hardware store, usually in the
masonry aisle.

http://archimedes.galilei.com/raiar
Then look for the DI-TWP recharge instructions.

I recharged a set of six DI-TWP cylinders over well over 500 times
with no decrease in performance. Actually, they worked much better
after the resins were separated so they wouldn't neutralize
themselves.
Output from the recharged cylinders was consistantly between .05 and
06 MicroSiemens.

TTUL
Gary




Thank you.

Great! Thanks!

"Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr." wrote in message
...
Hi Tre

NO!

DI resins are an adsorbent of sorts not absorbent, they exchange ion
molecules. Like an electro magnet picks up iron filings and when you
kill the juice, the iron filings fall off.

Most DI columns consist of both positive and negative ion exchange
resins. In some columns these resins are mixed together, which can
cause them to self deplete to a certain extent.

The idea behind mixing the resins in a single cylinder is to help
prevent folks from recharging, because both types of resins are
charged differently.

But fortunately, the two resins have different specific gravities.
AND the base recharge chemical when mixed properly is at just the
right specific gravity that it separates the negative resin and
recharges it, while it allows the positive resin to float to the top
for easy removal and recharging to it's positive state.

After you have separated the resins, you really don't want to mix them
back up again. If you are using a AP-TWP Cylinder, ideally you would
want to have three of them on hand. One for the carbon section, one
for the anion resin and one for the cation resin.

Once the resins are separated into their own cylinders, subsequent
rechargings are a snap and only require filling them with the
solution, letting them sit, then draining and rinsing and they are as
good as new.

The only part of the resins that fail over time is the color change
indicator dye. So we suggest setting aside a few tablespoons of this
resin to use in a small clear pillbottle to test the output, until you
know how many gallons you can get between each recharge. Then you can
go by gallonage rather than watching a color change indicator.

The directions for separating the resins and recharging the AP-TWP or
any other cylinder is on my webpage. At the end of the instructions
is a link to the two formulas and how to mix them.
Recharging uses two normally readily available products.
Lewis Red Devil 100% PURE Lye from your grocery store drain cleaning
aisle.
And Muriatic Acid from your local hardware store, usually in the
masonry aisle.

http://archimedes.galilei.com/raiar
Then look for the DI-TWP recharge instructions.

I recharged a set of six DI-TWP cylinders over well over 500 times
with no decrease in performance. Actually, they worked much better
after the resins were separated so they wouldn't neutralize
themselves.
Output from the recharged cylinders was consistantly between .05 and
06 MicroSiemens.

TTUL
Gary

On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 13:35:33 -0600, RicSeyler
wrote:

Maybe the high heat thing I was thinking about was recharging carbon.


I'd like to do that! I have gloves.

Anyone know how???

"kryppy" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 13:35:33 -0600, RicSeyler
wrote:

Maybe the high heat thing I was thinking about was recharging carbon.


I'd like to do that! I have gloves.

Anyone know how???

do you have an oven that can do a couple of thousand degrees?

Hi Ric

If you buy MUWAC, it can be recharged just by laying it in the sun to
dry out.

MUWAC is REAL WOOD, but fired to near ceramic consistency.
Comes in Logs, Chunks, Granuals and Fine.

Trouble is, I have no idea who carries it now, unless Monolith Marine
Monsters can still get it.

TTUL
Gary

On Thu, 6 Jan 2005 16:47:04 -0700, "Charles Spitzer"
wrote:


"kryppy" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 13:35:33 -0600, RicSeyler
wrote:

Maybe the high heat thing I was thinking about was recharging carbon.


I'd like to do that! I have gloves.

Anyone know how???

do you have an oven that can do a couple of thousand degrees?



No, but I have large tanks of oxygen and acetylene that can burn that
hot.

On Fri, 07 Jan 2005 14:27:53 -0600, RicSeyler
wrote:

LOL
I'll stick with just to going out and buy a new bag of carbon for a few
bucks.


Haha, I guess I will as well.
I was really wanting to add a giant carbon filter to my well water.
Seems like an expensive deal to change it every six months though.