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#1
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![]() Have googled for aquarium cycling and there seems to be 301,000 different opinions on how to do it. A straw poll, how many believe in the chemical approach and how many in hardy fish and does anyone have a method involving black cats and ouija boards ![]() As I understand it "cycling" is too get the level of good bacteria up so they can "eat" fish waste and convert it into nitrites then convert these nitrites to nitrates. -- yours S Nihil curo de ista tua stulta superstitione |
#2
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On Thu, 20 Jan 2005 09:58:09 GMT, "soup"
wrote: Have googled for aquarium cycling and there seems to be 301,000 different opinions on how to do it. A straw poll, how many believe in the chemical approach and how many in hardy fish and does anyone have a method involving black cats and ouija boards ![]() As I understand it "cycling" is too get the level of good bacteria up so they can "eat" fish waste and convert it into nitrites then convert these nitrites to nitrates. I am the voice of "don't add chemicals if possible." I have 5 tanks ranging from 10 to 75 gallons. I always start with 3 to 5 fish. I also add plants because I have a ready surplus in my existing tanks. The "cloudy" phase lasts for weeks. I always feel great relief when the water clears. I do change water 20% twice weekly, but I do not treat the new water except to bring the new water close to the tank temperature. Not only do I not trust the chemicals, I distrust me to administer them properly. I killed several fish and burned several more adjusting the pH. That was almost 2 years ago, I never figured what I did wrong, but it made my mind up, I am more dangerous than my tap water is. dick |
#3
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"Dick" wrote in message
... On Thu, 20 Jan 2005 09:58:09 GMT, "soup" wrote: Have googled for aquarium cycling and there seems to be 301,000 different opinions on how to do it. A straw poll, how many believe in the chemical approach and how many in hardy fish and does anyone have a method involving black cats and ouija boards ![]() As I understand it "cycling" is too get the level of good bacteria up so they can "eat" fish waste and convert it into nitrites then convert these nitrites to nitrates. I am the voice of "don't add chemicals if possible." I have 5 tanks ranging from 10 to 75 gallons. I always start with 3 to 5 fish. I also add plants because I have a ready surplus in my existing tanks. The "cloudy" phase lasts for weeks. I always feel great relief when the water clears. I do change water 20% twice weekly, but I do not treat the new water except to bring the new water close to the tank temperature. Not only do I not trust the chemicals, I distrust me to administer them properly. I killed several fish and burned several more adjusting the pH. That was almost 2 years ago, I never figured what I did wrong, but it made my mind up, I am more dangerous than my tap water is. Here here Dick, I've gone from 20 gal to 75 to 160 over the years and never used chemicals. And the only time I ever really lost alot of fish was the freak summer we had over here two years ago, and when the valve on my CO2 injection went mad and crashed my pH. When I did my 75 gal from scratch, 8 hardies in, 10 % water changes every couple of days and that was it for about three weeks and then added the fish slowly. I don't know how you can go wrong with it, but someone will have had bad experience doing a 'live' cycle. I personally think and from what I've read you are more likely to screw up, and never get the nitrogen cycle to stabilise using chemicals over fish. for the original poster, spot on with what happens, I don't know if you have already read it but I suggest the Krib faq, google it. A |
#4
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![]() soup wrote: Have googled for aquarium cycling and there seems to be 301,000 different opinions on how to do it. A straw poll, how many believe in the chemical approach and how many in hardy fish and does anyone have a method involving black cats and ouija boards ![]() As I understand it "cycling" is too get the level of good bacteria up so they can "eat" fish waste and convert it into nitrites then convert these nitrites to nitrates. -- yours S Nihil curo de ista tua stulta superstitione Best bet is to use a hardy fish, use testing kits and when ammonia, nitrite and nitrate go too high perform a water change to lower the levels. |
#5
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Despite some pretty intesive searching, I cannot seem to find any
guidelines (and I'm not even looking for anything *definitive*), on what constitutes "too high". I'm about 10 days into a new 20-gal tank with 3 zebra danios. In addition to keeping an eye on fish behavior, I monitor the pH and nitrogen levels just about every day. NH3 levels are starting to rise (still 1ppm) and NO2 is zero. What NH3 value is considered "too high" where I should perform a water change? How about for NO2 (nitrates)? Thanks in advance, Mario |
#6
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My apologies -- N02 (should be NITRITES), I know that N03 are NITRATES.
and I have a background in chemical and environmental engineering . . . Mario |
#7
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![]() soup wrote: Have googled for aquarium cycling and there seems to be 301,000 different opinions on how to do it. A straw poll, how many believe in the chemical approach and how many in hardy fish and does anyone have a method involving black cats and ouija boards ![]() As I understand it "cycling" is too get the level of good bacteria up so they can "eat" fish waste and convert it into nitrites then convert these nitrites to nitrates. Your understanding of the cycle is correct. And during this process, there is a level of toxic ammonia or Nitrite in your tank, depending on how much water is changed out at frequent intervals. If you are very conscientious and dependable during this period, and change a large amount of water daily, the impact to the fish will be minimal. Better yet, if there are live plants in the tank, the fish may not even know they're swimming in a toxic solution at all. steve |
#8
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Hi soup - You will definitely need a test kit to do this. First measure
your pH. The higher the pH the more toxic the ammonia. This may influence whether you use fish or not or which fish. Like the net I am sure you will find here, just about as many diverse views on how to start. I prefer to start fishless. Some believe even if the fish survive from cycling with fish, it is uncomfortable for the fish and gill damage may result in early death. In a five gallon tank you will really have to watch your levels very closely and probably only start with one fish. I may be a bit over the top but it may not be the best lesson for your son to accidentally kill your fish during cycling. However accidents will always happen occasionally particularly in a small tank. Even after cycled it will require some vigilance to make sure you dont have significant ammonia and nitrite spike=a few small fish, do regular water changes and dont overfeed. You might want to google for fishless cycling. I also have heard many excellent reports on using Bio Spira to cycle your tank. You will have to purchase a portion that will actually treat about 30 gallons and cost $10 or 12, however. It does allow you to start with minimal fish and since it usually helps with a very quick cycle fish damage should be less. Most of the other 'starters', I have heard are often maginal at best. With only 13 months experience and 3 tanks and 2 ponds cycled I certainly do not present myself as having near the knowledge most do on this board. However, I would add that ONE of the experts on this board, some may agree, is NetMax and I know he advocates fishless. Here is a link to his 'more than you ever wanted to know ![]() http://www.2cah.com/netmax/basics/water/water.shtml - if you want the short version you can scroll down to 'Avoiding New Tank Syndrome'. I think you will find their are the basics and they will get you a long way. Then there is a mountain of information to hone those basics. For me, the more I learn the more I enjoy being a concientous pet keeper. I now know quite a lot, but still very little. I'm sure we can assume you want to know at least the highlites or you wouldn't be here. Be very, very careful though. This fishkeeping business can become very addictive. Your 5 gallon tank may have swelled to a 55 gallon within a year if you dont watch it ![]() Enjoy!! Bill Brister - Austin, Texas "soup" wrote in message .uk... Have googled for aquarium cycling and there seems to be 301,000 different opinions on how to do it. A straw poll, how many believe in the chemical approach and how many in hardy fish and does anyone have a method involving black cats and ouija boards ![]() As I understand it "cycling" is too get the level of good bacteria up so they can "eat" fish waste and convert it into nitrites then convert these nitrites to nitrates. -- yours S Nihil curo de ista tua stulta superstitione |
#9
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![]() Mario wrote: My apologies -- N02 (should be NITRITES), I know that N03 are NITRATES. and I have a background in chemical and environmental engineering . . . Mario I consider anything over 40ppm for nitrates too high - preferable is less than 20ppm Ammonia & Nitrites I'd say any higher than 2ppm and you want to be doing water changes. Obviously you eventually want ammonia and nitrites to be 0ppm. |
#10
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Have googled for aquarium cycling and there seems
to be 301,000 different opinions on how to do it. A straw poll, how many believe in the chemical approach and how many in hardy fish and does anyone have a method involving black cats and ouija boards ![]() I will not sacrifice "starter fish" to cycle, nor do I do fishless cycling in the traditional sense (adding ammonia, et cetera). I like the "multiple aquarium" method. If you already have several established planted tanks and wish to start a new one: (a) Prepare new aquarium with treated water and about 3/4 of the gravel (or other substrate of your choice) you will need. (b) Add some gravel (or other substrate) from established tanks (replace with new). (c) Add plants from established tanks (replace with new plants if desired). (d) Install your filters. Use cartridges or biowheels from filters in established tanks (replace with new). (e) Add the heater if necessary and give the tank a few hours or so to get the temperature stable. (f) Add just a few fish. These are NOT sacrificial "starter fish" but merely serve as a small initial fish load. Voila - instant cycled aquarium. Add fish a few at a time over a month or so until you have the desired population. When I do this I seldom see any spike at all in ammonia, nitrates, or nitrites, and never see a bacteria bloom because a good bacteria population is already established in the old gravel, plants, and cartridge or biowheel and will spread slowly and naturally throughout the rest of the tank. As you can imagine, the first tank is the hardest. If I had to start a tank from scratch today, I would add treated water, substrate, plants, filter, heater, et cetera, let it sit for a day or so, add a very few fish (again, not sacrificial starter fish), and do 20% water changes daily for a couple of weeks. I did a 30-gallon tank with five goldies that way late last year. Even though that's a pretty heavy fish load, daily 20% water changes and lots of plants kept the ammonia below 1 ppm (barely discernable on my test kit). After two weeks the water was 0-0-0 and I went to my usual 20% per week changes. -- John Goulden mostly guppies, goldies, swordtails, and bettas |
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