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#11
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Pszemol wrote:
Are we talking about sand bottom tanks ? Because I would disagree with you then... I have seen astrea snails being stuck on sand turned upside down and not being able to grasp anything hard in nearby to get leverage. What is REALL hilarious is wathcing an astrea try to climb on something that is lighter than itself. I once watch an astrea try to climb on top of a nori clip that had come loose and fallen to the bottom of the tank. Every time he'd start to creep over the edge to get on top, it'd flip over (since he waieghed more). The persistent little mollusk kept at it for a good 20 mins before *I* gave up wathing. If you have sandy bottom in your tank never just drop snails - place them on the rocks right side up and watch them until they can walk... I see many snails being stuck on the sand. Depends on the smail type. Ceriths have no issue going on sand. |
#12
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Add Homonym wrote:
For some of us (not me) 1.025 would be on the high side (I keep mine at 1.026'ish) And 2.5 hours is cartainly longer than a typical drip acclimation. (you definitely can't just "bag float" these!) Thanks! I didn't do that. I'm also at 1.026, so I'll need to be more careful next time (which should be any day now). I did finally drip acclimate my first fish. It was a blenny that survived just fine, but it helped me to work out the kinks in the process. Man, there's a lot to this hobby. I haven't done fish since grade school and that was just black mollies. Good character building... --Kurt |
#13
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KurtG wrote:
I did have a conch sighting and I found the shell for another. I have no idea on the last one. It may be burrowed into the sand somewhere. My Fighting conch shows up about every two months. George Patterson No one ever says "It's only a game." when his team is winning. |
#14
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"Tristan" wrote in message ...
In the gulf of mexico in the pan handle you can literaly gather up handfulls of ceriths......LFS here get $3.98 each for them.....I often bring back a bunch every time we collect water or go to the coast I would like to see a picture of them - do you maybe have one to share ? My biggest issue with ceriths is that the typical hermits I keep loves to kill em for new houses, even though I may have a bunch of suitable shells in the tank,m they seem to prefer a fresh new house over a discarded shell....... Maybe snails just got eaten when already weak or dieing ? |
#15
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I just do not flat / temp acclimate anyhting other than some
freshwater stuff. I drip acclimate everything anymore, and it covers the temp as well as water parameters requirement. easy to do and most reliable method. I use cut off gal plastic jugs form fruit juice (usually are a heavy duty clear plastic. I use drip IV setup.....to do the drip thing, but regular air line from an aquarium will work with a air valve installed in it to regulate flow....Others tie it in a knot and pull knot tigher to regulate flow, but a air valve works so much easier, and the IV drip set works best of all.........I can buy IV drip sets at medical supply place here for a few bucks so they are cheap to buy or I get them when I visit docs office etc, as its not hard to talk them out of a few every now and then.....;-) As for most corals I do not do anyhtng to them except place em on a paper towel for a couple of minutes 1 to 3 at most, and allow them to deflate, then place them in the tank, and whenthey re-inflate they pump up with the tanks water and after a day or two usually all is just fine with them..... Snails and crabs and shrimp I acclimate for at least 45 minutes, most times 45-60 minutes.......Also toolong of acclimation period for some things can dothem more harm than not acclimating them at all... Starfish and conchs are just two that I usually take at least 2+ hours with.... On Mon, 05 Feb 2007 11:07:25 -0500, KurtG wrote: Add Homonym wrote: For some of us (not me) 1.025 would be on the high side (I keep mine at 1.026'ish) And 2.5 hours is cartainly longer than a typical drip acclimation. (you definitely can't just "bag float" these!) Thanks! I didn't do that. I'm also at 1.026, so I'll need to be more careful next time (which should be any day now). I did finally drip acclimate my first fish. It was a blenny that survived just fine, but it helped me to work out the kinks in the process. Man, there's a lot to this hobby. I haven't done fish since grade school and that was just black mollies. Good character building... --Kurt ------- I forgot more about ponds and koi than I'll ever know! |
#16
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Pszemol wrote:
Maybe snails just got eaten when already weak or dieing ? Or, when the hermit is hungry. Often the snail wins although he's usually left on his back. |
#17
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"KurtG" wrote in message .. .
Pszemol wrote: Maybe snails just got eaten when already weak or dieing ? Or, when the hermit is hungry. Often the snail wins although he's usually left on his back. Most of the snails we keep in our tanks have opercullum, which is tight fitted "doors" to their shells. When bothered by crabs/shrimps or other opportunistic predators like this they retract to the safe home and close their doors behind. Crabs cannot eat healthy snails - only sick/weak/dead ones. A different story is with predatory snails attacking other snails. They inject venom and paralyse & kill the snail before it can retract to their safe heaven shell. |
#18
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Thhis may be true but when yu get a bunch of hermits on a single snail
in time it takes its toll. I do not think its a matter of the snail being weak or sick as much as it is strength in numbers and survival of the fittest. I have a puffer that I watch very close, just for the heck of observing its habits. It will flit around and pay everything in its sight a lot of attention...... but from time to time snails and hermits all slip up and that puffer never fails to take advantage of that situation. All it takes is a nip or pinch here and there over time and soon the victim is weaked and consumed. On Mon, 5 Feb 2007 13:52:15 -0600, "Pszemol" wrote: "KurtG" wrote in message .. . Pszemol wrote: Maybe snails just got eaten when already weak or dieing ? Or, when the hermit is hungry. Often the snail wins although he's usually left on his back. Most of the snails we keep in our tanks have opercullum, which is tight fitted "doors" to their shells. When bothered by crabs/shrimps or other opportunistic predators like this they retract to the safe home and close their doors behind. Crabs cannot eat healthy snails - only sick/weak/dead ones. A different story is with predatory snails attacking other snails. They inject venom and paralyse & kill the snail before it can retract to their safe heaven shell. ------- I forgot more about ponds and koi than I'll ever know! |
#19
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"Tristan" wrote in message ...
Thhis may be true but when yu get a bunch of hermits on a single snail in time it takes its toll. I do not think its a matter of the snail being weak or sick as much as it is strength in numbers and survival of the fittest. I have a puffer that I watch very close, just for the heck of observing its habits. It will flit around and pay everything in its sight a lot of attention...... but from time to time snails and hermits all slip up and that puffer never fails to take advantage of that situation. All it takes is a nip or pinch here and there over time and soon the victim is weaked and consumed. Well, having about 100 florida blue legged, 4 scarlet and about two dozen hawaii "halooween" hermit crabs in my 58 reef tank I should see all my snails dead.... right ? Opposite is true - I have about two dozen astrea and about a dozen of ceriths there with a death rate similar to the rate in the tank with no hermits... So I would not make a big hunters out of the hermits - they do not deserve the title... :-) They are rather scavengers, or I would not have a single snail there. Sure, if I snail falls into the sand with a foot not able grab anything hard and stays is such position for couple of days unnoticed by you, the tank keeper, it will be too weak and hungry to fight crabs or simply starve to death and starts smelling tastefully for crab to rise interest in it :-) |
#20
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Why are you destroying all the other aquarium groups? If we all move here
will you stop telling people to illegally shoot herons and the disabled like Ed to commit suicide? What is it about this group that prevents you from trolling here liek you do on rec.ponds and the other fish groups? You've destroyed 4 other groups Tristan. Can you tell us the rational behind your attacks in those groups? If we start to post here will you leave us all alone like you do the other posters here? What's behind your motive in attacking and slandering old ladies and disabled veterans? Inferiority complex? "Tristan" wrote in message ... Thhis may be true but when yu get a bunch of hermits on a single snail in time it takes its toll. I do not think its a matter of the snail being weak or sick as much as it is strength in numbers and survival of the fittest. I have a puffer that I watch very close, just for the heck of observing its habits. It will flit around and pay everything in its sight a lot of attention...... but from time to time snails and hermits all slip up and that puffer never fails to take advantage of that situation. All it takes is a nip or pinch here and there over time and soon the victim is weaked and consumed. On Mon, 5 Feb 2007 13:52:15 -0600, "Pszemol" wrote: "KurtG" wrote in message .. . Pszemol wrote: Maybe snails just got eaten when already weak or dieing ? Or, when the hermit is hungry. Often the snail wins although he's usually left on his back. Most of the snails we keep in our tanks have opercullum, which is tight fitted "doors" to their shells. When bothered by crabs/shrimps or other opportunistic predators like this they retract to the safe home and close their doors behind. Crabs cannot eat healthy snails - only sick/weak/dead ones. A different story is with predatory snails attacking other snails. They inject venom and paralyse & kill the snail before it can retract to their safe heaven shell. ------- I forgot more about ponds and koi than I'll ever know! |
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