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#71
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Ali Day wrote:
"Gill Passman" wrote in message ... An additional stress would be refilling the tank (for me) - hosepipe ban as of next Monday and I'm not sure how I would cope with filling it back up again with buckets.... I wouldn't worry about it Gill, you have the same sized tank as I do, 20% a week 120L that's not even a good bath full. Big brother might be watching but he's not into counting how many baths you have a week ![]() Hope you get yer Neon problem sorted. I avoid Neon's now and have 18 cardinals which seem to be helluva alot sturdier. I've always found cardinals sturdier too, once they're used to the tank. I do tend to take more early losses with the cardinals. -- Put the word aquaria in the subject to reply. Did you read the FAQ? http://faq.thekrib.com |
#72
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Gill Passman wrote:
Just been to the LFS and asked his opinion. Turned into a bit of a training session for two new guys that have started - anyway they diagnosed NTD. We then got out the Manager's file containing some project work he did some time ago on fish disease...he had some photos - and at least one matched (fortunately one of the less gruesome)- mine don't lose their colour but just get these blister things - I haven't seen one burst but I guess this is what causes the secondary infections and fungus. He doesn't reckon that Melafix or Pimafix will help but that there is a remote chance Protozin would (it claims to treat NTD on the box) but wasn't too optimistic....he suggested giving it a try along with some salt...but his opinion was very much the same as I have read that once it has infested the fish they are doomed (unless they develop an immunity). I am worried about the shrimps though (although he claims to have used it in tanks with shrimps to no ill effect and reckons it is WaterLife covering themselves). I'm not convinced - if they've lasted 48 hours since the last death and bearing in mind the rapid decline of the others I'm inclined to go the clean water/gravel vac route - and maybe the salt... He didn't think the other fish would be at too much risk - he has seen NTD in Neons, Danios and Black Widow Tetras but that is all....this seems to be born out by other people's experiences (tetra type fish although the Danio was a suprise)...his suggestion is to not add any tetras for around 6 months after the last death...as for adding other fish he agreed none until the deaths have stopped... The whole point of that paper was that neons with NTD look externally like fish with muscle Flavobacterium infections. The only difference was the lack of spinal deformities in the Flavobacterium infected fish. There is no way to tell for sure without actually examining the muscle tissue of an affected fish under a microscope. Don't bother trying to treat NTD. It not treatable other than by gravel vaccing. Protozin will not help - aquarists have tried formalin to no avail for many years. -- Put the word aquaria in the subject to reply. Did you read the FAQ? http://faq.thekrib.com |
#73
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Gill Passman wrote:
I've got Protozin in my cupboard of tricks under one of the tanks...it was what my LFS also suggested. I have no issues trying it as long as I can be sure it won't hurt the shrimps....not come across TriCepic cream and can't get a hit on it on google... Agreed that there is something wrong with number five.... Gill This sounds harsh, but euthanize him as soon as he's weak enought to catch. You suspect NTD and it primarily spreads to fish who pick at an infected corpse. Flavobacterium can also spread to healthy fish eating a corpse, and velvet parasites rapidly flee corpses looking for another host. There is never a good reason to leave a dying fish in a tank. -- Put the word aquaria in the subject to reply. Did you read the FAQ? http://faq.thekrib.com |
#74
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Gill, You've mentioned this hosepipe ban before. After unsuccessfully
trying to come up with a reason for it I must ask. What's the purpose of the ban? How serious are the consequenses? We have water restrictions from time to time in the summer months where we can only water our lawns every third day. I've never heard of a violation as people are usually conscientious about conservation here anyway. And we're -encouraged- to wash our cars less, or use a commercial business because those are more enviro-friendly. BTW My girlfriend is Scotish so I've previously heard the term "hosepipe." That one is good, but my favorite is her pronunciation of controversy. kahn-TROV-ersy. giggle, steve Gill Passman wrote: An additional stress would be refilling the tank (for me) - hosepipe ban as of next Monday and I'm not sure how I would cope with filling it back up again with buckets.... Gill |
#75
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![]() "Mister Gardener" wrote in message ... On Wed, 29 Mar 2006 21:22:37 -0600, "Koi-Lo" wrote: "Mr. Gardener" wrote in message . .. If I had anywhere near the amount of gallons that you have, I would purchase my Melafix in the higher concentrated and less costly Pond preparation. In fact, the next time I have to buy any, hopefully never, I will probably get the concentrated stuff. Maybe I'll inquire if the stuff stores well over a long period of time. ==================== To save $$$ and product you can also drain down a tank and use a drop-in sponge filter or bubble-up box filter. I would be concerned that that would add stress at a time when I am trying to relieve stress. ====================== Why would it add stress? Draining down a tank slowly shouldn't stress the fish. -- Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995... Aquariums since 1952 My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 ~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o |
#76
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![]() "Gill Passman" wrote in message ... .....he suggested giving it a try along with some salt...but his opinion was very much the same as I have read that once it has infested the fish they are doomed (unless they develop an immunity) In which case you can have a Typhoid Mary in your tank. I hate to sound negative Gill, but ... "been there - had that happen twice." They become asymptomatic carriers. ....as for adding other fish he agreed none until the deaths have stopped... That is good advice. -- Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995... Aquariums since 1952 My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 ~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o |
#77
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default wrote:
Gill, You've mentioned this hosepipe ban before. After unsuccessfully trying to come up with a reason for it I must ask. What's the purpose of the ban? How serious are the consequenses? We have water restrictions from time to time in the summer months where we can only water our lawns every third day. I've never heard of a violation as people are usually conscientious about conservation here anyway. And we're -encouraged- to wash our cars less, or use a commercial business because those are more enviro-friendly. BTW My girlfriend is Scotish so I've previously heard the term "hosepipe." That one is good, but my favorite is her pronunciation of controversy. kahn-TROV-ersy. giggle, steve Gill Passman wrote: An additional stress would be refilling the tank (for me) - hosepipe ban as of next Monday and I'm not sure how I would cope with filling it back up again with buckets.... Gill A hosepipe/sprinkler ban is the first step the water companies make in conserving water supplies in times of shortage. Hard to believe, I know, but we have had below average rainfall over the last two winters and last summer. Although the reservoirs are full the water tables are getting dangerously low. Couple that with the fact that the infra-structure is old and breaking down - it has been reported that one third of all water supplied in my area is lost through damaged pipes. The first step the water companies take is to ban the use of hosepipes and sprinklers. They also put out advisories on ways of conserving water - eg. bath instead of shower, recycle water (eg. use water from the washing up bowl to flush the toilet - that sort of thing). This is the earliest I can remember these measures being put in place. Some areas have now through act of parliament got permission to enforce water metering on all homes. Now I know that most places have this in place but in the UK historically we paid for our water by something called Water Rates. This is a set annual charge based on the value of your property. Newer build houses/flats have water meters as standard now but there are those of us who still pay via the old rating system. Living in a household of 2 adults, 3 children and currently 8 fish tanks, plus a keen interest in gardening we have opted to keep to the old system. Of course, charging people for what they actually use is quite an efficient way of rationing providing those in question can actually afford the charges. As the season continues, if we still have below average rainfall further measures are put in place including the restriction of commercial companies using water to wash buildings/windows and vehicles. The final stage is to make people get their water from standpipes in the street - the last time this happened was in 1976 for a short period of time. Hope this explains all... Gill |
#78
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Altum wrote:
Gill Passman wrote: I've got Protozin in my cupboard of tricks under one of the tanks...it was what my LFS also suggested. I have no issues trying it as long as I can be sure it won't hurt the shrimps....not come across TriCepic cream and can't get a hit on it on google... Agreed that there is something wrong with number five.... Gill This sounds harsh, but euthanize him as soon as he's weak enought to catch. You suspect NTD and it primarily spreads to fish who pick at an infected corpse. Flavobacterium can also spread to healthy fish eating a corpse, and velvet parasites rapidly flee corpses looking for another host. There is never a good reason to leave a dying fish in a tank. He is now back swimming with the others quite happily again...I wouldn't know which one he is. The guy in the LFS suggested euthanizing the whole batch as an option but not one that he would recommend (in his words slightly one above letting nature take it's course) - his feeling is that we have a responsibility to do the best to try and treat the fish - just wish I knew what darned treatment to give them (grrr) - I do actually agree with him. While this fish is coming out from time to time and swimming normally with no marks I can't quite bring myself to hasten his demise - plus I can't tell him apart from the others. If he starts showing swimming problems he should be easy to net and deal with... In retrospect I've never had much success with Neons but have never observed anything quite like this. The 4 foot tank has housed a number of Neons that have disappeared or died - it now has just two left and I'm not planning on adding any more....none of the other fish have suffered as far as I can tell.... I agree with you on not leaving dying fish in a tank. Equally sometimes it is nigh on impossible to find them (or corpses) in a heavily planted tank until it is too late and parts of them (if not all) have been chomped....generally I net them and either put them somewhere quiet to recover or die or in some cases euthanize them if there is absolutely no hope... Gill |
#79
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"Koi-Lo" wrote in message
... "NetMax" wrote in message .. . "Koi-Lo" wrote in message ........slow fancy Goldfish that are soooooo easy to catch, even by hand. wicked grin here -- ~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o I've caught & moved many fish by hand. Sometimes I would net them and hold the net horizontal underwater (with the frame out). I would by-hand flip them around, inspect them and if ok, cradle them in my palm to the fish bag. My wet skin is far less abrasive than a net, reducing the incidence of Ich, by preserving their slime coat. -- www.NetMax.tk =================================== My problem is dropping them when they start to struggle. Fish are so slimy. I'm paranoid about handling the water-bubble-eye goldfish. I was told they can break the bubbles whether hand or net caught,.... and I'll soon have several I have to move into the larger tank. I think I'll try and scoot them into a bowl and move them water and all. What is the best and safest way to move these goldfish? -- Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995... Aquariums since 1952 My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 ~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o Submerge a milk or juice container into the tank, coral the fish into it, lift container at 45 degree angle and move to new location. -- www.NetMax.tk |
#80
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"Koi-Lo" wrote in message
... "netDenizen" wrote in message .. . Koi-Lo wrote: ===================== I hope once this problem is past you can set aside at least one tank for a quarantine tank and NEVER put new fish in your big tank without at least 14 days in quarantine. For extra protection, Q them for 21 days. Even a 10g tank off in a corner somewhere would work. Should you get some kind of disease in that large tank it's going to be a nightmare to sterilize everything. My newsreader may have missed a post or two but as I understand it these neon's were new fish you recently purchased. I don't remember you mentioning you Q'd them. That's telling them! Gill's aquarium was new, iirc. Therefore it was a quarantine tank for the few fish she started with. =========================== In that case if any disease infects the MAIN tank then no more fish can be added until the problem is solved and cured. This can be quite a job with a large tank and treatment can be very expensive. It's a lot cheaper to treat a 10g than a 55 or a 130g tank. You can also catch a fish easily in a 10g for a scraping or individual care - not so in these larger tanks. It can also take some time to solve the mystery making the large take itself quarantined. In North America, treating large tanks for Ich is cheap, and there are pond meds which make other treatments economical for only a 130g tank. The most cost prohibitive medication is antibiotics, which they don't have available in the UK anyways. Just playing devil's advocate because conditions can really vary by country. -- www.NetMax.tk When I set up my two 55gs last October (they had been in storage for 2 or 3 years) I quarantined everything in two old 10g tanks before they went into the 55s. All were treated with Quick-Cure just-in-case. Fortunately all appeared healthy so Q only lasted 14 days for them. But it's whatever works for the individual and their set-ups....... -- Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995... Aquariums since 1952 My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 ~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o |
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