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Hello hello, new here to the newsboard. thought it'd be a great place to get
bundles of opinions. this is my setup: 33gal tank 150w heater fluval 304 20W n.o. flourescent (i know i know, i'm waiting for payday to get a new lighting system, any suggestions, i'm eventually aiming to get a sun polyp in my tank, so i'm thinking ~200 watts should be sufficient, 200w giving it 6watts/gal) Right now, I'm waiting on my substrate to arrive, so my tank right now has sal****er and I threw some fish food in there to break down to give it an ammonia spike. I threw on an aquaclear mini for some water movement, and cranked the heater (water's about 82F-84F just to help the bacteria grow) I'm wanting this to be a LR tank moreso than a FO tank. For the experienced what has worked the best for filter systems? UGFs, canisters, hang ons, powerheads and live rock? Since I don't have my gravel yet I think it'll be simple to get the right filter system right off the bat. these are aquired opinions so far: UGF: helps keep algae down because of the water flow underneath the gravel helps it from being stale. fluval 304: bad news, holds the nitrates quite well I was thinkng about going with the UGF with 2 powerheads on either side of the tank to give it oodles of current. Is mechanical filtration necessary with live rock? Thanks in advance for your time. -John. |
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well, when i saw the fact that you may decide to use an undergravel filter,
i decided to reply. I never had any luck with those, but i was just a kid. always seemed a good way to get crud trapped in a system, that dead air space below the filters...... i would try an external filter because your tank isnt too big already, and if your talking about having corals in there, you may benefit by getting the filter out of tank leaving more room, and even adding more water holding capacity effectively enlarging your tanks water volume, now from here you could even go refugium in the future, but i would start out with a wet dry floor filter for your setup with atleast two 55w power compacts, no flourescent since you already know you will be needing a light upgrady and have limited canopy space, unless you already have the flourescent and wont have to spend anything on it, guess it would be ok to use in the meantime...... i would have about 1/1/2 inch or more DSB in the tank and try starting a partial DSB in the wet dry, then start culling the herd on bio balls when your system gets established and throw a light on your old wet dry filter and throw some live sand and calupera algae in it at that point, and keep it covered(under the stand so the light wont show), creating yourself a semi efficient refugium wolfhedd "Slim Shaggy" wrote in message ... Hello hello, new here to the newsboard. thought it'd be a great place to get bundles of opinions. this is my setup: 33gal tank 150w heater fluval 304 20W n.o. flourescent (i know i know, i'm waiting for payday to get a new lighting system, any suggestions, i'm eventually aiming to get a sun polyp in my tank, so i'm thinking ~200 watts should be sufficient, 200w giving it 6watts/gal) Right now, I'm waiting on my substrate to arrive, so my tank right now has sal****er and I threw some fish food in there to break down to give it an ammonia spike. I threw on an aquaclear mini for some water movement, and cranked the heater (water's about 82F-84F just to help the bacteria grow) I'm wanting this to be a LR tank moreso than a FO tank. For the experienced what has worked the best for filter systems? UGFs, canisters, hang ons, powerheads and live rock? Since I don't have my gravel yet I think it'll be simple to get the right filter system right off the bat. these are aquired opinions so far: UGF: helps keep algae down because of the water flow underneath the gravel helps it from being stale. fluval 304: bad news, holds the nitrates quite well I was thinkng about going with the UGF with 2 powerheads on either side of the tank to give it oodles of current. Is mechanical filtration necessary with live rock? Thanks in advance for your time. -John. |
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