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#1
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Hi All,
I need some input from you veterans regarding a 29 gallon reef tank I am thinking about setting up. I have done a good bit of research and I think I have it down pretty well but I have never setup a salt tank before. I have done fresh water for years but never salt. I plan on ultimately having 4-5 fish at an average full grown length of about 3 inches each, some corals, a couple shrimp and maybe a sea star or two. It's doubtful I will get into anenomes, tube worms, clams/scallops, or urchins but I guess nothing can be ruled out at this point. Below is my current wish list. I am trying to do this right the first time but I am on a budget too. ![]() of any components that might work better for my setup? Is the canister filter really necessary with all the rock I am going to be adding? I am assuming it would be nice to have a canister filter for water circulation and chem media. I thought about a wet/dry sump with a skimmer built into it but figured that would be a bit of an overkill/headache for this size of a tank. Do you think a power head for added circulation would be necessary? Components: All-Glass 29-Gallon Black-Seal Aquarium All-Glass 30" Black-Trim Versa-Top CustomSeaLife PowerCompact/Moon-Lite 30.5" 2x65 CF Lighting Sys Hagen Fluval MSF 204 Canister Filter Red Sea Prizm Hang on Protein Skimmer Ebo Jäger TS Heater (150 watt) Deep Six Hydrometer Media/Rock/Etc: 30lbs Fiji Live Rock 30lbs Carib-Sea Aragonite Substrate Instant Ocean Salt Any comments and/or suggestions would be wonderfull! Thanks! Ryan |
#2
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Hi Ryan,
I'm sure you've been doing some reading, so here's one more thing I put together for people wanting to start keeping sal****er tanks: http://www.melevsreef.com/overview.htm I've had a 29g for over 5 years now, and a good skimmer is vital. I'd suggest the Remora for you, or an Urchin if you decide to go with a sump setup. http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html You chose a good heater, and your lighting should be very good. I'm not a fan of canister filters, because you have to clean them weekly and that is kinda messy. Better to have more LR in your tank. You will definitely need power heads in your tank. At one point I had 4 in my 29g to get good flow. MaxiJet 1200's are nice reliable powerheads. A closed loop is a good way to keep them out of your tank, and stil provide flow: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com...losedloop.html Marc Ryan wrote: Hi All, I need some input from you veterans regarding a 29 gallon reef tank I am thinking about setting up. I have done a good bit of research and I think I have it down pretty well but I have never setup a salt tank before. I have done fresh water for years but never salt. I plan on ultimately having 4-5 fish at an average full grown length of about 3 inches each, some corals, a couple shrimp and maybe a sea star or two. It's doubtful I will get into anenomes, tube worms, clams/scallops, or urchins but I guess nothing can be ruled out at this point. Below is my current wish list. I am trying to do this right the first time but I am on a budget too. ![]() of any components that might work better for my setup? Is the canister filter really necessary with all the rock I am going to be adding? I am assuming it would be nice to have a canister filter for water circulation and chem media. I thought about a wet/dry sump with a skimmer built into it but figured that would be a bit of an overkill/headache for this size of a tank. Do you think a power head for added circulation would be necessary? Components: All-Glass 29-Gallon Black-Seal Aquarium All-Glass 30" Black-Trim Versa-Top CustomSeaLife PowerCompact/Moon-Lite 30.5" 2x65 CF Lighting Sys Hagen Fluval MSF 204 Canister Filter Red Sea Prizm Hang on Protein Skimmer Ebo Jäger TS Heater (150 watt) Deep Six Hydrometer Media/Rock/Etc: 30lbs Fiji Live Rock 30lbs Carib-Sea Aragonite Substrate Instant Ocean Salt Any comments and/or suggestions would be wonderfull! Thanks! Ryan -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com |
#3
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Marc gave some really good advice. I have a 29 that is doing great and
every thing in it thrives, I will list what I use for filtration and lighting and it works great for me. hope it helps. lighting consists of 4x65w PC's 3 are actinic and only one is 10KK daylight. I run them on a 6 on/off so I get two photo periods daily. for filtration I use 50 lbs LR in tank and about 15lbs in my sump/fuge (gives the pep shrimp a place to call home). in the tank I have a DSB that has 90 lbs of aragonite sand (like I said its a DEEP-SB) and in the 30 gallon sump/fuge I have another 120 lbs of aragonite sand. (the tank has course sand and the fuge has suger fine) in the fuge I grow prolifira macro algae as well as red glaceria (which is not only a great nutrient absorber but tangs love it) circulation consists of the return from the sump which is around 800 gph and in the tank I have a 235 gph sweeper power head. I also use a HOB filter with no media for circulation as well as a place to add carbon when need by and I also use it as a place to add the B-Ionic I add daily to the tank. I also add phyto plankton to the HOB because it mixes it with the tank water and distributes it in the tank at an good rate rather then all at once. I don't use a heater in the tank at all, the temp in my home is kept at 70 and the tank keeps a constant 82 and doesn't fluctuate even during the lighting period. I don't need a heater in any of my tanks (I have 13 by the way) except one and its a 100 gallon fresh water, which doesn't hold temp like the salts do. for the skimmer its an 18" Aqua-Clear Aquatics that I replaced the Rio 600 with a maxi jett 1200 and it does a great job. iv kept several leathers, shrooms, zoo's, lps's and a select few sps's as well as a derasa clam in the tank and they all thrived with this lighting setup. I currently have a sebae anemone in the tank which has excellent coloration but I honestly think I'm on the very limit of enough/not enough light for him/her but poor little Nemo is sooooooooooo happy with it. tube worms and scallops don't require lighting for their nutritional needs and I have a few of them in the tank as well. the pod population is at a plague point and the mandarin can't keep up with it. coralline algae is the best I have ever had in any tank, it will cover the front glass about 25% in a weeks time with 1/16" spots if not scraped regularly. hth kc |
#4
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"Dragon Slayer" wrote in message ...
Marc gave some really good advice. I have a 29 that is doing great and every thing in it thrives, I will list what I use for filtration and lighting and it works great for me. hope it helps. lighting consists of 4x65w PC's 3 are actinic and only one is 10KK daylight. I run them on a 6 on/off so I get two photo periods daily. for filtration I use 50 lbs LR in tank and about 15lbs in my sump/fuge (gives the pep shrimp a place to call home). in the tank I have a DSB that has 90 lbs of aragonite sand (like I said its a DEEP-SB) and in the 30 gallon sump/fuge I have another 120 lbs of aragonite sand. (the tank has course sand and the fuge has suger fine) in the fuge I grow prolifira macro algae as well as red glaceria (which is not only a great nutrient absorber but tangs love it) circulation consists of the return from the sump which is around 800 gph and in the tank I have a 235 gph sweeper power head. I also use a HOB filter with no media for circulation as well as a place to add carbon when need by and I also use it as a place to add the B-Ionic I add daily to the tank. I also add phyto plankton to the HOB because it mixes it with the tank water and distributes it in the tank at an good rate rather then all at once. I don't use a heater in the tank at all, the temp in my home is kept at 70 and the tank keeps a constant 82 and doesn't fluctuate even during the lighting period. I don't need a heater in any of my tanks (I have 13 by the way) except one and its a 100 gallon fresh water, which doesn't hold temp like the salts do. for the skimmer its an 18" Aqua-Clear Aquatics that I replaced the Rio 600 with a maxi jett 1200 and it does a great job. iv kept several leathers, shrooms, zoo's, lps's and a select few sps's as well as a derasa clam in the tank and they all thrived with this lighting setup. I currently have a sebae anemone in the tank which has excellent coloration but I honestly think I'm on the very limit of enough/not enough light for him/her but poor little Nemo is sooooooooooo happy with it. tube worms and scallops don't require lighting for their nutritional needs and I have a few of them in the tank as well. the pod population is at a plague point and the mandarin can't keep up with it. coralline algae is the best I have ever had in any tank, it will cover the front glass about 25% in a weeks time with 1/16" spots if not scraped regularly. hth kc Thanks guys for all your help! This is turning into a $2000 project so I think I am going to need to save my pennies a little bit longer. ![]() instead of the canister filter and I upgraded/added a few other items, including replacing the prizm skimmer with an aquaC urchin. I may add a second light kit down the line if I get into a situation where I need super intense light. Primary Hardware All-Glass 29-Gallon Black-Seal Glass Aquarium All-Glass 30" Black-Trim Versa-Top Glass Top CustomSeaLife PowerCompact/Moon-Lite 30.5" 2x65 CF Ebo Jäger TS Heater (150 watt) Amiracle Mudd Filter w/ Supreme Mag-Drive 5 AquaC Urchin In-Sump Skimmer /w Maxi Jet 1200 Whipser Power Filter 40 (for charcoal/bio media & food/medication disbursement) Zoo Med Power Sweep 214 Powerhead /w Pre-Filter Water Purification Kent Marine Hi-S Maxxima R/O Unit - 35gpd Live Rock/Substrate/Additives 60lbs Fuji Live Rock 60lbs Carib-Sea Aragonite Substrate 12lbs Kent Marine BioSediment Instant Ocean Salt Kent Marine Marine Starter Kit Kent Marine Reef Starter Kit Kent Marine OSMO Prep Marine - R/O Water Conditioner How does it look now? Thanks again, Ryan |
#5
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I am leaning toward a small mud sump
instead of the canister filter dont lean just dont get a canister and I upgraded/added a few other items, including replacing the prizm skimmer with an aquaC urchin. I may add a second light kit down the line if I get into a situation where I need super intense light. later Primary Hardware All-Glass 29-Gallon Black-Seal Glass Aquarium there is a 37 that can be had for not much more All-Glass 30" Black-Trim Versa-Top Glass Top CustomSeaLife PowerCompact/Moon-Lite 30.5" 2x65 CF Ebo Jäger TS Heater (150 watt) Amiracle Mudd Filter w/ Supreme Mag-Drive 5 toss that AquaC Urchin In-Sump Skimmer /w Maxi Jet 1200 Whipser Power Filter 40 (for charcoal/bio media & food/medication disbursement) and that, reef tanks dont need these items. Zoo Med Power Sweep 214 Powerhead /w Pre-Filter you can get cheaper more reliable. Water Purification Kent Marine Hi-S Maxxima R/O Unit - 35gpd Live Rock/Substrate/Additives 60lbs Fuji Live Rock shop around buy in bulk or order online 60lbs Carib-Sea Aragonite Substrate you can often find cheaper sand thatll do the same thing southdown and alternatives 12lbs Kent Marine BioSediment skip it LR is enough Instant Ocean Salt Kent Marine Marine Starter Kit Kent Marine Reef Starter Kit skip both -- you wont need it Kent Marine OSMO Prep Marine - R/O Water Conditioner skip it you dont want it How does it look now? Thanks again, Ryan -- Richard Reynolds |
#6
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Hi Ryan,
Read below.... Ryan wrote: All-Glass 29-Gallon Black-Seal Glass Aquarium All-Glass 30" Black-Trim Versa-Top Glass Top CustomSeaLife PowerCompact/Moon-Lite 30.5" 2x65 CF Ebo Jäger TS Heater (150 watt) Amiracle Mudd Filter w/ Supreme Mag-Drive 5 Miracle Mudd is very expensive, and doesn't provide the success it promises, *in my experience*. Better to just use some aragonite sand, and seed it with some live sand from another aquarium. AquaC Urchin In-Sump Skimmer /w Maxi Jet 1200 Whipser Power Filter 40 (for charcoal/bio media & food/medication disbursement) You will almost NEVER medicate a tank, because most will kill invertebrates. You also don't need to run carbon, if your LR and LS are in good shape. I don't run carbon on either of my tanks, and I don't change water as often as most. Just an FYI. Zoo Med Power Sweep 214 Powerhead /w Pre-Filter These tend to sweep for a while, then get stuck in one position forever. Just use MaxiJets instead, as they are relatively cheap and very reliable. Water Purification Kent Marine Hi-S Maxxima R/O Unit - 35gpd I'm not sure what you'll pay for this, but the 100gpd 5-stage RO/DI I sell is $149 and will make you water much more quickly. When you need some new water, waiting on an RO unit is the pits.Plus you'll have clean drinking water as well. http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/tank/ro_di.html Live Rock/Substrate/Additives 60lbs Fuji Live Rock 60lbs Carib-Sea Aragonite Substrate 12lbs Kent Marine BioSediment Just get one or two cups (literally) of LS from your LFS's refugium or display tank. Instant Ocean Salt Kent Marine Marine Starter Kit Kent Marine Reef Starter Kit You won't need either of these "starter kits" Kent Marine OSMO Prep Marine - R/O Water Conditioner You don't need any type of additive with RO/DI water, as it is pure. You can't get more pure than pure, right? ![]() Marc -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com |
#7
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Marc Levenson wrote in message ...
Hi Ryan, Read below.... Ryan wrote: All-Glass 29-Gallon Black-Seal Glass Aquarium All-Glass 30" Black-Trim Versa-Top Glass Top CustomSeaLife PowerCompact/Moon-Lite 30.5" 2x65 CF Ebo Jäger TS Heater (150 watt) Amiracle Mudd Filter w/ Supreme Mag-Drive 5 Miracle Mudd is very expensive, and doesn't provide the success it promises, *in my experience*. Better to just use some aragonite sand, and seed it with some live sand from another aquarium. AquaC Urchin In-Sump Skimmer /w Maxi Jet 1200 Whipser Power Filter 40 (for charcoal/bio media & food/medication disbursement) You will almost NEVER medicate a tank, because most will kill invertebrates. You also don't need to run carbon, if your LR and LS are in good shape. I don't run carbon on either of my tanks, and I don't change water as often as most. Just an FYI. Zoo Med Power Sweep 214 Powerhead /w Pre-Filter These tend to sweep for a while, then get stuck in one position forever. Just use MaxiJets instead, as they are relatively cheap and very reliable. Water Purification Kent Marine Hi-S Maxxima R/O Unit - 35gpd I'm not sure what you'll pay for this, but the 100gpd 5-stage RO/DI I sell is $149 and will make you water much more quickly. When you need some new water, waiting on an RO unit is the pits.Plus you'll have clean drinking water as well. http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/tank/ro_di.html Live Rock/Substrate/Additives 60lbs Fuji Live Rock 60lbs Carib-Sea Aragonite Substrate 12lbs Kent Marine BioSediment Just get one or two cups (literally) of LS from your LFS's refugium or display tank. Instant Ocean Salt Kent Marine Marine Starter Kit Kent Marine Reef Starter Kit You won't need either of these "starter kits" Kent Marine OSMO Prep Marine - R/O Water Conditioner You don't need any type of additive with RO/DI water, as it is pure. You can't get more pure than pure, right? ![]() Marc You guys rock! Your suggestions will save me a lot of money and a lot of time and I really appreciate it! So should I have a refugium only sump or a wet/dry refugium combo sump? Thanks again, Ryan |
#8
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Go to my site and check out the sumps. You want a sump & refugium. You won't need a wet/dry setup for a reef
tank. Marc Ryan wrote: You guys rock! Your suggestions will save me a lot of money and a lot of time and I really appreciate it! So should I have a refugium only sump or a wet/dry refugium combo sump? Thanks again, Ryan -- Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com |
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