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#1
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![]() I haven't had an aquarium since I was a kid but for the past 6 months I have been reading the newsgroups and various books on tropical fish and got the itch to get a tank going again. There was a 29 gallon tank with stand at the LFS by my house that I really liked. My wife surprised me on our 2 year anniversary and bought it for me. After doing some research, I bought the following for it: * Marineland Emperor 280 HOB filter with bio-wheel * Marineland Visi-Therm Stealth 100 submersible heater * Estes' Ultra Reef black marine sand (says safe for fresh or salt water) * Couple of fake pieces of wood and plants Here is a picture of my tank the night I filled it up with water for the first time (the picture was taken before I setup the Emperor filter): http://www.debaser.net/v1.5/images/fish_tank.jpg I conditioned the water with Jungle Water Safe Plus and let the tank run for a couple of days. I tested my water with those Jungle 5 in 1 quick dip test strips and it showed the following: pH at 7.8, alkalinity (KH) at 180ppm and hardness (GH) at 150ppm. I set the heater to 76 and had it mounted on a 45 degree angle under the filter near the bottom of the tank. I was having problems with the temperature of the water moving up and down 1-2 degrees so I mounted the heater vertically under the filter to the left a little and the temperature stays right at 76 degrees now. I decided I ultimately wanted to have a species tank with tiger barbs so I picked up 3 green tiger barbs to cycle the tank. The fish were loving the tank and having a good time. There was one that was definately leader of the pack and would chase the other two around. I should have been keeping a better eye on them because after about two weeks, two of the barbs had there fins nipped really bad. One was so bad that it's pelvic fins were just these white puffs and his caudal fin was in rough shape too. The other one had his caudal fin nipped but was still in ok shape. During these two weeks, I had been checking my ammonia and nothing seemed to be showing up yet. My water had a cloudy look to it which I believe was from the backteria starting to grow. In fearing for my fish, I decided to get 3 albino tiger barbs to add to the tank, thinking the leader of the pack would have other fish to distract him. Unfortunately, it was too late and the one green tiger barb with the bad pelvic fins died soon after. A couple of days later, the other green tiger barb died. I decided I didn't want my 3 albino's to suffer the same fate so I took out the last green tiger barb out of the 29g tank. Shortly after adding the 3 albino's, I started seeing my ammonia level come up to about .25ppm. Around this same time, one of my albino's got some kind of eye infection. His right eye was really cloudy and enlarged. A couple of days later, he died. After I removed him from the tank, I did my first water change, which was around 20%. This was about 3 weeks after I initially setup the tank. At the same time, I also removed quite a bit of the sand to get it down to about an inch deep since I added too much initially. This probably wasn't a good thing to do as I'm sure it set back my cycling. I bought a Python to do my water changes and was doing a 20% water changes every 3 days after the first water change. The first couple water changes, I was adding the water directly to the tank and then putting in a capful of AquaPlus to remove the chlorine. I felt like I was wasting a ton of water with the Python and didn't really like the idea of adding untreated tap water directly to the tank so I bought a cheap syphon and a 5 gallon bucket to do water changes. I actually like this alot better than the Python. It's been 6 weeks since I initially setup my tank and it is only showing somewhere between .25 and .50ppm of ammonia and no signs of nitrite. My other levels are still the same (pH 7.8, KH 180ppm and GH at 150ppm). The two remaining albino's seems to be doing fine, tho one does get picked on by the other but I've been keeping an eye on his fins and they are fine. They actually like it when I do water changes and one of them swims right up to the hose as the water comes into the tank. My water still has a faint cloudy look to it. Should I continuing doing 20% water changes every 3 days until my tank is cycled? I was talking to a guy who seemed knowledgeable at the LFS tonight and he recommended I put some Hagen Cycle in my tank to help speed up the cycling process and that I cut back on water changes to once a week. What do you guys think? Also, should I replace the filter in my Emperor? It's been 6 weeks and they say to change these every month. I'm thinking I shouldn't since I don't want to possibly delay my tank cycling even longer. Also, the bio-wheel still seems to be moving pretty fast, no matter which way I turn the spray bar. It doesn't seem to be too discolored yet either. Speaking of spray bar, what position do you guys who have one of these filters put the spray bar and does it really matter? Sorry for the long winded post. I just wanted to make sure I included enough info about what has been going on with my tank for the past 6 weeks. Any input would be appreciate. Thanks. Rodney |
#2
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Rodney M muttered darkly:
I haven't had an aquarium since I was a kid but for the past 6 months I have been reading the newsgroups and various books on tropical fish and got the itch to get a tank going again. There was a 29 gallon tank with stand at the LFS by my house that I really liked. My wife surprised me on our 2 year anniversary and bought it for me. After doing some research, I bought the following for it: * Marineland Emperor 280 HOB filter with bio-wheel * Marineland Visi-Therm Stealth 100 submersible heater * Estes' Ultra Reef black marine sand (says safe for fresh or salt water) * Couple of fake pieces of wood and plants Here is a picture of my tank the night I filled it up with water for the first time (the picture was taken before I setup the Emperor filter): http://www.debaser.net/v1.5/images/fish_tank.jpg I conditioned the water with Jungle Water Safe Plus and let the tank run for a couple of days. I tested my water with those Jungle 5 in 1 quick dip test strips and it showed the following: pH at 7.8, alkalinity (KH) at 180ppm and hardness (GH) at 150ppm. I set the heater to 76 and had it mounted on a 45 degree angle under the filter near the bottom of the tank. I was having problems with the temperature of the water moving up and down 1-2 degrees so I mounted the heater vertically under the filter to the left a little and the temperature stays right at 76 degrees now. I decided I ultimately wanted to have a species tank with tiger barbs so I picked up 3 green tiger barbs to cycle the tank. The fish were loving the tank and having a good time. There was one that was definately leader of the pack and would chase the other two around. I should have been keeping a better eye on them because after about two weeks, two of the barbs had there fins nipped really bad. One was so bad that it's pelvic fins were just these white puffs and his caudal fin was in rough shape too. The other one had his caudal fin nipped but was still in ok shape. During these two weeks, I had been checking my ammonia and nothing seemed to be showing up yet. My water had a cloudy look to it which I believe was from the backteria starting to grow. In fearing for my fish, I decided to get 3 albino tiger barbs to add to the tank, thinking the leader of the pack would have other fish to distract him. Unfortunately, it was too late and the one green tiger barb with the bad pelvic fins died soon after. A couple of days later, the other green tiger barb died. I decided I didn't want my 3 albino's to suffer the same fate so I took out the last green tiger barb out of the 29g tank. Shortly after adding the 3 albino's, I started seeing my ammonia level come up to about .25ppm. Around this same time, one of my albino's got some kind of eye infection. His right eye was really cloudy and enlarged. A couple of days later, he died. After I removed him from the tank, I did my first water change, which was around 20%. This was about 3 weeks after I initially setup the tank. At the same time, I also removed quite a bit of the sand to get it down to about an inch deep since I added too much initially. This probably wasn't a good thing to do as I'm sure it set back my cycling. I bought a Python to do my water changes and was doing a 20% water changes every 3 days after the first water change. The first couple water changes, I was adding the water directly to the tank and then putting in a capful of AquaPlus to remove the chlorine. I felt like I was wasting a ton of water with the Python and didn't really like the idea of adding untreated tap water directly to the tank so I bought a cheap syphon and a 5 gallon bucket to do water changes. I actually like this alot better than the Python. It's been 6 weeks since I initially setup my tank and it is only showing somewhere between .25 and .50ppm of ammonia and no signs of nitrite. My other levels are still the same (pH 7.8, KH 180ppm and GH at 150ppm). The two remaining albino's seems to be doing fine, tho one does get picked on by the other but I've been keeping an eye on his fins and they are fine. They actually like it when I do water changes and one of them swims right up to the hose as the water comes into the tank. My water still has a faint cloudy look to it. Should I continuing doing 20% water changes every 3 days until my tank is cycled? I was talking to a guy who seemed knowledgeable at the LFS tonight and he recommended I put some Hagen Cycle in my tank to help speed up the cycling process and that I cut back on water changes to once a week. What do you guys think? Also, should I replace the filter in my Emperor? It's been 6 weeks and they say to change these every month. I'm thinking I shouldn't since I don't want to possibly delay my tank cycling even longer. Also, the bio-wheel still seems to be moving pretty fast, no matter which way I turn the spray bar. It doesn't seem to be too discolored yet either. Speaking of spray bar, what position do you guys who have one of these filters put the spray bar and does it really matter? Sorry for the long winded post. I just wanted to make sure I included enough info about what has been going on with my tank for the past 6 weeks. Any input would be appreciate. Thanks. Rodney I'm sure you'll get a lot of replies to this one Rodney, but here's my two penn'orth: IMHO you've made the common & understandable error of being a bit too keen to get fish in there - I'd have waited for at least a couple of weeks before introducing any fish at all, to give the tank a chance to cycle. If at all possible it's best to use some water / gravel / filter media from an already established tank when setting up yours (I'm sure others will expand on this theme). You obviously like Tiger barbs, but introducing such a small number was probably not a great idea - they really need to be in a group of at least 6, otherwise their natural nippy tendencies get concentrated on the weakest link, as you saw - in a larger group, this behaviour gets "diluted". As to the water changes, and the gravel removal, I'd agree that you've delayed the proper cycling of the tank - doing 20% changes every 3 days it'll never get a chance to settle down! Also, don't even think about replacing your filter media yet... Best of luck, & patience, patience! ;-) |
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On Fri, 16 Dec 2005 15:25:46 GMT, "slylittlei"
wrote: Rodney M muttered darkly: I haven't had an aquarium since I was a kid but for the past 6 months I have been reading the newsgroups and various books on tropical fish and got the itch to get a tank going again. There was a 29 gallon tank with stand at the LFS by my house that I really liked. My wife surprised me on our 2 year anniversary and bought it for me. After doing some research, I bought the following for it: * Marineland Emperor 280 HOB filter with bio-wheel * Marineland Visi-Therm Stealth 100 submersible heater * Estes' Ultra Reef black marine sand (says safe for fresh or salt water) * Couple of fake pieces of wood and plants Here is a picture of my tank the night I filled it up with water for the first time (the picture was taken before I setup the Emperor filter): http://www.debaser.net/v1.5/images/fish_tank.jpg I conditioned the water with Jungle Water Safe Plus and let the tank run for a couple of days. I tested my water with those Jungle 5 in 1 quick dip test strips and it showed the following: pH at 7.8, alkalinity (KH) at 180ppm and hardness (GH) at 150ppm. I set the heater to 76 and had it mounted on a 45 degree angle under the filter near the bottom of the tank. I was having problems with the temperature of the water moving up and down 1-2 degrees so I mounted the heater vertically under the filter to the left a little and the temperature stays right at 76 degrees now. I decided I ultimately wanted to have a species tank with tiger barbs so I picked up 3 green tiger barbs to cycle the tank. The fish were loving the tank and having a good time. There was one that was definately leader of the pack and would chase the other two around. I should have been keeping a better eye on them because after about two weeks, two of the barbs had there fins nipped really bad. One was so bad that it's pelvic fins were just these white puffs and his caudal fin was in rough shape too. The other one had his caudal fin nipped but was still in ok shape. During these two weeks, I had been checking my ammonia and nothing seemed to be showing up yet. My water had a cloudy look to it which I believe was from the backteria starting to grow. In fearing for my fish, I decided to get 3 albino tiger barbs to add to the tank, thinking the leader of the pack would have other fish to distract him. Unfortunately, it was too late and the one green tiger barb with the bad pelvic fins died soon after. A couple of days later, the other green tiger barb died. I decided I didn't want my 3 albino's to suffer the same fate so I took out the last green tiger barb out of the 29g tank. Shortly after adding the 3 albino's, I started seeing my ammonia level come up to about .25ppm. Around this same time, one of my albino's got some kind of eye infection. His right eye was really cloudy and enlarged. A couple of days later, he died. After I removed him from the tank, I did my first water change, which was around 20%. This was about 3 weeks after I initially setup the tank. At the same time, I also removed quite a bit of the sand to get it down to about an inch deep since I added too much initially. This probably wasn't a good thing to do as I'm sure it set back my cycling. I bought a Python to do my water changes and was doing a 20% water changes every 3 days after the first water change. The first couple water changes, I was adding the water directly to the tank and then putting in a capful of AquaPlus to remove the chlorine. I felt like I was wasting a ton of water with the Python and didn't really like the idea of adding untreated tap water directly to the tank so I bought a cheap syphon and a 5 gallon bucket to do water changes. I actually like this alot better than the Python. It's been 6 weeks since I initially setup my tank and it is only showing somewhere between .25 and .50ppm of ammonia and no signs of nitrite. My other levels are still the same (pH 7.8, KH 180ppm and GH at 150ppm). The two remaining albino's seems to be doing fine, tho one does get picked on by the other but I've been keeping an eye on his fins and they are fine. They actually like it when I do water changes and one of them swims right up to the hose as the water comes into the tank. My water still has a faint cloudy look to it. Should I continuing doing 20% water changes every 3 days until my tank is cycled? I was talking to a guy who seemed knowledgeable at the LFS tonight and he recommended I put some Hagen Cycle in my tank to help speed up the cycling process and that I cut back on water changes to once a week. What do you guys think? Also, should I replace the filter in my Emperor? It's been 6 weeks and they say to change these every month. I'm thinking I shouldn't since I don't want to possibly delay my tank cycling even longer. Also, the bio-wheel still seems to be moving pretty fast, no matter which way I turn the spray bar. It doesn't seem to be too discolored yet either. Speaking of spray bar, what position do you guys who have one of these filters put the spray bar and does it really matter? Sorry for the long winded post. I just wanted to make sure I included enough info about what has been going on with my tank for the past 6 weeks. Any input would be appreciate. Thanks. Rodney I'm sure you'll get a lot of replies to this one Rodney, but here's my two penn'orth: IMHO you've made the common & understandable error of being a bit too keen to get fish in there - I'd have waited for at least a couple of weeks before introducing any fish at all, to give the tank a chance to cycle. Everything that I've read says to start with a couple of hardy fish to cycle your tank. How is the tank going to cycle with no fish (use something like Cycle)? If at all possible it's best to use some water / gravel / filter media from an already established tank when setting up yours (I'm sure others will expand on this theme). Unfortunately this was something I couldn't do since I don't have any friends with tanks and I'm not sure the LFS would be willing to give me any fitler media or gravel from one of their tanks, tho I never did ask them. You obviously like Tiger barbs, but introducing such a small number was probably not a great idea - they really need to be in a group of at least 6, otherwise their natural nippy tendencies get concentrated on the weakest link, as you saw - in a larger group, this behaviour gets "diluted". Your right, I found this out the hard way. ![]() As to the water changes, and the gravel removal, I'd agree that you've delayed the proper cycling of the tank - doing 20% changes every 3 days it'll never get a chance to settle down! Also, don't even think about replacing your filter media yet... So how often should I be doing water changes during the cycling period, if at all? Do I wait for the ammonia levels to get high before changing the water? Websites like http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php say to do a 10%-15% water change every couple of days during the cycling process. http://www.2cah.com/netmax/basics/water/water.shtml says during the cycling process, don't have many fish, feed sparingly and do lots of water changes. Best of luck, & patience, patience! ;-) Thanks for the info and I'll continue to be patient. Take care. Rodney |
#4
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![]() "Rodney M" wrote in message ... I haven't had an aquarium since I was a kid but for the past 6 months I have been reading the newsgroups and various books on tropical fish and got the itch to get a tank going again. There was a 29 gallon tank with stand at the LFS by my house that I really liked. My wife surprised me on our 2 year anniversary and bought it for me. After doing some research, I bought the following for it: =====================brevity snip! Sometimes a tank takes awhile to "cycle." Be patient. I have a 10g with 2 small goldfish that is taking forever to cycle even thought the filter has 2 "used and seeded" sponges in it. Other tanks with seeded sponges either never show an ammonia surge, or show a very reading for a few days. Go figure! :-) As for the tiger barbs. You couldn't pay me to have this fish in any of my tanks. You really need to purchase about 8 to 10 of them to keep them from nipping each other to death. And they do get large if well fed and cared for. If you really like them buy at least 10 and add them to your tank all at the same time (after it cycles). Hope for the best. Watch for torn fins and infection anyway........ good luck! -- Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995... My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy ~~~ }((((o ~~~ }{{{{o ~~~ }(((((o |
#5
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Rodney M wrote:
On Fri, 16 Dec 2005 15:25:46 GMT, "slylittlei" wrote: So how often should I be doing water changes during the cycling period, if at all? Do I wait for the ammonia levels to get high before changing the water? Websites like http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php say to do a 10%-15% water change every couple of days during the cycling process. http://www.2cah.com/netmax/basics/water/water.shtml says during the cycling process, don't have many fish, feed sparingly and do lots of water changes. Best of luck, & patience, patience! ;-) Thanks for the info and I'll continue to be patient. Take care. Rodney I had cycling problems many years ago in setting up my 90 gallon aquarium. I did not use test kits (no internet to recomend them) and wasn't really aware of the cycling process, although the Hagen filter literature described the nitrogen (handling) cycle. I went through green and cloudy water. I also lost a couple of fish apparently due to disease, but almost certainly from cycling stress. I'll give my answer to your question, for what it's worth. By all means do regular, even daily, partial water changes during the cycle if you have fish and the ammonia or nitrite are approaching stressful/ harmful levels. The water changes may help you keep conditions tolerable for the fish, and the cycle should complete anyway. Once my big aquarium settled down it became incredibly stable and healthy. Good luck with yours ![]() Steve |
#6
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![]() Rodney M wrote: On Fri, 16 Dec 2005 15:25:46 GMT, "slylittlei" wrote: Rodney M muttered darkly: I haven't had an aquarium since I was a kid but for the past 6 months I have been reading the newsgroups and various books on tropical fish and got the itch to get a tank going again. There was a 29 gallon tank with stand at the LFS by my house that I really liked. My wife surprised me on our 2 year anniversary and bought it for me. After doing some research, I bought the following for it: * Marineland Emperor 280 HOB filter with bio-wheel * Marineland Visi-Therm Stealth 100 submersible heater * Estes' Ultra Reef black marine sand (says safe for fresh or salt water) * Couple of fake pieces of wood and plants Here is a picture of my tank the night I filled it up with water for the first time (the picture was taken before I setup the Emperor filter): http://www.debaser.net/v1.5/images/fish_tank.jpg I conditioned the water with Jungle Water Safe Plus and let the tank run for a couple of days. I tested my water with those Jungle 5 in 1 quick dip test strips and it showed the following: pH at 7.8, alkalinity (KH) at 180ppm and hardness (GH) at 150ppm. I set the heater to 76 and had it mounted on a 45 degree angle under the filter near the bottom of the tank. I was having problems with the temperature of the water moving up and down 1-2 degrees so I mounted the heater vertically under the filter to the left a little and the temperature stays right at 76 degrees now. I decided I ultimately wanted to have a species tank with tiger barbs so I picked up 3 green tiger barbs to cycle the tank. The fish were loving the tank and having a good time. There was one that was definately leader of the pack and would chase the other two around. I should have been keeping a better eye on them because after about two weeks, two of the barbs had there fins nipped really bad. One was so bad that it's pelvic fins were just these white puffs and his caudal fin was in rough shape too. The other one had his caudal fin nipped but was still in ok shape. During these two weeks, I had been checking my ammonia and nothing seemed to be showing up yet. My water had a cloudy look to it which I believe was from the backteria starting to grow. In fearing for my fish, I decided to get 3 albino tiger barbs to add to the tank, thinking the leader of the pack would have other fish to distract him. Unfortunately, it was too late and the one green tiger barb with the bad pelvic fins died soon after. A couple of days later, the other green tiger barb died. I decided I didn't want my 3 albino's to suffer the same fate so I took out the last green tiger barb out of the 29g tank. Shortly after adding the 3 albino's, I started seeing my ammonia level come up to about .25ppm. Around this same time, one of my albino's got some kind of eye infection. His right eye was really cloudy and enlarged. A couple of days later, he died. After I removed him from the tank, I did my first water change, which was around 20%. This was about 3 weeks after I initially setup the tank. At the same time, I also removed quite a bit of the sand to get it down to about an inch deep since I added too much initially. This probably wasn't a good thing to do as I'm sure it set back my cycling. I bought a Python to do my water changes and was doing a 20% water changes every 3 days after the first water change. The first couple water changes, I was adding the water directly to the tank and then putting in a capful of AquaPlus to remove the chlorine. I felt like I was wasting a ton of water with the Python and didn't really like the idea of adding untreated tap water directly to the tank so I bought a cheap syphon and a 5 gallon bucket to do water changes. I actually like this alot better than the Python. It's been 6 weeks since I initially setup my tank and it is only showing somewhere between .25 and .50ppm of ammonia and no signs of nitrite. My other levels are still the same (pH 7.8, KH 180ppm and GH at 150ppm). The two remaining albino's seems to be doing fine, tho one does get picked on by the other but I've been keeping an eye on his fins and they are fine. They actually like it when I do water changes and one of them swims right up to the hose as the water comes into the tank. My water still has a faint cloudy look to it. Should I continuing doing 20% water changes every 3 days until my tank is cycled? I was talking to a guy who seemed knowledgeable at the LFS tonight and he recommended I put some Hagen Cycle in my tank to help speed up the cycling process and that I cut back on water changes to once a week. What do you guys think? Also, should I replace the filter in my Emperor? It's been 6 weeks and they say to change these every month. I'm thinking I shouldn't since I don't want to possibly delay my tank cycling even longer. Also, the bio-wheel still seems to be moving pretty fast, no matter which way I turn the spray bar. It doesn't seem to be too discolored yet either. Speaking of spray bar, what position do you guys who have one of these filters put the spray bar and does it really matter? Sorry for the long winded post. I just wanted to make sure I included enough info about what has been going on with my tank for the past 6 weeks. Any input would be appreciate. Thanks. Rodney I'm sure you'll get a lot of replies to this one Rodney, but here's my two penn'orth: IMHO you've made the common & understandable error of being a bit too keen to get fish in there - I'd have waited for at least a couple of weeks before introducing any fish at all, to give the tank a chance to cycle. Everything that I've read says to start with a couple of hardy fish to cycle your tank. How is the tank going to cycle with no fish (use something like Cycle)? If at all possible it's best to use some water / gravel / filter media from an already established tank when setting up yours (I'm sure others will expand on this theme). Unfortunately this was something I couldn't do since I don't have any friends with tanks and I'm not sure the LFS would be willing to give me any fitler media or gravel from one of their tanks, tho I never did ask them. You obviously like Tiger barbs, but introducing such a small number was probably not a great idea - they really need to be in a group of at least 6, otherwise their natural nippy tendencies get concentrated on the weakest link, as you saw - in a larger group, this behaviour gets "diluted". Your right, I found this out the hard way. ![]() As to the water changes, and the gravel removal, I'd agree that you've delayed the proper cycling of the tank - doing 20% changes every 3 days it'll never get a chance to settle down! Also, don't even think about replacing your filter media yet... So how often should I be doing water changes during the cycling period, if at all? Do I wait for the ammonia levels to get high before changing the water? Websites like http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php say to do a 10%-15% water change every couple of days during the cycling process. http://www.2cah.com/netmax/basics/water/water.shtml says during the cycling process, don't have many fish, feed sparingly and do lots of water changes. Best of luck, & patience, patience! ;-) Thanks for the info and I'll continue to be patient. Take care. Rodney Everything that I've read says to start with a couple of hardy fish to cycle your tank. How is the tank going to cycle with no fish (use something like Cycle)? The procuct Cycle is just going to waste your money, and not cycle your tank. It's not even going to help it get started. One of those bogus produtcs out there. You can, however, use a product called Bio Spira to cycle a tank in 24 hours. It's the only one with the correct bacteria in it. It also needs to be kept inthe frige, so you do need to ask is they carry it. (It's not always obvious if they have the frige in the backroom). You can also fishless cycle using unscented, household ammonia (there's a recipe and directions if you need it). However, you can't do this since you already have the fish. Call around for the BioSpira though. I believe you'll be be fine with the 1 oz pack, but if they only have the 3oz, no problem. You can't use too much, only too little. As for the water changes during the cycling period..of course you still do them. However, go to a once a week, 20% change. Now if the ammonia levels are in a danger area, go to twice weekly, same %. I'd leave to the gravel vacuuming until a couple weeks have passed. The ammonia level would have increased anyway in your tank. Besides being *in* the cycling period already, you added the Cories....putting more strain on the nitrifying bacteria that were trying to grow numbers to handle the bio load of the existing fish load..then you added the Cories, bio load increased, not enough bacteria in the first place, ammonia levels rise, fish stress and die easily. This is what happens when cycling with fish, and adding more too soon. Too late to say don't do that, but at least you are here asking how to do things. = ) All you can do now is keep up with doing water changed during the cycling period with the fish you already have. The nirtrifying bacteria do not float in the water, they stick to all the surfaces and gravel in the tank, so doing water changes isn't going to remove them during the cycling period. This is a common myth.... that if you remove any water during the cycling, you're taking out too many of the bacteria colony. Not so. They're the gooey stuff that you feel on the surfaces of everything in the tank. That slimey stuff are the bacteria. During the cycling period I only clean off the front glass. After the cycling period is over, I also clean the rest of the tank walls during a normal water change. Now, If you can find BioSpira, NO problem! Just do a water change, add BioSpira, no problem. Your tank's good to go in 24 hours. However, that is the only product you can do that with. The other products that do not work (wrong bacteria) StressZyme, BioZyme, Cycle, and Kent has one out there too..so does Seachem. If you have a PetLand near you, they seem to carry BioSpira the most. |
#7
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Hi..
http://www.debaser.net/v1.5/images/fish_tank.jpg [...] Sorry, that photo shows IMHO no interior arrangement for tiger barbs. A 29 gallon tank is IMHO the (lowest) limit to keep tiger barbs at all. So you are limited to keep a small group tiger barbs (5-7), only. In smaller groups hunting or biting might be a problem. They need space to swimm around, more interior or plants to hide behind while playing hide an seek all day long. The fish keeper's primary directive is to keep the fish healthy. Cyling a tank while keeping _fish_ (- worst case) means: 1: Daily NO2 tests 2: If NO2 == yes - change water, 60-80%, daily, as long as NO2 is present. The swollen eye signals bad water. NO2 or bacteria that cloud water means stress, and stress weakens the immune system, so please remember to the fish keeper's primary derective.. ;-) Good luck! cu Marco |
#8
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"Rodney M" wrote in message
... I haven't had an aquarium since I was a kid but for the past 6 months I have been reading the newsgroups and various books on tropical fish and got the itch to get a tank going again. There was a 29 gallon tank with stand at the LFS by my house that I really liked. My wife surprised me on our 2 year anniversary and bought it for me. After doing some research, I bought the following for it: Welcome back to the hobby ![]() * Marineland Emperor 280 HOB filter with bio-wheel * Marineland Visi-Therm Stealth 100 submersible heater * Estes' Ultra Reef black marine sand (says safe for fresh or salt water) * Couple of fake pieces of wood and plants Nothing too problematic in there. The Emp's filters are proprietary ($), but the bio-wheel is a nice addition to the filtering process. The solid colour of the gravel has some cosmetic issues, which you will have to decide if they matter or not (solid colours show detritus more quickly). Here is a picture of my tank the night I filled it up with water for the first time (the picture was taken before I setup the Emperor filter): http://www.debaser.net/v1.5/images/fish_tank.jpg Very nice. I conditioned the water with Jungle Water Safe Plus and let the tank run for a couple of days. I tested my water with those Jungle 5 in 1 quick dip test strips and it showed the following: pH at 7.8, alkalinity (KH) at 180ppm and hardness (GH) at 150ppm. I set the heater to 76 and had it mounted on a 45 degree angle under the filter near the bottom of the tank. I was having problems with the temperature of the water moving up and down 1-2 degrees so I mounted the heater vertically under the filter to the left a little and the temperature stays right at 76 degrees now. ok, 76F, 7.8pH, 10dkH, 8dgH, left to outgass for a couple of days, sounds good!! I decided I ultimately wanted to have a species tank with tiger barbs so I picked up 3 green tiger barbs to cycle the tank. The fish were loving the tank and having a good time. There was one that was definately leader of the pack and would chase the other two around. I should have been keeping a better eye on them because after about two weeks, two of the barbs had there fins nipped really bad. One was so bad that it's pelvic fins were just these white puffs and his caudal fin was in rough shape too. The other one had his caudal fin nipped but was still in ok shape. During these two weeks, I had been checking my ammonia and nothing seemed to be showing up yet. My water had a cloudy look to it which I believe was from the backteria starting to grow. In fearing for my fish, I decided to get 3 albino tiger barbs to add to the tank, thinking the leader of the pack would have other fish to distract him. Unfortunately, it was too late and the one green tiger barb with the bad pelvic fins died soon after. A couple of days later, the other green tiger barb died. I decided I didn't want my 3 albino's to suffer the same fate so I took out the last green tiger barb out of the 29g tank. Shortly after adding the 3 albino's, I started seeing my ammonia level come up to about .25ppm. Around this same time, one of my albino's got some kind of eye infection. His right eye was really cloudy and enlarged. A couple of days later, he died. After I removed him from the tank, I did my first water change, which was around 20%. This was about 3 weeks after I initially setup the tank. At the same time, I also removed quite a bit of the sand to get it down to about an inch deep since I added too much initially. This probably wasn't a good thing to do as I'm sure it set back my cycling. Probably not too badly. Your problem is cycling and settling in. I bought a Python to do my water changes and was doing a 20% water changes every 3 days after the first water change. The first couple water changes, I was adding the water directly to the tank and then putting in a capful of AquaPlus to remove the chlorine. I felt like I was wasting a ton of water with the Python and didn't really like the idea of adding untreated tap water directly to the tank so I bought a cheap syphon and a 5 gallon bucket to do water changes. I actually like this alot better than the Python. Having used both, there is definitely pros/cons to either system. It's been 6 weeks since I initially setup my tank and it is only showing somewhere between .25 and .50ppm of ammonia and no signs of nitrite. My other levels are still the same (pH 7.8, KH 180ppm and GH at 150ppm). The two remaining albino's seems to be doing fine, tho one does get picked on by the other but I've been keeping an eye on his fins and they are fine. They actually like it when I do water changes and one of them swims right up to the hose as the water comes into the tank. My water still has a faint cloudy look to it. Until your ammonia/nitrite is zero, I wouldn't worry about the cloudiness. You frequent water changes are keeping the ammonia levels low (good), and I really don't think will affect the cycling. I think the presence of ammonia causes the bacteria to reproduce, not the concentration. There are actually situations when growth is negatively affected by concentrations being too high. Should I continuing doing 20% water changes every 3 days until my tank is cycled? I was talking to a guy who seemed knowledgeable at the LFS tonight and he recommended I put some Hagen Cycle in my tank to help speed up the cycling process and that I cut back on water changes to once a week. What do you guys think? Yes (on water changes) and the Hagen Cycle is up to you. It is better than nothing, but a bit slow (in my experience, and assuming they haven't changed the formula in the last 1-1/2 years). Your basic problem is that the tank is cycling very slowly, which drags it out, but if you don't mind then the fish won't either. The water changes keeps everything to safer low concentrations (imho). Also, should I replace the filter in my Emperor? It's been 6 weeks and they say to change these every month. I'm thinking I shouldn't since I don't want to possibly delay my tank cycling even longer. As long as water travels through the filter, I would not mess with it, other than to give it a quick rinse in tank water in a pail. Also, the bio-wheel still seems to be moving pretty fast, no matter which way I turn the spray bar. It doesn't seem to be too discolored yet either. Speaking of spray bar, what position do you guys who have one of these filters put the spray bar and does it really matter? Spray bar orientation is very application specific, either to keep the surface clear of the protein layer which can accumulate, or to direct the water in a circulation pattern to keep the temperature uniform, or to provide or isolate fish which like/dislike water turbulence. Sorry for the long winded post. I just wanted to make sure I included enough info about what has been going on with my tank for the past 6 weeks. Any input would be appreciate. Thanks. Doesn't sound like you are doing too too badly, considering the trouble brand new tanks can cause. Some of your barb problems might have been outside of your control (weak stock) and partially to tank size. I've run Tiger barb species tanks (and they were great), but I'd used a 60g tank. A 30g might be manageable with enough hiding spots, dither, and starting with about 6-8 small Tigers. They are not an easy fish to manage sometimes. -- www.NetMax.tk Rodney |
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slylittlei wrote:
I'm sure you'll get a lot of replies to this one Rodney, but here's my two penn'orth: IMHO you've made the common & understandable error of being a bit too keen to get fish in there - I'd have waited for at least a couple of weeks before introducing any fish at all, to give the tank a chance to cycle. If at all possible it's best to use some water / gravel / filter media from an already established tank when setting up yours (I'm sure others will expand on this theme). Not adding fish to a tank for a couple of weeks is a common myth. Tanks without a source of ammonia (fish) and a source of nitrifying bacteria (often the fishes slimecoat) do not cycle. Seeding from an established tank works great, but any bacteria added on gravel/filter media without an ammonia source will die in a matter of hours to days. You can try to cycle fishless, but judging by what I've read here, it's not as reliable as one would hope. It is good to set up a new tank for a day or two before adding fish to check for leaks, make sure the filter works right, and stabilize the temperature. Once you are sure the equipment works, add any bacteria (from another tank or purchased) and fish at the same time. -- Elaine T __ http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__ rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com |
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On Fri, 16 Dec 2005 14:06:37 -0500, NetMax wrote:
Also, should I replace the filter in my Emperor? It's been 6 weeks and they say to change these every month. I'm thinking I shouldn't since I don't want to possibly delay my tank cycling even longer. As long as water travels through the filter, I would not mess with it, other than to give it a quick rinse in tank water in a pail. But if you've got carbon in there, take it out and toss it. It really isn't needed and will do more ham than good if left in too long. |
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