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I'm considering getting a tank with an overflow, as I don't trust the HOB
overflow box I have. The GF are big enough now, that they can/have knocked the overflow loose. Besides it will give me an excuse to upgrade the tropicals. So I'm wondering about the different overflow options. I've read that the tanks with the built in overflows (floating ball) are less than desired. The LFS seemed rather keen to sell me a ready made overflow solution, rather than drilling a new tank for me. They also said they can only drill the back of the tank and not the bottom. They wanted $300 CDN for a 90 gallon premade overflow solution. I imagine a plain 90 is somewhere around 150 + cost of drilling if I go this route. Then I would still have to buy the overflow, so $300 seems reasonable. I'm not in any real hurry, so I could wait for a used tank. Opinions please. |
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"Bill Stock" wrote in message
... I'm considering getting a tank with an overflow, as I don't trust the HOB overflow box I have. The GF are big enough now, that they can/have knocked the overflow loose. Besides it will give me an excuse to upgrade the tropicals. So I'm wondering about the different overflow options. I've read that the tanks with the built in overflows (floating ball) are less than desired. The LFS seemed rather keen to sell me a ready made overflow solution, rather than drilling a new tank for me. They also said they can only drill the back of the tank and not the bottom. They wanted $300 CDN for a 90 gallon premade overflow solution. I imagine a plain 90 is somewhere around 150 + cost of drilling if I go this route. Then I would still have to buy the overflow, so $300 seems reasonable. I'm not in any real hurry, so I could wait for a used tank. Opinions please. My experience is quite limited, but my preference is back drilled custom tanks. Back-drilled on regular tanks can drop the waterline into your sight-line, whereas custom tanks can be made with the back pane taller, or a deeper plastic trim to hide the waterline. Standpipes (bottom drilled) can be noisy (I heard if you insert a slightly smaller pipe down the centre, you can quieten them). Back-drilled can be noisy but they are easy to quieten down by angling the plumbing. That's all I know. What I haven't seen is a combination. Bottom drill without a standpipe and install a sheet of glass to set the water line. The glass could be set diagonally in a corner, or run the length of the tank (depending on how else you wanted to utilize the space, ie: heating only or matt filters as well). This has the advantage of not being so easy to clog with floating plant matter (hole is at the bottom of the tank), does not utilize any screen which can get clogged, has a large surface area for the water to cascade over (unlike a standpipe), and would probably run very quietly. Most designs will 'eat' fry and floating food. One design I liked took water into a corner tower mostly from bottom grills into an empty chamber (for optional chemical filtration), then through top grills into another chamber (for the heater), until arriving at the 3rd chamber (where the sponge filter was installed, but it could've easily have been a back or bottom drilled overflow. I liked the design because it took the water low and high, not taking too many fry, and had many wide grills which didn't clog too badly (and were easily visible), and the whole thing was just pieces of plastic (cheap to make). Hope there are some ideas in there. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful, but if you google, you'll find several sites which discuss options in more detail, like this one : http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/diysumpsoverflowboxes/ -- www.NetMax.tk |
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